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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More Fratello
Jan 22, 2024

Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More

As you’ve probably noticed over the past three weeks, most members of the Fratello team have shared their 2024 watch resolutions already. But before the month ends, I’d also like to put my watch-related goals for this year down in writing. Can I guarantee that I’ll fulfill them all? No, but since the wheels are […] Visit Brandon’s 2024 New Year’s Watch Resolutions - Getting Off My Butt To Sell Some Watches, Visiting HQ, And More to read the full article.

Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Dec 27, 2023

Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking got hot in 2021, a phenomenon that accelerated into 2022 and continued in 2023. Perhaps because of that, the number of notable, impressive, or truly interesting debuts from independent watchmakers were few. Still, some of the 2023 debuts stood out for us. We rounded up our team’s favourites of the year, which range from Louis Vuitton and Rexhepi Rexhepi to Marco Lang’s open-source construction to an accessibly-priced Habring². Richard Lee Technical Editor The Marco Lang Zweigeischt-1 is an impressively executed three-hand watch with the option of a novel shock-recording complication. However, it was released in 2020. Its inclusion in the 2023 list is because of the open-source technical plans for the entire watch, all of which were made public this year on Mr Lang’s website. Mr Lang’s generosity in sharing his know-how is uncommon and to be applauded. The importance of this initiative can’t be understated. For one, it ensures the longevity of the Zweigeischt-1, since any competent watchmaker will have access to the design and construction, making servicing and repairs easier. Additionally, the accessibility of this information serves as a guidance and inspiration for new watchmakers who are attempting to create their own timepieces. Garnering much attention this year, the Petermann Bedat Reference 2941 was lauded for being an original split-seconds chronograph design with an excellent level of movement finishing. The visible components ar...

Best of 2023: Complications SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle but Dec 26, 2023

Best of 2023: Complications

Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists Dec 18, 2023

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists

The shortlist of five finalists has just been announced for the first ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award that seeks to recognise and reward notable independent watchmakers. Selected from the 20 semi-finalists by the award’s committee of experts, a line-up of over 40 notables that included Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, author Nick Foulkes, Kari Voutilainen, and collector Mike Shanlikian, the five finalist watches and their makers will be judged by a jury of five who will ultimately decide the winner at a meeting on February 6, 2024. The five finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Raúl Pagès L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Reference 2941 – Petermann Bédat Chronometre Artisans – Simon Brette And the winner will be selected from these five by the jury of Carole Forstier Kasapi, head of movement development at TAG Heuer; collector and author Auro Montanari; retailer Michael Tay of The Hour Glass; watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi; and our founder Jiaxian Su. These five members were voted into their role by the committee of experts for this role. The eventual winner will receive a year-long mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps in order to further develop his creations, as well as a prize of €150,000. More about the finalists All five of these pieces are deserving of recognition and only go to highlight the vibrant market for independent creations we currently have. One of the...

[VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Without Dec 15, 2023

[VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko

Without a doubt, something that binds the Worn & Wound editorial team together is a love and appreciation for Grand Seiko. Zach Weiss, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan are all genuine fans of the brand, and have owned virtually every category of modern Grand Seiko over the years. From the gorgeous Zaratsu polishing to the true ingenuity of their in-house movements and unique textured dials, there’s no shortage of pathways to finding a way to love Grand Seiko.  In this video, Zach W., Kat, and Zach K. discuss how they first encountered the brand and why they continue to appreciate these watches. They also talk about their own Grand Seiko collections, watches they currently own and have owned in the past, and show you exactly what they enjoy about them. This is a conversation about the Grand Seiko ownership experience as much as it is about the experience of collecting.  Also in this video, Zach Weiss tells us about his recent trip to Japan to see Grand Seiko’s manufacturing facilities up close, and shows us the watch he picked up as a keepsake that can only be found for sale in the brand’s home country. The post [VIDEO] Round Table: Why We Collect Grand Seiko appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing – The Wildly Reflective Surfaces of the Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror Monochrome
Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror Camouflage Dec 13, 2023

Introducing – The Wildly Reflective Surfaces of the Zenith Defy Extreme Mirror

Camouflage dials have been a big hit in the past couple of years, and we’ve covered several combat-ready models. Zenith pushes the camouflage concept to the extreme, giving its Defy Extreme a radical makeover with a reflective mirrored surface. Undoubtedly the boldest take on its high-performance 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph, the latest manifestation blends into its surroundings […]

Seiko Looks to the Early 1970s for their Latest Speedtimer Release Worn & Wound
Seiko Looks Nov 27, 2023

