2,338 articles · 178 videos found · page 65 of 84
Monochrome
The sunburst green dial is not a new concept for Vacheron Constantin; there are references in the Traditionelle collection featuring the same finish. With that in mind, the new sporty and chic Overseas references, while adding a new adventurous direction, are essentially the same watches we have seen released in previous years, in pink gold […]
Monochrome
One field of expertise immediately comes to mind when thinking about Piaget: the art of crafting ultra-thin watches. Throughout its history, the brand has become synonymous with legendary calibres, such as the 2mm thin 9P introduced in 1957 and the 2.3mm thin 12P micro-rotor movement unveiled in 1960. Approximately a decade ago, the groundbreaking 900P […]
Hodinkee
Will mint green be the final boss of the green dial trend?
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is marking 25 years of its landmark chronograph of 1999 with the Datograph Up/Down “25th Anniversary”, a limited edition that’s a subtle but significant variation of the familiar model. The anniversary Datograph sports a dark blue dial matched with a white gold case that contains the much loved L951.6 movement. Limited to 125 pieces, the new model joins the regular production versions in platinum and pink gold (both with black dials) that remain in the catalogue. And it’s the more affordable of the anniversary editions, with the flagship being the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”. Initial thoughts While the anniversary Datograph doesn’t seem like much on the face of it, the colour and material is fairly unique for the model. The Datograph has only ever been offered in platinum, pink or yellow gold, and never before with a blue dial (except on one occasion). Though left unstated in the official announcement, the blue dial is clearly a reference to a unique example of the first-generation Datograph that had a blue dial, something that fans of the brand will appreciate. Moreover, the Datograph is rarely iterated as a limited edition. This is only the third Datograph limited edition (following the Datograph Lumen of 2019), leaving aside gem-set models. Consequently, there’s a lot to like about this, with a big caveat. As comparably-priced alternative to the regular production models, this is a compelling proposition. However, ...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaker Czapek whets our appetite ahead of Watches & Wonders 2024, pre-releasing the handsome Antarctique Mount Erebus, the first gold version of its successful luxury sports watch. But there is more coming our way from the creative brand: two cool new versions of the Antarctique and, more importantly, a new collection, Promenade. The New […]
Hodinkee
The team at Only Watch has completed a financial audit meant to ensure faith in the nonprofit, but a number of prominent brands are no longer participating.
Worn & Wound
The Navitimer is one of a very small handful of watches that is quite simply an undisputed classic. If you say the name, it conjures an immediate image in the mind’s eye: a busy pilot’s chronograph with an uncommon (but completely useful) slide rule bezel. It has the look of a real flight instrument because in a very real sense that’s exactly what it is. But the very idea of what a Navitimer can be has changed a lot in recent years, with the introduction of references that skip the chronograph entirely. The Navitimer is now more than just a single iconic watch, it’s a collection of aviation inspired watches that use the classic as a starting point but branch out into all kinds of new areas. It’s the kind of thing that purists, frankly, sneer at. But it’s an undeniably shrewd move by Breitling to get the Navitimer name out there, and the watches on the wrists of new customers who may not be interested in a toolish chronograph whose design hasn’t changed much for decades. So now, in an expansion of the collection tied to Breitling’s 140th anniversary, we have a new Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41. The Navitimer Automatic 41 is perhaps the most straightforward execution of the Navitimer aesthetic, sans chronograph, yet. It’s not the first Navitimer in a 41mm case without a chrono complication, but it is the first without a date at the 6:00 position. This dateless execution is considerably cleaner and will probably be of greater appeal to enthusiasts than ...
SJX Watches
One of the leading names in contemporary Russian independent watchmaking alongside Konstantin Chaykin is Anton Suhanov, an ACHI candidate mostly known for his triple-axis table tourbillon clocks. He now applies his inventive mind to the calendar wristwatch to create the Chronotope, a timepiece with simple functions executed in a clever and sophisticated manner. Initial thoughts Russian watchmaking is more obscure compared to Swiss or German, but the country has a rich history of watch and jewellery artisans, most famously Faberge. Modern Russian haute horologerie harks back to that history, with Konstantin Chaykin and more recently Anton Suhanov being prime movers. The Chronotope is a day-date watch with an unusual dial design. A day-date complication is not difficult generally regarded as uninteresting because of its basic nature, but the unexpectedly original execution of the Chronotope makes it appealing. Displayed on a wide arc almost 360 degrees wide, the day of the week is indicated with a retrograde hand labelled “today”, which flies back to Monday at the end of the week. It is controlled by an exposed snail cam at six that forms an integral part of the aesthetic. The dial looks modern and almost industrial, with an interesting combination of muted greys with spots of colour, primarily in the form of ruby components – a clever way of utilising functional rubies as decorative elements. The industrial feel is underlined by the simple, but smartly detailed case. ...
