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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

4,702 articles · 45 videos found · page 66 of 159

Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House SJX Watches
Mar 27, 2026

Felipe Pikullik Goes Fully In-House

Berlin-based Felipe Pikullik presents his second in-house caliber inside the Sternenhimmel FPA1. The independent’s attempt at a refined workhorse-like movement comes in the form of the newly-developed caliber FPA1, designed to power a range of future creations.  Initial thoughts Mr Pikullik’s emergence into the crowded independent watchmaking scene was based on heavily skeletonised off-the-shelf movements. As he gained a reputation for deft finishing and began to consolidate his workshop, he slowly but surely transitioned toward in-house engineering. Starting with his own complication modules, the German watchmaker’s first truly in-house effort came with last year’s Moonphase II collection, which saw the launch of the calibre FPMP2.  The openworked construction featured a moon phase and 24-hour indicator but, while undoubtedly well-crafted, it arguably lacked a cohesive design language. Its distinctive architecture also made it unsuitable as the foundation for a wider range of pieces. In contrast, the updated Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) features what the independent watchmaker describes as a cornerstone movement for future models. The FPA1 is consequently far more grounded and classical in construction, yet manages to avoid the trap of looking too much like any other artisanal time-only calibre. The ornate backside of the FPA1 caliber. This specific iteration of the Sternenhimmel design is decidedly more modern and technically-oriented, with a flo...

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer Worn & Wound
Omega s New Constellation Observatory Mar 27, 2026

Omega’s New Constellation Observatory Collection Debuts, with a First for a Certified Chronometer

Omega pleased a lot of dress watch and vintage fans this week when they launched the new Constellation Observatory collection at their Swiss headquarters. Zach Weiss is on the ground in Bielle even as we speak getting hands-on with the new watches, and he’ll have a full hands on report with his own photography coming soon. For now, a quick rundown of the new collection, and why it’s a fairly major play for the brand.  The Constellation is a historic Omega collection that has changed a lot through the years, always remaining flexible with the current styles and trends of the day. This collection, though, is a direct shot at the hearts and minds of Omega purists, as its effectively a recreation of the original 1950s Constellation in its broad strokes. The cases and dials will be familiar to anyone who has collected or admired original Constellations, with highly angular cases and distinctive dogleg lug design.  That said, these are not one to one recreations of watches from the 1950s. The cases, on paper at least, are rather large for what most would agree is a riff on a classic dress watch. The diameter is 39.4mm, and case height is 12.23mm. The lug to lug span comes in at 47.2mm. So, not small by any means, but we’ll look forward to Zach’s impressions of how they actually wear soon enough.  As is typical with Omega these days, we have a wide variety of case material and dial options available. We get all three gold alloys that Omega likes to deploy (Sedna, Canop...

Video - How Does it Work? The Sympathique Clock of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Explained by Denis Flageollet Monochrome
Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Explained Mar 27, 2026

Video - How Does it Work? The Sympathique Clock of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Explained by Denis Flageollet

As you might remember, Louis Vuitton and De Bethune recently introduced the third chapter in LV’s ongoing journey through independent watchmaking, the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, following the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie made with Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Atelier Akrivia, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 made with Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. While we were expecting to […]

Hands-On Impressions of the Updated Longines HydroConquest Worn & Wound
Longines HydroConquest When we talk Mar 26, 2026

Hands-On Impressions of the Updated Longines HydroConquest

When we talk about Longines on the website, we usually do so in the context of their vintage reissues and vintage inspired watches. They’ve carved out a niche for themselves in this particular area that is basically unrivaled among the big Swiss brands. From the Legend Diver onwards, they’ve done a remarkable job of raiding the archives and bringing back both popular and oddball references of historical significance. Similarly, their most important contemporary line, the Spirit Collection, is itself heavily influenced by the aesthetics and design codes of midcentury watches.  That isn’t to say that Longines has neglected more contemporary designs. They’ve dipped into ultra-modern territory (with a great deal of success) pretty recently with bold updates to the Ultra-Chron, for example. But I think it’s fair to say that they aren’t necessarily the brand you look to if you’re thinking about picking up a solid, modern dive watch. It’s just not their lane, and some of their competitors have really nailed this genre down pretty hard.  So this is the framework for a big relaunch this Spring for the HydroConquest, a line that has already gone through a handful of redesigns and shuffling over the years, most recently becoming a vehicle for a GMT complication in a case size that frankly strains even the most burly of wrists. There’s never really been anything wrong with the HydroConquest, per se, but for a variety of reasons it’s not usually mentioned in the s...

Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer Teddy Baldassarre
Squale Mar 25, 2026

Squale Watches Review: A Dive Watch Pioneer

[toc-section heading="Squale Overview"]  Squale is a historic manufacture with a particular specialty in the realm of dive watches. The company’s heritage is deeper than you may realize, as it extends beyond its own footprint, touching an extensive list of partners that helped to shape the dive-watch genre as we know it today. The story of Squale is one of intrigue, and while it became a well known case supplier through the ‘60s and ‘70s, the Swiss brand also boasted a collection of its own designs that hold as well today as they did then. Understanding Squale means taking a step back into the era that birthed it, an era defined by the burgeoning sport of recreational diving as well as the advent of military diving operations.  If you’re a fan of dive watches and the history of their use, Squale is a brand that should be on your radar thanks to its plentiful contributions. Beyond that, collectors will find a vast array of designs in the brand’s modern catalog that both break new ground and preserve the best portions of its history. In this overview, we’ll connect all the dots from then to now.  [toc-section heading="History and Heritage"]  Squale was founded by Charles von Büren in 1959 in the beautiful lakeside town of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. While that’s the official date, von Büren had been assembling watches under his own name for the prior decade, meaning he brought some pedigree to the name from the get-go. The modern dive watch genre was in its ...

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Today Mar 25, 2026

Hazemann & Monnin Wins 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize

Today in Paris a panel of five judges – including Carole Forestier-Kasapi and Kari Voutilainen – presented Alexandre Hazemann and Victor Monnin with the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The very same young watchmakers who won the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2023, the pair clinched the prize for their jump-hour “School Watch”. Launched in 2023 by Jean Arnault, who has spearheaded Louis Vuitton’s fine watchmaking ambitions, the initiative supports promising independent watchmakers while burnishing the maison’s credibility in the watch world. Last year the trophy – and its matching Louis Vuitton trunk – went to Raul Pages for his RP1 Régulateur à Détente. This edition’s victors met at Lycée Edgar Faure, a technical high school in Morteau, France, which is well known for its strong and respected watch and jewellery bent. Their aptly named School Watch developed from the pair’s school watch project. They have since set up shop in Saint-Aubin-Sauges, Switzerland, though both will now have the option of a one-year apprenticeship at Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture in Geneva, in addition to financial support. In December, a Committee culled the 20 semifinalists, which we covered here, down to just five in December and appointed a five-person panel to select the winner. Other finalists included Norifumi Seki, who debuted the ambitious Fading Hours alarm watch, and Bernhard Lederer. Carole Forestier-Kasapi pr...

Hands-On With The New Merci Instruments Beaumarchais Collection - A Sextet Of Thoughtful And Affordable Watches Fratello
Mar 25, 2026

Hands-On With The New Merci Instruments Beaumarchais Collection - A Sextet Of Thoughtful And Affordable Watches

A decade ago, Arthur Gerbi, founder of the Merci concept store at 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais in Paris, introduced the first watch under the Merci Instruments name. Like John Mayer at the time, he felt that traditional watchmaking houses no longer adequately accounted for the expectations of true enthusiasts. The watches under the Merci Instruments brand […] Visit Hands-On With The New Merci Instruments Beaumarchais Collection - A Sextet Of Thoughtful And Affordable Watches to read the full article.

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium SJX Watches
Hublot then Mar 25, 2026

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

IWC started the year with a dramatic new look for a classic, the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium. Almost 30 years old but ageless, the Portugieser Chronograph gains an all-black look and Ceratanium case with this appealing, but pricey, limited edition that encapsulates the brand’s strengths and weaknesses. Initial thoughts In the mid to late 2000s, the all-black look was one the major fads in watchmaking, having been pioneered by Hublot, then at the beginning of its renaissance led by Jean-Claude Biver. All-black watches were everywhere yet desirable, and some even sold for multiples of retail. The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is two decades late for that fad, and too early for the next one. But it is still an appealing watch in itself, though expensive compared to the standard version. It’s essentially a Portugieser chronograph dressed entirely in black with a case in ceramic-coated titanium. As a result, it has of the elements that make the model appealing: a symmetrical design, good proportions, slimness, and a distinctive style despite the simplicity. The all-black livery adds to the design, since it goes well with the clean styling. Though complementary aesthetically, the all-black finish and Portugieser design don’t quite pair conceptually, since the Portugieser is a historically inspired dress watch. Despite the incongruity, the Ceratanium chronograph looks and feels good on the wrist. More broadly, the watch illustrates IWC’s strengths and weakness...

