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Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces May 2, 2024

Glashütte Original Introduces the PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute”

A tribute to the German city of Dresden, the PanoMaticInverse Limited Edition depicts the city where the predecessor of Glashütte Original was founded in 1845. It retains the inverted movement construction that characterises the model, displaying the escapement on the dial, but here the three-quarter plate on the front sports a hand-engraved rendering of Dresden landmarks, the Frauenkirche and Academy of Fine Arts, while the bridges on the reverse are engraved with the Elbe promenade. Initial thoughts Although the brand itself was founded after the fall of the Berlin Wall, Glashütte Original (GO) has its roots in the very beginning of watchmaking in the Glashütte area. Because the brand was formed from the East German state-owned watchmaking enterprise, it was vertically integrated from the beginning, making it a true manufacture. It is somewhat under-appreciated compared to its neighbour, A. Lange & Söhne, although the two brands focus on different segments of the market, with Glashütte Original offering more affordable timepieces. The brand’s steel watches, for example, usually retail for under US$15,000. However, GO is capable of German haute horologerie, as demonstrated by its top-of-the-line timepieces like the Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. The PanoMaticInverse “Dresden Tribute” is one of the brand’s high-end offerings, with a retail price of US$47,400. Even though that’s a big number, the watch delivers substantial tangible quality. In addition to th...

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup Worn & Wound
May 1, 2024

San Francisco Here We Come! The Windup 2024 SF Activities Roundup

If you’re reading this article, there’s a good chance you’ve been to one of our Windup Watch Fairs in San Francisco, Chicago, or New York City. In the nine years we’ve brought together enthusiasts and brands across the country, it’s been incredible to hear the different stories of how people have come to Worn & Wound and all the reasons they’ve stayed. If you’re a long-time-reader-none-time-attendee lamenting, “I’ve never been to a fair like this before…” – trust us, neither have we. 2024 is going to be a brand new year for the Windup Watch Fair. With over 30 first-time watch and EDC brands as well as many familiar favorites, everyone is in for a treat as we descend on the Fort Mason Gateway Pavilion later this week for the Windup Watch Fair. Maybe it’s our refreshed mission for the year, to include even more enthusiasts under the Worn & Wound umbrella, catalyzing the new EDC Expo with Carryology. Maybe it’s the new venue, the historic (literally) building in the arts and cultural hub along the San Francisco Bay. Maybe it’s the over 90 watches and gear brands coming this year. Ok, a big part of it is the brands. All of these different pieces make this year an all-together new Windup for everyone. If you’re in the Bay Area this weekend, we have two words for you: get here! Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94123 Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open ...

Introducing the Baily, Farer’s New Moonphase with a Natural Aventurine Dial Worn & Wound
Farer s New Moonphase May 1, 2024

Introducing the Baily, Farer’s New Moonphase with a Natural Aventurine Dial

U.K. based Farer is a brand that marches to the beat of their own drum, or perhaps in horological terms, the beat of their own movements. From their case shapes, use of color, bronze crowns, and their wonderful lume applications, being different is at the heart of their charm. So why would their take on an aventurine dial be like all the others? This new special edition of their Moonphase collection is called the Baily and it is made from natural aventurine. While most aventurine dials are simply glass flecked with copper filings, these are natural semi-precious gemstones that have been painstakingly cut and polished into a dial that is just 1mm thick. The finished product has a distinctive speckle-patterned look and a smooth glossy surface unique to each watch. Further enhancing the Baily line, the moonphase discs are carefully hand painted in Switzerland and finished with yellow moons made from hand applied, textured Super-LumiNova, which mimics the lunar surface. No Farer would be complete without their signature touch of lume. Each Baily features applied Lumicast markers made from a blend of ceramic and Grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. These are paired with polished lance style hands and a second hand with a white Farer “A” at its tip. Powering this piece is the hand-wound Sellita SW288-1 in Elaboré grade, which can be seen through the display caseback. It even has a date wheel that is color matched to the larger moonphase wheel, which is a slightly darker shade of gre...

TAG Heuer Evokes 1980s Nostalgia with the Formula 1 Kith SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Evokes 1980s Nostalgia May 1, 2024

TAG Heuer Evokes 1980s Nostalgia with the Formula 1 Kith

Originally introduced in 1986, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 was an affordable and cheerful sports watch recognisable to anyone who grew up in the 1980s and 1990s. Now TAG Heuer has just unveiled the Formula 1 Kith Limited Edition, a faithful remake of the original Series 1 model, created in tandem with streetwear label Kith. Offered in ten colourful variants, the new Formula 1 is branded “Kith Heuer” in a nod to the collaboration, with the fashion label’s emblem replacing the customary “TAG” in the watchmaker’s shield logo. Initial thoughts Historically a brand that was an entry point into luxury sports watches, TAG Heuer has now gone a bit more upmarket. Its re-issues of vintage Heuer chronographs, for instance, are located in a pricier segment. Buyers looking for something more affordable have the Aquaracer or modern-day Formula 1. Now they have another option: the original Formula 1 built to current levels of quality. Kith’s motto, “Just Us,” sits just above six The modern-day Formula 1 has evolved enough it no longer resembles the original, so the Formula 1 Kith will be appealing to someone who wants to indulge in some nostalgia. The remake is virtually identical to the 1980s Series 1 model – even the plastic for the case and bezel are made by the same supplier – but with updated specs for additional robustness. At CHF1,500, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith is a good value proposition and in keeping with the accessible spirit of the original. The first TAG...

