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Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Platinum Discovered Apr 21, 2021

Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial

The headline lot at Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, the Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum is one of just five known. Already a million-dollar watch before, the Daytona just got that much more unusual with a fresh discovery: the dial is not a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial as previously believed, but it is actually turquoise mineral stone. According to Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, the discovery came about only recently when light fell on the watch just right, revealing a detail that was not obvious before: the sub-dials are of a slightly different colour and texture. So the dial and movement were removed from the platinum case for inspection. And a close look at the reverse of the dial revealed it to be mineral stone. “What appeared to be a classic ‘Stella’ dial is actually a natural hardstone turquoise dial with a lacquer coating on top,” explains Mr Hines, “The lacquer coating hides the natural grain that can normally be seen in any hardstone.” While a revelation, the mineral stone dial is an eminently logical feature. Only five platinum Daytonas with the Rolex cal. 4030 (based on the Zenith El Primero) were ever produced, reputedly at the behest of the late Patrick Heiniger, then the chief executive of Rolex. It is believed he gifted four examples to important business partners, and kept the final watch for himself. (One watch was gifted to a member of the family that owns a long-established Rolex store in Italy – we told the...

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Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction Time+Tide
Mido Apr 20, 2021

Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction

When Mido makes headlines for an auction result, you know it must be a special watch, and over the weekend a very special watch was sold. What was the watch? Well, it was a piece produced at the request of Ettore Bugatti, the Italian-born French founder of the eponymous automotive manufacturer. This specific watch, dated … ContinuedThe post Vintage Mido owned by Bugatti founder sells for $420,000 at auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Apr 18, 2021

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S

Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....

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Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review Time+Tide
Apr 16, 2021

Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review

When the first Kurono Chronograph was released, I admired its design but felt the white/black colour scheme was an unnecessary addition to my collection. I won’t pretend any watch is a necessity, but in order to splurge on these items that I love, I have to be able to qualify their purchase – even with … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Kurono Chronograph 2 – an owner’s review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Let’s be transparent: Tinted and clear sapphire dials are a trend in 2021 Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

Let’s be transparent: Tinted and clear sapphire dials are a trend in 2021

Sapphire crystal, the once exclusive, high-end material replacing scratch-prone acrylic and normal glass to protect our watch dials, is now widely available,and employed in some of the best dial designs of this year’s Watches and Wonders. But how is pure sapphire crystal actually made? One of the best (succinct) answers to this comes from the … ContinuedThe post Let’s be transparent: Tinted and clear sapphire dials are a trend in 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 Time+Tide
Apr 15, 2021

The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021

Given the disruptive effects of the pandemic upon watch manufacturers, it’s understandable that some are now cagey about taking too many big risks. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, many brands chose to expand on their design languages without pushing things too far and the results are some truly refined watches. But whether it be … ContinuedThe post The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hermès Introduces the H08 Automatic SJX Watches
Hermes Apr 14, 2021

Hermès Introduces the H08 Automatic

Conceived as an everyday watch with a modern aesthetic, the Hermès H08 is the latest mechanical watch for men from the Parisian leather goods maker. As is now the norm for Hermès, the H08 is a proper mechanical watch that’s powered by an automatic calibre made by respected movement maker Vaucher, while also having its own custom typography created specifically for the H08 (just as it was for the Slim d’Hermès wristwatch). Slightly sporty in design, the H08 has a cushion-shaped case that’s available in titanium or an unusual graphene composite. And the titanium version is also available with a matching bracelet that is notably well executed. Initial thoughts I played with the various versions of the watch, and I like it. They are well designed, well made, and importantly, well priced. The case is smartly finished with a variety of contrasting textures, while also having a screw-down crown and 100 m water resistance. And it contains a Vaucher movement, which is an automatic assurance of quality in terms of construction, and finishing is sufficient at the very least. And it’s worth pointing out that the titanium version is also available on a bracelet that is done surprisingly well for a watch of this price. From left: Graphene composite, titanium, and DLC-coated titanium That said, the fact that it comes from Hermès as opposed to an established watchmaker will no doubt be a major hindrance for a watch enthusiast. But I can say with certainty that the H08 is a we...

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A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Apr 14, 2021

A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot

Earlier this year Grand Seiko announced a watch that was an instant hit within collectors’ circles. The new Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 9SA5 Series 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had everything you might expect from a Grand Seiko. It had a well-proportioned 40mm steel case, contained the brand-new 9SA5 automatic hi-beat movement and also featured a … ContinuedThe post A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Black Panther different Apr 13, 2021

ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version?

