Deployant
New: Tudor Novelties from Watches & Wonders 2024
We take a look at the novelties from Tudor, in this year's Watches & Wonders 2024. This includes additions to the Black Bay and Clair de Lune collection.
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Deployant
We take a look at the novelties from Tudor, in this year's Watches & Wonders 2024. This includes additions to the Black Bay and Clair de Lune collection.
Time+Tide
There are 54 brands displaying at Watches & Wonders this year, and each of them has designed and built a custom booth, all trying to communicate their values and key releases in the most memorable way possible. IWC has never disappointed in the past, always creating evocative spaces, and this year is no different. Occupying … ContinuedThe post Chris-Grainger Herr talks Hans Zimmer and eternity at the IWC Watches and Wonders 2024 booth appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Model refresh is the order of the day with Speake Marin. And here are our impressions after the hands-on, live from PalExpo.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has introduced the Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003, in rose gold and “brilliant hard titanium” respectively. Named after the dial pattern, the “Birch Bark” is powered by a new manually-wound, high-beat caliber that features the brand’s proprietary dual-impulse escapement. The only completely new model introduced by Grand Seiko at Watches & Wonder this year, the new references introduce a new, notably slimmer aesthetic to the brand’s Evolution 9 collection. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko has earned a devoted following in recent years, but collectors have been asking for slimmer options for some time; this release proves the brand is listening. While there’s nothing revolutionary about it, the watch has been nipped and tucked in all the right areas, getting the case down to 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm in thickness. Compared to the most similar existing watch in the catalog, the Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch” launched two years ago, the new Evolution 9 feature a new movement, a thinner case, slimmer dial markers, and a horizontal interpretation of the brand’s signature white birch-inspired dial texture. The slimmer profile is made possible thanks to the new 9SA4 movement, which is essentially a 9SA5 without automatic winding. This makes it the first manually wound caliber from Grand Seiko’s latest generation of mechanical movements, and also the first to be available without a date function. Perhaps the onl...
SJX Watches
Amongst Patek Philippe’s best known complications is the travel watch, most notably the traditional world time with its mechanism inspired by the Louis Cottier system. Continuing with that tradition, the Patek Philippe World Time with Date ref. 5330G-001 features a thoughtful date complication that has been smartly implemented to allow it to go backwards and forwards in sync with the world time display. This is the regular production version of a model first introduced last year at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo as a limited edition. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe World Time watches have mostly abided by the same 24 city indication style since the 2000’s. The Cottier system is a very convenient way of showing the time simultaneously across 24 timezones by using a 24 hour disk in conjunction with a cities’ disk. The new World Time adds a novel date indication linked to the local time. Though simple on its face, the date display is a sophisticated, two-finger mechanism that allows the date to automatically go backwards or forwards as the time display changes. Travelling from Tokyo to Hawaii, for instance, sends the date backwards. The timepiece gains in utility, as it shows more information to the prospective globetrotter, all while keeping the additional indication discreet. A practical addition The dial may seem cluttered at first, but when taken separately the indications are reasonably legible. The innermost dial with traditional dauphine-shaped hands show...
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
One of Zenith’s latest releases, the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph, takes a sensible step in the direction of familiarity, but also keeps things fresh and new. A stainless steel, integrated bracelet sports chronograph has been done by many brands, and now Zenith is able to punch a weight class above and compete with the likes of Vacheron and Audemars Piguet.
