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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.

A Stunner: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre Sep 21, 2024

A Stunner: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184

Jaeger-LeCoultre creates some of the most complicated watches on the market. Today’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 is a stunning example of this. The movement may not be new, but it’s wildly impressive and sits in an equally mesmerizing pink gold case. This is one to savor for its details and artisanship. One of my […] Visit A Stunner: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 184 to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 WatchAdvice
Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770 Sep 20, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Baume & Mercier Riviera 10770

The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro” Worn & Wound
Minase Sep 19, 2024

Minase and Fratello Collaborate for the Third Time with the New M-3 “Shiro”

Minase, the independent Japanese watch brand, and our friends at watch media outlet Fratello have collaborated on a third edition of the brand’s cult favorite M-3. After versions in purple and green each of the last two years, this latest release strikes a more classic and refined tone. The new M-3 “Shiro” features a white lacquered dial and some subtle but well chosen accent colors, all with an eye toward traditional Japanese craft.  “Shiro” is Japanese for white, and in Japan is historically a sacred color symbolizing spiritual and physical purity. It’s a color that is frequently worn by Japanese Emperors, and comes up frequently in Shinto rituals and traditions. For this M-3, Minase has given the dial a weave-like texture that recalls the garments that might be worn in such rituals. The dial has been coated with Japanese lacquer, and the brand promises the result is a dynamic silvery color with plenty of depth.  Other callouts to Japanese culture include the red tipped second hand, a color that symbolizes good luck. The precise shade of red chosen for this edition, “Hinomaru,” translates roughly to “circle of the sun.” And the blue strap, according to Minase and Fratello, is a tribute to Japanese denim. Fratello and Minase see parallels in high craft denim to traditional watchmaking, noting that good denim, when taken care of, is meant to last a lifetime, just like a mechanical watch.  The original impetus for the Fratello x Minase collaborations ...

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Sep 16, 2024

First Look – The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Japan ‘Aiiro’ Limited Editions

Presented in 1975, the Laureato was Girard-Perregaux’s proposal of a luxury sports watch with a fully integrated bracelet, a round dial with an octagonal bezel, a tonneau-shaped case and a quartz movement. Produced three years after the Royal Oak but well before the Nautilus, the Laureato resurfaced in 2016 with limited editions followed by serial […]

Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials Worn & Wound
Baltic Celebrates Sep 16, 2024

Baltic Celebrates the Opening of their NYC Showroom with Limited Edition Prismic Stone Dials

New today from Baltic, a trio of limited edition versions of their Prismic “cocktail watch,” each with a colorful stone dial. The watches have been announced to celebrate Baltic’s new showrooms, one exotic dial for each. The Paris showroom is tied to the lapis lazuli dial, London to red agate, and New York gets green jade (as seen in the included photos). Stone dials are clearly having a moment, with approachable and affordable stone dial editions being released by many of our favorite brands over the course of the last year or so. Once considered extremely niche (and to be fair, it’s probably still pretty niche) stone dials are now seen as a way to have something genuinely unique on the wrist, as no two dials will be exactly the same. They’re also a natural fit for the Prismic collection, which is already set apart as something a little off the beaten track from Baltic’s heritage inspired sports watches.  As is the case with most stone dials, the texture and color of each stone takes center stage with these pieces. Each watch features simple applied hour markers and brushed dauphine hands, with Baltic’s wordmark near the 12:00 position and a small seconds register at 6:00. The case is the same five part design seen on the initial Prismic releases. It measures 36mm in diameter and is composed of both stainless steel (the bezel, lugs, and caseback) and titanium (the midcase, which has a contrasting “grain” finish). The original concept of the Prismic, a t...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding Last year Sep 16, 2024

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding

Last year Vacheron Constantin (VC) the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding ref. 82172, a fresh variant of the brand’s longstanding time-only dress watch. Combining an 18k pink gold case with a sunburst green dial, the new Traditionnelle is an unusual and bold twist on the traditional formal wear timepiece. Although compact in dimensions and formal in style, it stands out as dress watch that different without trying too hard. Initial thoughts The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is arguably VC’s quintessential dress watch. It has a traditional aesthetic and perfect proportions at 38 mm. And though it’s an entry-level model, it features upscale details like solid-gold indices and hands, along with a refined movement. The most familiar iteration of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is pink gold with a silver dial, which is classic but perhaps too plain for some. Similarly, most dress watches, VC or otherwise, tend to be in conservative colours, silver, cream, black and so on. The new Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, on the other hand, is a striking metallic green that’s flashy but not overly so. The combination is unconventional as a dress watch, but it works well. And it’s also one of the most affordable dress watches in the brand’s catalogue. Only the Patrimony 40 mm is less expensive but that has the slightly simpler cal. 1400 movement. The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding on the other hand sports the higher-end cal. 4400 AS, a large movement with a long power reserve that...

Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch Monochrome
Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT Sep 11, 2024

Hands-on – The Citizen Promaster Sky Mechanical GMT – A Powerful, Accessible True GMT Watch

Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different watches, all created with specific professional applications in mind. Celebrating its 35th anniversary this year, Citizen […]

For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models Fratello
Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer Sep 11, 2024

For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models

Do you want to hunt with the hounds and run with the hare? In that case, Seiko has got you covered. What? Is that too cryptic for you? If you want an ultra-precise quartz watch that connects to GPS satellites circling the globe and takes its energy from light but looks like a traditional, mechanical […] Visit For Those Who Just Want It Both Ways: Seiko Offers Three Prospex Speedtimer GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph Models to read the full article.

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur SJX Watches
Louis Erard Sep 11, 2024

Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur

Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Worn & Wound
Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Many are Sep 10, 2024

Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11

Many are quick to point to the venerable Seiko SKX and Seiko Turtle as being the best entry-level dive watches, even going as far as to label them as “must haves” in every collection. That being said, I have always gone a bit against the grain. Now don’t get me wrong, both of those watches have made their way into my permanent collection over the years with the Seiko SKX007 claiming its place as my first serious tool watch, though neither have managed to capture more wrist time than my Seiko Samurai. There is something about the angular architecture, the aggressive handset, and the considerably chunky feel on my wrist that has plucked a heart string within, leading me to argue in its defense and recommend it to those with large wrists akin to my own. So, when I learned that Seiko would be introducing a new generation of Samurai models this year with refined proportions and updated visuals, I jumped at the opportunity to add yet another one to my collection and ordered the red-dialed Seiko Samurai SRPL11. $575 Hands-On: the Redesigned Seiko Samurai SRPL11 Case Stainless steel Movement 4R35 Dial Red Lume Yes Lens Mineral Strap Bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 41.6 x 49mm Thickness 12.7mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $575 While other models in the Seiko lineup have ultimately remained the same over the years, the Seiko Samurai has seen quite a few changes in its relatively short lifetime. Since its inception in 2004, we have seen the...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith Fratello
Grand Seiko IWC Sep 4, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith

With €10K to spend, I decided to play it safe on the brand side and a little wilder on the color side. That’s why I ended up with a furiously red Grand Seiko, a sinister black IWC, and a Zenith that makes me slightly indecisive: do I decide on the version with the green or […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €10K - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, IWC, And Zenith to read the full article.

First Look – The Unique Jungle-Inspired Corum Golden Bridge Serpent Monochrome
Corum Golden Bridge Serpent Based Sep 1, 2024

First Look – The Unique Jungle-Inspired Corum Golden Bridge Serpent

Based on the principle of celebrating the aesthetic value of a mechanical movement, Corum’s iconic Golden Bridge collection finds its origin in a mechanical watch created and patented by Vincent Calabrese in 1977. Corum quickly acquired the patent and collaborated with Vincent Calabrese to put the watch into production. At the height of the quartz […]

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Celebrates Aug 30, 2024

Grand Seiko Celebrates a Big Spring Drive Anniversary with a Pair of Limited Editions

How long would it take you to invent an entirely new kind of watch movement? Five years? Ten years? If your answer was 27 years, you’d be on the right track. That’s how long it took the Spring Drive movement to go from idea to reality at Seiko. Initially conceived of by Yoshikazu Akahane in the 1970s, the development of the Spring Drive movement grew out of efforts to solve problems endemic to early quartz movements, though the project would not bear fruit until Baselworld 1999 when the first trio of Spring Drive watches was released to the public (something Akahane would, tragically, not live to see). Five years later, Spring Drive would finally reach Grand Seiko with the introduction of the 9R series of movements in 2004. 20 years later, the 9R series of Spring Drive calibers remain a core pillar of the Grand Seiko catalog, and GS is ready to celebrate that anniversary with the introduction of two profoundly autumnal limited editions. Each of these limited releases is powered by a Grand Seiko 9R series movement and each is inspired by the fiery red tones found throughout the Hotaka mountain range come fall. First up, we have the SBGY035, driven by a hand-wound Caliber 9R31 Spring Drive movement. Similar in execution and design to the popular SBGY007 Omiwatari, this thin dress watch claims inspiration from the vibrant leaves that coat the landscape of Hotaka each fall. An ombré finish made up of deep red tones is paired with a textured dial, and is accented by sparin...