News - Hazemann & Monnin Wins the 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Mar 24, 2026

News - Hazemann & Monnin Wins the 2026 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives

Introduced in 2024 as a project to encourage independent watchmaking, the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives has gathered great interest among the watch community, depsite being backed up by the world’s largest luxury conglomerates. A truly interesting initiative in the field of independent and high-end horology, it now a biennial prize that celebrates […]

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? - Featuring Citizen, Seiko, Baltic, Doxa, Certina, And More Fratello
Citizen Seiko Baltic Doxa Certina Mar 24, 2026

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? - Featuring Citizen, Seiko, Baltic, Doxa, Certina, And More

Dive watches remain the most democratic category in watchmaking. While certain icons now cost several thousand euros, the truth is that the core DNA of the dive watch, robustness, legibility, and reliability, is still alive and well in far more accessible territory. In fact, €1,000 might just be the sweet spot. At this level, you’ll […] Visit What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? - Featuring Citizen, Seiko, Baltic, Doxa, Certina, And More to read the full article.

First Look - High Horology Meets Playful Memory, with the Unexpected Krayon PAC-MAN Series Monochrome
Krayon Mar 23, 2026

First Look - High Horology Meets Playful Memory, with the Unexpected Krayon PAC-MAN Series

Krayon, founded by Rémi Maillat, is a highly focused, conceptually consistent independent watchmaking brand. Since its debut in 2017 with the groundbreaking Everywhere, it has explored a singular theme: our relationship with time as shaped by sunlight, geography, and personal experience. From Everywhere to Anywhere and, more recently, Anyday, each creation has translated complex astronomical […]

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level Fratello
Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Mar 23, 2026

Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level

Last week, I reported on a new high-end Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition with a beautiful green washi (Japanese paper) dial. In the same week, Citizen also introduced two new watches powered by a brand-new Eco-Drive caliber. The new lightweight Photon models feature state-of-the-art dials that combine an intriguing design with the latest in Citizen’s […] Visit Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient Star M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m Fratello
Orient Mar 22, 2026

Introducing: The Orient Star M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m

Orient Star keeps the good times rolling with its next 75th-anniversary timepiece. As part of the Sports Collection M42, this Japanese dive watch complies with the ISO 6425 standard for diving timepieces. Because of this, it can officially be labeled with “Diver’s” and also state the 200m depth rating. The stringent tests ensure this watch […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m to read the full article.

Introducing - The 1000-Hour Power Reserve Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica, with Fully Exposed Mechanics Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin where he was involved Mar 20, 2026

Introducing - The 1000-Hour Power Reserve Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica, with Fully Exposed Mechanics

Haute-Rive is a relatively young independent watchmaking atelier launched by Stéphane Von Gunten, previously the R&D; Director of Ulysse Nardin, where he was involved with filing no fewer than 30 patents. Quite a background. The first watch created under his own brand was the Honoris, and it was a powerful release, to say the least. A […]

The 25 Best German Watch Brands (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 20, 2026

The 25 Best German Watch Brands (2026)

In general, a conversation about the top watch producing countries centers around two nations: Switzerland and Japan, with Japan often occupying the more affordable end of the spectrum and Switzerland more commonly associated with luxury watches and high watchmaking. Of course, this is an overgeneralization of the highest degree, as Japan is home to some of the finest purveyors of high watchmaking, and there are indeed great deals to be found from Switzerland.  However, the real tragedy here is the omission of the often overlooked superpower in watchmaking that is Germany. Home to dozens of brands, including some of the best in the business according to a variety of metrics, Germany is an excellent country for watchmaking. In this article, we’ll be taking a look at some of the best German watch brands to provide an overview of names you should know if you’re new to German watches. In each synopsis, We'll begin with a bit of history, share a few of the brands' major accomplishments or best-loved models, and say a bit about what they’re up to these days. [toc-section heading="Laco"] Laco began life as Lacher & Co. in 1925 in Pforzheim, where it is still based today. The company is most famously known for being one of the five brands contracted to produce flieger watches (such as the Beobachtungsuhr) for pilots in the German Luftwaffe ― alongside A. Lange & Söhne, Stowa, and Wempe. The Laco of today continues to be popular for its flieger watches. And unlike IWC an...

Portrait - Talking To Daizoh Makihara, AHCI Candidate And LV Watch Prize Finalist Monochrome
Mar 20, 2026

Portrait - Talking To Daizoh Makihara, AHCI Candidate And LV Watch Prize Finalist

Japanese culture is full of superbly interesting and ancient crafts, which every now and then find their way into a watch. Some of the best-known examples are Urushi lacquering, Washi paper, and Arita porcelain, but there are dozens of other crafts deeply embedded in the country’s history and tradition. Japanese independent watchmaker and AHCI-member Daizoh […]

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 Mar 20, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Malachite 37 mm

