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Flying Tourbillon

Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
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Tourbillon

Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

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Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jan 7, 2022

Up Close: Jacob & Co. Opera Godfather Minute Repeater

Most famous for its jewelled timepieces and the Astronomia, Jacob & Co. specialises in over the top watches. One of its latest is the Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. Inspired by the film of the same name, it’s a massive watch in the brand’s typical style of a sapphire cake dome containing a 758-component movement. While The Godfather branding on the dial is gaudy, the mechanics of the watch are surprisingly unusual and impressively complex. The Godfather repeater can chime the time with the minute repeating function and also play The Godfather theme on the miniature two-cylinder musical box within the case (see the video just below). That makes it a two-train grand complication at heart: one barrel and going train drives the triple-axis tourbillon and time display – which is linked to the repeating mechanism – while the second barrel and train power the music box. Initial thoughts Jacob & Co. specialises in loud watches, so everything has to be judged by that benchmark. The Twin Turbo Furious, for example, is one of the tamer complications the brand offers. The Godfather repeater fits right into that repertoire. It’s enormous – almost 50 mm wide and over 20 mm high – so it scores low on wearability. But it scores high on making a state on the wrist, in both aesthetics and function, which is unquestionably the point of the whole exercise. The button that activates the music box, with the slide for the repeater just below it That said, the large size is not...

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Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Jan 4, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

Vacheron Constantin is starting the year in a big way with the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A double-faced grand complication, the Bacchus is part of the brand’s annual collection of one-of-a-kind timepieces. The Bacchus ranks amongst the most complex watches produced by Vacheron Constantin, thanks to the cal. 2755 GC16 that’s made up of over 800 parts. Though the Geneva watchmaker has used variations of the same calibre in past watches, the Bacchus is unusual even amongst its siblings because of its case decoration, which includes both hand engraving and gem setting, forming a grapevine motif in relief on both sides of the case. The star chart display on the reverse of the Bacchus Initial thoughts The Bacchus is the sort of grand complication that makes a statement, belonging in the same category of watch as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. It’s extremely large, very complex, and impossible to miss on the wrist. Though a one-off creation, the Bacchus is not the first two-faced grand complication from Vacheron Constantin. In fact, several past models, notably the Phoenix of 2018, have contained variations of the same calibre found in the Bacchus. But the Bacchus has a unique decoration, in fact one of the most elaborate to date. The minute repeater is activated by turning the bezel, leaving the case free of a traditional slide Vacheron Constantin’s grand complications are frequently engraved, but Bacchus seems to be the first – or at least...

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Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst SJX Watches
Casio n Inaugurated Dec 21, 2021

Highlights: A. Lange & Söhne Exceptional Masterpieces of Handwerkskunst

An exhibition dedicated to limited-edition watches from A. Lange & Söhne, Exceptional Masterpieces recently concluded after a five-day run in Singapore. The event was fully subscribed every day it was open, but attendance was limited due to health regulations. Amongst the watches on show were all the Handwerkskunst limited editions. German for “craftsmanship”, handwerkskunst is an apt label for the series, which is made up of watches featuring artisanal decoration executed by hand, most often engraving but also enamelling on occasion. Inaugurated a decade ago, the series is now a family of seven watches, but each model was limited to no more than 30 pieces, which means the entire series totals less than 200 watches, making them amongst the rarest of Lange watches. So for anyone who missed out on the exhibition, here’s a look at five of our favourite Handwerkskunst editions. (For an in-depth look at each of the Handwerkskunst watches, see our definitive guide to the series published in 2020.) 2012 – Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst (ref. 140.048) The second of the series, the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst very much stuck to the formula set established by opening act, the Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite Handwerkskunst. While the mechanics remained almost identical, the decoration an upgraded over the standard version with elaborate engraving on both the front and back, but executed in a restrained manner that embodies the low-key style of the German watchmaker. Preci...