Worn & Wound
Rolex always seems to be the talk of the town during Watches & Wonders. It’s the first booth everyone flocks to on Day 1 at 8:30am when the curtains come up. It’s quite the site to see actually. We at Worn & Wound can’t deny the effect the Rolex releases have on not only watch enthusiasts but the entire luxury world. THIS is what people are waiting for. Well the question of the day is..was the wait worth it this year? I had a sneaky feeling that this would be sort of a mild year for Rolex. They did so much last year at Watches & Wonders with the new Daytona collection, the Emoji Day-Date, and of course the Gumball Oyster Perpetual. That’s a lot to top. Even though I got the sense that most people were underwhelmed with the releases this year, I was very excited to have my first ever appointment with Rolex at the show to get hands on. I got to spend about 40 minutes with all the new releases and I’ll be honest, I think they’re great. The watch that really struck me and I personally feel is the strongest release for Rolex this year is the new Perpetual 1908 in Ice Blue. The dial was absolutely mesmerizing and features what Rolex calls a guilloche rice-grain motif. I often hear from the watch community that Rolex is sometimes too simple or just doesn’t “wow”. I think anyone would have a hard time picking up this watch and not being impressed by the level of finishing it has. Cased in 950 platinum, the watch also features the calibre 7140 which of course ho...
Monochrome
As the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production since 1755, Vacheron Constantin can be proud of its distinguished heritage. With a rich archive at its disposition, the brand can dip into over two and a half centuries for inspiration. The Patrimony collection made its debut in 2004 and turned its gaze back to the […]
Monochrome
IWC Schaffhausen has undertaken a comprehensive reworking and refinement of one of its most iconic models, the Portugieser collection. At Watches and Wonders this week in Geneva, four new versions are unveiled: two in white gold with blue and sand-coloured dials and two in Armor Gold with black and silver dials. And there’s more to […]
Worn & Wound
Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...
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Monochrome
Two years ago, Speak Marin added Ripples, a luxury sports watch, to its repertoire. Although it marks a departure from the brand’s models housed in the distinctive and regal Piccadilly case, some elements of the design language associated with Speake Marin have prevailed. Offered initially with monochromatic dials, Speake Marin’s chic sports watch welcomes a […]
Worn & Wound
It is no secret that one of the star releases at last year’s Watches & Wonders was the Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper Chronograph, featuring their new glassbox design. This watch remains ever popular, as one year later, retailers still cannot keep them in inventory. Not willing to rest on their laurels, for 2024, Tag Heuer is releasing a solid gold version of the Carrera Skipper Chronograph. Made of 18K 5N rose gold, dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Its distinctive blue dial features a green, orange, teal blue color lacquered regatta count-down indicator at 3 o’clock, a teal blue color lacquered hour totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a blue permanent second indicator at 6 o’clock. All hands and indices are also made of 18K 5N rose gold. This new Carrera Chronograph Skipper brings a new level of luxury and collectability to TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper is 21,500 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. Images from this post: The post TAG Heuer Introduces a Gold Version of the Skipper Carrera appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Following the success of last year’s glassbox Carrera chronograph releases, Tag Heuer extends the collection with a new for 2024 bi-compax panda look in stainless steel. This watch features a silver brushed sunray dial, with a black minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, a black hour chronograph totalizer at 9 o’clock, and a permanent seconds indicator in silver at 6 o’clock. Dimensions are 39mm in diameter, 46mm from lug-to-lug, and just under 14mm thick. Revealed through its sapphire display back is the in-house chronograph movement Heuer 02 (Ref.TH20-00). It features a bi-directional winding, a new shield-shaped rotor, and an impressive 80-hour power reserve. What made last year’s releases so appealing was their new combination of a concave dial and outward convex tachymeter rehaut, which hugged the outer curvature of the glassbox sapphire crystal. The look is quite frankly mesmerizing, and it has completely rejuvenated the Carrera line. This harmonious blend of vintage tribute, contemporary elegance, and novelty truly embody the spirit for which TAG Heuer is renowned. Retail pricing for the tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph is $6,650 USD, for more information visit www.tagheuer.com. The post TAG Heuer Introduces a New Glassbox Carrera Chronograph appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
The definition of an icon is someone or something that is a representative symbol. In watchmaking, we often tout specific models as being iconic, and the term fits perfectly well most of the time. It’s often referred to as a poster-type watch for an entire brand, a specific style of design, or a genre of […]
Hodinkee
A detail-driven approach to a subtle redesign of the brand's core everyday sports watch.
