Revolution
The Panerai Luminor Marina: Enduring Classics
How a watch from the annals of military history-and a brand that embodies Italian swagger-redefined “cool” for a new generation of collectors.
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Revolution
How a watch from the annals of military history-and a brand that embodies Italian swagger-redefined “cool” for a new generation of collectors.
Quill & Pad
The Moomin universe was created by the late Swedish-speaking Finn Tove Jansson. It comprises a microcosm of Jansson’s fairytale version of Scandinavia thrown in a blender with Roald Dahl and a sprinkling of J.R.R. Tolkien. And that’s all present in the Sarpaneva x Moomin watch honoring the 75th anniversary of Jansson’s highly successful book, 'The Moomins and the Great Flood.' This watch has a secret, though. Find it here!
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Bell & Ross introduces a bright new orange colourway for their popular square diver – the BR 03-02 Diver Orange. Press Release Bell & Ross – the ultimate reference in the world of professional aviation watches – is constantly striving for excellence. Each watch is designed in harmony with the context in which itRead More
SJX Watches
A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black. Initial thoughts Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux? The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is. And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value. Restrained style Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch. An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock. It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is ma...
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Last week, we covered six watches with a vibrantly coloured dial to add into a watch collection. This week, we decided to take it up a notch. Instead of looking just at coloured dials, we will be focusing on watches with a coloured case instead. This means that instead of the usual case variants, weRead More
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Time+Tide
The absolutely magical story embedded in our latest Watch & Chill Episode revolves around the unusual story of Eric Ku’s vintage Audemars Piguet chronograph restoration. To say the watch is rare is laughably inadequate. There are 307 vintage-era Audemars Piguet chronographs in existence. Every single one of them is a piece unique (more about that … ContinuedThe post The dream brief: “No deadline, no restrictions on budget, no pressure.” Eric Ku’s Audemars Piguet restoration will make you melt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER have launched the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife watch, a limited edition of 100 timepieces, specially adapted for The King’s Man, the upcoming Kingsman origins film directed by Matthew Vaughn.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has just taken the covers off the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001, a medium-sized take on its original dual-time zone aviator’s watch. Originally launched in pink gold, and then in steel as a limited edition, the compact pilot is now available in white gold. Now very much a familiar part of the Calatrava range, the pilot’s watch was a surprise when it was first launched. A radically new design for the classical watch manufacturer when it debuted in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time sparked some controversy, mainly centred the generic aviator’s watch look and the oversized pushers. Several additional models later, the Calatrava Pilot is a full collection of watches, ranging from the time-only limited edition made for the New York Grand Exhibition to an alarm that chimes like a repeater, and now the mid-size Travel Time in white gold. Initial thoughts While the sporty look suits the original model with its large 42 mm case, the smaller case appeals to people with more traditional tastes or smaller wrists, making the new mid-size version an intuitive and complementary edition to the line. It’s essentially a more wearable version of an appealing watch. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time looks more youthful than the average Calatrava, though that’s changing with recent releases like the ref. 6007A, owing to the oversized numerals and large pushers. Still, in traditional Patek Philippe style, the overall feel is refined for a pilot’s wat...
Time+Tide
The Seiko Alpinist series is a beloved staple of enthusiasts on watch forums and Instagram, with its comfortable shape, size and particular Japanese take on a sophisticated field watch with a rich history. Earlier this year, changes came to the lineup, with the Alpinist logo no longer present, and the Prospex X above the historical … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The brand new Seiko Alpinist SPB155J and its siblings SPB157J and SPB159J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: How did Hermès not only survive, but manage to thrive after resisting a takeover bid from LVMH? This story tells the tale. And leaves out what might be the best bit for us, as watch lovers. Which is Hermès’ ongoing ascendancy in watchmaking. Who could forget the extraordinary Arceau L’heure de la lune … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!
