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Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier in Steel SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Capitalizing Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier in Steel

The Cartier Tank is quite possibly the most iconic rectangular wristwatch, matched only in its longevity and enduring appeal by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Capitalizing on the popularity of the Tank, Cartier has reintroduced the Tank Must de Cartier name as an entire model family at Watches & Wonders 2021. Initial Thoughts The Tank Must de Cartier was born in 1977, in the throes of the quartz crisis. The Must de Cartier was the jeweler’s answer to the upheaval within the industry – it marked the first time the Tank was produced at an industrial scale and was also the first time the model was not produced in precious metal. The Tank Must de Cartier borrowed the shape of the Tank Louis Cartier – whereas the brancards of the 1917 original were flat, those of the Tank Louis Cartier are gently rounded. I am a fan of the new collection. Not only is the Must de Cartier probably the most recognizable of the Tank range, but the new watches are handsome and a surprisingly good value proposition. The new Tank Must de Cartier is a comprehensive family that is sure to become a bestseller – not only is there a model at every price point, from entry-level steel to more glitzy diamond-paved variants, but the models are also available in a dizzying number of sizes and movement configurations. Tank Must de Cartier The classic silver-dialed model with Roman numerals, railroad minutes track, and blued steel hands is available in steel in three sizes: small, large, and extra-large. ...

The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee Time+Tide
Rolex story Apr 7, 2021

The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee

There was a major Rolex announcement hidden in plain sight today. It was not mentioned during Rolex’s Watches & Wonders presentation, but our team of sleuth detectives realised that on Rolex.com the model configurator tool will allow buyers to put the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi & Batman on an Oyster bracelet once again. On … ContinuedThe post The sleeper Rolex story is that the Batman and Pepsi are back on Oyster and Sky-Dweller is available on Jubilee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon) SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 7, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon)

A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2014.  Still the most complicated Lange 1 in the line up, the watch combined an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a discreet tourbillon only visible on the back side. Fast forward seven years later, Lange finally unveils a simplified version – but still a complicated watch – the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, now without the tourbillon. Two variants are available: in pink gold with a grey dial, or in white gold with a solid pink gold dial. Initial thoughts At a glance, one can be forgiven for thinking this is another version of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon. It is, however, a completely new model that distills the design to focus on a fascinating perpetual calendar, without the added complexity and cost of a tourbillon. In typical Lange style, there were no shortcuts taken: the watch is powered by a new(ish) movement, rather than the same calibre minus the tourbillon. The removal of the tourbillon makes it more accessible, but the new watch is still a hefty €98,000 with the grey dial (and a bit more for the pink gold). At the same time, it might dilute the status of the pricier, flagship tourbillon variant. Nevertheless, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is intrinsically an exemplary perpetual calendar – in both construction and design – especially the pink gold dial (or “salmon”) being a trendy colour that would likely be the more popular choice. An upgraded moonphase ...

A. Lange & Söhne Refreshes the Triple Split in Style SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 7, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Refreshes the Triple Split in Style

When A. Lange & Söhne first introduced the Triple Split in 2018, it was an incremental improvement over the Double Split but still a landmark, being the first watch capable of recording twin elapsed times of up to 12 hours. Lange remains the only watchmaker to offer a split-seconds chronograph of this magnitude. And now at Watches & Wonders 2021 it is unveiling the Triple Split in a new guise of pink gold and a blue dial. Initial thoughts Interestingly, Watches & Wonders 2021 marks the first major watch fair where Lange has not introduced any new timepieces with either a silver or black dial. Instead, the new Lange models all feature bold dial colours that break away from tradition – and I’m all for it. The new Triple Split is a merely facelift of the original, which had a dark grey dial and white gold case that gave it an austere characteristic of Lange. In contrast, the new model sheds its predecessor’s sternness with the rich combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, allowing it to come across as significantly more contemporary. I really like the new look. It’s eminently striking, while also being intriguing as it’s an unusual colour combination for Lange, which typically makes its watches with either silver or black dials. I particularly like the rhodium-coloured sub-dials, that contrast distinctly against the blue dial. Regardless of colour, the Triple Split is a magnificently complicated watch, one of the most complicated that Lange produces. Arguab...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 delivers a strong new vintage-inspired collection Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 delivers Apr 7, 2021

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 delivers a strong new vintage-inspired collection

The Aquaracer is many people’s first Good Watch and has become a well-loved collection from TAG Heuer. The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 collection presents a strong vintage-inspired vibe including a razor-sharp limited edition that ticks all of my boxes. The Aquaracer might seem very familiar, but TAG Heuer has successfully transformed the range, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300 delivers a strong new vintage-inspired collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Privé Cloche Skeleton SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Privé Cloche Skeleton

