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Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces New Entries Feb 27, 2024

Louis Erard Introduces New Entries in their Excellence Petite Seconde Collection Featuring Elaborate Guilloche Dials

The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial. These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast.  The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 posi...

Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe Worn & Wound
Isotope green gilded black Feb 27, 2024

Hands-On: the ARDIO Caribe

ARDIO is an independent U.S. brand based out of Pennsylvania and founded by Ron Oley. The Caribe is the brand’s first watch and is the product of over three years of design effort. ARDIO keeps a fairly quiet online presence, with their main website and an Instagram page being the most accessible sources of information for prospective buyers. According to Oley, each component of the Caribe is designed from scratch and the watches are assembled in small batches. This particular run is capped at 300 pieces per colorway with each watch triple-checked by three separate parties and hand-regulated before shipping. There are five dial colors offered at this time: light blue, gauge brass, isotope green, gilded black, and sunrise orange. I had the opportunity to review the blue and brass options. My first impressions of the watch were very positive. I had initial concerns about how it would wear on my wrist, since it looked sizable in the travel case it came in and felt fairly hefty before trying it on. Case diameters of 40mm can wear a myriad of ways depending on other factors – it seems to be a size where the number on paper doesn’t give the wearer the full picture of the fit. However, the Caribe really feels like it wears true to size due to its well-proportioned lugs and slim bezel. Part of the illusion of its overall dimensions can likely be attributed to its height: a double domed sapphire crystal adds two millimeters to its vertical presence, but also offers a nice effe...

First Look – The New Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché Monochrome
Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché Feb 27, 2024

First Look – The New Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloché

Louis Erard continues its path onwards and upwards with yet another artistic iteration of its Excellence Petite Seconde. A flagship model at Louis Erard since 2020, this model is an attractive dress watch with a small seconds counter available in 39mm and 42mm cases. The uncluttered dial of the Petite Second has been treated to […]

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox” SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox” When Feb 27, 2024

Review: TAG Heuer Carrera Dato “Glassbox”

When TAG Heuer revamped the Carrera in 2023 to create the “Glassbox”, it managed to transform a vintage remake into something more modern. The result was praised by enthusiasts, and arguably expanded the brand’s audience. This year TAG Heuer built on the same concept with the Carrera Dato “Glassbox”, a design inspired by the ref. 3147 of 1968. Featuring an unusual date window at nine, the Dato has a single 30-minute register at three o’clock, giving it an asymmetric layout that still has visual balance. Quirky dial design aside, the Dato is standard Glassbox, right down to the highly domed crystal and in-house TH20 movement. Initial Thoughts I write this as the owner of the Carrera “Glassbox” with a black dial, nicknamed “reverse panda”, which was my first-ever TAG Heuer. I was never really a fan of the brand before but when I saw it, I was impressed by the aesthetics. Most striking was how much the dial stands out when on the wrist due to the relatively short lugs. I ended up pulling the trigger on the Glassbox after a few months of contemplation. The Carrera Glassbox in the “reverse panda” colourway On paper, the Dato is not much different from the original Glassbox, since it has exact same specifications aside from the dial’s colour and layout as well as a minor movement tweak to remove two counters. In reality, however, the aesthetic changes make it an entirely different watch. The Dato is a cleaner design that gives something of a dress-watch...

Introducing – The Redesigned Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton Monochrome
Arnold & Son Feb 27, 2024

Introducing – The Redesigned Arnold & Son Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton

Pulling out all the stops before Watches & Wonders 2024, watchmaker Arnold & Son presents two skeletonised models powered by one of the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon movements, now dubbed Ultrathin Tourbillon Skeleton. While these new models have been treated to some design tweaks and a new tourbillon carriage, these editions of the Ultrathin Flying […]

Fratello On Air: Opportunities For The Watch Industry Fratello
Feb 27, 2024

Fratello On Air: Opportunities For The Watch Industry

In this week’s episode of Fratello On Air, we ponder what’s wrong with the watch industry. Before you jump to conclusions, we’re not upset. We have a wish list and think that certain areas within this sector could use further thoughts or updates. Get ready for a lengthy episode! So, what’s wrong with the watch […] Visit Fratello On Air: Opportunities For The Watch Industry to read the full article.

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable Fratello
Grand Seiko Quartz Value Feb 27, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable

Pre-owned Grand Seiko quartz watches come with Rollie-beating Zaratsu-polished greatness at no extra cost. So, where’s the catch? There is none. I know many of you are still on the fence about even considering quartz for your collection, and I understand you. I was there myself for years until the charm of budget-winning meca-quartz got […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Grand Seiko Quartz Value Is Unbeatable to read the full article.

