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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.
VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft Oct 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes

The iconic French fashion house Louis Vuitton may not have any claim to a watch worn on the moon, but that didn’t stop them from releasing a cosmic phenomenon in the Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft. Unlike the drum-shaped Tambour watches which tend to be a little sportier, the Escale collection aims to evoke … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case” Originally Oct 10, 2022

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont “Lacquered Case”

Originally conceived as a pilot’s watch when it was created over a century ago – as one of the first-ever wristwatches in fact – the Santos is not even remotely sporty in the modern sense of the term. Instead the Santos is an elegant watch that is quintessential Cartier. Earlier this year, the Parisian jeweller recently gave its trademark square watch a bold makeover when it debuted the Santos-Dumont Large Model Lacquered Case. Featuring a bezel and case covered in lacquer, the new Santos-Dumont was unexpected and certainly one of the most intriguing iterations of the models to date, yet it easily feels like quintessential Cartier. The steel version with black lacquer Initial thoughts The lacquered Santos-Dumont is an achievement given that the original is so established, perhaps the bestselling square watch in history. Though the case is inspired by a vintage Santos with a lacquered bezel dating from the 1920s, the new Santos-Dumont still feels satisfyingly original. It obviously reimagines a familiar design, one so familiar it might have even become tired, but manages to translates it into something entirely different. A pair of vintage Santos watches from around 1910, both part of the Cartier Collection In fact, the lacquered Santos-Dumont stands apart not only from earlier Santos models but also the competition. While brightly-coloured dials are now common for dress watches, the same cannot be said of the case. As a result, this is one of the most interesti...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Dumoreau DM02 is designed by an award-winning architect and it shows Time+Tide
Oct 10, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Dumoreau DM02 is designed by an award-winning architect and it shows

The watch microbrand game has become incredibly alluring over the last few years, with some examples rising from humble Kickstarter origins to sky-high profits and unmeetable demand. It’s such an attractive market that Carlo Aiello - an award-winning architect, designer and author - entered the fray in 2020 with his own brand called Dumoreau. The brand’s … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Dumoreau DM02 is designed by an award-winning architect and it shows appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Oct 8, 2022

Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is certainly among the more recognisable watch designs out there, I’d even venture as far as calling it iconic. I’m sure that most of you are already familiar with its origin story, so I won’t bore you with a history lesson. It should suffice to say that the original 1931 design was … ContinuedThe post Dressing down a Reverso is easier than you’d think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Oct 7, 2022

Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe

With spooky season upon us, it’s time to sort out your superhero costume. Every hero (or villain) needs a selection of primo gadgets to accessorise their super-suit, and if you happen to be a playboy billionaire with a secret double life, a luxury watch is a must-have. While the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black … ContinuedThe post Kapow! 5 high-end watches from the Batman universe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail Time+Tide
Panerai or possibly even Squale Oct 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail

When you think of watch collaborations with the Italian navy your mind would usually travel to a brand like Panerai, or possibly even Squale. That said, with Bulgari so proud of their Italian heritage, it makes perfect sense that they would pay tribute to an important piece of their nation’s history, regardless of their militaristic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet Time+Tide
IWC Mark XX Oct 4, 2022

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet

Whether or not you are a seasoned collector, every collection needs a staple watch. A watch that excels in its simplicity, its versatility and reliability providing a rock-solid foundation within your collection. For many, the watch of choice to fill that role has been an IWC Mark. Robust, legible and handsome with its military and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Mark XX is a huge upgrade with its new dials and bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love Time+Tide
Rolex models Oct 3, 2022

Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love

A collaboration between Bamford and Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ feels just perfect, doesn’t it? Bamford made a name for himself by “vandalising” sought-after Rolex models in his signature aqua and black, while seconde/seconde/is renowned for subverting the smallest details of a watch in the most irreverent way possible. Now the pair have finally come together to … ContinuedThe post Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Time+Tide
Bulgari s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani Oct 2, 2022

The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani

Of all the people we get to interview in my line of work, the most interesting people to sit down with are the watch designers themselves. To hear the philosophy behind a design from the creator, provides key insight into the past, present and future of a collection. Unfortunately, by the time I joined the … ContinuedThe post The ‘do’s and don’ts’ of Octo Finissimo design with Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Richard Mille Oct 1, 2022

Highlights: Unorthodox Sports Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong

Following our round up of independent watchmaking highlights at the Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches I auction in Hong Kong, we now turn to something more conventional and even fashionable: high-end sports watches. But naturally we’re not going to run through the unorthodox examples that need no extra publicity (though one “hype” watch might have slipped in). Our selection of a half dozen includes an early Richard Mille and possibly a value buy, a IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition that has an interesting and little known movement. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The RM002-V2 Lot 2161: A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus An entirely new collection that debuted just in time for the modern brand’s 25th anniversary, the Odysseus is an outlier for a watchmaker that historically focused on high-end, classical watches. Though the Odysseus sports a design that’s unsurprising for Lange, it is the brand’s first watch with an integrated bracelet. More notably, the Odysseus was the first regular production Lange watch in steel. But we’re not here to talk about the heavily-hyped steel model, instead this is the model in white gold, which arguably offers more value than the steel version at market prices. The integrated-bracelet sports watch arena has long been dominated by the Royal Oak and Nautilus, so what makes the Odysseus a contender? The same characte...

