Hodinkee
Auctions: Grand Seiko Makes A Grand Entrance On The Auction Circuit
If we needed any further proof that GS has hit the big time, well, here it is.
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
The Value Proposition: Five Significant Undervalued Watches Of The '80s
As '80s Week draws to a close, Phillips' esteemed Head of Watches in New York answers the one big question: So, what should you buy?
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Unexpected Influence Of The Tissot RockWatch
How a stone-age solution helped solve Tissot's big '80s problem.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2021
Patek Philippe went big at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition that just opened at its Geneva Salon. The watchmaker unveiled the 75 timepieces of this year’s Rare Handcrafts collection, along with as many more from last year’s line up that is on show for the first time, since the 2020 exhibition was cancelled. The most accessible watches of the collection, relatively speaking, are the complicated watches that will join the regular catalogue, which include a trio of chiming watches, from the graceful minute repeater for ladies to the new Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold. The Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R But it is the rest of the Rare Handcrafts collection that capture the creativity and diversity the brand’s metiers d’art. Each unique, the watches and clocks are mechanically uncomplicated, and instead use the dial and case as a canvas to showcase exquisite, vivid depictions of animals, landscapes, and art with a variety of artisanal techniques. Here’s a selection of a few standouts from this year’s collection, all one-off creations that are expensive but usually sold in advance, so most will be dispatched to their owners after the exhibition. Dome clocks One of Patek Philippe’s most distinctive timepieces is not a watch, but the round-topped table clock. A fixture in its catalogue for decades, the Dome Clock is produced in small numbers every year, typically with its exterior panels decorated in enamel. This year’s Rare Handcrafts catalogue includes...
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial in Black
Back in 2019, Longines introduced the Heritage Classic, a remake of a 1934 watch with a “sector” dial. Combining a popular, retro style with an affordable price tag – we gave it a thumb-up in our review – the original Heritage Classic was a success. Now Longines has given the Heritage Classic a black dial, while keeping the rest of the formula the same. Initial thoughts Longines can’t be accused of being imaginative, but that’s perfectly fine as the brand’s forte, at least for watch enthusiasts, is its vintage remakes. In fact, the new Heritage Classic comes just months after the Avigation Bigeye in a new colourway was unveiled. Aside from the dial, the new Heritage Classic is identical to the 2019 model in every regard, so it has the same appeal as its predecessor, though I prefer the black dial over the silver. The 2019 Heritage Classic There’s an austerity to the dark dial that better fits the “sector” dial, which is occasionally known as a “scientific” dial. I already liked the clean and minimalist look before, and now its lines seem sharper in black. However, the black dial forgoes the heat-blued hands of the silver dial, which is a shame, but a necessity given the need for contrasting hands. Priced at US$2,150 on a leather strap and slightly more on a beads-of-rice bracelet, the new Heritage Classic also has the same price – a good thing since that the 2019 original was one of the best value propositions of the year. The new Heritage Cl...
Time+Tide
#Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs
Seiko diving watches are invariably fantastic. But we all eagerly anticipate the deep blue hues and structured dials of the Save The Ocean releases which, for me, are yearly high points within the Prospex range for dial art, coming close to the brilliance of big brother Grand Seiko, but at great prices. Here, we’re pairing … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: The Seiko Prospex Save The Ocean “Antarctica” and the icy cool comfort of Nike Dunk Highs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Parmigiani Tondagraph GT Chronograph Annual Calendar
Parmigiani launched its first sports watch, the Tonda GT, last year. It has an integrated bracelet naturally – inevitable given current trends. Parmigiani is, however, pretty late to the game, since the high-end sports watch with an integrated-bracelet is well used idea. The big names have been doing it since the 1970s, courtesy of Gerald Genta, but the recent popularity of the style means many brands have had a go. Notable new entrants include Chopard, H. Moser & Cie., and even Citizen. Now their ranks are joined by Parmigiani, which, against the odds, has pulled it off with an original, high-quality luxury-sports watch. The Tondagraph GT in its original iteration that was a limited edition of 200 The origins of the Tonda GT might not seem promising. Lacking a historical sports watch design, Parmigiani elected to instead transform one of its dress-watch cases into a sports watch. Surprisingly, the Tonda GT is arguably better looking than the Tonda dress watch. The most compelling offering in the sports watch line is the Tondagraph GT, which combines a chronograph, annual calendar, and sensible pricing. Initial thoughts On paper the Tondagraph GT might not seem interesting. It’s yet another integrated-bracelet luxury-sports watch – and it’s powered by a modular movement. But in hand, the watch is surprisingly appealing. The case is big but thin, with a bracelet that’s equally slim, creating a watch with a comfortable, streamlined profile on the wrist. Even th...
