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Stella Dial Rolex

1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.

Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T Worn & Wound
Doxa Releases their Second Clive Jul 17, 2024

Doxa Releases their Second Clive Cussler Themed SUB 300T

Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Explorer Vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Fratello
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Jul 7, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Explorer Vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

The Rolex Explorer, with its stainless steel Oyster case, glossy black dial, and mix of applied indexes and numerals, is one of the most iconic sports watches out there. Recently, Omega launched a new version of its Seamaster Aqua Terra, which, in terms of design, comes quite close to the iconic Explorer. It has a […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Explorer Vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra to read the full article.

Introducing: The Baltic MR Roulette - Using Textures To Create A Perception Of Depth Fratello
Baltic MR Roulette - Using Jul 4, 2024

Introducing: The Baltic MR Roulette - Using Textures To Create A Perception Of Depth

Baltic, the uncrowned king of affordable vintage-inspired watches, has launched a new version of its dressy MR - the MR Roulette. It has the same dial layout as the previous version, which means the off-center sub-dial is still there. Of course, it’s also still powered by a very elegant-looking micro-rotor movement on which the collection’s […] Visit Introducing: The Baltic MR Roulette - Using Textures To Create A Perception Of Depth to read the full article.

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment SJX Watches
Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets Jul 3, 2024

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment

Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....

Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials Fratello
Jul 3, 2024

Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials

At the end of last year, we had three Sartory Billard flying tourbillons in the office. I remember how impressed I was with those watches. Seeing them in person was also a good showcase of the bespoke work that Sartory Billard has become known for. The brand’s latest release is another interesting display of traditional […] Visit Introducing: Two New Sartory Billard SB07 Models With Striking Maki-e Dials to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris Jul 1, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris

The Summer Olympics will kick off in Paris in less than a month. Zenith has created the Defy Skyline Édition Paris to help celebrate the occasion. It uses a different style of dial, which may leave potential buyers wishing that this limited edition watch wasn’t only offered in France. Omega is the first brand that […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Skyline Édition Paris to read the full article.

Hands-On Video Review: The Archimede Pilot 39 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jul 1, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: The Archimede Pilot 39

The Type A dial, Flieger-style pilot's watch has been something I've coveted since diving deep into the watch collecting hobby. If I'm not dreaming about some of the prohibitively priced stuff out there, I often think of some of the best affordable options if I were to make this kind of addition to the collection. A few names come to mind, but I've had a soft spot for Archimede since meeting them in San Francisco one year and photographing one of the coolest Archimede watches ever. As the in-house watch brand of the Ickler case company in Germany, Archimede produces some of the most well-crafted and affordable timepieces in this space while remaining family-owned. Today, we're looking at the Archimede Pilot 39, one of their most popular models, and a watch that I'm sad to say goodbye to after experiencing it on loan from Archimede.

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Unveils Jun 28, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Unveils Its Most Complicated Streamliner to Date

The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F;. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT WatchAdvice
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT Jun 25, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Seiko Presage Cocktail Time GMT

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time has been a hit for the brand, and for under A$1,000, the watch packs a punch! What We Love The gradient Champagne dial with 3D sunburst effect The size is pretty much perfect for most wrist sizes The overall vintage style that epitomises the “cocktail” time theme What We Don’t Crystal is not sapphire by Hardlex Glass Has a minimal power reserve for a watch that may not be worn everyday The movement could be better finished as it is on display Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 The Seiko Presage collection is one of those collections that has something for everyone at varying price points. Everything from more sporty full steel models to the dressier variants with beautiful dials and leather straps. Whichever way you look at them, both Seiko and the Presage have a firm place in the market, and rightfully so. Having had some hands-on experience with last year’s Australasian Limited Edition Lark Cocktail Time, and attending the showcase of this piece in Brisbane at Vintage Watch Co, I can see why these pieces have become so popular with watch enthusiasts and the general public alike. So how does the new Seiko Presage Cocktail time that was released earlier this month stack up? First Impressions With three model variants being released – an ice blue dial on steel, smokey brown on leather, and a champagne dial on a brown leather strap, it’s clear that Seiko is thinking a...