Starting four years ago, Cartier has utilised the Privé collection to relaunch many of its most classic designs, typically in small production runs. It started with the Crash Radieuse in 2017, which was followed by the Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, and last year’s Tank Asymétrique. Not unexpectedly, Cartier has continued this with the Cloche de Cartier, in both skeletonised and traditional formats. Though the form is novel, the Cloche is a long-established case design for the Parisian jeweller. Its asymmetry allows it to double up as a small desk clock, with the flat side of the case resting on the desktop. The shape made its first appearance as a wristwatch in 1921, with a platinum case set with diamonds according to Cartier. Reputedly inspired by the shape of a service bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche remained in production, albeit in tiny numbers, until a relaunch as a quartz watch in the Louis Cartier collection. The two most recent iterations of the Cloche came in 1995 and 2007, the first a limited run of 200 in yellow gold, the second 100 in yellow gold as part of the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP). Harking back to the first Cloche wristwatch of 1921 – the platinum skeleton set with diamonds Initial thoughts The watches of the Privé collection – Cloche, Crash, Tank Cintree, and Tank Asymétrique – exemplify what Cartier does best. To call these watches unconventional would be an understatement – they were radical when they each ...

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase Aventurine SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 7, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Unveils the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase Aventurine

First unveiled in 2009 as a ladies’ watch, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the petite sibling of the full-sized Lange 1 Moon Phase. Previously available with a guilloche dial, as well as the silver-and-blue livery for the brand’s 25th anniversary, the model now gets a sparkly new look with the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase Aventurine. And because it’s historically been a women’s timepiece, the new model includes a variant with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. Initial thoughts Lange seemingly used the entry-level Saxonia to gauge the demand for aventurine glass (back in 2018). Consumers no doubt responded with a resounding yes, because we now see the same material in the Lange 1, the brand’s flagship product line. The new Little Lange 1 is a showstopper with its aventurine glass dial. Lange’s watches are mostly equipped with either a silver or black dial, possessing a sort of German austerity. However, in recent years Lange has been experimenting with dials in atypical colours or materials – like the recent Saxonia that also has an aventurine-glass dial – and the new Little Lange 1 Moon Phase continues that trend. The aventurine dial works even better here than it does on the time-only Saxonia due to the thematic congruence with the moon phase. Meant to evoke a “bright moonlit night” according to Lange, the dial does look stunning in the press photos. And although I’m not usually a fan of bling, the diamond bezel is well integrated into the des...

INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Apr 7, 2021

INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera

Revisiting a distinct design with roots from 1973, Baume & Mercier has reinvented their Riviera range and we caught just as it was putting its gloves on and jumping into the ring to battle it out. What was it fighting for? I am, of course, talking about the legendary Integrated Bracelet Middleweight Belt and, yes, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising Time+Tide
Rolex Collection ranked from least Apr 7, 2021

The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising

Rolex is known for incremental change so “surprising” is not really the brand’s forte. Having said that, the new range definitely contains some curveballs this year, both in terms of the Crown’s choices and a few unexpected pieces in particular. That’s why I decided to rank all of the new 2021 Rolex Collection novelties from … ContinuedThe post The 2021 Rolex Collection ranked from least to most surprising appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar breaks the brand’s 7th world record since 2014 Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar breaks the brand’s 7th world record since 2014

“Can’t stop, won’t stop breaking world records,” might be the mantra of the Bulgari watchmaking department, because that’s exactly what they keep doing. Year after year since 2014, the Italian manufacturer has relentlessly achieved new benchmarks for thinness in horology, building their credibility as a force to be reckoned with faster than almost any brand … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar breaks the brand’s 7th world record since 2014 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turns 100 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turns 100

Most watch brands will never make their 100th birthday. In fact, very few companies from any industry are able to build successful businesses over several generations. Time is as unrelenting as it is unforgiving, so when something is able to stand the test of time, we can only applaud the strength of will behind it. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turns 100 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Shaken Not Stirred: The Drinking Habits Of 007 James Bond (And Why They Bought 8,400 Gallons Of Coca-Cola For ‘No Time To Die’) Quill & Pad
Apr 6, 2021

Shaken Not Stirred: The Drinking Habits Of 007 James Bond (And Why They Bought 8,400 Gallons Of Coca-Cola For ‘No Time To Die’)

“I take a ridiculous pleasure in what I eat and drink,” James Bond says to Vesper Lynd in Ian Fleming’s first 007 novel, 'Casino Royale.' And so starts the adventures, not solely libationary and culinary, of one of the great fictional characters in the world. Rarely has anyone, fictional or not, influenced the eating and drinking habits of humanity to the extent managed by MI6’s finest. Ken Gargett takes a look at a few of Bond's favorite tipples, and there were quite a few.

INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance Time+Tide
Cartier collection Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance

The word icon gets thrown around a lot in the watch industry. Every manufacturer wants one and you can understand why. But  the Cartier Tank is without a doubt one of the fundamental pillars of watch design in the last century. While the Santos-Dumont collection has received a lot of attention from the brand in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tank Louis Cartier collection is a revival of Art Deco flamboyance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: How does the new IWC Big Pilot 43 differ from the original Big Pilot 46? Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 differ Apr 6, 2021

VIDEO: How does the new IWC Big Pilot 43 differ from the original Big Pilot 46?