Time+Tide
Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!)
Editor’s note: As part of his ongoing column, David thumbs his nose at high horology to rummage through the bargain bin and unearth some mind-boggling bang for your buckaroos. While it may sound like a ski run in the Alps, the Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is actually a rather handsome timepiece with a distinct Bauhaus aesthetic and … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Swatch Introduces the NASA Space Collection
Shortly after launching the Earth-friendly Big Bold Bioceramic made of plant-based plastic, Swatch is venturing off the planet and towards the stars with the Space Collection. A line of five watches conceived in collaboration with American space agency NASA, the Space Collection is inspired by NASA’s colours and spacesuits. It is made up of a trio of extra-large Big Bold watches with Bioceramic cases, along with a pair of more classical Gent models in regular plastic. Old school Swatch: Space Race (left) and Take Me to the Moon. Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of Swatch and own several, including the MoMA “Starry Night” launched last month. The brand is often neglected by enthusiasts because of its fun and low-cost watches, despite Swatch having played a pivotal role in keeping Swiss watchmaking going during the Quartz Crisis. In fact, Swatch was crucial enough that its parent company renamed itself Swatch Group, despite owning brands like Omega and Breguet. It comes as no surprise that I like the new Space Collection, especially the Big Bold models. The Space Collection represents Swatch doing what it does best – offering fun, interesting timepieces at an accessible price point. In fact, the Space Collection models are likely the most affordable NASA-endorsed watches on the market. To put things in perspective, even the top-of-the-line Big Bold Chrono is cheaper than Omega’s NASA velcro straps. Starting at US$125 for the time-only version – the line up in...
SJX Watches
Highlights: The Creatives at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction
Having rounded up some of the interesting and probably overlooked at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, we now take a look at some of the independent watchmaking highlights in the sale. The auction includes big ticket headline lots like a F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain, and of course the F.P. Journe tourbillon disguised as Harry Winston. But it also encompasses the less obvious, including a Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine, Singer Reimagined Track 1, a Bulgari-era Gerald Genta perpetual calendar in gold and tantalum, and an early-generation H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual 1 that’s excellent value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place in the evening of June 5 (lots 801-852), and on June 6 (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lot 809 – Alain Silberstein Tourbillon Marine Black Sea Cheerful and eminently affordable, the Tourbillon Marine is typical Alain Silberstein. Mr Silberstein’s once explained his approach was to create unique, personalised wristwatches that arouse the emotion. By that measure, the Tourbillon Marine succeeds – it sets itself apart from every diving watch. In his 1990s heyday, Alain Silberstein was rebellious and avant-garde, standing in stark contrast to the strictly conservative style that dominated high horology at the time. This watch is from the early 2000s, but still very much a quintessential Alain Silberstein creation. The dial is quirky and playful – the deep sea ren...
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251
With their penchant for larger diameters clearly visible in the Grand Seiko SBGE251, I feel the need to underline a simple fact with Seiko and Grand Seiko. While there is a lot to be said for the goldilocks 38-40mm case size, I still haven’t figured out how Seiko manages to make my last big diver’s … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The sports-luxe travel glamour of the Grand Seiko SBGE251 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”
Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque
Appropriately for the 90th anniversary of famed reversible wristwatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has debuted the ultimate Reverso. Boasting 11 complications, including a tourbillon, minute repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is a monumental wristwatch with four faces and a movement made up of 800 parts. Initial thoughts The Calibre 185 Quadriptyque is smaller than the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque – which was so big as to be almost unwearable for most – but still sizeable enough to be clunky. It measures 51.2 mm by 31 mm, while standing 15.15 mm high, making it larger than the biggish Nonantième that was launched at the same time. Granted, the size is necessary for the ultra-complex, four-faced movement. Majority of the complications within the new grand complication can be found in past JLC watches, making the Calibre 185 Quadriptyque something of a greatest-hits compilation for the brand. Impressive as it is, the Calibre 185 feels dated, in the sense that watches with numerous complications stacked up were a “thing” in the 2000s; the Triptyque was launched in 2007 and truly exotic in its day. Now that such watches are fairly common, with many leading brands having their own grand multi-complications, the concept is less impressive, regardless of the technical achievement. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch is elaborately decorated – mainly with Clous de Paris guilloche ...
WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir 8 days Hands-on Review
Pros: Vintage vibes anyone?8 Day power reserve – In-house Calibre P.5000Beautifully and symmetrically laid out dial Cons: Boutique only PieceFor wrists smaller than 6.5inches, the 45mm case will be too big Would have loved to see more of the P.5000 movement on the case-back Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 The Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992, released in 2019 is a tribute and recognition of their past. It is based on the first Radiomir that was released in 1936. The first Radiomir project was developed in 1936 at the request of the Command of the Submarine Group of the Italian Royal Navy, for the commandoes of the Assualt Vehicle Flotilla. This first edition was one of the first specialised diver’s watches in history. Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The latest Panerai Radiomir 8 Days PAM00992 is not a one-to-one recreation of the original 1930’s Radiomir, but rather a vintage-inspired design from the original model using modern-day movement, materials, and aesthetics. Design: The Radiomir 8 days is presented in a 45mm case that has quite a unique finish to it. This is the first Panerai watch (along with the Radiomir California PAM 931) to feature what the brand calls Patina steel. The steel case has been given a matte finish, all thanks to a special coating that is applied from a chemical treatment process. Panerai Radiomir PAM00992 45mm The 45mm casing comes with detachable wire lugs...
Time+Tide
The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021
Given the disruptive effects of the pandemic upon watch manufacturers, it’s understandable that some are now cagey about taking too many big risks. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, many brands chose to expand on their design languages without pushing things too far and the results are some truly refined watches. But whether it be … ContinuedThe post The top 5 chronographs of Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
IWC: Top 3 Favourites from Watches and Wonders 2021
We take a look at the latest offerings from IWC, specifically the Big Pilot's collection, straight from Watches and Wonders 2021.
Revolution
Introducing IWC’s Novelties at Watches and Wonders 2021
IWC has introduced eye-catching variations of the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar, two new colorways for the Pilot Chronograph, and a Top Gun Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar special edition.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The toughest new tools from Orient Watch offer in-house credibility and superb value
Around Christmas time when I dug into the archives of Orient Watch, the lesser known sister company in the Seiko family, our story resounded with our readers in a big way. Personally, since my early days of vintage obsession, through to a brief flirtation with a Mako diver, I have nurtured a secret love for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The toughest new tools from Orient Watch offer in-house credibility and superb value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: The Corum Bubble Vintage – Reprise
Ian has a fairly narrow frame of reference when it comes to buying watches for himself: his taste runs to independents, in-house movements, and superlative hand-finishing. So why on earth did he buy a Corum Bubble, which is from a big (for him) brand and outfitted with an ETA 2892 movement with an industrial finish? And it's huge!
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement
Fears Watch Company is a big part of the renaissance of British watchmaking and yet another sign of the new roaring 20s as UK horology continues to regain its momentum. The most important model in the Fears catalogue is the Brunswick and I had the impression that it peaked with the beguiling vertical striations on … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fears Brunswick Pt. combines platinum and diamonds with British understatement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine
I’ll bet many people weren’t even aware of the name o2T, and that’s a big credit to TAG Heuer. It takes guts to downplay the micro-wonders of the mythical tourbillon, swirling slowly inside its cage at 6 o’clock. While we daily see references with less dazzle but 10 words to their model designation, here it’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the Oris TLP Albacete Limited Edition
Originally launched in 2016, the Oris Big Crown Propilot Big Day Date is now available as a limited edition in partnership with the Tactical Leadership Programme, an elite pilot training school in Albacete, Spain.