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only May 1, 2024

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”

Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko as Apr 30, 2024

Credor Celebrates their 50th Anniversary with a New Limited Edition Eichi II in Yellow Gold

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, the Japanese brand that is the highest end arm of the Seiko family. In recent years, Credor has taken something of a backseat to Grand Seiko, as the latter brand has grown in stature, with rising price points as well as the introduction of an honest to goodness Super Watch in the form of the Kodo. But a new release from Credor to celebrate their big anniversary serves as a reminder of why the brand is unique and important within the larger world of Seiko, and Japanese watchmaking in general. The Eichi II is Credor’s signature watch, highlighting everything the brand is most adept at. It features a porcelain dial made by a single artisan, and the complexity of its manufacture and strict tolerances for quality accepted by Credor apparently result in an exceptionally high failure rate. The result, however, is an uncommonly beautiful canvas for the hand painted markers that are this watch’s calling card. For this anniversary edition of the Eichi II, Credor has crafted a dial in dark blue, and the markers have been hand painted in gold. Upping the ante somewhat for this release, the Credor logo at 12:00 has also been hand painted, a first for an Eichi II. This is also the first time a yellow gold case has been made for an Eichi II.  Of course, another major draw of the highest end Credors is the immaculately finished movements made in the famed Micro Artist Studio. The Eichi II runs on the 7R14, a Spring Drive movement with a...

Hands-on – The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Orbis Apr 30, 2024

Hands-on – The Perpetual Motions of the Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon

Modern watches made by Roger Dubuis are the antithesis of understatement and always manage to deliver a compelling mix of traditional horological content with a dash of extravagant, expressive design. This year’s releases focused on the flying tourbillon, culminating in the Orbis in Machina model with its rare, centrally mounted regulator (only a few can […]

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 WatchAdvice
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 After Apr 30, 2024

OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...

Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO Greubel Apr 30, 2024

Business News: Greubel Forsey Gets New CEO

Greubel Forsey has just announced a change of leadership, with Michel Nydegger assuming the role of chief executive officer. Interestingly, the current chief executive officer, Antonio Calce, will then become a vice president starting August 2024. Mr Nydegger joined the brand eight years ago and rose to his present role of head of marketing and communications in 2021, shortly after Mr Calce took over. Mr Nydegger was part of the team that supercharged Greubel Forsey’s revenue and profitability, and embarked on an expansion of its “inclined” manufacture, thanks in part to a bestselling line of sports watches introduced by Mr Calce. According to the company, despite the management changes, “Greubel Forsey will remain independent, with Robert Greubel, Stephen Forsey, and Antonio Calce continuing as shareholders.” The significance of this leadership transition at Greubel Forsey is not yet publicly known, although there has been talk that the brand is seeking new investors. The company’s ownership structure was simplified in 2022 when Richemont sold its 20% stake to Messrs Greubel, Forsey, and Calce. One rumoured scenario is that a consortium led by a well-known industry personality is taking over Greubel Forsey, something that may be announced in fall 2024.  

Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
Breguet numerals Apr 29, 2024

Eberhard & Co. Debut Two New Chronographs at their First Watches & Wonders

Earlier this month at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Eberhard & Co. unveiled two new chronographs, expanding its 1887 line-up, first developed in 2019. The Swiss brand unveiled both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique. These timepieces represent a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the brand’s founding date and its rich heritage that has made it a staple on the Swiss market for over 130 years. According to the Maison, the development process of these chronographs was meticulous, involving extensive research and study of original Eberhard & Co. chronographs dating back to the 1930s. Preserved at the Eberhard & Co. Museum in La Chaux-de-Fonds, these timepieces served as the primary source of inspiration for the design and technical aspects of the new releases. Both the Chronographe 1887 Édition Limitée and the Chronographe 1887 Automatique are powered by exclusive calibers developed in collaboration with Manufacture AMT. The movements (EB 280 and EB 380, respectively) feature a column wheel and the fly-back complication, a nod to the precision timing required in aviation during the 1930s. The EB 280 in the Limitée is manually wound, while the EB 380 in the Automatique is, as the name of the watch implies, self-winding. The primary aesthetic difference between the two references is the use of baton style hour markers on the Limtée and Breguet numerals on the Automatique. Each is available with white or black dials...

