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Hands-On Impressions of the New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5 Oct 9, 2025

Hands-On Impressions of the New TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E5

This week, TAG Heuer announced a fifth generation in its Connected watch line, a collection of smart watches that lean more towards traditional watch form factors than most. It is an attempt to appease the modern watch enthusiast while offering the conveniences brought through connected features, most notably health tracking and phone connectivity. That does mean, though, that the previous generation did tend to fall somewhere in a no-man’s land where watch enthusiasts would most likely still prefer a watch, while those seeking smart features opted for more mainstream offerings from tech-focused companies. This new generation, though, is a true generational leap for TAG Heuer Connected. It brings about many meaningful improvements that might make you reconsider your next connected watch purchase. I was able to spend a bit of hands-on time with each version, cycling through the operating system to speak on it here.  Looking first at the case, TAG Heuer is now offering the Connected Calibre E5 in two diameters, the standard 45 millimeter and a new 40 millimeter version. For those scoffing at the 45mm diameter, the Apple Watch SE comes in either a 40 or 44mm case for a frame of reference. At launch, seven standard versions are available between the two sizes, with one separate collaboration special edition. The 45mm case is offered in a mix of stainless steel with ceramic bezels or an all black DLC-coated titanium if you are looking for the full stealth approach. In the 40...

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Oct 7, 2025

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Is Less More? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Oct 3, 2025

The New Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Is Less More? (Hands-On)

In a roster packed to the rafters with hype-laden icons, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is deceptively simple. Or is it too simple? Let’s find out! What We Love: Simplistic, no-nonsense design and colour Solid, unobtrusive wearability A true GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) watch What We Don’t: Overshadowed by other Rolex models Lacks modern quality-of-life updates Date or no date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Consistency is a hard thing to come by in the watch industry. Very few brands have managed to achieve it, and even fewer watches can truly be called consistent hits. Off the top of my head, I can probably name only a handful of brands and models that have managed to not only succeed but hold that sweet spot. Longines, Vacheron Constantin, and even Panerai all come to mind — but if you want to talk about longevity, you have to talk about the Crown. Since their founding in 1905, Rolex has been one of the most consistent brands in history. The numbers speak for themselves: the company has held the number one spot for revenue in the luxury Swiss watch industry since at least 2017, according to the Morgan Stanley LuxeConsult reports. But the evidence also lies in their catalogue. Much of Rolex’s mainline collection has become inseparable from the brand’s identity, thanks to timeless, slow-changing designs, robust functionality, and uncompromising craftsmanship. Their watches have changed so little...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 2, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial

A. Lange & Söhne is a serious minded brand that rarely does fancy in terms of dials, so even a simple cosmetic makeover is novel for the brand. That’s true for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a pink gold dial that was just launched earlier this month, applying a striking new look to a technically compelling but arguably under-appreciated watch. Described officially as “pink gold” – it is actually solid gold – the dial is in a shade best known as “salmon”. This gives a vivid, fresh aesthetic to a watch that’s compact and surprisingly complex, combining a regulator-style display with a deadbeat seconds linked to a remontoir, as well as a hacking, zero-reset seconds. Initial thoughts The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has always been an interesting watch in technical terms; the movement is unusual in function but typical Lange in terms of quality. Calibres like this are tangible illustrations of Lange’s prowess in both engineering and aesthetics when it comes to movements. Despite being relatively complex, the Jumping Seconds is unusually compact for a complicated Lange watch, giving it surprisingly wearable dimensions. This gives the watch tangible and intellectual appeal. But the original versions, both with silver dials, were a little boring. The subsequent version with a black dial was high contrast and more appealing. The latest version with a pink gold dial is the easiest to like. It’s an eye-catching livery that does justice to the mechanics ...