Tissot Revives the PR516 Chronograph with a Hand-Wind Movement SJX Watches
Tissot Revives Feb 27, 2024

Tissot Revives the PR516 Chronograph with a Hand-Wind Movement

Tissot has enjoyed a streak of appealingly affordable vintage-inspired models ranging from the PRX Digital to the distinctive Sideral. Now, the brand has turned to a sports chronograph from the archives, the PR516 Chronograph. Drawing inspiration from the 1968 model, the PR516 has been given an update with a larger case, sapphire-covered bezel, and a manual-wind Valjoux movement. Initial thoughts  Like the Heuer Carrera and Rolex Daytona, the PR516 Chronograph is a motorsports racing chronograph of the 1960s and 1970s. But unlike its famous, and perhaps iconic, counterparts, the PR516 is hardly known. Despite being under the radar, the original does have a recognisable and appealing 1970s style. That’s been reworked slightly to transform it into the new PR516. The watch isn’t a replica of the original, because it has modern dimensions. In fact, it is chunky and quite thick, dimensions arguably suitable for a modern sports watch. The dial has also been tweaked slightly and now has less text, while the registers are cleaner. For now, the new dial is available only in the same colour as the original, black, though variants are likely if this sells well. With a price tag of US$1,850, the PR516 Chronograph is a value proposition. This is apparent when it’s compared with offerings from micro-brands like as Farer and Excelsior Park, which rely on comparable movements (typically Sellita) but cost a third more. A modern facelift The PR516 is the latest addition to Tissot’s...

The 25 Most Eye-Catching Watch Dial Options On the Market Today Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 26, 2024

The 25 Most Eye-Catching Watch Dial Options On the Market Today

Watch lovers may be settling into a modern Golden Era of watch dial making, with many brands over the past several ramping up the creativity - experimenting with bolder colors, innovative layouts and textures, and even an array of unconventional materials and processes in their dials' production. This is happening from Kickstarter brands all the way to the top of the watch industry food chain - with independent brands as well as those owned by large luxury conglomerates making a concerted effort to offer watch dial options that set their timepieces apart. We've compiled a list - which many will, of course, find far from exhaustive - of some of our favorite watch dials that you can find on current models from an array of brands. Oris Big Crown Pointer Date - Maroon Dial The Big Crown Pointer Date is one of Oris's most well-established signature pieces and it has debuted in some very nontraditional colorways of late, most of which have been very well received. The dial that stands out from our perspective is this maroon version which is rich, warm and luxurious and provides a nice background for the off-white print and lume-treated cathedral hands. Maroon, sometime referred to as burgundy, is a color that has popped up on other brands (like the Rado watch a bit further down the list), and the execution on this Oris watch is among the best we’ve seen; it's also a color that is versatile enough to wear daily.  Specifications: Price: $1750-$1950, Cas...

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Updates their World Timer Feb 26, 2024

Farer Updates their World Timer Collection

Introduced in 2019, Farer’s World Timer series has continued to garner attention for the brand and has become one of their most popular collections to date. Between a nearly pitch-perfect design for the dial and the impressive central rotating 24-hour disc and a bidirectional internal bezel, the wearer has the ability to read 24 time zones simultaneously.  Now, the Britain-based company has released a new iteration of the World Time collection, each with notable enhancements, reintroducing favorites like the Roché and Markham alongside the introduction of the all-new Foxe model in a striking green hue. Those familiar with the collection’s previous design will notice updated hour and minute hands, adopting a sleeker alpha shape to complement the watches’ aesthetics. Moreover, adjustments to the rotating bezel showcase city replacements: Chicago has replaced Mexico City, Beijing has replaced Hong Kong, and lastly, Paris has been replaced by Bienne to mark where the World Timers are produced. Less conspicuous is the update to the World Time’s movement. The collection now houses a customized version of the Sellita SW330-1 movement, specifically tailored to accommodate a rotating 24-hour disc instead of a traditional GMT hand. This modification, along with an upgraded mainspring, extends the power reserve to an impressive 50 hours.  As mentioned, three color options are available for this update. One can choose between Roche, Markham, and Foxe.  The Roché model com...

News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases Monochrome
Omega Raises Over CHF 500k Feb 26, 2024

News – Omega Raises Over CHF 500k for Charity Orbis with 11 MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold Suitcases

Partnering with auctioneer Sotheby’s, Omega has recently offered for sale 11 unprecedented MoonSwatch Moonshine Gold suitcases. Surfing on these vibe of the Moonshine gold watches wasn’t the idea, however. There was a good cause behind these sales, as all of the auction proceeds are to be given to Omega’s long-term partner, Orbis International. And with […]

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector Fratello
Feb 26, 2024

Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector

In this installment of Back To Basics, I’ll go into typical mistakes that beginner watch collectors often make. These are the common pitfalls that newcomers might find themselves running into. After reading this, you, as a new watch enthusiast, will hopefully be able to steer clear of them! And that might just save you some […] Visit Back To Basics: 10 Mistakes To Avoid As A Beginner Watch Collector to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Date Feb 26, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date

In my latest review, I tackle a brand that deserves more appreciation than it currently gets. But does the watch warrant the price tag? Let’s find out What We Love A ‘less is more’ design packed with fantastic detail Thin, wearable and versatile, even at 42mm Comfortable rubber strap What We Don’t The price point isn’t outside of reality, but it’s still steep Significant dead zone on the crown when winding or time-setting Is the double-security clasp really necessary? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 When I initially joined WatchAdvice, I met with Chamath and Matt over breakfast to discuss what the company was all about. From what I remember, an extract of that talk went about as follows: Chamath: It would be awesome if you could write a review! Name a watch brand, and I’ll happily try to secure something for you to review! Me: MB&F;! Chamath: Um… Try again, maybe? To be honest, totally understandable. If I were in Chamath’s position, giving the new guy access to an MB&F; LMP1 Evo from the jump is practically a death sentence – Leaving even the wrong piece of dust on one would probably end with me working for WatchAdvice in eternal ‘indentured servitude.’ So, I had to set my sights on more realistic opportunities. Note: I said more realistic and not lower. Even without access to the extremes of haute horlogerie, I still had a whole host of amazing brands to choose from. After thinking...