SJX Watches
Once an American watchmaker that was a global giant, Hamilton is today a Swiss brand best known for its value-proposition, vintage-inspired watches – and providing watches for several Hollywood films. Its speciality is exemplified by watches like the Khaki Field Mechanical, a robust, military-style watch that costs less than US$500. Hamilton has just unveiled a new collection of affordable pilot’s watches, the Khaki Aviation Converter. The line up is made up of three watches – time and date, GMT, and chronograph – all equipped with a slide-rule bezel for cockpit calculations and conversions. From left: the base model automatic, the GMT, and the chronograph in two variants Initial thoughts As with the most of the watches in the Khaki collection, the Converter is appealing in design and no doubt solidly, if simply, constructed. While it might not be the most original in design – the slide-rule bezel is synonymous with Breitling’s Navitimer but used by many brands – the Converter is strong value. Starting at US$995 for the automatic and rising to US$2,145 for chronograph, the collection is a good entry into watches featuring a slide-rule bezel. The bezel features double-row knurling for good grip The generic design aside, it is heartening to see that attention has been paid to the details. With the large, luminous hands and contrasting colours, legibility appears good. The movements are visible through the case back, something that can be captivating for a beg...
Time+Tide
An automatic dive watch that brings value to both your wrist and environmental efforts, the Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean SRPE33K is the latest special edition made in honour of protecting the ocean. Across the board, Seiko is known for providing high horological value at lower price points than its Swiss peers and the “Save … ContinuedThe post The new Seiko Prospex “Save the Ocean” SRPE33K has a scratched blue ocean dial you have to see to believe… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Unveiled quietly in July and destined only for a handful of Asian markets to start with – and then worldwide from November 2020 – the Tudor Royal is a lightly retro wristwatch with an integrated bracelet, almost a luxury-sports watch, but for decidedly entry-level money. Like many of Tudor’s more affordable watches, the Royal Day-Date is powered by a Sellita movement, as opposed to the in-house movements found in the upper-end models. But the Royal still boasts the brand’s typically excellent quality, especially of the case and bracelet. The design of the Royal, however, is a mixed bag. Initial thoughts The Royal is good enough that I hope it will be gently tweaked, which would make it outstanding; it could be so much better. In fact, the Royal is Tudor’s most paradoxical watch. The quality and wearability are good, some details are great, but the bezel and dial are both old fashioned and dull. Nevertheless, the Royal is, like nearly all Tudor watches, excellent value for money. Priced at about US$2,400, the Royal has an Oyster case that’s excellent in both construction, finish, and design. And it provides another alternative for those who want a solid Tudor watch that doesn’t look like a sports watch. The wide, flat face where it meets the bracelet is perhaps its most attractive feature The bracelet is a simple but robust construction that integrates well into the case And the watch wears well. Although the Day Date is wide at 41 mm (there are several smalle...
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Revolution
The Longines Heritage Military Marine Nationale stays true to the military watch from which it draws its inspiration, while meeting today’s aesthetic and technical requirements.
SJX Watches
Urwerk has just revealed the next generation of its flagship wristwatch – the UR-220 “Falcon Project”. Retaining the same case shape and signature satellite-cube hour display as its predecessor, the UR-210, the “Falcon Project” is nonetheless an entirely different watch. The UR-220 is powered by a newly-developed movement that hand-wound, instead of automatic as before, and in a first for the brand, the case is made of carbon composite, matched with a rubber-carbon composite strap. Initial thoughts A landmark in avant-garde independent watchmaking for its three-dimensional wandering hours, the UR-201 evolved into the UR-203 and then the UR-210. The new UR-220 is an incremental improvement in the same vein, though a substantial one. I had hoped for a brand-new time display to succeed the satellite-cube indicator, but that is perhaps something for the distant future. Even though the UR-220 retains the same general aesthetic on the front, it is fundamentally different mechanically. The movement has been substantially reengineered – the base remains the Zenith Elite calibre in the UR-210 but now minus automatic mechanism – and now incorporates new functions like the cylindrical service indicator. It also sees the addition of a split power-reserve display, which Urwerk says was a complex mechanism requiring 83 parts. While that may be true, it feels unnecessary, except to give the face a symmetrical layout. But one of the most significant changes is the case mate...