Seiko Looks to the Early 1970s for their Latest Speedtimer Release

When we last checked in on Seiko’s Speedtimer line, we saw it in an unusual execution that made us think (fondly, for the most part) of funky watches from the 80s and 90s. Like their dive watches, Seiko’s chronographs have run the gamut over the years from the straight laced and traditional to the truly absurd, but unlike the brand’s dive watches, the chronos have never truly become ubiquitous. Nevertheless, there have been some wonderful chronograph designs from Seiko over the years, and a new release looks to a classic from the 1970s as inspiration. This one is just slightly more traditional than the reference linked above.  The SRQ047 is a three register chronograph with a tried and true “panda” dial execution. The white main dial here is a gentle cream color with a subtle vertical brushing, and blue-gray subdials each have raised outer rings on their perimeters, providing depth to the dial as a whole. The orange tipped chronograph second hand and panda layout are both callbacks to specific features from the vintage Speedtimer from 1972 that served as design inspiration.  The case is 42mm in stainless steel, and measures 14.6mm thick. It borrows its case lines as well as the unusual bracelet design from the original 1972 Speedtimer. The watch runs on the 8R48 automatic chronograph movement, which features both a column wheel and vertical clutch. It has 45 hours of power reserve with a minutes-hours-running seconds configuration at the 9, 6, and 3 positions. ...

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” Nov 19, 2023

The Wonderfully Artistic in Christie’s Hong Kong

Having explored the best of independent watchmaking, we now pivot to the artisanal masterpieces at Christie’s Hong Kong sale on November 26, ranging from a 1950s cloisonné Omega by Nelly Richard to a Patek Philippe Dome Clock. Amongst the more esoteric is the Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”, the quartet of timepieces each featuring a miniature sculpture replicating tribal masks in Geneva’s Barbier-Mueller Museum.  The auction on November 26 is made up of two parts, starting with Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) at 1 pm  – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the OAK Collection (lots 2501-2639) at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lots 2224-2227: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” set One of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive Metiers d’Art creations, “Les Masques” is a literal description of the watches – each contains a miniature sculpture that deftly reproduces tribal masks from around the world that are part of the primitive art collection in the renowned Barbier-Mueller Museum. Each of the three years from 2007 to 2009 saw the launch of a “Les Masques” set made up of four watches, with each watch representing one of the four continents of Asia, Oceania, Africa, and the Americas. This present set is from 2009 and depicts masks from Gabon, Mexico, Indonesia, and China.  The masks were micro-sculptures of 18k gold that were intricately engraved and coloured by hand, and then...

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range Worn & Wound
Seiko Has Announced Nov 16, 2023

Seiko Has Announced a New Marinemaster based on the Original 62MAS, the High End of their Prospex Dive Range

While it’s true that it’s certainly Dubai Watch Week as I sit here and write, an argument could be made that we’re in the midst of an unofficial Seiko Week as well. Recent new product announcements run the gamut from the affordable and fun to the ultra niche collector focused limited edition. Today’s announcement might be the one that ultimately gets enthusiasts most excited, however. After some teasing through social media earlier in the week, Seiko has unveiled the new generation Seiko Prospex Marinemaster, officially dubbed the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation. This is technically a product line that has been available for a while in the Japanese domestic market, but Seiko is pointing out with this launch that the Prospex Marinemaster is now global, and represents the top tier of Seiko dive watches worldwide.  The broad strokes here will of course be familiar to anyone who has strapped a Seiko diver to their wrist over the years. The format here is based on the original Seiko dive watch, the 62MAS from 1965, a watch that Seiko has returned to over and over again for inspiration through the years. Particularly in recent years, a crop of divers in the “SPB14X” range (which we’ve covered extensively) have become mainstays in enthusiast watch culture by presenting themselves as affordable dive watches in the spirit of the 62MAS without being direct recreations (but if it’s a recreation you want, Seiko has you covered). The ...

Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal New Green Chronomaster Sport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal Oct 31, 2023

Zenith & Aaron Rodgers Reveal New Green Chronomaster Sport Chronograph

Last year, Zenith announced a partnership with football player Aaron Rodgers at an event in Green Bay, WI, home of the Packers. That season would be Rodgers’ 18th and final year with the team. Zenith would stick by Rodgers through his move to the New York Jets (coincidentally, the team we saw the Packers lose to during the announcement event, which you can read about right here) and a subsequent week 1 injury that would sideline the decorated QB for much of the season (just ho long remains to be seen). We had the opportunity to once again speak with Rodgers and Zenith CEO Julien Tornare this week in New York to see the first horological collaboration between the two: a green on green Chronomaster Sport.  The watch uses the hugely popular 41mm Chronomaster Sport platform that we’ve seen rendered in a variety of materials and colorways, though it’s presented here in a manner we’ve never quite seen before. The ceramic bezel is a deep green with the dial following suit, creating a uniform appearance that places gray toned sub dials at the center, changing the relationship between the two. Historically, the trio of overlapping, and oftentimes tri-color sub dials serve as the focal point of the design, and are instantly recognizable as a Zenith hallmark. Here, the sub dials each get a slightly different gray tone, but very much take a back seat to the color surrounding them. The green isn’t the only thing immediately different about this limited edition, however. The ...

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party Worn & Wound
Zodiac x Worn & Wound Oct 4, 2023

So Many Lasers, So Much Tagging-Recapping the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag LE Launch Party

Last Thursday, despite the torrential downpour, a hearty group of brave souls answered the call and entered the arena to celebrate the release of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. This launch was the follow-up entrant to the original Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Limited Edition, affectionately referred to as the “Saved by the Bell” watch. This night also invoked some serious 90s nostalgia by taking over Area 53 in DUMBO, Brooklyn and flooding the venue with blacklight and filling it with watch enthusiasts ready to wage a series of laser tagging wars.  While guests awaited their time on the battlefield, they were presented a plethora of activities to interact with. From air hockey to arcade games, from foosball to classic birthday party sheet cakes-there was a full complement of to-dos. At the center of all the action were each of the Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Limited Editions. Inspired by the sights, sensations, and joy of playing laser tag, they are watches that were imagined in three states of illumination-in light, in blacklight, and in the dark, each creating a different visual experience. Over two years in the making, the watches feature photoreactive elements on the dial, bezel, strap, and even the case and packaging. The Limited Editions come in two team colors: Team Ultraviolet vs. Team Infrared. Our spirits partner, Superbird, took this to heart coming with two team-themed cocktails. The firs...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Richard Mille Sep 30, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition

Unveiled during the Monaco Grand Prix this year, Rebellion launched two limited edition RE-Volt pieces in partnership with the Alfa Romeo F1 team, and we’ve be able to go hands on with the Valtteri Bottas model! What We Love The layered coloured carbon caseSkeletonised dialThe actual pieces of the F1 car in the watch! What We Don’t Lack of water resistanceVelcro strap not as premium or comfortableMinimal power reserve Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 As a fan of F1, it’s not everyday you get to go hands on and review a watch that the drivers wear. Let’s face it, many of the F1 teams have some very high end timing partners, like Richard Mille with Ferrari and Maclaren, whilst others like TAG Heuer and IWC are more mass luxury, some of the pieces the drivers sport are not, like the Lake Tahoe Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lewis Hamilton has been seen with this year! So when Hardy Brothers, who are the official retailer for Rebellion in Australia, called and said they’ve one of the limited edition Valtteri Bottas C43 RE-Volt pieces available, let’s just say I was keen to get it on my wrist! The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition to 50 Pieces Initial Thoughts Seeing this piece in person, you can’t help get some very strong Richard Mille and Hublot vibes from it. Partly due to the case designed in the Tonneau shape that is now synonymous with RM, and perhaps elements of the design an...

Farer Debuts a New Chronograph Collection, the Chrono-Contempo Worn & Wound
Farer Debuts Sep 21, 2023

Farer Debuts a New Chronograph Collection, the Chrono-Contempo

Each new release from Farer seems to be made to combat the stereotype that British design is dull or humdrum. And with each reference comes an innate understanding of color combinations, setting it apart from similar brands in the market. Their latest collection, the Chrono-Contempo line, might just be the best yet from Farer to showcase the brand’s talents in action. The Chrono-Contempo collection, released today, has taken inspiration from Farer’s own backyard. The colorways in this collection are the aptly named Chalcot and Portobello, two nods to historic parts of London. Each with its own unique take on contemporary design, the two blend beautifully to create a broader landscape of Farer’s unique eye for color, encompassing vibrant orange, subtle navy, and a shock of mint green. Chalcot, named for the Square right next door to Farer’s HQ, balances big personality in a wearable design. Inspired by the “Big Eye” chronograph (named for the minute counter being larger than the other subdials), there’s a lot happening on the dial, without ever feeling overwhelming. This is due, in part, to the subtle way in which two of the subdials blend into the mint green backdrop, while the 3 o’clock subdial stands out in white. Further accented by a navy ceramic bezel and orange hands, this watch does Chalcot Square’s characteristic style justice. Second, there is Portobello. This stretch of London is a bustling, creative, and metropolitan hub and the watch mirrors t...

Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup Worn & Wound
Oris Sep 4, 2023

Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup

Worn & Wound is partnering with Oris for an Airstream event on the latest stop of its journey across the United States. Join us as we take over the nation’s capital for food, drinks, watches, and fun. You’ll have the opportunity to discover and shop the latest Oris novelties, take a selfie with Oris Bear, meet VJ Geronimo, Oris CEO – The Americas, and connect with the Worn & Wound team. Best of all, attendees will also receive a complimentary gift. You’ll have the chance to go hands-on with all kinds of watches from the Oris collection, including some very unique recent releases, such as the brand new Hank Aaron Limited Edition. Special gifts will also be included with any and all purchases. You won’t want to miss this! Sunday, September 10, 2023 2 PM – 6 PM Eastern Hook Hall 3400 Georgia Ave. NW Washington, DC 20010 Click here to RSVP and let us know you plan to attend. Be sure to pass the invite along to your friends! The post Join Oris and Worn & Wound for a Washington D.C. Airstream Meetup appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Worn & Wound
Shinola Aug 31, 2023

[VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design

Join us in celebrating a major milestone in design and American manufacturing-10 years of Shinola Detroit. To commemorate this landmark year, Shinola has created a new video that presents the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This anthemic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Click here to experience Timeless American Design by Shinola.  Don’t forget to check out a specially curated selection of Shinola’s watches and fine goods at Windup Watch Fair NYC on October 20-22 at The Altman Building, located at 135 W 18th St, New York, NY. The post [VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing Worn & Wound+, a Free Slack Community for Our Readers Worn & Wound
Seiko divers you will find Aug 23, 2023

Introducing Worn & Wound+, a Free Slack Community for Our Readers

As Worn & Wound continues to grow, we are committed to fostering new opportunities for our readers to Experience Enthusiasm. With this in mind, we created Worn & Wound+, a free online Slack community for like-minded enthusiasts to connect and discuss watches & gear, sell goods, and more. Benefits include early access to content, events, and new releases, monthly live streams, direct access to Worn & Wound team members, and special promotions from the Windup Watch Shop. In addition to the above, our community welcomes your feedback and suggestions, with a dedicated channel for members to make their voices heard. Aside from sharing daily wrist shots and behind-the-scenes looks at what’s happening in the office, our editors are here to engage with the community, not only on new releases and general watch talk, but about other hobbies we’re passionate about.   Worn & Wound+ represents our commitment to the community as we strive to build a better environment for enthusiasts of all stripes. Whether you’re into LED quartz watches from the ‘80s, modern indies, or have a penchant for Seiko divers, you will find a welcome environment to share your experiences and your enthusiasm. Members also have access to Drops From The Vault, a series of sales for a selection of the most sought-after Windup Watch Shop limited editions from the past, in practically new condition. The next drop is happening soon. Join now, for free, so you don’t miss out by clicking here. The post Intro...

Glasgow’s Paulin Returns with the Modul, Available in Quartz and Mechanical Versions Worn & Wound
Casio nal collaborators Aug 21, 2023

Glasgow’s Paulin Returns with the Modul, Available in Quartz and Mechanical Versions

For watch enthusiasts, some big news out of Scotland this month: Paulin Watches, the Glasgow based brand that this year marks a decade in business, has been acquired by anOrdain, fellow Glaswegians and occasional collaborators. This, quite obviously, begins a new chapter for Paulin, a brand that has long been a favorite of ours here at Worn & Wound for their quirky and contemporary designs. The reboot happens under the watch of Imogen Ayers, a founding member of the anOrdain team, and Paulin’s Creative Director. Right out of the gate, they’ve introduced a new watch that signals a new direction, offering some hints about where the brand is heading.  The new watch, dubbed the Paulin Modul, is so named because it was inspired by the very concept of modular design. The Paulin team, having sourced a variety of unused vintage movements and not being certain of what types of calibers they’d have access to in the future, wanted to create a watch that could accommodate those different movements. This is a fairly radical idea, as anyone who has lamented slightly changed (usually increased) case dimensions following a movement “upgrade” in a product line can attest. For the Modul, the movement, dial, and hands are placed within a watertight, steel inner case, which is then attached to a steel outer case via a pair of screws on both sides. The cushion shaped case measures 35mm in diameter and is just 8.2mm tall.   To drive the modular point home, the Modul is available wi...