Revolution
Introducing the A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst
Lange unveils the seventh Handwerkskunst watch, the Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, along with new executions of the Langematik Perpetual & Saxonia Thin
Results for Mechanical Watch Accuracy
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Revolution
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Saxonia Thin Aventurine in Pink Gold
Three months after Watches & Wonders 2021 (where it debuted the Triple Split in pink gold amongst others), A. Lange & Söhne is now back with more new releases, as is now the norm with watch fairs having gone online. Of the trio of new launches, the Saxonia Thin is the simplest, but no less striking. Clad in lively, blue aventurine glass and pink gold, the watch has a rich, sparkly aesthetic quite antithetical to the fuss-free style usually associated with the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts While flourishes like the aventurine-glass dial are uncommon for Lange in general, the sparkly glass dial is not new. In fact, the material was first used in the white gold Saxonia Thin back in 2017. The brand followed up with the same but with a black aventurine-glass dial last December, and then the pair of Little Lange 1 Moon Phase earlier this year. That’s four models with aventurine glass dials in as many years. The new model is a first, in that it matches the blue aventurine-glass dial with a pink gold case, giving the watch a warm aesthetic not found in earlier versions, or even the broader catalogue where the combination of pink gold and blue is found only on the recent Triple Split. This is no doubt a good news for collectors that already have everything from the brand and want something different. Still, the frequency of aventurine-glass inevitably chips away at its uniqueness. One nitpick I have about the watch is personal – I find the Saxonia Thin too wide and f...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Revives the Cabaret Tourbillon in Handwerkskunst Style
Easily the most surprising of the three recent releases by A. Lange & Söhne is something unconventional but familiar – the brand’s flagship rectangular watch that was first released in 2008, but now dressed up in artisanal finery. The Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is seventh in the eponymous line characterised by artisanal decoration – handwerkskunst translates as “craftsmanship” – and features a hand-engraved lozenge pattern on the front and back, along with a fired enamel dial. Initial Impressions The Cabaret Tourbillon was quite a statement at its launch, being the first wristwatch with a hacking tourbillon – pull the crown and the entire tourbillon assembly stopped – which allowed for more precise setting of the time. But despite its merits, the original Cabaret Tourbillon was never a hot seller, so its revival is likely a one-off. The return of the model is certainly unexpected, since the Cabaret left the catalogue several years ago. The Cabaret quietly faded into obscurity, and the current Lange lineup is focused on round watches. Largely similar in style, but far more elaborate in decoration, the new Handwerkskunst edition is a fitting tribute to the discontinued model. Unlike earlier Handwerkskunst editions that were flashier, the Cabaret is executed more conservatively, with the decorative flourishes typical of Handwerkskunst less apparent. The watch is clearly meant to be appreciated close-up, with the knowledge that the geometric pattern ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 Whitepearl is as fresh as an arctic breeze
The SUB 200 is the most contemporary diver’s watch in the retro-tastic arsenal of DOXA. It was already a strong contender to be the ideal summer watch, but such claims are further strengthened by this all-white remix. While the DOXA SUB 200 Whitepearl may be colourless, it’s far from insipid – the feeling it evokes … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The DOXA SUB 200 Whitepearl is as fresh as an arctic breeze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph
First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…) This...
Video
My Watch Story: A Love For James Bond by Craig Wright
Revolution
Time Trial: Introducing the Jacques Bianchi JB 200
Wei Koh sits down to talk about the new Jacques Bianchi Diver watch, a re-edition of his 1982 diving watch that was used by the French Navy.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic
For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...
Time+Tide
British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet
It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity
This is not the first time we’ve shown you a watch from Switzerland’s Brellum, an independent brand created in 2016 by fourth generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller. And although this is our Micro Mondays feature, Brellum is really established enough as a small manufacturer to deserve to be called an atelìer, with an exclusive production of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)
While its convertible Amadeo case allows the Bovet Miss Audrey watch to be easily converted to a pendant or desk clock, the focus of Sweet Art is its incredible sugar crystal dial. Joshua Munchow was skeptical when he first heard about the sugar being used but the results speak for themselves, and it is hard to argue that the dials aren’t indeed gorgeously crafted. You must see this for yourself.
Video
My Top Watch Collecting Regrets From 2020 - Watches I Wish I didn't Sell - Seiko Jay Leno Breguet ++
Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther: Fun Or Fail? (Video)
Can a serious watch manufacture get away with producing such a “gimmicky” timepiece as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther? Serious and gimmicky are not mutually exclusive, but they were posed as two different questions in the same breath by Marc André Deschoux of The Watches TV in a special video taking a look at the first timepiece to emerge from the collaborative energy between Audemars Piguet and Marvel Studios. What's your opinion?
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise
The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of my best friends had arranged for the two of us to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: my friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what I saw left me reeling – my first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. I was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for me, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.
SJX Watches
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai
Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...