Back when I was first dipping my toes into the waters of watch enthusiasm, the IWC Big Pilot was one of the first luxury watches that captured my admiration. I had no means to afford it at the time, and I did not have the level of understanding I do today, but its utility and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How does the new IWC Big Pilot 43 differ from the original Big Pilot 46? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Many watch Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection

Many watch enthusiasts have become caught up with the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The aforementioned brands and references have reigned supreme in the integrated stainless-steel category for decades, but the challenge of sourcing one at retail has led many to finally give due credit to the equally fascinating Vacheron Constantin Overseas. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Sport with an Integrated Bracelet SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Apr 6, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Sport with an Integrated Bracelet

Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillons, Greubel Forsey builds movements with unique three-dimensionality and exemplary finishing. In 2019, it started applying its unusual brand of watchmaking to the sports watch for the first time with the GMT Sport – a world time with inclined tourbillon – and now follows up with the new GMT Sport that has the same movement but the addition of an integrated titanium bracelet, a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Although the integrated-bracelet sports watch may be new for Greubel Forsey, it’s now a familiar and fashionable concept. Greubel Forsey is relatively late to the party – beyond veterans like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, such sports watches are already found at almost every price point, from Citizen’s US$2,000 Series 8 to the Lange Odysseus. That said, the GMT Sport is noteworthy for one simple reason – it’s the most complicated, and perhaps best finished, integrated-bracelet sports watch money can buy, combining a world time, dual time, and an inclined tourbillon. So while Greubel Forsey took its time with the concept, the brand certainly executed it in style. I much prefer the new GMT Sport over the earlier version. For one, the bezel is now plain, devoid of the tiny, relief inscriptions that are something of a Greubel Forsey signature but don’t quite work on a sports watch. The dial is now entirely in blue, giving the new GMT Sport a more modern look (that admittedly is also fashionable given the popular...

Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Revives Apr 6, 2021

Breitling Revives the Hand-Wind Split-Seconds Chronograph

Best known for its chronographs – especially those for pilots – Breitling now ups the ante with the Premier Heritage Duograph that just debuted alongside the new Premier Heritage chronographs. Named after the split-seconds chronograph Breitling produced during the 1940s to 1960s, the new Duograph is Breitling’s first hand-wind split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house movement (it did debut an automatic split-seconds in 2017). Capable of recording two elapsed time simultaneously, the split-seconds is also known as a rattrapante – derived from rattraper, French for “catching up” – and was historically Breitling’s most expensive chronograph due to its complexity. The B15 in the new Duograph simplifies the construction of the split-seconds mechanism, resulting in a surprisingly affordable watch, with the steel version priced at about US$10,000. Initial thoughts Alongside with the release of the Datora, the Duograph is proof that Breitling is inching towards more complicated chronographs, which is a good progression for the brand. Breitling has a storied history with chronographs, and the Duograph is a return to form for a brand that was put back on track when Georges Kern, previously the chief executive of IWC, took the wheel and set a new course. The Premier B15 Duograph in steel It is important to note that the rattrapante is a challenge to do well, which is why few brands offer the complication, while those that do often price the split-seconds ...

Breitling Introduces the Premier Heritage Chronograph and Datora SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Apr 6, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Premier Heritage Chronograph and Datora

Breitling’s opening salvo for the year is a trio of chronographs at Watches & Wonders 2021. The first is the Premier Heritage Chronograph, a straightforward, two-register chronograph, and another is the Premier Heritage Datora, an old-school combination of a chronograph with triple calendar. (The flagship model is the Premier Heritage Duograph split-seconds chronograph, which we cover in another story.) The new Premier Heritage collection is modelled on its namesake line from the 1940s, continuing the brand’s recent efforts of revisiting its past catalogue and re-introducing notable references, but with a couple of modern twists, like the mint-green dial for the Premier chronograph. The Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel Initial thoughts I’m a big fan of the new releases. While the Premier Heritage Chronograph may not be the most innovative, it’s an improvement over the previous generation Premier chronograph. For one, the case size has been reduced to 40 mm from 42 mm, giving the new watch proportions more akin to its vintage inspiration. The dial, now sans date window, is cleaner too. And its manual-winding movement should please traditionalists, who can also admire the movement through a sapphire case back without a rotor to obscure the view. That being said, the mint-green dial will likely divide opinions. It’s a bold look, but I can’t help but wonder if keeping to a safer colour would have been the wiser choice given the retro design. The Datora in ...

The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what Apr 6, 2021

The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do

The beautifully convex shape and mind-boggling complexity of the Greubel Forsey GMT Sport is one of the most extreme examples of a sports watch you’re likely to see. While undoubtedly tough, this is a creation from the atelier that questions the very existence of the luxury sports watch genre. After all, is anyone truly likely … ContinuedThe post The Greubel Forsey GMT Sport shows what a sports watch costing over $500k can really do appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.