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Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Dec 20, 2021

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal

Unquestionably the preeminent maker of exotic – and ultra-luxury – sports watches, Richard Mille has just taken the covers off a simple but intriguing watch, the RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Like earlier watches made for the Spanish tennis player, the RM 35-03 incorporates technical features to cater to the intense nature of the game – at least the way Mr Nadal plays tennis. And in this instance it’s a rotor with variable winding modes. As a result, winding can be halted during a game, preventing excess wear on the winding mechanism. Initial thoughts The RM 35-03 is a time-only watch – it lacks a tourbillon unlike the better-known RM 27 Nadal  – but it has all the qualities that makes it a Richard Mille, most notably the lightweight, tonneau-shaped case in brightly coloured carbon composite along with a skeletonised dial. It’s a look that screams Richard Mille, and also a signifier of wealth and status, since the watch is hard to get and also extremely expensive for a time-only. But fortunately the RM 35 does possess technical qualities that make it interesting despite being a “hype” watch. This version has the front and back case plates in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT, with a case middle in Carbon TPT A second variant with the entire case in Quartz TPT The highlight of the RM 35-03 is the patented, “butterfly” rotor, which is essentially comprised of two halves that can be rearranged – thanks to a smartly simple mechanism – in order to v...

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Exhibition: The Franck Muller Museum in Singapore SJX Watches
Casio n Dec 13, 2021

Exhibition: The Franck Muller Museum in Singapore

Founded in 1992 by the eponymous watchmaker, Franck Muller celebrates its 30th anniversary next year. And just in time for the occasion, the brand has transformed its flagship boutique in Singapore into a pop-up museum. The Franck Muller Museum – A Horological Journey is now open until March 20, 2022. The exhibits include not just the brand’s notable historical timepieces watches  but even Mr Muller’s own watchmaking bench from Franck Muller Watchland in Geneva (pictured above). The exhibition is taking place at the brand’s boutique in Wisma Atria A story of success Once a struggling independent watchmaker – he was one of the earliest AHCI members in fact – Franck Muller founded a brand that is global. Best known for its tonneau-shaped Cintree Curves case and imaginative complications like Crazy Hours and Master Banker, Franck Muller has a string of “World Premieres” to its name. They refer to the never-seen-before complications or combinations of complications that the brand unveiled almost every year from its founding. Amongst the World Premieres was the first triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch in 2004 and then in 2007 the Aeternitas Mega, a monumental watch that was the most complicated wristwatch ever at the time of its launch. A World Premiere Grand Complication from the late 1990s The more recent Grand Central Tourbillon in the Cintree Curvex case Because of its often over the top style, the brand is sometimes underrated by watch enthusiasts, despite...

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Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711/1A-018 made Dec 7, 2021

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction

While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...

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MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches

There are certain mechanisms that bring a sense of child-like wonder to the eyes of a watch collector. There is the twisting and turning of a tourbillon. The snap back of a retrograde. And today I present you with a brand making use of a third, with a bit of fun thrown in for good … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Minions Watch SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 27, 2021

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Minions Watch

Konstantin Chaykin has iterated his bestselling Wristmon Joker frequently, installing new faces and complications  the “rolling eye” time display, including the sci-fi Martian Tourbillon that tells the time and date on Mars. Now he takes inspiration from Minions, a spin-off from the Despicable Me animated film franchise. The Minions Watch recreates the diminutive yellow characters who are the henchmen of Gru, the supervillain protagonist of the movies. While it sticks to the same formula, the Minions Watch is slightly more compact than its predecessors, making it more wearable. Initial thoughts All of Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watches are appealing because of their whimsical mechanics. Though Mr Chaykin has done a good number of variants, the Minions Watch stands out for being inspired by pop culture, which gives his signature watch a new dimension, at least relative to contemporary life. That said, Minions might not have the longevity of Mickey Mouse or other iconic animated films, which might limit the long-term appeal of this watch. That said, the Minions Watch costs about the same as the earlier Joker models, while also being more wearable, making it an appealing proposition on its own. A familiar face The Minions Watch sticks to the same formula as past Wristmon Joker models: the dial has a “rolling eye” display with the left eye indicating the hours and the right eye, the minutes. Just below is the moon phase display contained within the Minion’s mo...