WatchAdvice
Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review
Time is precious. So are every moment. Slow down and savour the moment. Take a deep breath. Pause. Accuracy is important but today we place perhaps too much importance on being precise. But time is about moments, rather than each individual second. The moments are what we remember and whilst time shouldn’t be wasted, it should also be lived and enjoyed. This is the philosophy behind Meistersinger watches. Its singled-handed-ness is designed to help you slow down time, to 5-minute increments, so that you no longer focus on the seconds, and rather, the important moments in your life. The precious moments, the ones that will live on forever. Even the logo of Meistersinger alludes to this: take the time and “pause”. It is indeed the musical symbol/notation for pause and is used to great effect in music. It can be the climax of the piece, it can be where you take a breath, to highlight a point in the music, the storytelling. It can make all the difference in a fast-paced, unrelenting allegro series of semiquavers and staccatos that is today’s lives. Pause. There comes a point in time where rushing is no longer needed nor wanted. Not everything is a race and the charge to the next point is more often than not irrelevant. It doesn’t matter in the grand scheme of things. Yes, punctuality is important but being punctual has nothing to do with rushing and accuracy. Take the time to admire the surroundings. Look up. Look around. Look deep into something. Look at the wor...
Time+Tide
Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history
Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, … ContinuedThe post Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Dwayne The Rock Johnson’s Watch Collection. What Watch Does the Rock Wear?
Quill & Pad
3 Indies With Eye-Catching Dials: Fratello x Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake, Ming 20.11 Mosaic, And MB&F; LM FlyingT Malachite
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days at the end of August and the European summer break, some independent watch brands have announced new watches. Here, Elizabeth Doerr highlights three of these new watches with eye-catching dials that really caught her own eye.
Hodinkee
Introducing: This New Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Is Olympic Gold
The final – at least we think – 2020 Olympics watch.
Time+Tide
The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future
In 2017, Rado decided to bring back their 1960s classic, the Captain Cook diver. Sparking positive reactions from the watch media, while making a strong connection with many a vintage watch lover’s heart, it became an instant success. Subsequently, Rado has refused to rest on their laurels by continuously evolving the line. We have seen … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition
Unveiled five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is Chopard’s most affordable perpetual calendar, but finely executed as is typical of L.U.C, the brand’s line of mechanical watches powered by top-class in-house movements. Featuring details absent in similarly-priced peers, such a micro-rotor movement and oversized date, the Perpetual Twin has since been iterated into several versions, but the winner is now clear: the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition, a collaboration between the watchmaker and eponymous collectors club based in Spain. The CronotempVs edition has a striking palette: dial with an uncommon, grained-gold finish with black sub-dials and indices, giving it a strong, high-contrast look that suits the largish steel case. Initial thoughts Chopard’s prowess in watchmaking is indisputable – its top-of-the-line creations rival even the work put out by best independent watchmakers – but the brand is often overlooked, especially since prevailing fads mean most turn to bigger names or “safer” choices. And it doesn’t help that Chopard generates most of its revenue from cheerful ladies’ watches and jewellery. The L.U.C line stands out for its movements with sophisticated construction and finishing, even for the simplest, entry-level models – demonstrated by the double-chronometer wristwatch unveiled earlier this year. But it still receives a lukewarm reception from the broader market. That’s in part due to the designs, which are often satis...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Six-Figure 'Space Jam' Tourbillon That Is Perfect For Somebody Out There
The good folks at Kross Studio have created a haute horology hoops watch.
Video
An Underrated Dive Watch With Great Looks - Rado Captain Cook Black Dial
SJX Watches
The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov
Russian independent watchmaker Maxim Sushkov specialises in affordable custom timepieces, and has just unveiled his latest. Created for an Austrian client, the Watch Creative is a dress watch with classical elements like teardrop lugs and Breguet numerals, as well as a few striking, original details, such as the unusual, droplet-shaped hands. Initial thoughts While still niche, independent watchmaking has gained increasing traction in recent years. Its rising popularity has been accompanied with rising prices, both in the secondary market and at retail. A few watchmakers, however, continue to offer accessibly priced, original work. One such example is Mr Sushkov, who provides a channel for enthusiasts to commission one-off timepieces, appealing to collectors who fancy something unique but affordable. The Watch Creative illustrates Mr Sushkov’s work well. From the case with soldered lugs to the guilloche dial, it’s made up of a mix of stock and custom parts – with a good deal of work done by hand – resulting in a simple watch with interesting details. In fact, the custom execution make it a good value proposition at around US$4,200. This has little competition at the US$4,000 mark in a similar vein of customised watches, except for fellow Russian watchmakers like HoD (though it occasionally works with Mr Sushkov). An alternative similar priced but the complete opposite in concept is the Ophion Velos, a watch that is more polished and refined, but made by machine i...
Time+Tide
Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best?
Let’s get ready to rumble in this horological battle with Rolex as the weapon of choice. In one corner, wearing his customary skinny jeans is Wiz Khalifa. The rap superstar has always been open about enjoying blinged-out wristwear. “So many rocks up in my watch I can’t tell what the time is,” he happily admitted … ContinuedThe post Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe
At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.
Revolution
Introducing Eric Ku’s True Tudor Prototype
The watch world’s super dealer Eric Ku uncovers a rare prototype of the Tudor “Homeplate” Chronograph.
Hodinkee
Rewind: Return To The "Blue Lagoon"
A watch that is perfect for a trip to the ocean, or a dash through a backyard sprinkler
Video