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Monochrome
With watch brands across the board riding the Chinese New Year wave, there are no prizes for guessing which of the twelve animals represented in the Chinese Zodiac will be in the limelight this year. Admittedly one of the more attractive beasts to depict on a watch, the dragon replaces the rabbit of 2023 and […]
Hodinkee
Kendrick Lamar and some big auction results have me seeing shapes and complications again.
SJX Watches
Just days a week into the new year, Blancpain and Swatch announce an all-black variation of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, their affordable collaboration introduced last year. The Ocean of Storms retains all the distinctive features of the model, namely a 42.3 mm Bioceramic case containing the Sistem51 automatic movement fitted with a rotor bearing a nudibranch (a shell-less mollusc for those unfamiliar with esoteric marine creatures). Priced at US$400 as before, it will be available at select Swatch boutiques starting January 11, 2024. Initial thoughts When Swatch started teasing this new variant on social media, it seemed to be yet another one-off limited edition available for one day, like the MoonSwatch “Mission to Moonshine Gold” releases last year. However, as more details emerged, it became apparent that this was not the case as this will be part of the permanent collection, bringing the number of Scuba Fifty Fathoms models to an even six. At first glance, the Ocean of Storms bears a striking resemblance to last year’s Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary “Act 1”, a high-end watch that is an actual Blancpain, particularly with the date window and notched bezel. Nevertheless, adjustments to the design set it apart from its pricier cousins as well as its siblings in the Scuba line. It is clearly the most monochromatic and low-key of the range. Priced at US$400, the Ocean of Storms is priced the same as the other variants, retaining its fun and affordable appeal. However...
Quill & Pad
Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.
Deployant
Swatch and Blancpain has done it again. Yet another collaboration Swatch bioceramic interpretation of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.. The two sister brands releases a new non-limited ocean black model inspired by the new moon to join the five watches. Introducing the new Ocean of Storms collection. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: SwatchRead More
SJX Watches
Capturing the spirit of Hermès well with its whimsical yet artisanal dial, the Slim d’Hermès Minuit au Faubourg features a miniature painting depicting “Super H”, a caped superhero over the streets of Paris with the Eiffel Tower visible in the background. Because it is Hermès, the superhero is a horse and the location is 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, the brand’s original store. Like many of Hermès métiers d’art creations, the dial is inspired by a scarf. Here the motif is replicated in “micro-painting”, sometimes known as “cold enamel”, a technique that employs acrylic paint, much like larger-scale artwork. Initial thoughts Despite being one of the most desirable luxury brands – its shares trade at a higher valuation than any of peers – Hermès maintains a whimsical streak that is evident in many of its creations, including last year’s Space Derby depicting jockeys racing robot horses across the stars. The prices are serious and quality, high, but some products possess a subtle humour. The Minuit au Faubourg, which translates as “midnight at Faubourg”, is exactly that. A superhero horse with a luminous “H” signal in the night sky – there are few other brands that can credibly pull off something similar. This is a testament to the careful curation of the Hermès brand. But despite the comic book theme, the dial is executed entirely by hand. Although miniature painting in acrylic doesn’t have the cachet of enamel, indeed it is typ...
Worn & Wound
Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster. It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year. The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...
Monochrome
While the Superman, a skindiver piece, is by far the most emblematic model of French watchmaking brand Yema, three other names might ring a bell to some enthusiasts. All designed as professional instruments in the late 1960s or early 1970s, the Flygraf (pilot’s watch), Rallygraf (driver’s watch) and Yachtingraf (regatta watch) are now deeply rooted […]
The Omega Ploprof is one of the most interesting, iconic, and discussed of all dive watches. Its unusual design is unlike any other diver, and the watch itself has a rich and storied history. When it was introduced in 1970, it was originally conceived as a no-compromises tool for saturation divers. Since then, the Ploprof has evolved into a cult item. It’s still used, of course, for technical diving purposes by dive professionals, but in the years since Omega relaunched the watch in 2009, it’s also become a talisman of a very particular type of dive watch nerdery. It’s one of the most “inside baseball” watches Omega makes, and is beloved by enthusiasts for all of the reasons many in the general public would walk right by it. In this Missed Review, Blake Buettner explores the unique qualities of the Ploprof that make it special. Its unique design elements (the unusual case shape, a prominent crown guard system, the large orange button on the case flank, etc) are all there for very specific reasons rooted in the Ploprof’s extremely specific utility. Blake also gets into the history of the watch, and how this modern version (in titanium) differs from historical versions in unexpected ways. Omega Images from this post: The post Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Over the last few years, the world of watches has continued to expand its reach beyond watch enthusiasts. This, in turn, has allowed brands to speak to wider audiences and forge meaningful relationships with celebrities, charities, and more. Oris is no stranger to significant partnerships with a variety of outlets, and its latest Limited Edition tells a particularly unique and historically interesting story in the world of cricket. Introducing the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Father Time Limited Edition. A bit of context: Lord’s Cricket Ground in London is widely considered the “home of cricket”. Established in 1814, it is the oldest cricket stadium known to man and is beloved the world over. The ground’s owners, the Marylebone Cricket Club (or MCC), have partnered with Oris, making the Hölstein, Switzerland based watchmaker the very first official timekeeper over the ground’s two centuries. As a result of this partnership, the Oris branding sits proudly on the famous clock tower and near the iconic Father Time weathervane, after which this new limited edition watch is named. Father Time himself is cast of iron and is seen stooping over cricket stumps as he watches over the passage of time. Now onto the watch: unsurprisingly Oris has chosen to use the Big Crown Pointer Date as the foundation. As Oris’ most famous model, the BCPD has been in constant production since 1938 and has its roots in aviation. However it has since been seen as Oris’ calling card and a...
