40,939 articles · 5,416 videos found · page 653 of 1546
Quill & Pad
As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, Martin Green feels that the time is soon approaching to write an obituary announcing the death of the dress watch. He thinks that its passing is coming and it's not an isolated event. But it still hurts.
SJX Watches
Marking its 90th anniversary this year, the Reverso is the only truly successful reversible wristwatch. Jaeger-LeCoultre has long utilised the twin sides of the Reverso case for complications, and now for the first time equips the flip side with a digital hour display. The Reverso Tribute Nonantième – nonantième is French for “ninetieth” – has a conventional front, but an unusual reverse decorated in blue lacquer that features a “semi-jumping hour”, disc minutes, along with a day and night display. Front and back Initial thoughts From the front the Nonantième is hard to distinguish from other Reversos, but from the back it is immediately interesting with its digital hour and disc-type minutes. The reverse face is attractive and certainly unique, but the movement inside is more familiar. Though the cal. 826 is new, it is evidently derived from the cal. 853/854 in the various Reverso Duoface models, being similar in principle but different in indications. It’s mechanically novel, though the fact that the hour display is “semi jumping” rather than actual jumping is regrettable. The reverse display with digital hours Rectangular (or even tonneau) watches usually lose their elegance beyond a certain size, and the Nonantième is close to the limit. At 49.4 mm by 29.9 mm, the Nonantième is a big watch, identical in size to other extra-large models in the Reverso line up, making it suited for larger wrists. At a bit over US$40,000, the Nonantième feels p...
Deployant
Presenting the complicated Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso to celebrate the 90th Anniversary - the Reverso Tribute Nonantième, the maison's first jumping hour.
Time+Tide
As a community, we watch lovers can forget there is a larger world beyond our obsession, and that the overwhelming majority of watch buyers are not plugged in, in any way, to our commentary. Not every luxury watch buyer, even of popular models we all desire, has dived down the #watchfam rabbit hole. Consequently, they … ContinuedThe post ANALYSIS: How is the $5.2m Audemars Piguet Black Panther different to the $160k version? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Other than the green dial 5711/1A, Patek Philippe has been busy with a furry of excellent novelties for 2021. Here are our picks for the best.
Video
Revolution
The Negroni Bear goes barefoot to the Maldives dressed in the epitome of tropical black-tie chic.
SJX Watches
Having notched up records for the thinnest watch in several categories – including tourbillon, chronograph as well as minute repeater – Bulgari is continuing with the perpetual calendar. The Italian jeweller now claims another record for thinness – its seventh – with the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. Taking the mantle from the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the new Octo perpetual calendar is just 5.8 mm in its entirety – with a movement only 2.75 mm high. It’ll be offered in the traditional livery of the Octo Finissimo of sandblasted titanium, but unusually also in platinum with an alligator strap. Platinum (left), and titanium Initial thoughts There’s no doubt that Bulgari is perhaps the best at ultra-thin watches – its titles for the thinnest watch in seven categories are testament to that. Yet the brand doesn’t simply rely on its record-setting thinness as a gimmick. Most of its ultra-thin watches are interesting beyond the slimness. The Octo design in its own right is striking. And the perpetual calendar has been executed in a symmetrical, sensible manner. Though the dial is somewhat crowded, it remains legible thanks to the large sub-dials and minimalist aesthetic. It’s a well-designed watch and perhaps the most stylish perpetual calendar on the market. The calendar includes a retrograde date in an arc on the upper half of the dial, with the day and month just below, and the leap year in a tiny display at the base Be...
Revolution
Developed in consultation with astronauts, the new Fortis AMADEE-20 chronograph comes with a 44mm sandblasted titanium case and custom titanium Mission Control Bezel (MCBT).
Time+Tide
Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity. Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119. A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel. The cal. 30-255 PS Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking. But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 int...
Video
Time+Tide
Jewellery and watches have always been interlinked, but there is a quantum leap from a gem-set bezel to the intricate wrist-worn jewellery of Bulgari. Set deep within their Roman DNA, the pure exuberance of the Italian Dolce Vita comes alive in the Bulgari Allegra. This is dazzling joie de vivre on a strap that willfully … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Égérie collection from Vacheron Constantin presents the beguiling combination of Haute Horlogerie with Haute Couture. Merely seeing the photos makes me jealous of my wife, as this is something I surely cannot classify as unisex. But maybe for once, that’s a good thing. While citing inspiration from the world of high fashion, there … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...
Revolution
Wei Koh brings us through a small selection of his collection of integrated-bracelet, ultra-thin watches and tells us why the Piaget Polo Skeleton would be a worthy addition.