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again) SJX Watches
Baume & Mercier Feb 26, 2024

Baume & Mercier Miniature Pierre Soulages Painting on a Watch Dial (Again)

To commemorate the 10th anniversary of the Musée Soulages, Baume & Mercier (B&M;) is launching a second edition inspired by Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The Hampton Polyptyque Edition “Musée Soulages 10th Anniversary” features a dial modelled on Peinture 324 x 362 cm, 1986, Polyptyque I. Inspired by the style of the French abstractionist, the dial reproduces the dense impasto of texture and shapes of the artwork. As with the first edition, it has an all-black case and an overall composition devoid of colour, except for the branding and hands. Initial thoughts While watchmakers often partner with museums, Baume & Mercier’s tie-up with the Musée Soulages’ that started in 2022 yielded the brand’s most compelling watch to date – which is saying a lot for this anaemic brand. The second edition is essentially identical to the first, but with a different artwork on the dial. Though simple, the latest Soulages watch still manages to capture the essence of his work on a tiny canvas.  However, as is always the case with limited editions, the number of editions is inversely proportional to desirability and appeal. While the first edition was special – it reputedly sold out swiftly – the second edition is intrinsically less unique. If there are much more on the horizon then the concept will lose much of its interest. The Hampton “Hommage à Pierre Soulages” edition from 2022 Priced at US$6,900, the new Soulages edition costs US$1,050 more than the first edition...

Hands-On With The Brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT Nighthawk - Can It Get Any Better Than This? Fratello
Feb 25, 2024

Hands-On With The Brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT Nighthawk - Can It Get Any Better Than This?

RZE is a brand that manages to impress me with every release. While not every one of the brand’s models might be right up my alley in terms of looks, there is no denying that RZE offers spectacular value for money. My favorite models from the brand are the Resolute Pro, Endeavor, and Fortitude. In […] Visit Hands-On With The Brilliant RZE Fortitude GMT Nighthawk - Can It Get Any Better Than This? to read the full article.

Tissot’s New Mechanical Chrono & a Timex for the Heartbroken on This Week’s Roundup Worn & Wound
Tissot s New Mechanical Chrono Feb 25, 2024

Tissot’s New Mechanical Chrono & a Timex for the Heartbroken on This Week’s Roundup

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we have some exciting new watches to cover, starting with the Tissot PR516 mechanical chronograph. From there we highlight a humorous Timex Seconde Seconde edition (they’re all funny) and a discreet and slick pocket knife from The James Brand. Finally we round things out with a fantastic ADPT t-shirt that you’ll rock all summer long, as well as a field watch to match: the inimitable WW75. Oh, and stick around at the end for an additional promotion code. This is definitely a Roundup you won’t want to miss.  The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself catego...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57 Fratello
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs Feb 25, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57

Welcome to another edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! With the smell of fresh coffee filling the room, it’s time for a battle of chronographs - the Breitling Chronomat versus the Omega Speedmaster. More specifically, for this week’s battle, Jorg chose the Breitling Chronomat B01 42, and Thomas chose the Omega Speedmaster ’57. The first is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Vs. Omega Speedmaster ’57 to read the full article.

Depth-Testing my Seiko SKX013 Dive Watch: Jumping In at the Deep End Quill & Pad
Seiko SKX013 Dive Watch Jumping Feb 25, 2024

Depth-Testing my Seiko SKX013 Dive Watch: Jumping In at the Deep End

Professional watchmakers have specialist machinery for testing the water resistance of their watches, but Colin Alexander Smith does not. So after servicing his Seiko SKX013 he was on the lookout for an opportunity to take it down deep. And he found the perfect opportunity while summer holiday diving at Aiguablava cove on Spain's Costa Brava. But it didn't go quite to plan and his Seiko came out of the experience a tad better than he did.

The New 34mm Kurono Tokyo Calligra Sold Out In A Flash - Here’s What You Need To Know Fratello
Kurono Tokyo Calligra Sold Out Feb 24, 2024

The New 34mm Kurono Tokyo Calligra Sold Out In A Flash - Here’s What You Need To Know

Hajime Asaoka’s signature style is early mid-century with a touch of Art Deco, and he chose the studied charm of a 34mm case for his premier (and accessible) release of 2024. We first saw this size from Kurono Tokyo in 2022 with four fresh two-tone releases. Now, by introducing the Calligra, Hajime Asaoka has committed. […] Visit The New 34mm Kurono Tokyo Calligra Sold Out In A Flash - Here’s What You Need To Know to read the full article.