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Fratello
IFL Watches is not kidding around when it comes to new releases. For its latest project, the brand used the Maen Manhattan 37 as the canvas to create a series of hand-painted dials inspired by geometrical art. The result is a watch that combines the angular ’70s style of the Manhattan with a colorful dial […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Maen Manhattan Paradox to read the full article.
Fratello
As Fratello writers, my colleagues and I always have this article in the back of our minds as we work our way through the Watches and Wonders peak workload. We all know that sooner rather than later, Head of Content Nacho will schedule a Watches and Wonders 2026 favorites article for each of us, so […] Visit Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you. Brief History of Gübelin Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry m...
Monochrome
When it launched in 2012, Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture made waves in the watch world. A complication usually found in far pricier watches, it delivered in-house world time functionality with an “accessible luxury” price tag. Not content to rest on its laurels, FC unveiled a new and improved Worldtimer at Watches & Wonders this year […]
Worn & Wound
Playing on nostalgia is nothing new for watch brands, but I’ve mostly been immune to it. Usually it’s for a period of time I wasn’t alive for, or a war I didn’t fight in, or an old car I simply don’t care about. But I’ve come to accept that I’m at an age where nostalgia for me is actually real history for many. My lived experience of hanging up phones, buying CDs that came in cardboard long boxes, and killing time in malls doing nothing at all might seem as foreign to someone 20 years younger than me as getting all misty about the Pan-Am logo does for my friends and colleagues at the heart of Gen-X. It was inevitable that a luxury watch brand would reach back into my childhood and pull something out like the Reebok Pump. The fact that it’s H. Moser is not particularly surprising given the brand’s recent history of challenging somewhat stodgy conventions of what it means to be a “luxury” brand in the first place. But it does make me feel a little old to know that something I have such a clear memory of from my youth is fodder for the watch nostalgia marketing machine. For those who have forgotten or are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a line of basketball shoes introduced by Reebok in the early 90s with a particularly enticing gimmick, at least to impressionable children who waited all week to watch NBA Inside Stuff every Saturday morning: the shoe’s tongue was topped with a rubber basketball “pump.” Pushing it inflated an air pock...
Hodinkee
For the first installment of our latest series, we look at how one New York City collector has made Grand Seiko an important part of his daily life.
Hodinkee
A little taste of Geneva's horological scene at some new and little-known watch spots for those attending the public days at Watches and Wonders.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Patek Philippe brought more than twenty new references to WWG26 across its main collections. Instead of running through the full list, we pulled out five models that give a clear sense of what the manufacture introduced this year - one from each of the major lines and representative of the updates shown at the fair. [...] The post Five Highlights From Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2026 appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Fratello
Alpina revisits one of its most recognizable collections with a fresh update for 2026. The Startimer enters a new era with refined proportions and enhanced legibility. Most notably, Alpina reduces the overall case size by 10 percent. The stainless steel case now measures 40mm in diameter and just 10.14mm thick. As a result, the watch […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Collection to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch. Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition. Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look. Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable - it really is - but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch. This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ceramic casing mig...
SJX Watches
A noteworthy release for W&W; 2026, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. 7941A1ACNU) delivers on the promise of a full ceramic bracelet. The stealthy model distills from Tudor’s expertise working with industrial ceramics and completes the fully black look for the beloved diver’s watch. Initial thoughts Although I’m not too partial of ceramic watches in general, this latest edition of the Black Bay might be among the best offerings on the market. With a full ceramic construction (save from some strategic steel components) the timepiece captures the “black-out” theme perfectly. There is a strong market for all-black timepieces and Tudor’s latest Black Bay Ceramic is a solid proposition. Tudor’s quality is generally unmatched in their price category and the Black Bay Ceramic is one of the more affordable ceramic-cased timepieces. The new bracelet and clasp also add considerably to the value of the watch and complete the look. Having handled the piece personally I can confidently say the bracelet wears light and comfortable. The clasp action is sturdy, but somehow doesn’t covey the sense of security the heftier T-Fit clasp does. It’s not that the lock isn’t reliable — it really is — but a butterfly-style clasp just feels off on a diver watch. This new Black Bay Ceramic follows the newer Black Bay design language, with the slimmer crown and slimmer profile. Since it remains part of the Black Bay line, this can be considered a tool watch, but the ...
