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Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter SJX Watches
Panerai Jan 20, 2021

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter

In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...

De Bethune Introduces the Double-Faced DB28 Tourbillon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was patented Jan 20, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the Double-Faced DB28 Tourbillon

Highly regarded for its original and inventive watches that blend high tech and classical, De Bethune’s latest personifies the brand’s twin personalities – literally. Based on its signature DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is De Bethune’s innovative take on the reversible watch. The trademark “floating” lugs of the DB28 have been reengineered to incorporate a compact pivot for the case, allowing it to swivel in either direction, creating a sleek, symmetrical double-sided watch unlike any other. Initial thoughts While the brand got its start with traditional, Breguet-inspired watches, its raison d’etre quickly evolved into pushing the boundaries of watchmaking – both technically and visually – typified by the Kind of Two Tourbillon. Reversible watches aren’t novel, having been around since the 1930s – the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was patented in 1931, and the most expensive watch ever is also double-faced – and are often classically styled. Most notably, Bovet has a diverse offering of highly-complicated, double-faced watches, but all executed in the Baroque style its favours. In contrast, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is clearly contemporary – and one of its face is definitely sci-fi – illustrating the technical prowess of De Bethune while expressing its avant-garde house style. The sci-fi face But because it is essentially a variant of the DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon will be actually wearable despite its mechanical complexity and ...

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 Time+Tide
Bulgari releases Jan 20, 2021

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020

Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter … ContinuedThe post My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Jan 19, 2021

2021 Oris Carl Brashear Cal.401 Limited Edition Review

Pros: Beautiful Bronze that will Patina over timeLatest calibre 401 with small seconds at 6’oclock and 5-day power reserveBeautiful blue dial and dial layout Cons: Some may find it pricyBlue woven elastic strap should have been an additional strapNo open case back to showcase the calibre 401 Overall Rating: 7.5 Value for money – 7.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 7.5/10Build Quality – 7.5/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Oris has come back to once again honour one of the most influential and inspirational figures of the 20th century, Carl Brashear. Keeping in the theme of Oris’s Carl Brashear limited edition watches of the past, this latest timepiece follows the same colour palette and similar design cues, with now being given the brand’s latest and greatest movement. The Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 limited edition is a special piece, and we at WatchAdvice were certainly happy to be one of the first to be able to review it!  Oris Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition However, before we get into the watch, it wouldn’t do it justice without knowing who Carl Brashear was and why he was so iconic in the diving world. Born in 1931, Carl Brashear was enlisted in the U.S Navy in 1948, just after the Navy was desegregated by the U.S President Harry S. Truman. Carl Brashear faced many hardships and hostility during his career, especially racism while attending diving school in Bayonne, New Jersey. Brashear’s first emplo...

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline Time+Tide
Patek Philippe can take six or Jan 19, 2021

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline

When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury … ContinuedThe post Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh!: A Ferocious T-Rex With A Flying Tourbillon For Your Pocket Quill & Pad
Hermes Jan 18, 2021

Hermès Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh!: A Ferocious T-Rex With A Flying Tourbillon For Your Pocket

The cover of the Hermès Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! pocket watch is like looking through a keyhole in a door opening into a 'Jurassic Park' movie. The ferocious dinosaur on the cover of this artful, limited edition pocket watch is fairly lifelike, both in the way it is portrayed and because it is made of leather. And the watch features a flying tourbillon and minute repeater!

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 Time+Tide
Citizen filling Jan 18, 2021

Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824

The watch landscape has changed massively over the last 20 years with an increased trend towards in-house calibers. No longer is ETA the only outlet for brands to source movements with Sellita effectively cloning ETA ebauches and Japanese providers such as Seiko, Miyota, and Citizen filling the void for even more cost-effective solutions. That being … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: From Tudor to Doxa, 7 watches powered by the ETA 2824 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary Jan 18, 2021