As a community, we watch lovers can forget there is a larger world beyond our obsession, and that the overwhelming majority of watch buyers are not plugged in, in any way, to our commentary. Not every luxury watch buyer, even of popular models we all desire, has dived down the #watchfam rabbit hole. Consequently, they … ContinuedThe post ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Watches & Wonders 2021 Panels: Client Experience SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Apr 13, 2021

Watches & Wonders 2021 Panels: Client Experience

Aside from the flurry of novelties unveiled during the purely-digital Watches & Wonders 2021 (W&W;), discussion panels took place every day, each conceived to tackle some of the most salient issues facing the luxury-watch industry. We bring you a roundup of the panel that took place on April 10 on a key topic for brands and customers alike: the client experience. Despite the predominantly digital set up, W&W; managed to create a truly interactive debate with a mix of participants on site in Geneva, as well as speakers dialling in remotely, all converging to discuss the same topic. Here are the key findings that emerged. The panel with Beatrice Goasglas of TAG Heuer on site with moderator Mélanie Freymond, and the other panellists on screen Client experience in the digital era The client experience is a central theme for luxury brands, which are all trying to go above and beyond to create an encounter that matches the quality embodies by the products that they make. Watchmakers already started down that path several years ago with increasingly elaborate boutiques, but the development of digital tools and now the pandemic have overturned how brands conceive the whole of the client experience. As Beatrice Goasglas, Vice-President for Digital & Customer Experience at TAG Heuer, noted, “Digitalisation is an opportunity, even a blessing, for brands and maisons to engage even more with their final customers.” Indeed, especially within the context of the pandemic, digital too...

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Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Apr 13, 2021

Bulgari Introduces the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap. Platinum (left), and titanium Initial thoughts There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that. Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness. The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market. The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base Be...

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Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Apr 13, 2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 13, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119

Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity. Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119. A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel. The cal. 30-255 PS Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking. But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 int...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary

Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...

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“It may patina, but it won’t go green.” Omega President sheds more light on Bronze Gold in our Top 5 new Omega video Time+Tide
Omega President sheds more light Apr 12, 2021

“It may patina, but it won’t go green.” Omega President sheds more light on Bronze Gold in our Top 5 new Omega video

There were two burning questions I wanted to ask the President of Omega, Mr Raynald Aeschlimann after seeing the new watches that have been revelead in 2021. The first was about the most hotly anticipated reboot of a major model in my time as a watch journalist; the migration of the 3861 movement into the … ContinuedThe post “It may patina, but it won’t go green.” Omega President sheds more light on Bronze Gold in our Top 5 new Omega video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Apr 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire

Hublot truly is a pioneer in watch materials. Their motto “The Art of Fusion” is not just a tagline, it is a prime directive that drives all of their manufacturing. By thinking ahead, and pushing the boundaries of what a manufacturer can do, they are able to execute things many (if not all) brands are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage Time+Tide
Sinn Apr 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage

Cool, icy cool. That’s what we have here, in a watch that brings to mind the German form over function we know from Sinn. With an air of indestructability, the Vero Open Water is a watch in which I can see no trace of vintage, or even the slightest trace of retro homage. And this … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Apr 11, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold

The style du jour in luxury watches today, the integrated-bracelet sports watch – exemplified by the Nautilus and Royal Oak – describes many of the most desirable watches today. Though a newcomer relative to its peers, it would be remiss to look past the Overseas, which is as thin, distinctive, and finely finished. Now Vacheron Constantin has unveiled perhaps the best versions of the model yet – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton – both in white gold with dials in blue. Initial thoughts Both watches aren’t new – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was first introduced in 2016, while the skeleton variant was launched last year. The novelty is merely the new colour, as well as the white gold case for the skeleton model (which was previously only available in pink gold). Compared to the previous iterations, the new blue-and-white-gold combinations give the two watches a modern, understated aesthetic that makes them perhaps the most attractive models in the entire Overseas line. My pick of the pair is the skeleton model, which eminently striking, with its open-worked aesthetic – with all the intricate mechanics on display – elevating the look to another level. My pick would be the skeleton model Both new models are priced about 10% more than their predecessors in pink gold, which is more or less in keeping with the industry norm of pricing white gold slightly high (due to ostensibly hi...

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5 New Chronographs Presented At Watches & Wonders 2021 Quill & Pad
Apr 10, 2021

5 New Chronographs Presented At Watches & Wonders 2021

The chronograph remains one of the most popular complications – and for a good reason. While most of us only use it as a mobile egg timer, chronographs both add a lot of dynamic to the look of a watch and give the wearer a sense of control. Watches & Wonders 2021 is not short on chronographs, which come in their usual wide variety of interpretations. Martin Green highlights five of the most interesting from the digital fair.

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Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk, Harry Winston, And The Opus V: Where On Earth Did That Come From? Plus UR-103.03 User Review – Reprise Quill & Pad
Urwerk Harry Winston Apr 10, 2021

Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk, Harry Winston, And The Opus V: Where On Earth Did That Come From? Plus UR-103.03 User Review – Reprise

While it was the UR-103 that first brought Urwerk attention from serious watch aficionados, it was the Harry Winston Opus V that really launched the boutique independent brand to the world. Ian Skellern takes a trip down memory lane with a deep dive into the history of Urwerk, the story of the Opus V, and a review of the UR-103.03.

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