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RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage Time+Tide
Mar 19, 2023

RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage

If you are reading this, then in all likelihood you are passionate about watchmaking – or, at the very least, on the path to being a watch enthusiast. But, in order for us to report on watches, and for all of us to be able to purchase and have our watches serviced when needed, this … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED VIEWING: NBC reports on the threat of a watchmaker shortage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector Mar 18, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector

The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector brings attention to negative space in a refreshing way. The new anthracite dial is inspired by the clear and dark skies of Antarctica. The use of titanium means the whole watch weighs only 95g. Reviving an extinct watch brand can often lead to the creative trap of rehashing vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Czapek Antarctique Titanium Dark Sector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 17, 2023

Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall

Jay-Z and his watches.  Historically, he's been an AP man.  He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man.  Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT"  and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.

Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop Worn & Wound
Mar 17, 2023

Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop

It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is around the corner. And with that, your purchasing prowess finds itself in hibernation while you eagerly await what your favorite watch brand is going to release. But what does that mean for your current collection? Should those watches hide in fear of possibly taking that long trip to sales land. We at the Windup Watch Shop say no! It’s that time of year again. Watches and Wonders is around the corner. And with that, your purchasing prowess finds itself in hibernation while you eagerly await what your favorite watch brand is going to release. But what does that mean for your current collection? Should those watches hide in fear of possibly taking that long trip to sales land. We at the Windup Watch Shop say no! The post Countdown to Spring with some great deals from the Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Pocket Watches: From Historical Icons to Modern Collectibles Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 17, 2023

Pocket Watches: From Historical Icons to Modern Collectibles

Before wristwatches, there were pocket watches, and while pocket watches have long been eclipsed in the market, and in the hearts of many collectors, by their wrist-worn brethren, they never went away entirely. In the 21st century, a pocket watch is a rarity that can represent many things: for a watch aficionado, it can be a proudly retrograde style statement to complement a boldly chosen ensemble, or a Holy Grail piece to proudly display at the center of a collection of wristwatches. For a watchmaker, the pocket watch’s larger dimensions can provide a playground for the most ambitious high-horological inventions and decorative artistry. As I explore in more detail in this article, the historical figure most often credited as the inventor of the pocket watch is German clockmaker and locksmith Peter Henlein (1485-1542), who cobbled together the first so-called “clock-watches,” i.e., compact timekeepers designed to be worn on a person’s body, in his shop in Nuremberg in 1510. Essentially drum-shaped, ornamental brass boxes, with primitive, single-handed movements made of iron or steel inside, and suspended on chains draped around one’s neck, these devices were more regarded as ornamental jewelry than reliable timepieces. The drum-shaped cases eventually gave way to more smoothly rounded oval shaped ones, aka the so-called “Nuremberg eggs,” which were also worn as pendants. King Charles II of England ushered in the next major step in the evolution of watches wit...

The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers Time+Tide
Mar 16, 2023

The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers

Bamford London presents new Bamford B80 lineup Three expressions, seven configurations, all cased in titanium The Adventure, Heritage and Modern models have their own distinct dial expressions Most watch collectors are familiar with the name George Bamford and the Bamford Watch Department due to their pioneering efforts in watch customisation. But, these days, while Bamford … ContinuedThe post The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé Worn & Wound
H. Moser Finally Introduces Mar 16, 2023

H. Moser (Finally) Introduces a Smaller Pioneer in Two Flavors of Arctic Blue Fumé

You know what’s satisfying? When a watch brand does the thing that just about everyone wants them to do, after a period of time where it seemed like they definitely were not going to do that very thing. Listening to customers and delivering what they want is a hallmark of the microbrand scene, and, at least to some extent, independent watchmaking as a whole. But it needs to be balanced – you can’t just turn out every request that comes in, lest a brand lose their identity in the process. So what H. Moser has done here with a pair of new watches in the Pioneer collection feels quite special, like they’ve heard the voice of the community and reacted in a particularly Moser way.  When I reviewed the Moser Pioneer “Mega Cool” I commented that the immediate impression of the case, in terms of its size, was not a positive one. The 43mm Pioneer case in stainless steel is heavy and kind of clunky, with proportions that seem designed to make it recognizable from across a room rather than contour to the wrist. In principle, I don’t have a problem with that approach – there’s nothing wrong with a watch being brash and bold just for the sake of it. But even as I gradually got used to the size of the Pioneer during my time with it, the case’s oversized aesthetic was just never to my taste. Kind of a shame, because I absolutely love the dial, and the idea of an elevated, luxury sports watch in this style holds a lot of appeal for me.  This week, Moser has gone a lo...