Monochrome
Last year, the bold and ultra-modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a young Parisian independent watchmaker celebrated for crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. And it’s now time for the duo to present its […]
Worn & Wound
I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites. The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...
SJX Watches
An outlandish concept that originally sprang from the mind of Carole Forestier Kasapi, the Ulysse Nardin Freak of 2001 was perfected by Dr Ludwig Oechslin and then made reality thanks to the advent of silicon in watchmaking. Lightweight and magnetism resistant, silicon was used for the escape wheels but that was only the beginning of the story. [This story, the third and final instalment in the series, details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor. The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement.] Silicon, Silicium, Silinvar Now used interchangeably with silicon, silicium is actually French for “silicon”, but now it is also used as the trade name for the proprietary form of silicon used by Ulysse Nardin for movement components, namely silicon with a hard oxide outer layer that gives the material thermocompensating properties. Silicium was developed by Swiss scientific institute Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique (CSEM) in collaboration with Ulysse Nardin. Notably, the material is also known as Silinvar, which resulted from a separated but related CSEM project backed by a consortium made up of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Swatch Group. As a ...
Monochrome
When you think about astronomical watches, timekeepers that are capable of displaying complex indications related to the position of the moon, the sun, the length of days or the equation of time, you might have in mind watches with fairly loaded dials and an array of star-inspired textures. There’s surely nothing wrong with that, but […]
Worn & Wound
With 140 years of history, there have been countless milestones for Breitling. One that comes to mind happened on March 21, 1999. It was on that day that an air balloon, called the Breitling Orbiter 3, landed in the Egyptian desert, making Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones the first two men to circumnavigate the globe during this mode of transportation. It’s this tenacity and adventurous spirit which has been imbued in the Swiss brand since 1884 – and there doesn’t seem to be any slowing down. In fact, Breitling’s latest watch, the Aerospace B70 Orbiter 25th Anniversary Edition is a watch to honor Piccard and Jones’ legacy, while hoping to inspire a new generation of adventurers – or those of us who are adventurers at heart. Each watch contains a segment of the original Breitling Orbiter 3 balloon, visible through the transparent caseback. Adorned with the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo and the inscription “First non-stop flight around the world 25th anniversary,” this watch serves as a tangible reminder of humanity’s boundless spirit of exploration. The color scheme of the dial matches that of the Breitling Orbiter 3’s capsule, coming in a bright orange that will catch people’s eyes and surely become a conversation starter. The orange dial is complemented by a 43mm titanium case and a choice of a matching bracelet or black rubber strap. The dial itself features the Breitling Orbiter 3 mission logo at 3 o’clock and the numerals, indices, and hand...
Fratello
With Watches and Wonders 2024 just around the corner, it’s time to let the releases begin! Today, we have news of two new Chronoswiss watches. The Strike Two Golden Gear and the Strike Two H2O are meant to pave a new direction for the brand. There’s no denying these are Chronoswiss watches, but look closely, […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Depancel’s racing-inspired design DNA is all over the French brand’s new Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm. “As an engineer, I have always been fascinated by the beauty of mechanics, passionate about cars and watches,” said Clément Meynier, founder of Depancel. There are the obvious components–it is a chronograph, after all, meant to help drivers time their cars and calculate speed with the handy tachymeter. But Depancel sneaks in subtler cues as well. The Allure Automatic Chronograph features a textured dial meant to evoke the grille of a car, pushers meant to evoke pistons, and a crown meant to evoke a radiator cap. It’s not just a watch for racing–it’s a watch for racing enthusiasts, hoping to transport fans “to an era where chronographs were more than simple measuring instruments for race car drivers, they were loyal companions.” The Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is available in two colorways: a blue dial and a silver dial, both using orange as a secondary highlight color. Adding some further color options to the mix, it can be paired with a black, brown, or blue leather strap with orange stitching or a metal bracelet. On the leather straps, a one-off red, white, and blue stitch near the upper lugs pays subtle homage to the flag of France. With a non-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal and 100m of water resistance, the Depancel Allure Automatic Chronograph 43mm is durable, robust, and in a definitively contemporary case size. ...