Worn & Wound
IWC is not a brand that quickly moves on from a release. Rather, any new watch is also the launch of a platform that will, for several years at least, see new models in terms of colors, sizes, materials, and complications. In doing so, their catalog is vast yet focused, as each line is thematic yet deeply explored. Since relaunching in 2023, the Genta-derived, integrated bracelet, luxury tool watch that is the Ingenieur has steadily expanded to now cover three sizes, multiple materials, many colors, and one complication, totaling 12 SKUs (before Watches & Wonders releases). For 2026, the expansion continues with several new references, including a tourbillon, and two models that kind of blew me away. I had the fortune of getting to spend some time with IWC’s 2026 novelties before the big show, and while several are striking (I mean, that full Ceralume perpetual is one of the most bonkers watches I’ve seen in a while), the two that I have kept thinking about are the Ingenieur automatic in green ceramic, and the full titanium perpetual. Starting with the former, IWC is no stranger to ceramic. In fact, they debuted the first ceramic watch in 1986. While many brands have adopted the material since, IWC’s earthy palette of green, khaki, and blue retains a certain understated charm. The 42mm Ingenieur has existed in black ceramic for at least a year now. While sleek, stealthy, and a logical edition, it wasn’t all too surprising. The full green ceramic, however, is a bit....
SJX Watches
To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective. The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...
Teddy Baldassarre
It's the start of Watches & Wonders 2026, and Rolex has announced their newest additions to their catalog. New dials, new metals, new exclusive references and even a new movement. Watch the video to find out what's new for this year at Rolex
SJX Watches
IWC teams up with Vast, prospective constructors of the International Space Station’s private successor, with the IWC Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive, a uniquely astronaut-friendly take on a spacefaring watch that breaks new ground for IWC’s signature pilots watches. If all goes well, these watches pass the Kármán line next year when Vast plans to launch the Haven-1 commercial space station. Initial thoughts Vast is an American aerospace company hoping to develop modular commercial space stations (Haven-2), and, at a glance seems more promising than the average ambitious space startup. If all goes to plan, the Vast Pilot will launch with the Vast’s Haven-1 prototype space station in 2027. The Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive - which could easily have been called the “Vast Pilot” as a play on its popular Big Pilot - is among the most visually appealing watches from IWC in recent memory. Computer rendering of the Vast Haven-1. Image – Vast Pressroom The combination of white and dark gray, and a clean but technical look leans into the “NASA Punk” aesthetic. The minimalist industrial look calls to mind watches like the IWC Ocean 2000, designed by Ferdinand Alexander Porsche. The gradated blue horizon around the dial is an inspired thematic choice, and is paired with a matching seconds hand. The lack of a chronograph is surprising, given IWC’s general affinity for them, as well as their domination of the space watch genre. I find that refreshing, sinc...
Fratello
Tudor is always an exciting brand to look at during Watches and Wonders. This year, the brand hasn’t disappointed, with a host of new releases. The new Tudor Monarch looks very cool, and so does this Black Bay Ceramic. Let’s dive in. Tudor is no stranger to ceramics, but today, we get a watch with […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Cartier’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 include notable crowd pleasers, with a standout being the Santos-Dumont LM with a mesh-link bracelet in matching precious metal. Inspired by watch bracelets of the 1920s, the new bracelet is 15 links across with each link just 1.15 mm high, making it supple and ergonomic. Very much catering to fad for such bracelets, it is also removable and sports a double-folding clasp. The new Santos-Dumont models themselves are cosmetic variations of the existing model, with the most unusual being the yellow gold version with a dial of obsidian, which is volanic glass. Initial thoughts The new Santos-Dumont pairs the familiar square watch with an appropriately retro mesh-link bracelet that fits the design perfectly. Like the Les Opus trio, this Santos-Dumont trio isn’t imaginative or novel, but it is executed well and has tactile appeal. Both the clasp and flush-fit end links that continue the link pattern are a pleasing touch. In some ways the bracelet is perhaps more fitting for the model given its history as an aviator’s watch, although the Santos-Dumont now is very much a dress watch in the modern sense of the term. The commercial success of 2023’s Tank Normale with a bracelet probably helped convince Cartier that such bracelets are a winner, despite the substantial cost of a precious metal bracelet today. That said, the new Santos-Dumont on a bracelet is pricey but not outrageously so. It starts at €44,400 in yellow gold and ris...
