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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Insight: The History of Rolex in Iran SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet are relatively new Apr 4, 2021

Insight: The History of Rolex in Iran

Despite their long-established global prominence, brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are relatively new to the Iranian consumer, even among the affluent sections of society – Rolex reigns supreme in Iran’s luxury watch market. The brand’s position as the most enduring luxury watch brand in Iran is likely stronger than in most other countries. Perhaps the truest reflection of this are the countless, tiny shops across the country that have windows filled with a bewildering variety of counterfeit Rolex watches – their number far greater than stores selling Casio and Seiko, the brands that probably sell in the greatest volumes. Rolex has a long history in Iran, one that’s been shaped by events in the country. The Rolex coronet has been an uninterrupted presence on the streets of Tehran since the early 1950s, making it a witness to much of Iran’s 20th century history. As many a watch collector would know, the Shah of Iran was a well-known patron of the brand, even commissioning a unique model, the Day-Date ref. 1831. Resembling an Oysterquartz with its angular case, the ref. 1831 was a run of just eight watches, all in platinum. Rolex was already present in Iran for some decades before, but having the Shah as a client help cement its unique position amongst the country’s governing class. An example of the Day-Date ref. 1831 with a burgundy “Stella” dial. Another example with a blue dial is pictured at the top of the article. Images – Phillips W...

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Apr 3, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Eight-Day Jump Hour

A watchmaker with many excellent movements – and some exceptional calibres – Chopard is instead better known for its jewellery watches or auto-racing chronographs. Now Chopard keeps at its, and has just added to its list of excellent movements with the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25. Conceived to mark the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C line – made up of the brand’s high horology offerings and named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard – the Quattro Spirit is its first jump hour. Dressed up with a fired enamel dial, it is powered by an impressive and refined eight-day movement. Initial thoughts An instinctively appealing watch, the Quattro Spirit is good looking and size well; most notably, the movement is interesting. While jumping hours isn’t particularly complicated, the leap of the digital display on a mechanical watch is still an intriguing sight. Add to that four barrels that supply a run time of eight days, the cal. L.U.C 98.06-L becomes even more compelling. Assembling one stack of twin barrels Notably, even with the long power reserve, the watch remains relatively compact, just 40 mm wide and 10.3 mm tall. That’s thanks to a clever optimisation of space, with the movement relying on twin stacked barrels, with each stack containing two mainsprings connected in series. Priced at a bit under US$45,000, the Quattro Spirit costs substantially more than other L.U.C watches with the same eight-day base movement without the jumping hours. In fact, the addition of the jump ...

Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display SJX Watches
Urwerk so Genus Apr 3, 2021

Genus Bestows a Dragon on the Figure-of-8 Display

A young company founded just two years ago, Genus is all about exotic expressions of time. Though the brand is young, Genus cofounder Sébastien Billières is an industry veteran, having established a workshop that specialises in producing complicated movements for major brands exactly a decade ago. The brand made its debut with the GNS1 – essentially a time-only watch made ultra complicated by virtue of its unique time display – a snaking procession of pointers travelling in a figure of eight that create a dynamic tension unlike anything else. Genus has now taken the concept further with the GNS Dragon, which layers a miniature sculpture over the original in the form of a segmented gold dragon. Initial thoughts The rise of independent watchmakers with atypical time displays started two decades ago – personified by brands like Urwerk – so Genus is rather late to the game, but it still made an impressive entrance. The original GNS1 was a fresh perspective in a crowded arena, the very sort of diversity that makes this hobby fun. And the GNS1 is a serious watch in terms of quality and construction – it also did win the Mechanical Exception award at the 2019 GPHG. While the focal point is the intriguing time display, the movement finishing is excellent; not quite artisanal haute horlogerie like Akrivia, for instance, but nevertheless done by hand and done well, particularly in the genre of avant-garde watches. Made of solid 18k gold, the bridges have wide, polish...

NASA Velcro Straps for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apr 3, 2021

NASA Velcro Straps for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

The Omega Speedmaster Professional is an icon for one reason: the three astronauts of Apollo 11 each worn one during the Moon landing of 1969. And five decades later, Speedmaster remains the only mechanical watch that’s part of NASA’s official kit for astronauts. After many Speedmaster limited editions marking its longstanding relationship with the American space agency, Omega now unveils a set of NASA Velcro straps for the Speedmaster Moonwatch. Initial thoughts From memorable advertisement starring George Clooney and Buzz Aldrin to the paraphernalia and accessories that accompany the multitude of Moonwatch iterations, Omega relentlessly reminds us about the provenance of the Moonwatch, and doubles down on the NASA association with the new straps. The NASA-themed straps are a first, but also a logical and expected extension of the Moonwatch franchise, especially since independent strap makers have offered similar aftermarket straps in the past. The new straps are cool and affordable, making them something of a perk for Speedmaster enthusiasts. As an owner of a Moonwatch myself, I’m a fan of the new straps. Not only are they a nod to the history of the Speedmaster Professional, but they also inject a bit of fun into the no-nonsense Speedmaster design. And they also bring to mind the extra-long velcro straps that actual astronauts use in order to wear the Speedmaster on a space suit. Who doesn’t want to feel like an astronaut? If Omega’s earlier velcro straps ar...