Fratello
When Panerai introduced the Radiomir Tre Giorni with an unusual dial color last summer, it attracted relatively little attention. Well, little attention from the watch media, that is. The moment I saw the first image of it, I knew I needed to have it. And that was a bit tricky for me because I had […] Visit Love And Hate - The Panerai PAM01350 Radiomir Tre Giorni With A Beige Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
What would your initial thought be if you uncovered a run-down Oldsmobile, or a Hudson, in a dusty old barn? Would you think “piece of junk” or “diamond in the rough”? Would you see potential or just a bottomless money pit? If you have the right mind- and skillset, any derelict car can be turned […]
Hodinkee
Our watch-related movie of the week travels back to 1979 – when the future meant needing two digital watches strapped together (obviously).
Teddy Baldassarre
Luminous material on watch dials - referred to in shorthand as “lume” by both industry insiders and avid enthusiasts - is an element taken for granted nowadays. It can be said without hyperbole that a watch dial without lume is a stylistic outlier in this modern era, but this wasn’t always the case. Discerning the time in the dark presented a major problem for watchmakers in the early days before the widespread use of electricity in homes, and at first the only solution that could be offered was an audible rather than visual one: watches that chimed the time on demand, like minute repeaters and sonneries. Only a handful of wealthy individuals could afford these highly complicated timepieces, however, so a more widely accessible technology was needed as wristwatches spread to the general populace. Around the dawn of the 20th Century, watchmakers turned their attention to making watch dials that could be read in the dark, paving the way for the luminous materials that are still used commonly today. The road to perfecting the technology, however, would not be easy, and at times would even be dangerous. Radium The first material applied to watch dials for nighttime luminescence was a paint made from radium with zinc sulfide, which, thanks to radium’s half-life of 1,600 years, offered a long-lasting glow during that period before dimming - the catch being that radium, as its name implies, is radioactive. One of its earliest uses can be traced to a pioneer of devel...
Worn & Wound
Assouline is known as a brand that reflects the finer things in life. As a standard-bearer of fine art, culture, and lifestyle, Assouline has solidified its reputation as a premier publisher synonymous with sophistication. Wherever the haute monde is, Assouline is sure to follow with one of their well-designed, beautifully curated coffee table books. Their latest edition, Rolex: The Impossible Collection, 2nd Edition is an especially exciting release for the horologically-inclined, focusing on the one-hundred watches that define the brand’s legacy and rich history. Within the pages of The Impossible Collection, readers will get a chance to explore the various ways in which Rolex has entered the cultural consciousness. From the first wristwatch dating to the early 1900s and the first Oyster Perpetual from 1931, to an Explorer worn during Sir Edmund Hillary’s expedition to the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 and the Submariner worn by actor George Lazenby in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, this book acts as a reflection of a brand which has stood at the cross-section of adventure, style, and sportsmanship. For the casual collector to the fanatics among us, Assouline’s attention to detail and design in The Impossible Collection will inspire readers while making a handsome companion for your library. Every page is carefully designed to elevate the reading experience, while leaving the page clean and uncluttered, so every watch has room to shine. Ro...
Fratello
Last year, Aquastar released a modern interpretation of one of its earliest watches, the Model 60. The no-nonsense black dial paired with a utile skin-diver case made it an instant hit. Now a new dial color joins the fray. The limited-production Greenwich Edition has a dark green dial that works well with the design. It […] Visit Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Our friends at Revolution have launched their second limited edition collaboration with Sinn, following up on 2019’s 155 Bundeswehr “Dark Star,” a collaborative effort with both The Rake and Revolution publications. Here we have another 155, this time in a notably darker, and tougher configuration, but still paying tribute to the very roots of the German watch brand. The 155 chronograph, for many Sinn collectors, represents the true beginnings of the brand, and this release captures that spirit while adding some of the contemporary twists you’d expect from a collaboration partner like Revolution. It’s all very enthusiast focused, and should really speak to hardcore Sinn fans. Before we get into the details on the new release, an introduction to the 155 is probably in order to fully contextualize the limited edition. Beginning in 1967, the 155 Bundeswehr chronograph was made exclusively for the West German Federal Defense Force. Beginning in the 1980s, Helmut Sinn began selling issued Bundeswehr watches that had been decommissioned under his own brand name. This practice helped to bolster Sinn’s reputation in watch communities that care about military provenance, tool watch history, and classic design, and laid the groundwork for what Sinn would come to represent to many, makers of no-nonsense, practical tools with true military bona fides. The 155 itself is a ruthlessly simple affair, with a two register chronograph layout and bi-directional 60 minute bezel d...
