33,663 articles · 3,722 videos found · page 658 of 1247
Monochrome
When Mido released the Ocean Star GMT in 2020, it quickly became a sought-after GMT watch. One of the main reasons was its true GMT feature, offering easy entry into the world of jumping local hour watches, all for around EUR 1,200. Unlike an office GMT, where you adjust the 24-hour hand, a true GMT […]
SJX Watches
Ten years after the Polo S, Piaget reimagines the contemporary Polo Date with the brand’s signature gadroon motif. The Polo Signature Date is less a new watch than a clarification: a move to anchor the collection around a more explicit identity. This took place through a two-step process. First, the reinstatement of the historical reference with the Piaget Polo 79. Then, the diffusion of its codes – most notably the gadroons – into the contemporary line, now organised under the Polo Signature name. The result is a watch that remains technically unchanged, but conceptually more defined. The unchanged movement — the automatic cal. 1110P — remains in reliable service. Initial thoughts At first glance, the change is straightforward: the dial now carries the gadroon motif. But more importantly, it gives the watch a clearer and more distinctly Piaget presence. The overall architecture remains familiar – 42 mm case, cushion-shaped dial within a round frame, interchangeable bracelet – yet the visual impression is stronger. Where earlier Polo Date models relied on relatively neutral surfaces, this dial interacts more actively with light, creating contrast and a stronger sense of identity on the wrist. This is perhaps where the update is most effective. The Polo becomes more immediately recognisable, less reliant on its case shape alone. The gadroons do not transform the watch, but they sharpen its character within the crowded luxury sports watch segment. From motif to...
Fratello
IFL Watches is not kidding around when it comes to new releases. For its latest project, the brand used the Maen Manhattan 37 as the canvas to create a series of hand-painted dials inspired by geometrical art. The result is a watch that combines the angular ’70s style of the Manhattan with a colorful dial […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Maen Manhattan Paradox to read the full article.
SJX Watches
London, 1965. Christie’s had arranged the third and final part of the Sir David Salomons Collection for sale — a sequence of Breguet watches assembled by the Victorian baronet whose obsession with Abraham-Louis Breguet had produced the most important English-language study of the watchmaker’s work. When the bidding closed, one man had bought every lot in the catalogue. Continuing our ongoing Complicated Collectors series, Edgar Mannheimer left an indelible mark on watch collecting. He was 40 years old, and had settled in Zurich a decade earlier with nothing but the instincts he had developed in the post-war black markets of Germany. He was not a collector in the sense that he did not keep what he bought. What he did, with a consistency and conviction that separated him from every other figure in the mid-century horological trade, was understand, ahead of the market, what something was worth. The Salomons lots were subsequently divided between two collectors. It was, in miniature, a portrait of how Mannheimer operated: he absorbed the risk, resolved the complexity, and left his clients with the watches. Neutitschein and Auschwitz Edgar Mannheimer was born on December 23, 1925, in Neutitschein, Moravia, into a family whose presence in the town was visible and established. His father ran Marsmalz, a confectionery business prominent enough to operate the community’s first delivery van — a small but telling detail about the family’s position within a world where Je...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward refined nearly every detail of the C63 Sealander GMT for 2026, and the result might be the most irresistible version yet.
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Deployant
Here is our hands-on comprehensive eview of the Patek Philippe Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton Ref. 5840P-001 released in WWG26.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After reviewing a wide range of smaller watches, these are our favorite 36mm picks for fit, comfort, design, and everyday wear.
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking has always been a crucible of creativity and doing things off the beaten path, and that’s exactly the reason why we love the genre so much. From industry legends and trailblazers such as Daniel Roth, Urwerk and MB&F;, to the newest generation of stars, the indie watchmaking scene is truly unique. And while […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Seiko Presage 'Silver Bullet' Cocktail Time GMT lands at $625, bringing an affordable automatic GMT to Seiko's mechanical lineup.
Time+Tide
This week, it was all about the independents as the big brands did most of their releases during the fairs, with plenty of fun to be had.
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![New: Ulysse Nardin [Super] Freak](https://deployant.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/05/SUPER-FREAK_ULYSSE-NARDIN_2520-500LE-3A-BLUE_3A-5-1200x1500.png)
Deployant
Unveiled as part of Ulysse Nardin’s 180th‑anniversary celebrations, the [Super] Freak represents the most technically ambitious evolution of the Freak lineage to date.