Unimatic’s Latest LE is a Modello Cinque Made in Collaboration with the Armoury Worn & Wound
Unimatic Aug 30, 2024

Unimatic’s Latest LE is a Modello Cinque Made in Collaboration with the Armoury

Considered one of the finest menswear retailers on the planet, The Armoury has been dressing men since its inception in 2010. Since then, it’s grown to become as much a store as a brand itself. Under the discerning eye of founder Mark Cho, every element of The Armoury is a considered approach to traditional, classic, and lasting style. It’s no wonder, then, that their latest release, in partnership with Italian brand UNIMATIC, would hold these same values. The UNIMATIC x The Armoury Modello Cinque U5S-TA ‘Blu Notte’ is a timepiece that balances classic design elements without ever veering into the fussy – while also being incredibly contemporary in its approach to creating a timepiece for today as well as tomorrow. Designed to be a daily wear watch, this watch has just enough design elements to keep the eye interested without veering into being ostentatious. For instance, the rich blue dial is a perfect neutral, while the concentric circles pressed into the dial give it a bit of depth. This is then offset against a cool grey seconds rail and dial trims, and all brought together with white hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova for visibility in a variety of conditions (like, say, cocktails in your best suit). The watch comes with a  ‘Blu Notte’ tapered quick-release two-piece TPU strap and a nylon strap is also included for more versatility.  Within the 36mm stainless steel case is an automatic caliber Sellita SW200-1b, promising approximately 41...

Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera Fratello
Doxa Debuts Aug 30, 2024

Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera

Doxa is always one of the brands we keep a close eye on when Geneva Watch Days rolls around. This year, the brand has not disappointed with two major pieces of news. The first is a new left-hand-drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera. The second is the collection-wide rollout of the “Sea Emerald” green colorway. The […] Visit Deep-Diving Destro: Doxa Debuts The New Left-Hand-Drive Sub 300T Professional Aristera to read the full article.

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Limited Edition Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Aug 30, 2024

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite Limited Edition

Frederique Constant has updated its Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture with a premium 18k white gold case and green malachite dial that’s being released in limited numbers. It’s aesthetically similar to the British racing green (dial) steel variant from a few months ago, but is now much more premium with the change in materials. The watch […]

First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m Monochrome
Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Aug 23, 2024

First Look – The Citizen Promaster 35th Anniversary “Fujitsubo” Titanium Diver 200m

If you’re an avid diver and watch enthusiast, the name Promaster should be more than familiar. Created by Japanese watchmaker Citizen in 1989 as a brand to meet the needs of professionals working in the most challenging environments of the land, sea, and sky, Promaster has grown to a collection that includes over 30 different […]

Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Things have Aug 9, 2024

Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante

Things have changed an awful lot since the last time I reviewed a watch by Furlan Marri. That was all the way back in March 2021, and it was their debut release. It’s worth pointing out that at the time, the brand had virtually no public footprint, and I had to be somewhat cajoled into taking the assignment. But the humble, meca-quartz chronograph that put them on the map was genuinely impressive in the way it conveyed vintage watch design codes in an affordable package that, somehow, felt premium. I remember thinking that for the price Furlan Marri was asking for that watch (a pre-order deal of $330) you’d be hard pressed to find anything with better finishing or a more coherent point of view about what it’s trying to accomplish.  Just a few years later, and Furlan Marri is in a very different position. It happened fast. Those meca-quartz chronos hit the market and were an immediate sensation, getting the thumbs up from John Goldberger and other notable collectors. It put an immediate heir of legitimacy around Furlan Marri, something that the best small brands get eventually, but not typically with such speed. When your debut watch, a battery powered homage that costs a few hundred dollars, is selling for many times its retail price on the secondary market, heads start turning rather quickly.  $2780 Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Case Stainless steel Movement Peseux 7001 Dial Celeste (blue/white), Verde (green/cream) Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Wa...

Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie Fratello
Casio ak DJ Willie Aug 5, 2024

Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie

With Steamboat Willie now in the public domain, the film’s main character is ready to let loose! In this second Steamboat Willie-inspired release, IFL Watches lets Willie work the crowd as a DJ on the dial of a G-Shock CasiOak. The hand-painted dial lights up under UV light to brighten up Willie’s party. It creates […] Visit Attention, Party People! - IFL Watches Introduces The G-Shock CasiOak DJ Willie to read the full article.

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Aug 1, 2024

Bulova Precisionist: The Most Underrated Movement in the Watch Industr

Newcomers to the watch appreciation game can be forgiven for reflexively, and solely, crediting the Japanese with bringing electronics into the mainstream of the watch industry, but the embryonic phase of the technology took place in the United States. And the most accurate electronic movement on the market today emerged from the synergy between one of America's most historic home-grown watch manufacturers and one of Japan's most innovative pioneers of timekeeping technology. It's called the Precisionist, it's exclusive to Bulova, and while you may not have heard of it or know much about it, it's becoming a fixture in several Bulova watches that increasingly demand enthusiast attention. Bulova, founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, was one of the first watchmakers in the world to seriously explore the development of electronics in wristwatch movements. In 1960, just a few years after another American watch manufacturer, Hamilton, had introduced its flawed but groundbreaking electric-powered Ventura (more on that here), Bulova unveiled its own high-tech timepiece, the Accutron Spaceview 214. The watch took its numerical designation from its movement, Caliber 214, a revolutionary mechanism in which the balance wheel, which drives the timekeeping in a mechanical movement, was replaced by a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator. This system ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz - nearly 150 times faster than tha...

Heating Up the Windy City with Watches: Recapping the 2024 Windup Watch Fair Chicago Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Jul 29, 2024

Heating Up the Windy City with Watches: Recapping the 2024 Windup Watch Fair Chicago

It may be hard to believe, but it’s already been two weeks since the sun set on Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. What’s not hard to believe is that, over three days in the Windy City, summer’s hottest watch fair hosted more visitors than ever before. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was no wonder the crowds were willing to brave a heat wave to experience what was unquestionably a very special show. Above all else, we want to thank everyone who made their way to Venue West for what was a very fun weekend, whether you walked, took the train, drove, or even flew to Chicago, it was a pleasure to have you all-Windup wouldn’t be what it is without the enthusiasts of all stripes who come out to enjoy the show. To those who weren’t able to make it to Chicago this summer, we’re certainly sorry to have missed you, and we hope this recap (and some of our others!) can give you a taste of what the weekend was about and inspire you to attend the next Windup Watch Fair. In the meantime, here’s a video recap to give you a sense of what to expect! An incredible group of brands anchored the energetic Fair; Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, and Oris-all of whom helped set the mood for a remarkable show and who we were thrilled to see return as lead sponsors. There is no doubt that their presence continues to help Windup level up, and we are incredibly grateful for their continued support. Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Windup couldn’t exist wit...

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Jul 25, 2024

Four of the Biggest Surprises from Chicago’s Windup Watch Fair

If you’ve never had the pleasure of attending a Windup Watch Fair in person, it’s hard to express the energy in the room or the unavoidable concentration of enthusiasm that greets you when you step through the doors. From the moment the show opens on Friday to the minute it closes on Sunday, every Windup is a marathon of excited conversation, new friends, and constant discovery - all bound by a vague sense of risk, a sense that (if you should stop and stare for a little too long) you may be walking out of Windup with something new tucked away in your bag and a slightly lighter wallet. Of course, for all their similarities, no two Windups are the same. The character of each host city plays a huge part in this - it’s hard to quantify the difference between a bay-side view in San Francisco in May and a downtown October day in New York City - but throw in different brands, different people, different venues, and (possibly most importantly) different watches and you’ll find that every Windup comes with the distinct chance to surprise. So, to that end, with a few days between me and the end of Windup Chicago 2024, I thought I would take a moment to fill you in on some of the watches and moments that surprised me at this summer’s hottest watch fair. NATO’s Don’t Need Holes It seems like a fitting place to start this endeavor would be with the only booth at Windup Chicago that got me to pull out my wallet not once, but twice. Like so many of us, I go absolutely...