First Look – The Amazing Value-for-Money Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL07 & SRPL09 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL07 & Jun 21, 2024

First Look – The Amazing Value-for-Money Seiko Presage Style60s SRPL07 & SRPL09

The Seiko Presage Style60’s collection is both popular, growing fast and a nice throwback to a bygone decade (yes, the 1960s, obviously). The latest pair of watches, ref. SRPL07 and SRPL09, don’t reinvent the wheel, but add classy touches with a slightly smaller case, a very nice new bracelet and a fixed bezel. Dial colours […]

First Look – The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra with new Glossy Black Dials Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Jun 21, 2024

First Look – The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra with new Glossy Black Dials

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra has carved out a unique spot in the Seamaster family as a stylish, versatile, and durable everyday watch, perfect for both land and sea. While not classified as a professional dive watch, it offers a comfortable 150m water resistance (aqua), classic aesthetics, and a precise movement that seamlessly transitions from […]

New Colours and Cases for the Singer Reimagined 1969 SJX Watches
Jun 17, 2024

New Colours and Cases for the Singer Reimagined 1969

Singer Reimagined is dropping new variants of the 1969 Chronograph and 1969 Timer that maintain the same design as the originals from last year, but with the option of a new case material, bronze, as well as new dial colours. The bronze models get a matte green dial, while the steel variants have a sun-ray, silver-toned dial. Initial thoughts An outlier amongst watch brands, Singer Reimagined is actually the sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, one of the most prominent rebuilders of vintage Porsches. So rather than the usual watch brand making a car-inspired watch, it is a carmaker making a watch. The 1969 Timer The unusual chronograph display, retro cushion-shaped case, and racetrack-inspired bracelet all have clear automotive inspiration and are fairly unique in themselves, but for watch enthusiasts the key selling point will be the Agenhor movements (both are equipped with variants of the same base calibre). The movement is especially notable for its ingenious construction, where amongst other innovations the rotor is placed underneath the dial to provide an unobstructed view of the moving parts. The 1969 Chronograph movement Priced at CHF31,500 and CHF53,500 respectively, the 1969 Timer and the 1969 Chronograph aren’t inexpensive. While the 1969 Timer is relatively simple as a one-minute timer and consequently pricey, the chronograph is priced fairly given the unique nature of the movement. New variations of existing lineups The Singer Reimagined 1969 models share...

Hands-On With Two New Seiko Astron Limited Editions With Starry Light Blue Dials Fratello
Seiko Astron Limited Editions Jun 4, 2024

Hands-On With Two New Seiko Astron Limited Editions With Starry Light Blue Dials

Maybe it’s because the Seiko Astron is the world’s first GPS solar watch that I have a weak spot for it. From the moment the very first ginormous 47mm version came out, I was sold on the idea of having a watch that connects to the GPS network and gets all its necessary energy from […] Visit Hands-On With Two New Seiko Astron Limited Editions With Starry Light Blue Dials to read the full article.

Introducing – TAG Heuer Updates The Aquaracer Professional 300 Date & GMT with new Dials, Cases and Movements Monochrome
TAG Heuer Updates Jun 3, 2024

Introducing – TAG Heuer Updates The Aquaracer Professional 300 Date & GMT with new Dials, Cases and Movements

TAG Heuer is renowned for its automotive heritage and racing chronographs, but the brand also boasts a strong nautical and water-sport legacy, particularly with its Aquaracer dive watch collection. Introduced in 2004/2005 as the direct successor to the 2000 series, the Aquaracer line has become a cornerstone in TAG Heuer’s portfolio. The collection was fully […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials Fratello
Hamilton last weekend during May 31, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we take a step away from the pre-owned watches we have been covering lately. Earlier this week, IWC announced the first fully luminous ceramic watch. Watch spotters saw it on the wrist of Formula 1 driver and IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton last weekend during the Monaco Grand Prix. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Watches With Full-Lume Dials to read the full article.