Hamilton partners with the hybrid-electric Smartflyer that aims to change the face of air travel Time+Tide
Hamilton partners Apr 2, 2021

Hamilton partners with the hybrid-electric Smartflyer that aims to change the face of air travel

The future is electric, let’s face it. For me it’s inescapable, my wife’s hybrid Audi A3 is plugged in outside, and I live in a country (Norway) where the most sold new car last year was the all-electric Tesla Model 3. So yes, there’s an unstoppable shift and it will also soon be coming through … ContinuedThe post Hamilton partners with the hybrid-electric Smartflyer that aims to change the face of air travel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; Apr 2, 2021

VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; has somewhat been left in the shadows of the oh-so-perfect-but-slightly-over-hyped 58. The original Black Bay 58 in black is actually part of my own collection, and while it does sit on my wrist with a calm, quiet confidence, I have toyed with the idea of flipping it for this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Apr 1, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past

A watch doesn’t become a classic if designers keep radically altering the way that it looks. A classic design needs consistency and slow, gradual tweaks if it’s to make its mark in the history books. Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither was the Rado Captain Cook. But even a classic design can do … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection looks to the future, not the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected collection for 2021 will make you leaner, fitter and better at golf Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected collection Mar 31, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected collection for 2021 will make you leaner, fitter and better at golf

It’s fair to say that most people have probably put on a couple of COVID kilos during the rolling lockdowns we’ve all gone through over the last 12 months. I know I have. But now that things are slowly returning to a semblance of normality and confidence is growing that our future plans won’t be … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected collection for 2021 will make you leaner, fitter and better at golf appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Urwerk Introduces the All-Blue UR-100V SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces Mar 31, 2021

Urwerk Introduces the All-Blue UR-100V

Urwerk’s avant-garde approach to telling the time is most affordable with the UR-100, the brand’s entry-level model that nonetheless features its signature satellite-disc wandering hours. Having been executed in different finishes in several small runs – most recently with the UR-100V T-Rex – the watch now makes its debut in its most novel livery yet – the UR-100V “Blue Planet”. Initial thoughts The Blue Planet is the seventh iteration of the UR-100 – from titanium, to gunmetal, and a luxe version in solid gold – which is unsurprisingly since the model has sold well due to its affordability, wearability, and unique design. The sheer number of editions diminishes the appeal of the Blue Planet somewhat, even though the blue treatment is a first. While the Blue Planet might feel underwhelming simply being a new colour, it is actually unique amongst Urwerk watches for having a blue movement. Despite the Technicolor palette that Urwerk has applied to its cases, its dials – which are actually part of the movement – have always been black, grey, or silver. Though only a new colour, but it’s a departure from the norm for the brand, which typically has a consistent style. So for the Urwerk fan who wants something different, this is something different without being excessive. But for someone casually interested in the brand, this is probably not that different. An all-blue hue The case of the Blue Planet is coated with a dark blue ceramic coating, with th...

City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge Time+Tide
Mar 30, 2021

City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge

Editor’s note: If you haven’t seen City on a Hill yet then start blocking out your evenings. Imagine The Wire transplanted to the mean streets of Boston and you start to get some idea of this wildly ambitious drama. While a gritty police investigation forms the narrative spine, swirling out from that is a lurid … ContinuedThe post City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai Revolution
Panerai Panerai Mar 30, 2021

Goldtech: Alessandro Ficarelli on the Future of Gold According to Panerai

Panerai, the Italian masters of undersea naval exploration, excel at the art of the well-executed dive watch, a genre typically associated with sturdy cases made from steel, titanium and the like. But Panerai’s distinctive cushions can also be found in a sophisticated array of high-tech materials, as well as one perhaps even more surprising, gold. Or rather, Goldtech.

In-Depth: The Citizen Calibre 0200 Movement SJX Watches
Citizen Calibre 0200 Movement Having Mar 30, 2021

In-Depth: The Citizen Calibre 0200 Movement

Having explored the Citizen Caliber 0200 last week, we now focus on arguably the most important aspect of the watch – the cal 0200 within. An important achievement for Citizen, the cal. 0200 is the brand’s first high-end automatic movement. The fact that the watch was named after its movement indicates its significance, and also the fact that the watch was constructed around the movement, rather than vice versa. The Caliber 0200 wristwatch is high quality, particularly in the finishing of its case and bracelet. That’s all the more impressive given its US$6,000 price tag, which leaves the best of class in its price segment in terms of finishing and quality. But the Caliber 0200’s merits are all encompassing – its movement is as accomplished as the external components. The cal. 0200 is an all-new, in-house automatic with with the features expected of a modern movement, and a little bit more. Beyond its intrinsic qualities, it is also notable for being a fusion of Japanese and Swiss watchmaking: its development, production, and assembly is done by Citizen in Japan, but with a key contribution from Swiss movement maker La Joux-Perret, which makes the base plate and bridges, and helped to refine the movement decoration. The rest of the movement – from development and construction to finishing and assembly – is done by Citizen at its headquarters in Tokyo. In fact, Citizen set up a specialised workshop, the Mechanical Watch Elements Development Department (or ME...

INTRODUCING: Elvis was a Sith Lord in a parallel universe and he wore the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton Time+Tide
Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton First Mar 27, 2021

INTRODUCING: Elvis was a Sith Lord in a parallel universe and he wore the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton

First impressions: a stealth black UFO. perhaps? And then a red pulsating zig-zag that I feel like illustrating with a comic book “ZAP!”. This is my introduction to the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton. Fresh from being inspired by the vintage purity of the Intra-Matic chronograph we recently covered here, I was not expecting this dark … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Elvis was a Sith Lord in a parallel universe and he wore the Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.