Hands-on – The Vaer G5 Pacific Steel 39mm USA GMT, a True Traveller’s Watch at a Fair Price Monochrome
Casio ns Sure we’ve heard Sep 29, 2025

Hands-on – The Vaer G5 Pacific Steel 39mm USA GMT, a True Traveller’s Watch at a Fair Price

Vaer is an American brand founded in 2016 that specialises in accessible yet refined watches for all occasions. Sure, we’ve heard this theme countless times, but details add up to make Vaer’s offerings a bit different and special. The G5 Pacific Steel 39mm USA GMT is a prime example that offers true (or traveller’s) GMT […]

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer’s Latest Formula 1 Solargraph WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer s Latest Formula 1 Sep 26, 2025

Hands-On Review: TAG Heuer’s Latest Formula 1 Solargraph

TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 refresh blends the collection’s colourful 1986 spirit with modern materials and solar-powered convenience. From the versatile steel Silverstone GP to the lightweight, vibrant TH-Polylight Monza GP, these watches show that racing DNA can still be fun, practical, and stylish! What We Love Successfully brings the colorful spirit of the 1986 original models with modern materials and solargraph movement Collection offers versatility with steel and TH-Polylight materials Solargraph movement is the best option for the quartz model. No battery changes, long autonomy, and eco-friendly. What We Don’t TH-Polylight bezels/cases won’t have the same scratch resistance or perceived “luxury” feel as steel. With a 38mm case size, enthusiasts who like larger watches may find it too small. Limited editions tied to specific races may be hard to secure or try on before purchase. Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 The story of TAG Heuer and Formula 1 is one of new beginnings. A tale that starts not in a quiet Swiss valley, but on the screaming straights of Monaco, Silverstone, and Suzuka. The story goes all the way back to 1986, when the watchmaker, now freshly going under the wing of Techniques d’Avant Garde, forming TAG Heuer, built a timepiece that matched the energy of the sport that it sponsored: light, colourful, and unafraid to stand out. The Formula 1 collection was released dur...

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite When it Sep 25, 2025

Hands On: Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Meteorite

When it comes to planetarium wristwatches, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CvdK) has little competition, since it owns much of the intellectual property behind the complication. But that hasn’t stopped the brand from competing with itself, and the result the Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite, the most complete model of the solar system ever put in a wristwatch. It’s a maximalist approach to the planetarium concept that’s almost overwhelming in look and feel, thanks to the rich texture of its solid 44 mm meteorite case and busy dial. Building on the Grand Planetarium Eccentric from 2024, the Eccentric Meteorite manages to squeeze in the astroid belt, which is itself embellished with chunks of meteorite that originated on Mars. Intended to be a limited edition of three pieces, it’s possible that just two will be made given the limited quantity of meteorite on hand. The sun at the center of the dial functions as a running indicator, rotating once per minute. Initial thoughts The planetarium is among the most romantic of all complications due to its inherent uselessness; unlike a minute repeater or perpetual calendar, there’s not much action that can be taken with the information provided. But mankind has sought to understand its place in the universe for millennia, and the planetarium offers an intuitive way to visualise our real-time location relative to the sun and the other planets in our solar system. There’s also a strange appeal to the glacially slow speed of...

Hands-on – The Spirit of Mr Genta Chimes On in the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater Monochrome
Gerald Genta Sep 18, 2025

Hands-on – The Spirit of Mr Genta Chimes On in the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

A legend in his own lifetime and the name behind countless watch icons designed for other brands, Gérald Genta (1931-2011) also produced masterpieces for his eponymous brand founded in 1969, including the Grande Sonnerie, considered the most sophisticated and complex chiming watch in the world. The current custodian of the Gérald Genta brand is Louis […]

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 15, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel

The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and  functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Frederique Constant Sep 11, 2025

Is The New Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar Their Best Yet? (Hands-On)

As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem Worn & Wound
Sep 5, 2025

Hands-On: Renaud Tixier Introduces the Monday Organica by Oliver Vaucher, a Visually Stunning Solution to a Horological Problem

Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention.  The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us.  The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...

Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Behrens Sep 4, 2025

Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition

Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts.  Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy.  The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....