Revolution
Hublot re-introduces the original 1980 Hublot watch for the 21st century, in yellow gold, titanium and black ceramic (45mm) powered by an automatic movement.
Time+Tide
As most watch collectors will agree, there are few things better than getting a new watch in your collection. It’s the thrill of having a new watch on your wrist that you’ve been thinking about for weeks or months, and is the culmination of researching, considering and finally pulling the trigger on that special piece … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook, now with interchangeable straps gives you three for the price of one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Not only Martin Green thinks that a date has the power to swiftly ruin the appearance of a watch. But that didn't happen to Breguet's latest addition to the Tradition family, the smart Quantième Rétrograde 7597 with its clever new date function. See for yourself!
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Hodinkee
Plus a look at last week's biggest watch drops.
SJX Watches
Originally just a model name for the bestselling watch of the brand MDM (short for Montre des Montres), Hublot got off the ground with one of the “it” watches of the 1980s that a first in combining yellow gold with a rubber strap. The brand is now 40 years old and a global success thanks to a late-in-life rejuvenation. To commemorate the occasion – which chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe hinted at in January – the brand has unveiled the sleek and simple Classic Fusion 40 Years Anniversary modelled on the original Hublot wristwatch of 1980. Minimalist in style, the anniversary watch sticks to the restrained look of the maritime-inspired original – hublot is French for “porthole” – but is substantially larger to cater to modern tastes. And like the original it is available in 18k yellow gold – combining the precious metal and rubber was a novelty in 1980 – but also in titanium or black ceramic. The 1980 model in steel (left) and the anniversary edition Initial thoughts While modern-day Hublot watches are often maximalist and sometimes over the top, the anniversary Classic Fusion is the opposite, a look that works well with the case and bezel. The 1980 original was a compact, pared-back watch that was at odds with the fashionable watches of the era – think two-tone Cartier Santos or Ebel – and proof that less is more. The dial of the remake sticks closely to the original, with a white-on-black date that is a welcome improvement. But the addition of ...
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The new Hermès de la lune watch offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres. Two mobile counters gravitate on a lapis lazuli dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with an exclusive module, coupled with a Manufacture Hermès movement.
SJX Watches
Best known for his affordable, customisable watches, Torsti Laine recently completed a chronograph that was several years in the making. Commissioned by one of his earliest clients, the Laine Watches AKIL13ZN Piece Unique reimagines a fabled Longines 13ZN chronograph movement, while still retaining originality in style and substance. The watch is powered by a vintage 13ZN movement that was rejuvenated by Mr Laine and matched with a newly-made case and dial inspired by chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. Initial thoughts Even though the watch is a one-off that will not be repeated – Mr Laine is no longer making chronographs – it is a well-executed realisation of the owner’s vision that is worth a quick look. And it was also done at reasonable cost, illustrating Mr Laine’s focus on excellent but affordable watchmaking. The aesthetic is clearly vintage inspired, but done with an eye for detail that clearly came from a collector. Elements like the arrow-shaped hand on the minute register, or the large, flat crown, are small yet important in establishing the pleasing, period-correct look. Notably, the movement is nearly identical to how it was when it left the factory, having only been modestly modified. This is contrary to current tastes in refinishing vintage movements to a modern standard, but it is sensible in both aesthetics – the vintage-inspired dial and case suit the movement well – and also cost, since extensive decoration is not necessary. The watch is ...
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Hands-on review of the Panasonic LUMIX S1R, S-PRO lenses, Leica SL lenses and Sigma Art lenses with real world usage in watch photography and general use.
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