Fratello
A surprise party is probably the last thing anyone turning 50 would want. Those celebrating five decades would rather be surrounded by loved ones who understand their wishes and enjoy a good dinner with a nice selection of wines. That’s likely what Patek Philippe had in mind when the iconic Nautilus reached its 50th anniversary. […] Visit Hands-On With The Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th-Anniversary Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
Enzo Ferrari allegedly called the Jaguar E-Type “the most beautiful car ever made”, and decades later, one Jeremy Clarkson proclaimed the Eagle Speedster as “the most beautiful thing he has ever seen”, cementing the E-Type specialists as the Singer of Jaguar cars. And truth be told, the cars coming out of the Eagle workshop in […]
Fratello
As Fratello writers, my colleagues and I always have this article in the back of our minds as we work our way through the Watches and Wonders peak workload. We all know that sooner rather than later, Head of Content Nacho will schedule a Watches and Wonders 2026 favorites article for each of us, so […] Visit Thomas’s Watches And Wonders 2026 Favorites: Conservative Classics Catch My Gaze to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you. Brief History of Gübelin Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry m...
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Hodinkee
Universal Genève means a lot to us at Hodinkee. It's been one of my favorite brands since the early days of our publication—one that's been with me through various moments in my career, through my growth in knowledge and passion for vintage watches, and a brand I've watched with anticipation, hoping it would come back. And today, we are sharing a conversation between myself and Georges Kern, former Breitling CEO and recently appointed CEO of House of Brands, which includes Breitling, Universal Genève, and Gallet, to chat over the recent results of a long-term project to bring Universal Genève back to the forefront. I don't think there's been a more hotly anticipated brand relaunch than that of Universal Genève. The announcement that Breitling (now House of Brands) had secured the rights to the dormant brand sent shockwaves through the industry. We—both in the industry at large and at Hodinkee—had high hopes for the relaunch, but the proof would come with the first releases. Let me tell you, I don't think anyone thought Universal Genève would go this far to knock it out of the park. Just before Watches and Wonders 2026, Universal Genève essentially stole the show before it began by launching a few dozen of its most iconic watches in both heritage-styled and reimagined forms. The Gerald Genta-designed Polerouter? Returned, not just in one size but two, and in multiple materials, dials, bracelets, and more. Oh, and a brand-new microrotor (well, three-quarter rotor...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tracing the 50-year evolution and enduring appeal of the square-cased chronograph that transcended its racing origins to become a style icon.More
SJX Watches
Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Rolex marked a century of the Oyster case with an enamel-dialled Daytona and new Oyster Perpetuals, but also revised the ugly duckling of the catalogue — the Yacht-Master II — transforming it into an appealing and interesting chronograph. Patek Philippe arguably overshadowed the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus with a new Celestial that’s capable of tracking sunrise and sunset year-round (at least in Geneva). Vacheron Constantin and Grand Seiko introduced titanium sports watches many had been waiting for, and TAG Heuer reinvented the chronograph with a fascinating compliant mechanism. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Monochrome
We’ve long come to understand that, during Watches and Wonders (where it releases almost its entire collection for the year), Rolex communicates only on certain of its novelties. What the brand considers the most important, the most relevant and the deepest updates. But, there’s very often more to the story than just what’s been presented […]
Monochrome
In 2026, Moritz Grossmann marks the 200th Anniversary of its founder, one of the key figures behind the rise of Glashütte as a watchmaking centre. Not looking backwards with literal recreations, the manufacture continues with its vision of evolution, respecting traditional Saxon watchmaking but expressing it through contemporary design and execution. The new Tefnut Silver-Plated […]
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Monochrome
After a series of small-batch releases, Anoma introduces its first permanent models with the A1 Core Collection. Until now, the brand has focused on short runs such as the original A1, the Slate edition, and Optical Art. With the A1 Abyss and A1 Stone, Anoma is now offering watches that will remain in the catalogue. […]
SJX Watches
Mathieu Cleguer makes his debut under his own name, with the intricate Inspiration One. The relatively young movement constructor is well known in the industry but has not produced watches under his own name until now. Having worked for various movement specialists — including a stint at Akrivia — Mr Cleguer launches Cleguer Horology with a thoroughly impressive debut featuring a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts Although the market for artisanal time-only watches has becoming increasingly crowded, sometimes a new creation comes along that genuinely stands apart. This is the case with Cleguer Horology’s Inspiration One — a watch that that is surprisingly refined and technically imaginative for a new maker’s debut. Mathieu Cleguer is representative of a new class of independent watchmakers who are not ‘watchmakers’ in the traditional sense. Instead, he is an engineer, with the training and experience to bring fundamentally new concepts to life, so long as he can find the manufacturing partners and bench watchmakers to help realise his vision. It’s a fundamentally different background than what we’re used to seeing — George Daniels, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe started their careers doing hands-on restoration work long before they designed movements of their own. But times have changed, and the emergence of engineer-led brands is a new trend made possible by the depth of the supplier network in Switzerland. For the visual design of...