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Monochrome
Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]
Monochrome
First released in 2019, the Chopard Alpine Eagle collection was met with great success. The brand’s vision of a luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, it took design cues from a vintage model – the St Mortiz – and adapted it to modern tastes. Specifically, it stands apart with its fascinating textured dial, modelled […]
Worn & Wound
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was such a hit that they decided to make a sequel. Okay, that’s not totally accurate. 2022’s unexpected breakout watch did get a new version just two years later, but rather than a sequel, it’s more of a redux-a different take on the same story. A director’s cut? For those who need a recap, however, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon was nothing short of complete and utter shock when first unveiled, even though there had already been a teaser trailer (I’m going to try to keep this movie thing up) in the form the T0 concept movement. While known for its finishing, spring drive, and high-beat movements, Grand Seiko was not considered a manufacturer of high-end complications. As such, even though it was a concept movement, the T0, which unveiled a novel constant-force tourbillon, took everyone by surprise. When Grand Seiko then unveiled the Kodo just a short while later, which included a refined and manufacturable version (if on a small scale) of the same complication within a skeletonized and highly finished movement on par with any haute Swiss brand, it announced that Grand Seiko was ready to play on a different level. A few years later, the Kodo, though sold out, is still being assembled via a team of three specialized watchmakers within Grand Seiko Atelier Ginza studio. Back to the present. Light and shadow are pervasive themes in Grand Seiko’s design. Alongside nature, they are at the core of their ...
Monochrome
Unveiled in 2020, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph was a spectacular showcase of Vacheron Constantin’s dexterity in combining a monopusher chronograph and tourbillon complication with a twist, thanks to its unconventional layout. Now considered a classic, Vacheron has inducted the Traditionnelle into its hall of fame to become a member of the Excellence Platine club. Crafted […]
Monochrome
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox 39mm reference, drawing inspiration from the iconic 1960s model, the Heuer Carrera 7753 SN, introduces a universally beloved panda-style chronograph dial. This latest addition to the series is the first to offer a bracelet option, a significant departure from the previous strap-only models. The new TAG Heuer Carrera […]
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
The first two days of Watches & Wonders have been fun to cover from the perspective of TBWS. Obviously, many of these watches are to be admired from afar and are not typically something we'd be able to add to our personal collections. But damn, it's still exciting - especially over at the Zenith camp. This year alongside their vintage Revival A3648, the brand has introduced the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver, a very modern dive watch entry that showcases Zenith's technical abilities. Much like last year, Zenith may be running as my favorite exhibitor at Watches & Wonders.
SJX Watches
Last year, Rolex made waves with its new dress watch collection, the Perpetual 1908. Initially comprising four references in yellow and white gold with silver and black dials, the 1908 now gains a new addition: the Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52506) in platinum. Continuing with the Rolex tradition of a dial colour unique to platinum models, the new 1908 features an ice blue dial finished with rice-grain guilloché that is traditionally applied with a rose engine. Initial thoughts The release of the 1908 was unexpected and marked a departure from the brand’s focus on sports watches. The models launched last year, however, were conservatively styled. The introduction of a guilloché dial, a first for the range, livens up the aesthetics of the 1908 while still retaining the overall design. The traditional engine-turning lends a three-dimensional effect to the dial, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. Additionally, it adds an artisanal touch to the model. The platinum ref. 52506 is priced at US$30,900, a sizeable increase over its yellow and white gold counterparts, but comparable to the pricing for other Rolex models, particularly with the addition of the guilloche dial. The Perpetual 1908 introduced last year in white gold (left) and yellow gold (right) “Rice-grain” guilloché The latest release showcases a striking ice blue dial adorned with an intricate guilloché “rice-grain” motif, achieved through the engraving technique of guillochage, whereby an engraver employs an eng...
Worn & Wound
Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. The post Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]
Monochrome
Putting jokes aside, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a captivating addition to its Tonda PF Micro-Rotor collection: the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date. Featuring a Grain d’Orge Golden Siena dial devoid of a date function; this timepiece exudes a strikingly pure aesthetic bound to captivate enthusiasts. Measuring 40mm in diameter and 45.6mm lug-to-lug, with a thickness […]
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