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Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2 SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Nov 21, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S2

Greubel Forsey’s house style is perhaps best described as contemporary, complicated, and often oversized, which meant some of its watches have a sporty vibe, even if they are not sports watches. The brand only unveiled its first true sports watch – with a 100 m water-resistance rating – two years ago and it was a world time plus tourbillon. The Swiss watchmaker quickly followed up with the Balancier S, a sports watch sans complications. And that has evolved into the Balancier S2, perhaps the brand’s ultimate time-only sports watch. It’s been further streamlined and pared back – and finally gets a matching bracelet in titanium for the integrated-bracelet look that’s now de rigueur for high-end sports watches. Initial thoughts I have always found Greubel Forsey’s watches appealing, despite the astronomical prices (which are justified, to a degree, by the quality), simply because they are original, modern, and extremely well made. But some looked more sporty than they actually were, so all the better that the brand now offers a bona fide sports watch, so that the functionality matches the aesthetic. By that measure the Balancier S2 ticks many boxes. It is functionally simple so the watch is (relatively) thin, and it’s made more wearable with a lightweight titanium case that has a curved back, and the equally lightweight bracelet. One feature that sets the Balancier S2 apart from the original Balancier S is the cleaner look, which works better with it being ...

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Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 21, 2021

Exhibition: A. Lange & Söhne ‘Exceptional Masterpieces’ in Singapore

After a pandemic-induced hiatus, A. Lange & Söhne is staging its first exhibition in Singapore since 2019. Taking place at the National Gallery Singapore, a historical building that was once the country’s supreme court, Exceptional Masterpieces happens from December 1-5, with public entry starting on December 3 (though registration is required). “This exhibition, as well as the rare and special watches on display, will allow those who might not know us well to have a better understanding of the brand,” explains Charles Langlois, Managing Director for South East Asia and Australia. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst 1815 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Alongside displays explaining many of the artisanal techniques employed by the brand to decorate and embellish its watches, the exhibition includes a few 19th century Lange pocket watches that illustrate the origins of the brand. But the highlight for most enthusiasts will be the 30 limited edition Lange wristwatches on show. Segmented into three themes – Honey Gold, Lumen, and Handwerkskunst – the wristwatch display is a stellar line up of some of the most desirable Lange wristwatches. The Tourbograph and 1815 Moon Phase from the 165th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange” set The Tourbograph prototype with an undecorated movement Almost every model within each series will be on display, including the 175th anniversary Honey Gold trio launched last year and the Richard Lange Tourbillon “Pour Le Merite” Handwerksu...

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A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 19, 2021

A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London

Soon to open in London and then in other countries in 2022, the OAK Collection is perhaps the first time a private collector is staging an exhibition that’s open to the public. Taking place at the Design Museum with free entry, the OAK Collection exhibition is made up of just the highlights from the owner’s collection, but already numbers over 160 watches. [Edit December 1, 2021: The exhibition in London has been postponed to spring 2022.] Organised into thematic sections, the OAK Collection – short for “one of a kind” – is dominated by Patek Philippe. Most of the watchmaker’s most important historical timepieces are represented in the collection, including a ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial, as well as exceptionally rare variants of the refs. 1518 and 2499. And the collection naturally includes modern-day, special-order Patek Philippe watches commissioned by the owner. One of the exhibition’s highlights is the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial that also takes centre stage on the event poster And the collection includes five pocket watches that once belonged to Henry Graves Jr, the American banker who was one of Patek Philippe’s most important clients in the first half of the 20th century. Outside of the Patek Philippe Museum, the OAK Collection contains the largest number of watches that once belonged to Graves. Amongst the former Graves watches in the OAK Collection is the 1935 observatory tourbillon pocket watch ...

