Deployant
Live from WWG 24: new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RES
Live from F. Berthoud booth at Watches and Wonders 2024. We just saw Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB RES. Here are some key notes.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
29,861 articles · 1,999 videos found · page 654 of 1062
Deployant
Hodinkee
Introducing: Rolex Adds A Platinum Model To Its Dressy Perpetual 1908 Collection
A textured dial and platinum case add some intrigue to the Crown's newest collection.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Tudor Black Bay Goes Monochrome
Now with Master Chronometer Certification And A T-Fit clasp, this Black Bay follows the design codes of last year's Burgundy model.
Time+Tide
The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory
While many fans expected a Coke bezel, Rolex goes with a ghosty black and grey for the new GMT-Master II. The black-on-black-on-grey combo is unlikely to be the game-changer that a coloured ceramic bezel would be, but it’ll undoubtedly be a hit among fans. The monochromatic GMT is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 makes the half-ghost bezel accessible, in theory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black
Last year, Tudor unveiled a deeply refreshed version of its original Black Bay – understand the 41mm edition – featuring multiple important changes; Master Chronometer movement, updated and slimmer case, new bracelet options, new clasp, new crown and new bezel… Almost an entirely new watch. First presented in the classic burgundy and gold colour scheme, […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: Zenith Revives The Funky 1969 Defy Diver A3648 – In A Faithful 37mm Size!
It marks the first revival of a diver in the Defy line for the brand, and boy is this one a welcome surprise.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Adds Monochrome Color Option To Black Bay Lineup
At this point, I've gotta say that I'm still glad the 41mm Tudor Black Bay lineup is still kicking around. Last year we got versions with updates to the bracelet and METAS certification. This is still an important collection for Tudor and it shows. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024 Tudor has announced the addition of a new monochrome colorway. If you're the kind of person that simply can't stand faux vintage gilt and color tones, this might be the one for you-if you also like the larger size. The best part is that we still get the Master Chronometer movement, which is starting to look like more of a gold standard across several Tudor models.
Time+Tide
Every Tudor release from Watches & Wonders 2024
Tudor surprises with a wonderfully retro, METAS-certified GMT, and a new monochromatic Black Bay.The post Every Tudor release from Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold with a Slate Ombré Dial
Rolex is broadening its higher-end collection with the addition to the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 collection of an ombré slate dial within the line-up (understand a gradient toned dial). Notably, Rolex ombré dials were previously exclusive to the Day-Date 36. This new reference introduces another first: faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and index hour markers in […]
Fratello
The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut
As Watches And Wonders 2024 kicks off, Tudor introduces the latest incarnation of the upgraded Black Bay model. Following in the METAS-certified footsteps of last year’s introduction, in 2024, the red and gold accents are stripped away in favor of a monochromatic look. And it turns out that when you take away the signature livery […] Visit The New Tudor Black Bay METAS Makes A Monochromatic Debut to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink
The new Gerald Charles Masterlink arrives just in time for Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s a modern take on Gerald Genta’s famous Maestro case paired with an integrated bracelet. There’s no mistaking this watch for anything but a Genta-inspired design, yet it’s a thoughtful and new evolution. Last November, I had the opportunity to attend […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Is Finally A Reality
A quick look at the brand new for 2024 Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. The classic returns in a smaller and more manageable case size.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR in Steel with Grey-Black Bezel
While everybody was expected a Coke (black and red) version of the GMT Master II to be released this year, and most probably in white gold, Rolex has decided to expand (important word) its steel range with a new monochromatic tone, using the recently released grey-and-black bezel found last year in the yellow gold or […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Highly Anticipated Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph (incl. Video)
Introduced in 2021, the Defy Skyline is an important sub-collection within Zenith’s contemporary Defy series. Since its inception, the collection has flourished to encompass over 20 references spanning time and date, skeleton, and tourbillon-regulated models. These come in various sizes and are adorned with various colours, materials, and even precious stones. Despite its rich offerings, […]
Monochrome
First Look – The Return of the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph
Cartier has staged a strong comeback amongst collectors in recent years thanks to its ever-growing Cartier Privé collection and other historic recreations such as the Pebble, Crash and Tank Cintrée. A range of high-end, mechanically advanced and visually appealing watches, it can be seen as the resurgence of the all-time favourite Collection Privée Cartier Paris, […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Most Complicated Watch Ever, the Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication with Chinese QP
Back in 2015, on the occasion of the brand’s 260th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Reference 57260, a pocket watch made-to-order for a collector considered the most complicated in the world – with no fewer than 57 complications, including Gregorian, Judaic, and lunar calendars. On the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2024, the Geneva-based manufacture […]
Time+Tide
A playful yet respectful new colour for the IWC Portugieser Chronograph
Let’s be honest. When people attend a watch fair as huge as Watches & Wonders, they’re most excited about new watches and not so much new colour schemes. There is an exception to this, and that’s when the colours are just too nice to ignore. Of the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph collection, we got our … ContinuedThe post A playful yet respectful new colour for the IWC Portugieser Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Green finally arrives to the Vacheron Constantin Overseas
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection in green is totally captivating, and shows exactly what a high-end luxury sports watch should be.The post Green finally arrives to the Vacheron Constantin Overseas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
First Look – The World’s Thinnest Tourbillon, the New 2mm Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon (incl. Video)
One field of expertise immediately comes to mind when thinking about Piaget: the art of crafting ultra-thin watches. Throughout its history, the brand has become synonymous with legendary calibres, such as the 2mm thin 9P introduced in 1957 and the 2.3mm thin 12P micro-rotor movement unveiled in 1960. Approximately a decade ago, the groundbreaking 900P […]
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces the “Orbis in Machina” Central Tourbillon
No stranger to extravagant timepieces, Roger Dubuis’ brand of “Hyper Horology” is apparent in its bold design language and intricate, showy movements. For Watches & Wonders 2024 the manufacture presents the Roger Dubuis Orbis In Machina Central Monotourbillon, a central tourbillon with an expectedly classical movement. Initial thoughts The way Roger Dubuis carries itself now is very different from the brand’s early, classically styled pieces. The current house style is centred on mechanical aesthetics, angular shapes, and large cases with proprietary triple lugs. The Orbis in Machina sticks to that familiar style, although the front appears more subdued and technical than the average Roger Dubuis complication. Despite the layered and open-worked dial, the technicality of the piece is mostly concealed. Orbis in Machina still carries a few embellishments, resulting in a design that is clearly opulent in a hyper-mechanical sort of way. Seemingly sitting at the top of a stack of moving parts on the dial, the tourbillon regulator serves as the centrepiece. Paradoxically, the more restrained composition on the outside contrasts with the interesting and sophisticated mechanics within. The movement fills up the large case, creating a sense of visual density. This is more evident on the back, which tells a whole different story compared to the front. The display back reveals an intricate and exquisitely finished movement. Stylistically, the RD115 movement is also an unusual...
SJX Watches
The TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper Goes Luxe in 18k Rose Gold
TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...
SJX Watches
Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver
Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Cartier Santos Dumont That Tells Time Backwards (You Read That Right)
Plus the return of the lacquer dial with Santos Dumont four ways, in three colors, and three metals.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Leads A Trio Of Updates To Its Complicated Collection
JLC combines a chronograph and moonphase in its innovative model defined by its two independent gear trains.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch. Initially launched as a piece unique for the postponed 2023 edition of Only Watch, the Monaco Split Seconds now enters regular production in red and blue liveries. Titanium inside and out with an integrated movement developed by Vaucher – the movement bridges and plates are titanium – the Monaco Split Seconds is a premium product with a premium price that puts the brand in the haute horlogerie segment, which also communicates a mixed message given the brand’s focus on affordable chronographs. Initial thoughts While sports timekeeping is core to TAG Heuer’s DNA, the brand’s only wrist-worn split seconds chronographs to date were of the quartz and digital variety. And given the delayed sale of the Only Watch example, the Monaco Split Seconds will be TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph sold publicly, enhancing the collector appeal. One of the most iconic square watches in history – and probably the only recognisable sports chronograph with a form case – the Monaco has proven adaptable to both retro and futuristic designs over the years; the Split Seconds is of course the latter. While I find the overall styling a bit over the top, especially the X-shaped braces that form part of the dial, I can’t help but admire many of the details, such as the stepped box sapphire crysta...