Introducing – The New 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition for Phillips by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès Monochrome
Massena Lab Apr 29, 2024

Introducing – The New 1952 Observatory Dial Limited Edition for Phillips by Massena LAB and Raúl Pagès

Not only are the watches crafted in collaboration with William Massena and his Massena LAB well executed and exciting, but they also serve as invaluable educational tools. They ignite a curiosity to delve deeper into horological history, exploring the lives of notable figures, the evolution of brands, distinctive styles, and the captivating mechanics behind them. […]

Fabled “Lost” Cartier ‘Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Rediscovered SJX Watches
Cartier Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Apr 29, 2024

Fabled “Lost” Cartier ‘Pendule Magnétique’ Water Clock Rediscovered

Although Cartier watches are now enjoying a streak of popularity, thanks in part to social media, the jeweller’s greatest timekeepers are arguably not wristwatches but clocks, namely the lavish and inventive clocks made in the first half of the 20th century that rank amongst the most impressive clocks ever made. Not only were most carefully designed and ornately decorated, many feature unique, “mysterious” time display mechanisms. A quartet of such clocks long hidden in a discreet collection, has just emerged at Phillips and will soon go under the hammer. All four are Chinese-themed Art Deco creations typical of Cartier’s work of the period, and include an example of the famous mystery clock, specially a single-axle version inlaid with turquoise. But the highlight is a long-lost pendule de table magnétique, or magnet clock, sometimes also known as a turtle- or water clock. The most elaborate water clock ever made by Cartier, this example is a large jade bowl containing a carp floating on water that serves as the hour hand. Made in 1929 by Cartier Paris and sold by its New York branch, this water clock was lost for decades and known only from drawings in Cartier’s archives. It finally reemerged at Christie’s in 1990, where it was sold to the current owner. The clock then remained inaccessible in the owner’s collection, although it was mentioned in several Cartier books, including the well-known tomes by Francois Chaille and Franco Cologni, and Hans Nadelhoffe...

Inside Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2024 Booth With Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier Revolution
Cartier s Watches & Wonders Apr 29, 2024

Inside Cartier’s Watches & Wonders 2024 Booth With Cyrille Vigneron, CEO of Cartier

As we wander through the captivating displays at Watches & Wonders 2024, CEO Cyrille Vigneron shares insights into the core values that have propelled Cartier to its prominent position in the watch industry. His commitment to excellence, innovation, and timeless elegance resonates in every exquisite timepiece showcased at the event. With a keen eye for […]

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas Worn & Wound
Apr 28, 2024

Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas

Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. Students everywhere are winding down their year, and the big day is just around the corner. Marking the transition to a new life stage is no small feat, and a graduation gift is a longstanding tradition. Shopping for a budding watch enthusiast is notoriously tricky, but we’ve got some ideas. Whether it’s a quality watch to make a first impression at a new job, or a thoughtful accessory to the young collector, here are a few of our picks from the Shop. From the Windup Team to all new graduates: congratulations and all the best in your future endeavors! As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available via consultation to set up demos and answer any questions you have. The post Last Minute Graduation Gift Ideas appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Christopher Ward through Apr 28, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 79 – Swiss Leftovers

On episode 79 of A Week in Watches, we start with a trip down memory lane, all the way back two weeks ago to Watches & Wonders 2024. Well, not exactly; rather than the fair itself, we look at the other shows and exhibitions, looking at several of the brands we got to check out. From there, we jump over to a new release by an old brand. Or, rather, the relaunch of the brand, Amida, and their most iconic watch, a jump hour with a digital display, the Digitrend. Lastly, we head over to the UK to celebrate a double anniversary with Christopher Ward through the launch of the Twelve X powered by the SH21 movement. Before diving into the week’s news, don’t forget that Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is starting on May 3rd at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason and running until May 5th. It boasts over 85 brands and free admission for all, making it a perfect outing for family and friends to explore the world of watches; visit windupwatchfair.com for details. This episode is sponsored by the Windup Watch Shop. It features the exclusive Depancel x Worn & Wound Allure Valjoux 92 Chronograph collaboration, which showcases restored vintage chronograph movements visible through a display case back. The collaboration is limited to just 20 pieces and is available at windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 79 – Swiss Leftovers appeared first on Worn & Wound.

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! Time+Tide
Nomos has Apr 28, 2024

You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer!

Nomos Glahshütte has let loose with the colour wheel for its latest pieces, celebrating 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte with 31 colourful versions of the Tangente 38. Each colourway is limited to 175 pieces and focuses on one of Nomos Glashütte’s best-selling models. This time, the Tangente 38 is fitted with a hand-wound DUW4101 … ContinuedThe post You want dial colours? Nomos has the answer! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.