SJX Watches
Among the independent brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders, Ressence was a standout. The design-forward Belgian independent took a major step forward with the Type 11, powered by the brand’s first proprietary calibre, the RW-01. The Type 11 is tangibly appealing and priced well considering both its unique design and technical content. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the Type 11 and its RW-01 movement, I had the same feeling as when Urwerk launched the EMC back in 2013. At the time, the EMC felt like the start of a new era for a brand that had, up to that point, primarily put its proprietary modules atop widely available off-the-shelf calibres. The EMC proved Urwerk was willing to rethink the movement in its entirety to realise a specific vision. The RW-01 reveals Ressence is moving in that same direction. After 15 years of adapting its Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) modules to ETA-derived calibres, the brand has taken the next step in its development and partnered with an adept supplier to construct a proprietary movement uniquely suited to its signature design. The new calibre was engineered with Ressence’s ROCS module in mind. The movement layout appears purpose-built for winding and setting via the case back, lacking an ordinary stem, and dual serially coupled mainspring barrels extend the power reserve to 60 hours — quite long considering the mass of the ROCS module. While I would have been delighted to see a free-sprung balance, I...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s divisive Cubitus collection enters its third year with the firm’s first truly skeletonised perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Cubitus ref. 5840p-001 Perpetual Calendar Skeleton. As the first member of its clan with a shaped movement, it also welcomes a contemporary aesthetic that breaks with the brand’s established codes of movement decoration, though it’s built on a decades-old foundation. In short, the ref. 5840P is an ideal ambassador for what the Cubitus line can be when it steps out from its brother’s shadow. Initial thoughts The most complicated — and most expensive — Cubitus yet is also arguably the best model in the collection to date, as it probably should be. While on paper it sounds derivative of the Nautilus perpetual calendar, this watch may have the strongest identity of any Cubitus launched so far by fully leaning into the bolder, more contemporary aesthetic that Patek Philippe has, until recently, hesitated to explore. Several details allow the ref. 5840P to have its own identity. The first is the use of a strap, rather than the typical Nautilus-style bracelet. The reshaped movement is another differentiator, as is the new finishing style, which makes it more than just a square Nautilus. Yet the teak deck motif remains central, integrated seamlessly into the skeletonised design. Two other details that stand out are the use of a baguette-cut diamond to denote the platinum case, rather than the usual brilliant-cut stone, and the...
Hodinkee
If there's a watch that seemingly stole the hearts of many collectors this year at Watches and Wonders, it's definitely Chopard's new blue-dialed L.U.C 1860 dress watch. The funniest part is that the new model is really only a dial color change. That's it. And yet, among a sea of new designs and complications, Chopard managed to pull off something much larger than its description on paper, and ended up being one of my personal favorite releases from the show. If you're familiar with the previous, now-discontinued salmon dial version of the L.U.C 1860 released back in 2023, well, chances are you already know much about this watch. But its identical specs are very much a good thing, as I think Chopard has really hit a home run with the 1860 as a proper, compact, and thin (8.2mm) dress watch amongst its larger L.U.C. movement-powered siblings. The 36.5mm case in Chopard's Lucent Steel alloy is very safe in its design, with smooth, curved lines and a fully-polished, rounded bezel and top lugs. While there aren't any little extra design touches that add any additional flair, the sides are vertically brushed to create a bit of contrast. Is the case boring as a result? Certainly not in my eye, as its subdued character works well in the 36.5mm format and, most importantly, it serves as a very nice frame for a spectacular dial. That dial, produced by Chopard's in-house dialmaker Metalem, is an absolute home run. And it surprises me to say this, given that I typically don't care a...
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