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EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners

Editor’s Note: When we originally ran this story, there was a flurry of male athletes spotted wearing the AP Royal Oak Concept Black Panther Flying Tourbillon. Recently, however, a very notable powerhouse athlete has entered the mix. Her message: move over boys, cause this G.O.A.T rocks it just like the best of ‘em… When the … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Look which G.O.A.T just joined the sports star ranks of AP Black Panther owners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Oct 31, 2021

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...

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Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Oct 21, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces the Old School by Luca Soprana

Following a slew of affordable, vintage-inspired watches, with several made by Habring2, Massena Lab has moved decidedly upmarket with the Old School. The time-only wristwatch retains a typical of the American watch-design studio – once again vintage inspired with a sector-like dial – but boasts a significantly more refined finishing. The model name is a play on words – a reference to its classical design but also the watch is meant to evoke a montre d’école, or “school watch” in English, the graduation project of a watchmaking student. Despite the academic inspiration, the Old School is the work of an experienced watchmaker, Luca Soprana, who cofounded Ateliers 7h38, the complication workshop best known for the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Tourbillon. Initial thoughts Massena Lab founder William Rohr is an industry veteran – amongst other things he’s been managing director of Antiquorum Switzerland and consultant to Bonhams – who has cultivated a sharp eye for design an details. Mr Rohr also has a finger on the current pulse of watch collecting, and the Old School unsurprisingly encapsulates what many enthusiasts currently desire. The design and movement feature traditional elements that are popular now. It’s not meant to be an intriguing or creative product – it is old school after all – but instead a simple watch executed well. One element that illustrates Mr Massena’s keen eye is the dial. The simple design has just enough flair to make it attrac...

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Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, And Urwerk Unique Pieces On Auction (Video) Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe H Moser & Cie Oct 20, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, And Urwerk Unique Pieces On Auction (Video)

Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!

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Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder Time+Tide
Oct 17, 2021

Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away… sorry, that’s the Star Wars nerd in me. If you search your feelings and feel the midichlorians around you, well, perhaps, you are looking for something Star Wars-related for your watch collection. Recently Star Wars and Kross Studio released a limited edition Death Star-inspired tourbillon … ContinuedThe post Let your watch turn to the dark side with the Kross Studio x Star Wars TIE Advanced x1 Watch Winder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Quick takes: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm Deployant
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm Oct 9, 2021

Quick takes: new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm

The new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Eon Gold 42mm is a nice addition to the Excalibur line, in particular for its more elegant case size. Without compromising its sporty look, the skeletonized tourbillon timepiece provides an excellent alternative to classic watches, a segment of casual high luxury watches that are on an incline. The watch is priced at S$217,000 and limited to 88 pieces.

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In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette SJX Watches
Ferdinand Berthoud Oct 6, 2021

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette

Having launched one of the best watches of 2020 with the spectacularly decorated Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) returned to its very first model this year, remaking the FB 1 by bestowing upon it an open-worked movement accompanied by more contemporary styling. The result is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS – short for Régulateur Squelette, or “regulator skeleton”, which tidily sums up the time display format as well as the movement. Like the original FB 1, the new model has both a tourbillon as well as a chain and fusée. Notably, the FB RS is actually two models but equipped with the same movement, the FB-T.FC-RS. One is an octagonal case in sandblasted steel, the decidedly modern FB 1RS.6, while the other is the more conventional FB 2RS.2 in a round case of polished 18k rose gold. The FB-T.FC-RS While the two versions are quite different in terms of style, both share a similarly large diameter – resulting from the calibre within that boasts exemplary construction and finishing. The FB 1RS.6 in steel The FB 2RS.2 in gold Initial thoughts FB’s watches are best described as big and chunky – too big mostly – with equipped with exceptional movements. And the models with a tourbillon are especially big. Because of the their size, FB tourbillons tended to have a wide, empty expanse on the dial (which was dressed up with italic script in recent models). In contrast, the FB RS does away with all that empty real estate by uncovering the mechanics b...