Fratello
Just before the doors to Watches and Wonders open, several brands not officially part of the event are also launching new watches. One release I’m very excited to see in person this week is the new Singer Reimagined DualTrack. Along with a chronograph, a GMT complication is one of my favorite features a watch can […] Visit Introducing: The Singer Reimagined DualTrack - A GMT Based On The Calibre-4 Solotempo to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Swedish brand Anders & Co introduce a familiar-looking AC2 with a difference, a hand-wound mechanical movement, paired with three new dialsThe post Anders & Co gives the AC2 Volcán a mechanical heart, while keeping its characterful flair appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hamilton is an American-born Swiss watch brand whose Khaki Field collection draws on its military heritage, featuring a clean, highly legible field watch design inspired by watches made for soldiers and outdoor use. Building on Hamilton’s transition from military supplier to civilian watchmaker, the new Khaki Field King is a slightly more refined, versatile model […]
Monochrome
As announced about a year ago, Corum is back in Swiss hands following a management buyout after the exit of Chinese Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group. As Watches and Wonders is fast approaching, it is time for the new management to lift the veil on their strategy to get the brand back on track and […]
Fratello
Let me introduce you to Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana, founders of the new watch brand Desder. Italian-born Coppoletta, who’s based in London, is best known as a tattoo artist, designer, and art director. He founded the influential London studio The Family Business in 2003, which became a global reference point for high-end tattooing, before […] Visit Introducing: The Streamlined Desder D001 - A Wrist-Worn Sculpture With A Triple-Axis Tourbillon to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Whenever I go to a watch event, whether that’s a local meetup, Watches & Wonders, or one of our own Windup fairs, my brain does that thing where upon leaving, I’m trying to figure out the MVP from that event. Not that the watches are in competition with one another – it’s just how I organize my thoughts, figuring out what I liked the most. Coming out of British Watchmakers’ Day last month, the clear MVP for me was the extremely limited Apiar Gen1.1 Underground. I reviewed an early version of this watch last year and was really impressed, and this limited edition (just three pieces!) had a London Underground inspired dial made by The Dial Artist himself that really won me over. I’m a bit of a public transportation nerd so this one called out to me in a strong way, and I admit that I left London last month with a twinge of regret that I didn’t pull the trigger on this watch when I had the chance. Luckily for at least some of us (but not me, I’m tapped out, really) Apiar has followed up the Gen1.1 Underground with a predictable but very welcome sequel, the Gen1.1 Night Tube. As you can probably gather from the name of the watch and the photos, this is effectively a blacked out version of the Underground, because people, of course, ride the subway at all hours of the night in London. This marks the first time Apiar has used a DLC coating on one of their watch cases. Aesthetically, it really shifts the focus to the dial, which I think takes on a brighter quality...
SJX Watches
Albishorn returns with a new interpretation of its mountaineering chronograph, the Thundergraph Khumbu, swapping the original’s petroleum blue dial for a green colourway and introducing the brand’s first-ever bracelet option. Like its predecessor, the watch draws inspiration from the 1952 Swiss expeditions to Everest, this time taking its name from the Khumbu region of Nepal traversed by the climbing party on its approach to the mountain. Initial thoughts I was impressed by the original Thundergraph when it launched last year - it was my favourite Albishorn to that point. The Khumbu does not reinvent anything, but the bracelet option is a meaningful addition that should widen the appeal to a new segment of collectors. The stainless steel case is carried over unchanged at 39 mm at the case band, expanding to 42.7 mm across the bezel. The asymmetric form, red anodised aluminium monopusher at 9:30, and bronze crown engraved with the Albishorn logo - appropriately modeled on a snow-capped peak - are all retained. The case back also carries the same Swiss cross and rope engraving, the emblem of the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, which remains one of the more convincing elements of the brand’s ‘imaginary vintage’ concept. Khumbu green The petroleum blue dial of the original Thundergraph has been replaced by a mint green opaline hue, said to be inspired by the Khumbu glacier region, where vegetation survives in a harsh environment of ice and rock. The disti...