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer brings GMT functionality to the party Time+Tide
Mido Mar 15, 2023

The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer brings GMT functionality to the party

One of the most instantly lovable watches of 2020 was the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, a dive watch blazing with pastel hues that drew a goofy smile from even the most hard-hearted watch nerd. Here was a revivial of Mido’s mid-century cult classic, the Powerwind “Rainbow” diver, brought up to modern sizing and … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer brings GMT functionality to the party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Teams Up Mar 15, 2023

Massena LAB Teams Up with Angelus for a Limited Edition Doctor’s Chronograph with a Special Movement

For the latest Massena LAB limited edition, William Massena’s boutique brand specializing in tasteful remakes of classic pieces with real watch nerd pedigree is reaching back to the 1960s, and showcasing a different type of tool watch. The collaborator for this edition, Angelus, is a historic Swiss brand known largely for their excellent chronographs, and the limited edition seen here is based on a deep cut made specifically for physicians. The Chronographe Médical x Massena LAB is the first watch in Angelus’s new La Fabrique collection, which will specialize in recreating important Angelus watches in small batch limited editions.  The principle behind a “doctor’s watch” is fairly well known. These watches were typically chronographs that incorporate a pulsation scale at the perimeter of the dial or within a bezel, making it easy for a doctor to quickly calculate the heartrate of a patient. Their operation is simple: start the chronograph, count ten heartbeats (or the number the scale on your watch is calibrated for), and then stop the chronograph. The chronograph seconds hand will be pointing to the number of heart beats per minute. You can imagine that the practicality here for a doctor, particularly when watches like this were being made in the 1950s and 60s, was off the charts. Even for the average person, it could be argued that a pulsation scale would be more useful day to day than something like a tachymeter or a telemeter.  The Chronograph Médical lim...

HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Mar 15, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing

I am not going to beat around the bush here. With the holy trinity ushering in the era of crazy demand for integrated sports watch designs, and their unobtanium status in terms of purchasing at retail, the search for alternatives has grown and grown over the last decade. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato is constantly a part … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition has our hearts racing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation Mar 15, 2023

IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph

With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 15, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches. Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial. From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers Initial thoughts Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch. Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this. I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag. And while it costs slightly mor...

The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics) Time+Tide
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection Mar 14, 2023

The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics)

Zach, what would be a great first watch for me to buy? This is a question I get asked all the time, and the answer almost always leads to a discussion about Tissot. Upon the introduction of the PRX, were anyone looking for a sporty yet elegant and cost-approachable go-anywhere-do-anything watch, it could not be … ContinuedThe post The new Tissot Chemin des Tourelles collection aims to make classic design contemporary (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 13, 2023

Compass Watches for Mountaineers and Explorers: Sporty Digitals to Lux

Watches with compasses are a rare breed among tool watches, mainly because - unlike chronographs, dual time zone functions, and calendars - their usefulness in everyday circumstances is rather limited. Generally, in the era of GPS and Google Maps, one rarely has a pressing need to identify True North on a hand-held (or wrist-worn) device. However, like other “niche” watch functions that serve mainly as aesthetic curiosities in quiet business or domestic environments, compasses - which can be as low-tech as a movable bezel with orientation markers or as high-tech as a digital readout that takes control of the watch’s display at the push of a button - have a special appeal to active, outdoorsy enthusiasts. Avid hikers, mountain climbers, spelunkers, and others devoted to adventure in environments where one is often bereft of modern conveniences like reliable wifi, tend to gravitate toward a more rugged, utilitarian style of watch, often with built-in tools that go beyond timekeeping. This is why you’ll often find compass-equipped watches with other useful indicators for factors like temperature, atmospheric pressure, and altitude. The relative rarity of compass watches could also be traced, at least in part, to a handful of truisms. One is that as an additional indicator on a watch, it’s basically superfluous: any analog watch with an hour hand, hour markers, and reliable accuracy can be used for orientation, at least while the sun is out. Simply lay the wa...

Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2023

Ollech & Wajs’ Astrochron S Combines a 500 WR Dive Chronograph with a Compass Bezel and Regatta Counter

If I had a time machine to visit any point in history, my adventurous spirit would punch in the year 1969. This was already a period rich with daring exploration, technological innovation, and historical achievement that inevitably led to the culmination of the Space Race with NASA putting a man on the moon. But that wasn’t the only “high stakes” race going on at the time. Watch brands all over the world were jockeying for position to see who could make the most robust tool watch for explorers foraying into the most extreme conditions including the unknown depths of the ocean, mountainous death zones, and of course, outer space. Ollech & Wajs was one of the brands that were most certainly in the mix with their own multi-functional triple register chronograph aptly dubbed the Astrochron. The Astrochron’s distinctive multi-scale display made it a popular choice among engineers and scientists in NASA’s research and development lab including Chief Rocket Scientist, Werner Von Braun, or otherwise known as the “father of space travel.” Equipped with a rotating 12 hour bezel, tachymeter scale on the dial, chronograph timer, and a slew of other attractive tool watch features, the Astrochron found its way onto the wrists of sportsmen, pilots, and ship officers alike. Recently, Ollech & Wajs has decided to revisit the design and one glance will confirm that this isn’t your original 1967 Astrochron. With the new refresh, Ollech & Wajs’ already capable multi-function...

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33 Worn & Wound
H. Moser Mar 13, 2023

Atelier de Chronométrie Partners with The Lavish Attic on Ultra Limited AdC33

Earlier this year, we saw the debut of a new ‘in-house’ caliber from Atelier de Chronométrie called the M284 within a beautiful watch called the AdC22 which we introduced to you right here. Today we’re getting a glimpse at the next chapter for this movement in the form of the AdC33, a limited edition collaboration with The Lavish Attic, a Hong Kong based collective that curates exclusive high craft products and experiences, serving as area distributors for Urwerk and H. Moser. Here, the outfit is collaborating with Atelier de Chronométrie on an exclusive watch that offers buyers a few interesting choices, including white “Grand Feu” enamel dials with ancient Chinese characters, and an alloy called Gray Gold.  Precious metal cases have expanded beyond the likes of just yellow and rose gold, with stuff like tantalum, black platinum, and proprietary mixes like Omega’s Moonshine offering a wide selection of pricey yet tantalizing choices when it comes to cases. Let’s add gray gold to that list, a gold alloy with high palladium content that apparently lands somewhere between white gold and platinum in appearance. In the case of the AdC33 seen here, it takes on the stepped 37mm case in beautiful fashion, and it’s offered alongside more traditional yellow and rose options. Not to be outdone by the case, the dial brings plenty of intrigue as well thanks to its finish as well as the markings at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. The white grand feu dial is ins...

Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 Worn & Wound
Laco Aachen 42 You’ve just Mar 13, 2023

Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42

You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. You’ve just purchased that watch you always wanted. The size is perfect. The color is exactly how it looked online. And for days afterwards, you find yourself in utter bliss. However, like most people on this earth, you end up wanting something different. Something more. And it’s at that point in time you start looking at straps. The post Paired Up Mondays With The Laco Aachen 42 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Comedian Shane Gillis reveals Kid Rock loves pranking people by giving them fake watches Time+Tide
Mar 12, 2023

Comedian Shane Gillis reveals Kid Rock loves pranking people by giving them fake watches

Watchmaking is a serious business, one that can be very buttoned up and traditional. But in an age of social media, we have begun to see humour creep into the mix more and more – particularly on Instagram through various watch meme accounts. We certainly have our cheeky side in our own coverage here at Time+Tide, … ContinuedThe post Comedian Shane Gillis reveals Kid Rock loves pranking people by giving them fake watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer Time+Tide
Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers Mar 11, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer

Seiko are celebrating their 110th anniversary of making wristwatches. The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series pays tribute to traditional Japanese techniques. The four dials cover enamel, porcelain and lacquer. Most people would know that Seiko is a Japanese brand, however, their ties to their country of origin run much deeper than the majority of watch brands. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.