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Vacheron Constantin Realises a Connoisseur’s Exquisite Vision SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Realises Sep 27, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Realises a Connoisseur’s Exquisite Vision

Eight years in the making, the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Westminster Sonnerie – Tribute to Johannes Vermeer is a masterpiece in the truest sense of the word. Reflecting the owner’s taste that is inclined towards the subtle, elegant, and artisanal, the watch is seemingly simple on the front, yet intricately decorated on its circumference and immensely complicated within. But the true art of the watch sits on the hinged case back, which bears a magnificent miniature enamel painting by Anita Porchet that reproduces Vermeer’s ethereal Girl with a Pearl Earring. The idea for this uber pocket watch was first mooted by the owner in 2012, before being formally commissioned in 2013 during the Watches & Wonders fair in Hong Kong. Asked about his motivation in commissioning the watch – and waiting nearly a decade – the owner says, “I wanted to have a watch made, cost-and-time-no-object, that incorporated the ultimate in art – miniature enamel by the greatest practicing enameller – with the most difficult and sublime complication, the true Westminster sonnerie – and that alone – not counting the tourbillon escapement, which to me isn’t a complication.” “No such watch existed prior in the history of watchmaking,” he adds, “The watch came out more magnificent and monumental than I had imagined.” And that pretty much sums up the Vermeer pocket watch, which is unquestionably one of the greatest creations ever to emerge from Les Cabinotiers, a wo...

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One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin SJX Watches
Glashütte Original has Sep 27, 2021

One Hundred and Eighty Days with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin

A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Saxonia Thin 37 at SIHH 2016 as the entry-level model in its collection. But “entry level” is relative at Lange, a brand that famously applies the same rigorous standards of production and finishing to all its watches, from the Saxonia Thin to the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar that retails for more than US$300,000. For the purpose of this review, I will put this reputation to the test by examining each element of the watch in detail, and share my impressions of the ownership experience. Glashüttenomics Though owned by Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont – which owns over two dozen brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai – Lange remains a boutique outfit with an annual output of about 4,500 watches, and a maximum production capacity of about 5,500 watches. This is a fraction of competitors like Audemars Piguet at about 45,000 watches per year, and Patek Philippe, where the figure is over 60,000. While production volume is small, Lange is the largest employer in Glashütte, a small town with a population of about 8,000. Lange employs about 600 people at its Glashütte campus, though some commute in from the surrounding region, including the city of Dresden. This headcount is primarily devoted to watchmaking, since Lange relocated its marketing department to Berlin in 2017. For comparison, Glashütte Original has a similar number of employees in Glashütte, while producing about 13,000 watches per year, or about three ti...

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Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe has swiftly become one Sep 25, 2021

Highlights: F. P. Journe at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

F.P. Journe has swiftly become one of the most desirable independent watch brands, resulting in an ever growing selection on offer at auction. Perhaps the biggest single offering to date comes by way of Sotheby’s, which has amassed a 13-piece lineup of F.P. Journe watches for its upcoming Important Watches sale that takes place in Hong Kong on October 13, 2021. We round up eight of the most notable, a selection that naturally includes a Tourbillon Souverain “Souscription”, as well as several limited editions, ranging from Ruthenium to a Tokyo-boutique special. The full catalogue and registration to bid are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2085: Octa Réserve de Marche with brass movement Originally the entry-level model for the brand, the Octa Réserve de Marche is today a stealth watch of sorts since it is still a simple watch, but an unusually valuable one. Launched in 2001, the Octa Réserve was part of the original trio of watches launched by Francois-Paul Journe, coming after the tourbillon and Resonance. Despite being the brand’s entry-level wristwatch at the time, it still boasted a proprietary movement with an impressive five-day power reserve, though the running time was originally envision was eight days, hence the “Octa” moniker. The cal. 1300 developed for the Octa Réserve would then go on to be the base movement for the entire Octa collection. The best part of the Octa Reserve is its asymmetric dial. Showing the time, date and power reserve, the d...

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