SJX Watches
In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, a new crop of emergent independents is making its debut. But even within a crowded field, the Cleguer Inspiration One manages to stand out with an ambitious proprietary escapement and clever construction. It’s a promising start for founder Mathieu Cleguer, an engineer who’s had a hand in developing several calibres for well-known independent brands. Initial thoughts The artisanal, highly finished time-only watch is a well-worn trope among independents, but occasionally one breaks from the pattern. The Inspiration One from Cleguer Horology is one such watch. Mathieu Cleguer is an industry veteran who has worked as a movement construction consultant and now produces watches under his own name. The opening salvo in what is planned to be a larger ‘Inspiration’ series designed to explore alternative escapements, the Inspiration One is built around the so-called innate escapement, a fresh twist on Breguet’s natural escapement. The system is Mathieu Cleguer’s own design, and from initial analysis it exhibits a surprising degree of ingenuity and is original in its execution. Discreet signature on the interior bezel. The open design - an off-centre dial with exposed escapement - is a familiar arrangement among independents, but the delicacy of the components gives it a refined quality. The 38.5 mm case is well-proportioned, though the 12 mm height borders on tall. While there’s room to develop a more cohesive design language goi...
Fratello
We already mentioned Baltic in a recent Fratello Talks episode, “The Microbrands To Watch In 2026.” Etienne Malec founded the brand 10 years ago and launched his first watch a year later. We suspect he’s planning something big for the anniversary, but it doesn’t look like Etienne needs any excuse to launch great new watches. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Baltic Heures Du Monde With Three Stone Dials to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss underrated vintage brands that are worth a long look. We’ve had these types of chats before, but it’s always nice to see what we’ve missed. You’ll hear some familiar names today, as well as about some smaller companies that could be new […] Visit Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s that time of year when the new releases start to trickle out in preparation for the season’s watch shows. However, there’s something else on the horizon that still seems unfathomable in some geographies. Finally, Summer is coming. As a result, a brand like Doxa is always active and takes the opportunity to introduce novelties. […] Visit Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 II Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
When Breva returned in 2025, it did so with the Segreto di Lario, a watch that marked a reset for the brand after years of silence. Instead of earlier niche complications like barometers or altimeters, this new collection focused on a more legible, instrument-style display built around retrograde indications. That first model set the tone […]
SJX Watches
Announced last year, Swatch’s AI-DADA platform is now live, enabling customers to design and build their own custom Swatch with a design that will never be repeated. With a low entry price and quick turnaround, I took the platform for a spin. Why AI Swatch has been a design-oriented brand since its debut in 1983. Not only has Swatch produced a dizzying array of original designs of its own, over the years the brand has collaborated with celebrated artists and leading institutions to democratise access to wearable art. About a decade ago, Swatch’s world-class logistics infrastructure enabled it to offer customised watches via an online configurator that enabled customers to mix and match different elements from a pre-selected range of options. That was quickly followed by the ability to generate a custom-printed design, by dragging a Swatch template over a selection of human-created patterns and designs. The AI-DADA system, launched earlier this year, builds on this basis in way that only Swatch could pull off. The system leverages an undisclosed large language model (LLM) to generate a custom design based on a user’s 300-character prompt. The result is a made-to-order Swatch of the customer’s own design, delivered in as few as five days. What’s more, the cost is little more than an off-the-shelf model, at just US$195. With little to lose, I took the plunge. AI-DADA Swatch watches are powered by standard quartz movements in the typical New Gent case size. Three str...
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