Time+Tide
The Dial Artist is the man behind the customised CasiOak Galaxy – the hottest G-Shock on the planet
It’s no secret that we’re big fans of the G-Shock CasiOoak and have become particularly intrigued by the modified versions. The CasiOak has quickly become the darling of everyone from first watch-wearing millennials to experienced collectors. Then it dropped. The Casioak Galaxy was a collaboration between IFL Watches and The Dial Artist (Kit Alexander) as … ContinuedThe post The Dial Artist is the man behind the customised CasiOak Galaxy – the hottest G-Shock on the planet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Spider 39 mm
Known for its bold, big, and skeletonised watches, Roger Dubuis is paring back its extravagant style – just slightly – with two smaller, 39 mm versions of the Excalibur Spider. Limited to 88 pieces in each guise, the Excalibur Spider 39 mm retains the brand’s signature Celtic-cross flying tourbillon and the open-worked case of the lightweight Spider series. In addition to the twin Spider models, the new 39 mm size also includes an edition created in collaboration with Italian tyre maker Pirelli, the Excalibur Spider Pirelli that’s limited to just 28 watches. Initial thoughts With the same aesthetic found on earlier Excalibur watches, which were either 45 mm or 47 mm, the new 39 mm models are practical rather than innovative. And the RD510SQ skeleton flying tourbillon movement already exists, found inside the 36 mm Excalibur watches for women. What’s new is the 39 mm case, which makes the Excalibur substantially more wearable. The new case is undoubtedly a commercial decision, since the line between watches for each gender gets increasingly fuzzy. The Excalibur Spider 39 mm Pirelli More women now want larger watches, while men sometimes revert to case sizes that are more old-school 20th century than 21st. During the online launch of the 39 mm models, Roger Dubuis chief executive Nicola Andreatta noted that the 36 mm Excalibur watches were a surprise hit amongst male clients in Japan, despite being marketed as ladies’ watches. The 39 mm Excalibur Spider fil...
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red ticks all my own personal boxes in a big way. The fact that I am a dial man who loves a coloured face and has a marked preference for three-hand watches makes it seem perfect on paper. Fortunately, it’s even better in the metal. … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red presents a dial that’ll make you weep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Sinn R500 Chronograph
Announced just a few months ago, the R500 Chronograph was unexpected for Sinn. Retro and funky at the same time, the R500 departs from the typical Sinn fare of no-nonsense, aviation-instrument watches. The R500 is straight out of the 1970s in style, with a hockey-puck case that has the pushers and crown at 12 o’clock, a retro configuration often known as “bullhead”. But like all Sinn watches, the R500 is a big, robust, and functional timepiece. The diametrically opposite blend of retro fun and tangible seriousness lies behind the R500’s appeal. Initial thoughts Though best known for their utilitarian, and almost military, style, Sinn sometimes creates novel designs, often for specific markets, like the many limited editions made for Japan. But such watches are mostly out of reach for the average buyer, if for nothing but geography and logistics. The R500, on the other hand, is a limited edition available at Sinn retailers globally, but is also different enough from the brand’s usual watches to make it interesting, especially with the retro “bullhead” layout matched with red and green accents on the power reserve scale. And the R500 is also unusual in being titanium, instead of steel, which is the metal most commonly used for Sinn watch cases. The handful of titanium watches that Sinn offers are also mostly dive watches. In fact, the only intrinsic downside of the R500 is the strap, which is a perfect fit in terms of design, but stiff on the wrist and also dif...
Quill & Pad
Serious Fun: H. Moser & Cie. Swiss Alp Final Upgrade
If H. Moser & Cie is edging away from the satirical approach that brought us the original Swiss Alp Watch, it is doing so with a bang with the Vantablack-dialed Final Upgrade version. The Vantablack dial coating, as advertised, absolutely absorbs any light that comes its way. But that is not all that GaryG finds spectacular about this timepiece.
Quill & Pad
Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Triple Retrograde: Great Looks And Excellent Value
Maurice Lacroix has been making a big comeback over the last few years and, as Martin Green explains, this is largely thanks to offering excellent watches at very competitive prices. Watches like the new Masterpiece Triple Retrograde, which exudes quality and has a smile-inducing case and dial.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour
The vintage vibe already seems strong this year as we clearly see in new releases from Big Box brands and microbrands alike. So what’s happened to the modern, rugged sports chronograph, a staple of any decent watch collection? Well, have a look at the Sirrush Corbetti. Here’s a microbrand debut that just might possess that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Habring2 Jumping Second: Great Looking And (Relatively) Affordable Haute Horlogerie
The Habring2 Jumping Second combines myriad details to make a very elegant watch with a utilitarian touch that is both practical and minimalistic. And as Martin Green notes here, a new strap can make a big difference.