Time+Tide
Oris and Marylebone Cricket Club collaborate on a cricket-loving bronze Big Crown Pointer Date.The post Oris’ latest limited edition watch is a love letter to the ‘Home of Cricket’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Given its complexity and often lethargic pace, cricket is not a sport that pops up in the crosshairs of watch brand alliances. However, in 2022, Oris struck an alliance with the Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC), becoming the first official timekeeper in the club’s history. Celebrating this three-year partnership, Oris and the MMC have collaborated on […]
Deployant
Independent and Integrated Manufacture Ulysse Nardin release their latest iteration of the Lunar New Year watch in the form of the Blast Tourbillon Dragon. The watch is specially crafted for the Lunar year of the Dragon.
Monochrome
The Chinese New Year provides many watch companies with the perfect excuse to produce a special edition decorated with one of the twelve animals of the Chinese Zodiac. This year is the Year of the Dragon, and, for the first time, Longines jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition of 888 […]
SJX Watches
Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch, but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...
Quill & Pad
When the Omega Specialties CK 859 launched in the spring of 2022, it flew a bit under the radar as other releases were still garnering a lot of the press (fairly typical for spring in Switzerland). But it quickly picked up steam as people realized what a little gem this watch was, and it became a star in the eyes of fans of sector-dialed watches.
Deployant
Comprehensive review of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. With full analysis and competitive landscape.
Monochrome
For more than 30 years, Nomos has been part of the monumental effort to resurrect the German watchmaking tradition that once thrived in the Glashütte region in the easternmost part of the country. The region is home to a dozen or so brands, from relatively affordable names like Union Glashütte and Nomos to ultra-high-end like A. […]
Monochrome
Mido’s Multifort line has been in production since 1934 and was the brand’s first model fitted with an automatic movement. Earning its ‘Multifort’ credentials, the watch was waterproof, automatic, anti-magnetic and shock-resistant, delivering a robust package at an aggressive price that made it a best seller from the 1930s to the 1950s. Skeletonised dials are […]
SJX Watches
Continuing with its occasional special editions to celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC has just released the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” to mark honour the Year of the Wood Dragon commencing in early 2024. This limited edition is essentially the classic Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3716 but with a striking burgundy dial featuring gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts Burgundy dials on the Portugieser stand out as demonstrated by last year’s Portugieser Automatic 40, so it was inevitable to see it on the Portugieser Chronograph. The fact that this is a limited edition isn’t a big deal since IWC does a fair number of limited editions. But this specific watch, however, does look good. Whilst the design remains identical to the original, this has all of the dial elements in either gold-plating or powder-gilt print, which are more visually complementary than the combination of gold and black found on the silver dial of the standard steel model. The new look incurs an extra charge of US$950 in comparison to the standard production model, culminating in a retail price of US$9,350. While not a great deal by any means, it’s a reasonable premium, given the new dial and commemorative rotor. However, it is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, a substantial number given IWC’s scale, so the brand should have either reduced the premium or edition size to boost the appeal. The Portugieser Automatic 40 “Year of the Rabbit” from 2022. Image – IWC ...
Deployant
February 14 is well and truly on the way. Time to look at something special for that someone special! here are 6 suggestions for that lady.
Monochrome
Dials can come in all sorts of colours and decorative patterns, but one specific style that always seems to stand out more is the gradient dial. Also referred to as fumé or dégradé, the concept is fairly simple. You start with a certain colour in the middle and gradually darken it towards the edge. More often […]
Quill & Pad
London, one day in the not-too-distant future, the final board meeting of the Lux Timepieces III Fund had been a stormy one. Principal investor Igor Abramovich had flounced out after throwing his Roger W Smith Series 1 on the boardroom table, where it shattered into dozens of meticulously handmade pieces . . . hang on to your hats because this is a wild and laugh-out-loud ride!
Deployant
The MTG-B3000CXD exemplifies the perfect blend of structural innovation and aesthetic brilliance, a hallmark of the MT-G watch series. This special model pays homage to the beginning of 2024 with a design that alludes to the mythical dragon zodiac.
Monochrome
For the majority of the time we have been running the Petrolhead Corner, we have been predominantly focussing on four-wheeled fun. That changed a while back when our contributor Erik, a knowledgeable and experienced rider, and I, a novice rider who bought his first bike less than a year ago, started to write about motorcycles […]
Time+Tide
Adam dives into the history and particularities of an oft-overlooked vintage Omega.The post The Omega F300 is a high-tech, underappreciated vintage beauty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...
Hodinkee
Here are three truly independent watches, each for under $15,000 and each with something that sets it far apart from the competition. Which will come out on top?
Hodinkee
The manually-wound dress watch is a basic in any man's wardrobe, and we're putting three that feature in-house movements for under $20,000 to the test.
Hodinkee
A beloved HODINKEE video franchise returns. Our deputy editor sits down with Brynn Wallner and Malaika Crawford to discuss three watches that say "success" – the Patek Ellipse, Cartier Santos, and Vacheron Patrimony.
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