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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki May 19, 2021

Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel

Different professions have their own specific demands when it comes to the attributes of a watch. A professional diver, for example, needs a hydrogen-release valve, while a doctor could benefit from a pulsometer. But what about a DJ? This question popped up last year when I was talking to Carl Cox, the British superstar DJ … ContinuedThe post Beyond the rave: the Bulgari Aluminium Steve Aoki is the latest watch inspired by dance music alongside Zenith & Chanel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier SJX Watches
Rolex World Service May 18, 2021

A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier

Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...

Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 3450J Despite May 15, 2021

Behind The Lens: Vintage Patek Philippe Reference 3450J

Despite the virus restrictions, GaryG has managed to venture out from time to time for brief, top-secret rendezvous in parking lots and on park benches to receive and return the generous loans of friends’ watches to photograph. Recently, he had the chance to shoot a true classic: a second-series Reference 3450J perpetual calendar made by Patek Philippe, which he shares with us here.

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Tank – Reprise May 15, 2021

What’s It Like To Get Your Grail Watch? The Story Of My Louis Cartier Tank – Reprise

A grail watch can be pretty much anything. But one thing a grail watch always is is personal. Very personal. Martin Green was introduced to his personal grail watch by a close friend who had recently treated himself to a new watch: a pre-Collection Privée Cartier Paris Louis Cartier Tank in platinum. Here's the story of how Martin got his grail.

Bulgari Drops the Glow-in-the-Dark Aluminium Collab with DJ Steve Aoki SJX Watches
Bulgari Drops May 13, 2021

Bulgari Drops the Glow-in-the-Dark Aluminium Collab with DJ Steve Aoki

Bulgari has teamed up with Steve Aoki to create the Aluminum Steve Aoki, a funky version of its aluminium-and-rubber watch. Launched in 1998 and then revived last year, the Aluminum is an entry-level, lightweight sports watch that’s been given a subtle but fun twist with the “O” from the American DJ’s signature incorporated into the dial. Born in California – his father founded the popular Japanese restaurant chain Benihana – Steve Aoki is one of the world’s most successful DJs, having collaborated with various musicians from Maluma to BTS. A fixture in the “Top 100” rankings by industry publication DJ Magazine, Mr Aoki also has his own streetwear line, making this collaboration with the Roman jeweller a natural evolution. Initial thoughts A hit upon its revival last year, the Aluminium is cheerful and affordable, while having an easily recognisable Bulgari design. Its design is strong enough that I find it to be one of the most fascinating watches in its price segment, despite the generic movement. The only downside of the Aluminium is the softness of the metal, which means the watch case will show wear more quickly than a steel watch. And careless wear will result in a case that looks very worn. The Aluminum gets better with Steve Aoki collaboration. The DJ’s emblem on the dial is modern, bold, and a perfect match for the spirit of watch. But it’s also discreet – hardly visible during the day at arm’s length – preserving the classic design....

The Return Of The Dress Watch! Back From The Brink With 5 New Watches From Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, And Montblanc Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Chopard May 10, 2021

The Return Of The Dress Watch! Back From The Brink With 5 New Watches From Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, And Montblanc

“Dress watches” were initially just “watches.” While their popularity may have dwindled over the years as more casual and sporty watches have taken off, many brands have stayed faithful to the concept of the dress watch as Martin Green highlights here with five beautiful new examples.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport in Rose Gold SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces May 10, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport in Rose Gold

Introduced just earlier this year, the Chronomaster Sport is the first regular-production model equipped with the El Primero 3600, the latest iteration of Zenith’s storied chronograph movement. Having debuted the line with versions in steel, Zenith now unveils the rose gold Chronomaster Sport, adding a touch of luxe to the sports chronograph. Initial thoughts While not the most novel, the new Chronomaster Sport is a sensible addition to the line. Flagship sports chronographs – Daytona, Speedmaster, Big Bang et al – are offered in solid gold, so it makes sense that Zenith would take the same approach with the Chronomaster Sport. I’ve handled the watch in the metal, and it is eminently striking in gold and black. Admittedly, it does have a passing resemblance to the Daytona in the same livery, but I would say that the Chronomaster Sport more than holds its own, especially considering its movement. The dial is recognisably Zenith with its signature tri-colour registers, as well as the date at 4:30. More crucial is the inscription on the bezel that hints at the movement within. The calibre has a 1/10th second resolution for the chronograph, surpassing most chronographs in its price segment. Funnily enough, one of my favourite aspects of the watch is actually the gold flange with the minute track that circles the white dial – the colour pops and works wonderfully against the precious metal case. Priced at US$21,300, the rose gold Chronomaster Sport is substantially m...

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2015 Rates 97/100: But How Does It Compare With The 1985 Vintage, One Of The Greatest Wines Of The Last Century? – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 9, 2021

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2015 Rates 97/100: But How Does It Compare With The 1985 Vintage, One Of The Greatest Wines Of The Last Century? – Reprise

Tenuta San Guido's 2015 Sassicaia was a warm vintage but an exceptional one, and that is reflected in the wine. It is considered to have similarities with the sensational vintage conditions of 1985, which Ken Gargett has tasted twice and has rated 100 points standing on its head both times. Sassicaia is one of the most famous wines of Italy, and often one of the country’s very best.

Would you rock a $100,000 rose-gold tourbillon for cave diving? Meet the man who does… Time+Tide
May 7, 2021

Would you rock a $100,000 rose-gold tourbillon for cave diving? Meet the man who does…

When it comes to watches, I am continuously torn between the two extremes of my personality. On one side there’s my inner OCD stress-head who agonises over every hairline scratch. But then there’s the side of me that yearns for a spot of adventure. Reconciling the two isn’t always easy. We all love to read … ContinuedThe post Would you rock a $100,000 rose-gold tourbillon for cave diving? Meet the man who does… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch – the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor Time+Tide
May 7, 2021

Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch – the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor

Imagine a watch that could give you sexual superpowers. Buckling it onto your wrist would invest you with such dangerous charm and animal magnetism that no mortal could possibly resist you. Admittedly, as watch complications go, this would be a damn sight more useful that any piddling moon-phase. But this far-fetched object might actually exist … ContinuedThe post Voodoo sex and a 1950s gold watch – the missing link between Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The four dark horse watches of Watches & Wonders, as voted by your favourite watch websites Time+Tide
May 7, 2021

VIDEO: The four dark horse watches of Watches & Wonders, as voted by your favourite watch websites

You’ve probably cottoned on now to the video series that we’re running that picks the best of the watches just released at Watches & Wonders 2021 in various categories. The under $10k category dropped yesterday. If you happened to see that opening statement, you’ll be well aware; the Oscars this ain’t. The point of this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The four dark horse watches of Watches & Wonders, as voted by your favourite watch websites appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

300 Years Of Jaquet Droz – And The Brand Is Just Warming Up! Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz May 6, 2021

300 Years Of Jaquet Droz – And The Brand Is Just Warming Up!

What appeals to Elizabeth Doerr about Jaquet Droz is that within the Swatch Group's 190 separate companies (including 18 marques), the brand operates very much like an independent watchmaker and its artful timepieces reflect this. Here she goes deep into the history of one of the Swatch Group's oldest brand names, celebrating the 300 years since the birth of its founder.