The Petrolhead Corner – Morgan and Pininfarina are Ready for Leasurely Cruises with the Stellar Midsummer Monochrome
May 25, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner – Morgan and Pininfarina are Ready for Leasurely Cruises with the Stellar Midsummer

Both Morgan and Pininfarina are household names when it comes to car design. The British firm is known for its hand-built retro-styled roadsters and three-wheeled playthings, while the Italian studio is arguably one of the best in the business of designing show-stopping and supremely elegant cars. Both share over 200 years of coachbuilding history and […]

Kollokium Returns with the Projekt 01 Variant “B” SJX Watches
May 17, 2024

Kollokium Returns with the Projekt 01 Variant “B”

A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds SJX Watches
Seiko 5 May 16, 2024

Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds

A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals.  Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design.  The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold, Now With Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue Dials Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold May 7, 2024

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold, Now With Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue Dials

One of the earliest models in the so-called luxury sports watch category, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, was released in 1975 and powered by a quartz movement. In 1984, mechanical movements found their way into this original barrel-shaped watch, and this has become the norm since the return of the watch in 2016. Now an established collection […]

A Technical Perspective – Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns Monochrome
May 3, 2024

A Technical Perspective – Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns

Known under the French name Guillochage, engine turning consists of adorning wood or metal with intertwined lines. It is an engraving technique that originated over five centuries ago. Initially, it was applied to soft materials such as wood and ivory before being adapted to metals, particularly for the craft of goldsmiths and silversmiths. Allegedly first […]

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref Apr 30, 2024

Up Close: Patek Philippe Cloisonné World Time Ref. 605 HU DE “World Map”

One of the highlights this coming spring auction season in Geneva is prime example of a rare watch at Antiquorum. Consigned by the family of the original owner, the Patek Philippe World Time Cloisonné “World” ref. 605 HU DE in pink gold is both in fine condition and boasting a possibly unique combination of features, namely a pink gold case, a “world” motif cloisonné dial in unusual colours, and early “observatory” style hands. Produced for some three decades from about 1937 to the 1950s, the ref. 605 HU (short for heure universelles, or “universal time”) is a quintessential Louis Cottier-type world time; its wristwatch counterpart was the ref. 2523 HU. Just over 80 were made over the production run, with about two-thirds in yellow gold and the rest in pink gold. They were made by Louis Cottier in his Geneva workshop in an artisanal manner, explaining the variances across examples. Most were equipped with conventional metal dials, including rare examples in pink or black, but from the 1940s onwards, Patek Philippe began selling the ref. 605 HU with cloisonné enamel dials. Less than 20 were made with cloisonné dials, most depicting map motifs of some sort. A handful, maybe just two, featured figurative dials, including the ref. 605 HU in the Patek Philippe Museum with the Greek sea god Neptune on the dial (that Antiquorum sold in 1989). This example is rare for having a map of the entire world – only two others are known – as well as being in pink go...

Cédric Johner Reimagines the Louis Erard Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Independent watchmaker Apr 25, 2024

Cédric Johner Reimagines the Louis Erard Le Régulateur

Independent watchmaker Cédric Johner has joined forces with Louis Erard in a collaborative effort that has given birth to the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Cédric Johner. This regulator-style watch pays homage to Mr Johner’s signature Abyss case with its distinctive, hexagonal dial opening. And unlike other collaboration editions that were mostly design exercises, Mr Johner himself worked on each of these watches by decorating every rotor with his signature bead motif. Initial thoughts  In contrast to the whimsical and striking Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein collaborations, the latest Le Régulateur has a more classical design but still manages to be different with its octagonal dial and crystal. Even though it is a round watch case, it doesn’t really seem so as a result of the crystal. And it is a homage to Mr Johner’s work in more ways than just aesthetics, as Mr Johner himself offered an Abyss regulator model back in the day. Interestingly, the restyled case arguably works better with the relatively chunky proportions of the Le Régulateur case, the dimensions of which also evokes the original Abyss that was also a solidly built shape. Reasonably priced at CHF4,000 (on par with last year’s Chaykin Time-Eater), this will appeal to collectors seeking more classical look while still having a little of the unique character of an independent watchmaker. Cédric Johner A more traditional-styled regulator A once successful watchmaker who then lost his brand...