Revolution
Wei Koh and Eric Ku, discuss the recent meteoric rise of vintage Cartier prices and heightened interest from the collecting community in contemporary Cartier timepieces, along with a deep dive into the Tank Cintrée on the occasion of its 100th anniversary.
![The only video you'll ever need to watch about the extraordinary Audemars Piguet [Re]Master01](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/EkBl9JwIwHI/hqdefault.jpg)
Video
Time+Tide
Hublot truly is a pioneer in watch materials. Their motto “The Art of Fusion” is not just a tagline, it is a prime directive that drives all of their manufacturing. By thinking ahead, and pushing the boundaries of what a manufacturer can do, they are able to execute things many (if not all) brands are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cool, icy cool. That’s what we have here, in a watch that brings to mind the German form over function we know from Sinn. With an air of indestructability, the Vero Open Water is a watch in which I can see no trace of vintage, or even the slightest trace of retro homage. And this … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Vero Open Water is an elegant tool that offers a welcome break from vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The 180th anniversary of Dresden’s famous Semper Opera takes place on April 12, 2021. Home to the Saxon State Opera and the Saxon State Orchestra concert hall, the historic building also features the innovative Five-Minute Clock, which was the inspiration for A. Lange & Söhne's now iconic large date. Sabine Zwettler shares the story behind this clock and how it inspired the most powerful visual element of A. Lange & Söhne's Lange 1.
SJX Watches
First hinted at in a late-2019 interview its chief executive, the debut of the Audemars Piguet-Marvel partnership was delayed by almost a year – and now it has finally happened. Together with American comedian Kevin Hart, Audemars Piguet boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed the very first product of the Marvel tie-up yesterday during a live-streamed event in Los Angeles. Inspired by the superhero who’s also the ruler of the fictional kingdom of Wakanda, the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon is also notable beyond the comic-book character depicted in hand-engraved white gold sculpture on its dial. It is a more compact version of the historically extra-large Royal Oak Concept wristwatch, making it the most wearable Concept to date. Francois-Henry Bennahmias And just after the reveal of the watch, a live auction took place, with all proceeds going to charity. The auction included several experiences with sportspeople who are Audemars Piguet (AP) ambassadors, like lunch with tennis champion Serena Williams, but the closing lot was the highlight. It was a unique version of the Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon in an 18k white gold case decorated with a hand-engraved Wakandan motif. After spirited bidding by buyers from several countries, the winner clinched the watch for US$5.20m – over 30 times the retail price of the standard model – an all-time record for an AP watch sold at auction. The unique piece that sold for US$5...
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett thinks that the 2001 Château d’Yquem is the finest young wine he has ever experienced, red or white, and remains convinced that it will go down as one of the greatest Yquems, if not the greatest of all time. But he was also able to experience something else: drinking "twin" vintages of this amazing Sauternes.
Video
Time+Tide
There was a curious response to our Instagram post about one particular model in the new Aquaracer Collection. It’s the Limited Edition of 844 pieces based on a Heuer model, reference 844 from 1978. A couple of days ago, we posted it side by side with the model that inspired it. Now, for me, this … ContinuedThe post The top 5 TAG Heuer watches of 2021, with a focus on the redesigned and more refined Aquaracer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...
SJX Watches
Having introduced several Santos-Dumont limited editions last year that all sold well, Cartier has followed up with a pair of Santos-Dumont Extra-Large watches, both also limited editions but featuring dials that are notably unconventional for the Santos. Leaving the Santos Dumont XL distinct from earlier iterations of the same model, the new dial design features a spiral, stamped guilloche in its centre, along with reflective Arabic numerals for the hours. It’s found on both the new editions, one in platinum that’s accompanied by a pair of cufflinks, and the other a more affordable, two-tone iteration in steel and pink gold. Initial thoughts While attractive, most of last year’s Santos-Dumont models were in the Large case size – except for the ultra-pricey platinum, box-set edition – which despite the name is relatively small by modern standards. The Santos-Dumont XL, on the other hand, is a good size that’s large enough while still being thin and elegant. The pair of new watches are both XL size, making them ideal for anyone who found last year’s trio too small. Though the case design remains identical, Cartier smartly bestowed a new dial design on the new pair, which leaves them looking surprisingly unusual. Though the dial design is clearly inspired by vintage Cartier watches from the early 20th century, the Arabic numerals are novel for Cartier, which makes the two new models unconventional but still appealing. I don’t typically like two-tone watches...
Video
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.