Audemars Piguet expands its stone‑dial lineup with the new Royal Oak Self-Winding 37 mm and 41 mm in yellow‑gold featuring malachite dials, continuing the brand’s cautious re-exploration of trendy stone dials. Initial thoughts Last month Bad Bunny, the most-streamed musician in the western hemisphere, took the field for the Super Bowl LX halftime show wearing this yellow gold Royal Oak Selfwinding 37mm. A design as recognisable as any in watchmaking, worn on the wrist of the “King of Latin Trap” in front of over a hundred million viewers - a significant marketing coup for Audemars Piguet. It was also an implicit endorsement from Bad Bunny’s stylist Storm Pablo, who procured the watch within days of its announcement. Bad Bunny during the Apple Music Super Bowl LX halftime show. Image – Apple Pricing remains surprisingly reasonable, with the 37 mm pegged to the same price as the turquoise-dialled sibling from a few years ago, while the 41 mm model is priced just 4% higher than a regular production Royal Oak in pink gold. That’s a large step up in absolute terms, but that comes with the (price) territory. It is important to point out that despite the premiums brands often attach to stone dials, most are not particularly expensive to make. When it comes to malachite, the raw material cost is negligible, with African mines in and around the Copperbelt producing gemstone-quality malachite by the literal ton. Audemars Piguet made the right choice by avoiding t...

The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style Fratello
Citizen s Quest Mar 19, 2026

The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style

When I read the press information for the Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition, I couldn’t believe it has been five decades since the Japanese brand introduced its first Eco-Drive-powered watch. That’s especially surprising when I put it into personal perspective, as it happened a year before I was born. In my mind, Eco-Drive technology still […] Visit The Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition Celebrates Citizen’s Quest For Accuracy In Style to read the full article.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Review: Utility Meets Horology Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Mar 19, 2026

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Review: Utility Meets Horology

Blancpain, founded in the Swiss village of Villeret in 1735, has been making timepieces for almost 300 years, but perhaps its most impactful contribution to wristwatch history was relatively recent - and began its heralded life as a military tool rather than a luxury item. In 1953,  Blancpain was headed by Jean-Jacques Fiechter, an avid diving enthusiast who had long wanted to develop a watch that would be ideal for his hobby. Fiechter worked with Captain Robert Maloubier, a French naval officer, to design a reliable, mission-ready timepiece that Maloubier’s elite combat diving team could wear. Here we will take a look at the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, a more everyday take on the iconic diver. [toc-section heading="Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: A Historic Divers’ Watch"] The watch, called the Fifty Fathoms, had a 42mm steel case - exceptionally large for the time - and it was water-resistant to 91.45 meters, or 50 fathoms, the maximum depth recommended for scuba divers. Its dial was black and its numerals were luminescent for greater legibility underwater. It was the first divers’ watch with a self-winding movement, the first with an antimagnetic case, and the first to employ the patented, double-sealed crown that Fiechter had developed. Most notably, the Fifty Fathoms was the first watch to include a lockable bezel with dive-time scale that rotated in only one direction. This practical and potentially life-saving innovation prevented a diver from acciden...

Introducing - Awake Son Mai Silver Leaf “Atlantis Blue” Monochrome
Mar 19, 2026

Introducing - Awake Son Mai Silver Leaf “Atlantis Blue”

Awake, the young Parisian-based indie brand founded by Lilian Thibault in 2019, is a keen advocate of sustainability and fosters an eco-friendly approach to watchmaking. Introduced in 2024, Awake’s Son Mai collection is a fitting spokesperson for the brand’s philosophy and features handcrafted lacquered dials created by Vietnamese artisans. Combining minimalist design to highlight the […]

Inspired by the Lunar Surface, Yema Introduces the Superman Titanium MoonTide Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster but serving as Mar 18, 2026

Inspired by the Lunar Surface, Yema Introduces the Superman Titanium MoonTide

What is it about the moon? Earth’s only satellite has been an inspiration to watchmakers for as long as watchmaking has been a thing. The moonphase of course is the perhaps the most romantic of all complications (at least in a contemporary setting where the actual use case is somewhat unnecessary for almost everyone), and finds its way into a surprising number of watches aimed at the mass market. If you think about it, there are probably thousands upon thousands of ordinary people looking at little renderings of a moon whenever they check the time, perhaps unaware of the long history of the astronomical complication and what it represents.  And then of course there’s the moon and space travel, which gets you into an entirely different segment of watches, led of course by the Omega Speedmaster but serving as a home to an enormous variety of watches from brands as diverse as Seiko, Sinn, and G-SHOCK, all of whom claim either officially or unofficially some connection to manned spaceflight. The moon looms large in a number of ways.  So it should come as no surprise that it also serves as a purely aesthetic inspiration, which brings us to the Yema Superman Titanium MoonTide, a new limited edition from the French brand clad in our favorite lightweight metal and designed to conjure images of the lunar surface. The Superman, for anyone who might need a refresher, is Yema’s core dive watch, originally launched in the 1960s heyday of recreational diving. It features a uniqu...