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How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price Time+Tide
Sep 30, 2022

How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price

Ronald Chew (aka Horologym) is a watch collector based in Singapore. But he’s also one of the few people in the world who has managed to beat the queues and the flippers to assemble a complete set of the MoonSwatch. What makes this achievement even more impressive is that Ronald didn’t spend big on the … ContinuedThe post How I managed to buy the MoonSwatch full set without paying one cent over the retail price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Sep 30, 2022

Breitling Navitimer: The Ultimate Guide to the Icon of Pilot's Watches

Introduced in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer is the quintessential pilot's chronograph watch as well as one of the most instantly recognizable Swiss watches in the world. Aimed exclusively at professional pilots in its earliest versions, the Navitimer was instrumental in popularizing the pilot's watch genre for the general public, and it remains, in all of its various sizes, colorways, and aesthetic executions, the flagship of Breitling's modern-day collection. Here is the story behind the Breitling Navitimer and how it evolved into an icon of its field, along with an overview of Navitimers on the market today. The First Family of Chronographs (1884) German immigrant Léon Breitling (below, left) founded his eponymous watchmaking firm in Saint-Imier, Switzerland in 1884, devoted to producing precise stopwatches and other timing devices for use in military and industrial fields as well as competitive sports. The rise of both the automobile and the airplane in the early 20th century provided the inspiration for Breitling and his son Gaston, who took over the firm in 1914, to produce a number of historic innovations, several of them patented, that would influence the world of horology going forward. Léon launched one of the first timepieces with an eight-day power reserve in 1893, and a chronograph with an unprecedented ⅖-second accuracy in 1896. Gaston (below, center) is renowned today as the inventor of the first wrist chronograph with an independent pusher, separ...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum Time+Tide
Longines Sep 30, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum

Just got back from Zermatt last Friday evening, and right upon my return the action was nonstop throughout the week. With a moment to finally catch my breath, I can now catch you all up. The next morning, upon arriving back from Switzerland, Longines invited me out to Governors Island in NYC to watch the … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Craig’s NTTD Sale, a unique Zenith, Showjumping with Longines, and DWW Horology Forum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Time+Tide
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Imagine Sep 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic

Imagine you’re a watch brand. If you had a 20 year old watch model in your catalogue, what would you do? How would you breathe new life into it so that both fans of the brand, and those you’re trying to attract, feel moved? This is not an easy task and it is one that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer Sep 29, 2022

Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet

The story of the Speedmaster Professional being the Moonwatch has been told a tiring number of times. The story of the Mars Watch however, is much more of a novelty. First released in 1998, the Speedmaster X-33 was designed by Omega in collaboration with the USN Blue Angels and USAF Thunderbirds, and has since seen … ContinuedThe post Earth Attacks! The new Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer is ready to blast off for the red planet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack Time+Tide
Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph Sep 29, 2022

VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack

When we think of dive watches, our minds typically wander to Swiss and Japanese creations. But do not sleep on the Germans, they definitely know their way around a dive watch as well. Glashütte Original caught the attention of sports watch enthusiasts looking for something different when they unveiled their SeaQ diver, a revival of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph is an elevated diver that stands out from the pack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition Time+Tide
Sep 28, 2022

What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition

This past weekend, Dubai Watch Week bought its Horology Forum to the city of New York. There, over the course of three days, the local watch community was treated to multiple panels, debates, masterclasses in photography and even a few watch clinics. Yet much as this writer enjoyed all the content and experiences, the side … ContinuedThe post What’s on your wrist? Watchspotting at the DWW Horology Forum New York Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 28, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue

It’s been six years since Bucherer inaugurated Bucherer Blue, a line of special-edition watches made specifically for the Swiss retailer by watchmakers ranging from Tudor to Audemars Piguet. Dressed in the Bucherer’s corporate colour of dark blue, the Bucherer Blue collection has become one of the retailer’s defining qualities. The latest to join the collection is a sports watch from H. Moser & Cie., the Streamliner Tourbillon Bucherer Blue, which features a flying tourbillon on a smoked grey dial framed by a ring of blue sapphires. Initial thoughts Visually simple in the typical Moser style but far from plain, the Streamliner Tourbillon is an attractive watch to begin with. It retains the no-frills look of a sports watch yet while managing to dial up the technical features with a double-hairspring flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The Bucherer Blue edition takes the idea of contrasting simplicity and complexity further with a gem-set bezel that certainly adds sparkle without taking away from the clean lines of the Streamliner. At a distance the bezel might evoke the coloured bezel inserts that are common in sports watches, though up close it is undeniably bling. But the gems blend well into the design as the uniform colour of the stones and graduated, geometric pattern they form both suit the Streamliner aesthetic perfectly. And the dial is a restrained, pale grey – naturally in Moser’s trademark smoked finish – that doesn’t compete with the sapphires...

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