Hodinkee
Straight from the artistic mind of Creative Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the second set of limited edition sketch pieces focuses on the what drives the Octo Finissimo.
Fratello
Even for us watch journalists, it’s sometimes hard to keep up with all the new releases out there. That’s why it’s nice that brands sometimes invite us over to take a look at their new stuff instead of simply sending press releases. Last Monday, for example, the entry-level brands of the Swatch group invited us […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 In A New 40mm Size to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Whether you’re thinking of Titanic or the majestic vista of Mont Blanc, there is no denying that glaciers have long held the fascination of the human psyche. In a way, their calming, serene presence belies the danger that can exist on one of these masses of ice – and, in a way, this juxtaposition is a perfect jumping-off point for a watch design. Like, for instance, what Baltic has done with their Hermétique Glacier collection. Coming in both a White and Black reference, the Hermétique Glacier is both meticulously crafted and finely designed to elegantly represent the essence of les glaciers. Starting with the dial, both the White and Black versions draw inspiration from the ethereal beauty of glaciers to create a stamped pattern that emulates the various textures of a glacier’s surface. Super-Luminova® BGW9-coated hour appliques and “syringe” hands ensure effortless readability, even amidst dimly lit environments. Ostensibly a field watch, Baltic reinforces the notion of “form and function” when combining a beautifully designed watch with its 150-meter water resistance, double-domed sapphire crystal, and use of 316L stainless steel for the case. Despite its rugged capabilities, the Hermétique Glacier maintains an elegant profile, with the case measuring a mere 10.8mm in thickness and clocking in at 37mm. The watch runs on a calibre 9039 movement, a self-winding movement with a 42-hour power reserve developed by the Japanese manufacturer Miyota. Various s...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
While I'm not one to usually find myself swooning over a new dress watch, I have to call out a nice release when I see it. The same thing happened when Grand Seiko announced the new SBGX355 ... drool. But now we're seeing something cool in a lower price tier from Seiko: the new Seiko Presage Classic series. I usually ignore the Presage collection outright (all that comes to mind are the Cocktail Time watches, which I can't stand). However, with these new Presage models, we see an interesting incorporation of Japanese culture into the design, and I can get behind it.
Deployant
Breguet continues its streak of magnificent releases in their Reine de Naples collection with a new version. Now in a fresh mint green shade.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has just reopened its longstanding boutique in the Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino resort in Singapore, after a renovation that gave the store a wall-to-wall makeover. Operated in partnership with Cortina Watch, a family-owned retailer that’s one of the brand’s biggest partners, the boutique features the brand’s latest store aesthetic that nonetheless remains recognisable with it use of dark and pale woods along with brass. Located in a choice location near the entrance to the gaming floor, the boutique covers 262 sq m, or over 2,800 sq ft. As is increasingly the practice for watch stores, the space is not just a showroom to display watches, but also includes an exhibit on Patek Philippe’s history as well as a lounge area with a bar. An enduring partnership One of Southeast Asia’s biggest retailers, Cortina became a Patek Philippe retailer in 1972. Twenty-twenty tw0 marked Cortina’s 50th year with Patek Philippe, an occasion marked by the Calatrava ref. 5057G, one of the rare instances the Geneva brand created a reference specifically for a retailer. Cortina established the first Patek Philippe boutique in Singapore in 2010, with the MBS story opening a year later. The retailer now operates more than half a dozen Patek Philippe boutiques in Asia, including stores in Hong Kong and Taiwan. The Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5057G made for Cortina’s 50th anniversary in 2022 The MBS boutique is the first in Singapore to feature the brand’s latest...
Hodinkee
In white gold, made in 200 pieces, and with a beautiful "Crystal Sky" dial, this watch nods to the past and weighs gentle on my mind.
As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...
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