Monochrome
First Look – IWC Glimpses Eternity with its Secular Calendar, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar (incl. Video)
IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar is the undisputed calendar masterpiece of the Schaffhausen-based brand for Watches and Wonders 2024. A colossal technical milestone, the Eternal Calendar marks the brand’s first secular perpetual calendar. Unlike a perpetual calendar that will need a correction in 2100, the Eternal Calendar is fitted with a 400-year gear that overrides the […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde
If you’re new to watches and have noticed the big wave of retro love sweeping the world, the Ulysse Nardin Freak will surely shock your system. And it will stun you even more if you are not privy to the fact that this is an ever-evolving creation that is already over 20 years old. That’s […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad - Reinventing Hand-Crafted Avant-Garde to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph
Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover
Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s novelties at Watches & Wonders is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine (CEP), the latest model to receive the monochromatic, all-platinum treatment. Coming two years after the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph CEP, this utilises platinum extensively throughout the watch, and even the stitching of the strap, while maintaining many of the standard model’s key characteristics. Initial thoughts On its face, the new Tourbillon Chronograph closely resembles the standard model in rose gold. The view from the back is practically identical – which is a good thing given the appeal of the cal. 3200, a recent in-house calibre (and not Lemania based) but one constructed with traditional aesthetics and details. Nevertheless, being a CEP edition, it embraces a primarily grey palette. This is tastefully complemented by the blue accents, including the blued steel hands, and a single blued screw on the tourbillon cage. It’s a straightforward yet effective combination. The formula is the same one applied to past CEP editions, so the similarity between this and the standard model is understandable. However, varying the design more in order to distinguish this from the regular production model would have made it a bit more special. Nevertheless, the CEP possesses a refined charm and is more appealing than its current standard model, albeit with a price tag that is quite a bit more, as is usually the case for CEP...
Worn & Wound
The Hublot MP-11 Gets a New “Water Blue” Sapphire Treatment
Watches & Wonders 2024 is here, and with it comes another addition to Hublot’s expanding lineup of colorful sapphire-cased watches. These vibrantly hued sapphire cases have become a bit of a staple for Hublot in the last few years, and I am here for it. As someone whose preferences typically skew towards the sensible and sedate, you might be surprised to learn that, in staunch defiance of my typical taste and common sense, Hublot’s experiments have produced some of my favorite recent watches. I’m a big believer in fun watches and, for all the flack that gets sent Hublot’s way, it’s impossible to deny the smile that creeps across your face when you strap on a giant purple sapphire tourbillon. Today’s addition to the brightly colored lineup is a new limited version of the Big Bang MP-11. The MP-11 was first introduced six years ago (back when Baselworld was still a thing) and is no stranger to transparency. Over the years, the MP-11 has seen releases in clear sapphire, dark blue sapphire, and green SAXEM. This new release brings a different character to the familiar piece, with a brand new icy glacier blue sapphire case and matching rubber strap, complemented by titanium hardware, bezel screws, and crown. The new color, which Hublot is calling ‘Water Blue Sapphire’ and releasing in a limited edition of just 50, is the result of a new chemical formula, and results in a color that seems to change based on the light around the watch from a pale blue to an ocean-...