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary

Announced quietly late last year and already in stores, the Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary (ref. WGTA0057) is a limited edition to mark the centenary of the jeweller’s formal watch for men. A handsome watch that faithfully replicates nearly all elements of the vintage original, the anniversary edition is distinct from the 2018 Tank Cintrée in both case and movement. In fact, the anniversary model is actually a revival of the 2005 Tank Cintrée. The elegance and refinement, however, comes at an unusually high price. A variety of modern-day Tank Cintrée iterations Initial thoughts The Tank Cintrée is a formal watch, with all the elegance and simplicity that dictates, while being a form watch, instead of a plain, round shape that most dress watches are. That’s the singular talent of the Tank Cintrée, explaining why it remains appealing after a century. Practically a one-to-one remake of the 1920s Tank Cintrée, the anniversary edition – like most other vintage remakes – scores high on beauty since the original was attractive, but low on imagination and novelty. And more notably, the anniversary edition is a revival of the a more recent watch, the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold of 2005 – both have the same case and movement. Perfectly executed as a remake, the anniversary edition reproduces the look of a vintage original well in all aspects. But the anniversary edition approximates how a 1920s example would look today, after a century of ageing, rather ...

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special SJX Watches
Blancpain has made it Jan 15, 2021

Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special

Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02 SJX Watches
Ming Jan 14, 2021

Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02

An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano: A Tantalizing Two-Time Zone Teaser Of What’s To Come Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano Jan 13, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano: A Tantalizing Two-Time Zone Teaser Of What’s To Come

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano combines the best with the best from 90 years' worth of Reverso variations, offering a pure, classic style that makes this watch both a statement and an understatement, the two faces doubling the impact. And as Martin Green explains, it's just a teaser of what's to come is 2021 as Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 90th anniversary of the iconic model.

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now Time+Tide
Jan 13, 2021

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re likely to sit somewhere on the scale of watch addiction. From unrelenting curiosity to full-blown collecting mania, you should know that you aren’t alone in your unquenchable thirst for that next addition to the collection. And what better way to start the year than by getting a … ContinuedThe post 5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again SJX Watches
Hautlence Debuts Jan 13, 2021

Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again

Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...

Collector Jack Wong has accidentally discovered one of Rolex’s hidden secrets… Time+Tide
Rolex s hidden secrets… Most Jan 13, 2021

Collector Jack Wong has accidentally discovered one of Rolex’s hidden secrets…

Most owners of a platinum Rolex would be fearful of tampering with such an insanely valuable watch. One false move, after all, could eventuate in scratching away thousands of dollars of value from that frightfully expensive platinum Oyster bracelet. But Jack Wong is not most owners. The Singapore-based collector – whose stunning array of watches … ContinuedThe post Collector Jack Wong has accidentally discovered one of Rolex’s hidden secrets… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref 6301P-001 Jan 12, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001

Patek Philippe closed 2020 in a big way with the launch of the Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 in November. The most complicated wristwatch unveiled by the Geneva watchmaker in recent years, the Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon. With last year’s Geneva watch fair cancelled, the brand unveiled its new releases one by one throughout the year, starting with the limited-edition Calatrava ref. 6007A in June, allowing each new model to be in stores as soon as it was announced. The Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 was no different, albeit on a tiny scale, with reputedly only a handful available in each region – all sold before the launch. Initial thoughts An impressively large watch, the ref. 6301P feels like a modern-day grand complication. The size is a consequence of the wide and complex movement, so the watch has good proportions all things considered. But the styling is classical, incorporating many elements from vintage Patek Philippe watches – and also the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – which gives it an elegant appearance, something helped by the relative thinness of the case. Still, it is clearly a contemporary watch – Patek Philippe rarely does exact remakes of vintage watches – with details that mark it out as such, including the recessed case band and the luminous hands. The fact that the watch is contemporary is evident in the movement, which looks and functions like a modern calibre, reflecting Patek Philippe’s measured,...

INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like? Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Jan 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like?

H. Moser & Cie. is a watch brand and manufacturer known for having fun and exploring a wide spectrum of colours and materials to fabricate their creations. But now they are taking a moment to get serious through a gorgeous green duo of timepieces. The new H. Moser & Cie. Cure ALS Pioneer Collection is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Moser’s new green dial combines impossible beauty with heart-warming altruism. What’s not to like? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance SJX Watches
Jan 8, 2021

Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance

After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...

What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers? Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really Jan 8, 2021

What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers?

Earlier this week, aptly on a #speedytuesday in Switzerland, Omega has released a new generation of Omega Speedmaster watches. The upgrade has been long-awaited with the previous references largely unchanged for the past 50 years. The Omega Speedmaster 3861 models announced  introduce master chronometer co-axial technology to the professional moon watch – with subtle changes … ContinuedThe post What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.