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Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Nov 5, 2024

Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”

When Tudor hints at a new watch, the rumor mill starts running on overdrive. Usually, it sparks discussions about great possible additions to the Tudor lineup. How about that for Tudor scooping up ideas for future releases? But this time, the teaser that Tudor released wasn’t too mysterious. With a clip that showed the Marine […] Visit Hands-On With The Adventurous Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Vs Nov 3, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi Oct 31, 2024

Hot Take: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi

The Ulysse Nardin Freak, with its open-worked dial and flying carousel movement, is one of the watch world’s most recognizable timepieces. It has also become a popular platform for collaborations. The latest of these is the new Freak X Enamel Seddiqi featuring a titanium case and guilloché dial. Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the leading luxury […] Visit Hot Take: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi to read the full article.

In-Depth - The Steel Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821A on the Wrist Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – Oct 30, 2024

In-Depth - The Steel Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821A on the Wrist

This was, by far, the most anticipated launch of the year, but also (and unsurprisingly) the most discussed and commented new release of 2024. In fact, I can’t recall witnessing such an amount of reactions from the watch community since the launch of the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 collection – which, for several reasons, shouldn’t […]

Introducing - The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Caramel Limited Edition Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Oct 30, 2024

Introducing - The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Date Caramel Limited Edition

With CEO Davide Cerrato at the helm, Bremont has streamlined its offer into three fundamental pillars, offering rugged tool watches for airborne, seaborne and land exploration. The Terra Nova is Bremont’s vintage-styled field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches with contemporary specifications. The latest Terra Nova is a new take on the 40.5mm […]

Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase Fratello
Swatch Oct 30, 2024

Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase

The next chapter in the MoonSwatch collection shifts perspectives and brings something new to the table. Is it enough to get you excited? Swatch has just announced a new model within the highly successful MoonSwatch collection. Yes, it’s yet another one, and yes, the line is highly successful. Even though the days of never-ending queues […] Visit Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing Fratello
Oct 29, 2024

Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we tackle a listener question about pairing watches and straps with our clothing. Do we care or put a lot of thought into what watches we wear with our garb? Stick around to find out more. Watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. This […] Visit Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing to read the full article.

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10, the Next Chapter in their “Imaginary Vintage” Thought Experiment Worn & Wound
Massena Lab Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10, the Next Chapter in their “Imaginary Vintage” Thought Experiment

One of the most interesting new watches (and new brands) to surface at Geneva Watch Days this year was the Albishorn Maxigraph, made in collaboration with Massena LAB. Now, just a few months after their debut, Albishorn is back with their second effort, the Type 10. This might seem like a rapid pace for a brand to be moving at, but once you understand Albishorn’s backstory, it begins to make a little more sense. The brand is the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet, a watch industry veteran who is currently Director of Innovation and Marketing at Sellita. There are probably few individuals in the watch space better positioned to make a quick start than Sébastien, and after chatting with him briefly about his brand and his plans for it at Geneva Watch Days, it’s no surprise to see the Type 10 surface now, and it will be even less of a surprise to know that Sébastien has a an even longer term release roadmap planned out well in advance. The conceit of Albishorn, you’ll likely remember, is that of a brand that creates “vintage watches that never existed.” These are not vintage reissues, or even inspired, necessarily, by actual vintage watches. Rather, the watches that will make up the Albishorn collection will exist as thought experiments, imagining parallel histories in which a watch like the Type 10 or the Maxigraph could have been designed, but weren’t. It’s a subtle but important twist on the notion of a vintage inspired watch, and one that, I think, shoul...

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab SJX Watches
Massena Lab Continuing Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve WatchAdvice
Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Oct 16, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Bremont Terra Nova 40.5 Turning Bezel Power Reserve

From the Arctic to the Everyday: The New Terra Nova Evolution What We Love: The new look for the Terra Nova is suited for everyday wear. The blue gradient dial is stunning in person. Polished finishing on the case and bezel gives the watch a luxury look. What We Don’t: The constant seconds counter is oversized for dial. Movement and power reserve can be better to suit modern standards. Minute track can be slimmed down so dial appears less busy. Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 8.0/10 During Watches and Wonders earlier this year, Bremont released numerous timepieces for its Terra Nova collection, with various colour schemes and strap options. This Terra Nova collection can be seen as the brand’s redirection, as in early 2023, the company announced a change of leadership with Davide Cerrato taking over the reins. But let’s take a step back and look at what Bremont was as a watch brand before this new, modern direction took over. As a watchmaker, Bremont has a relatively short history compared to some of the other luxury watch manufacturers; however, in this short span of time, they have already created some memorable timepieces. The story in which the brand was found is also quite the tale! Bremont Founders Nick and Giles English. Image Reference: Bremont.com Bremont was founded in 2002 by British brothers Nick and Giles English. The brothers were drawn to watchmaking and to ultimately created a watch brand t...

The Latest Atelier Wen Perception is a Rare Non-Collab from the Brand Worn & Wound
Atelier Wen Perception Oct 10, 2024

The Latest Atelier Wen Perception is a Rare Non-Collab from the Brand

Atelier Wen is launching a new version of their popular Perception integrated bracelet sports watch, now bearing the “Millesime” label. This is a limited edition release, but unlike  many recent releases from their past, they’ve decided to forego any kind of associated collaboration with an outside brand, instead choosing to focus on fulfilling specific desires from their dedicated client base. Many of the updates that you see on this watch are a reflection of the watch community, very much in line with recent limited releases from other enthusiast focused brands that depend on customer feedback.  This new Millesime edition will be part of a community driven yearly release for Atelier Wen, and its name even represents the ideology of kinship or closeness, again prioritizing feedback from watch enthusiasts to design the watch. Some of the main community driven transformations that have been implemented on this watch include a purple dial that went through 3-4 testing rounds to find the perfect hue, as well as a full grade 5 titanium construction for both the case and bracelet.  In addition to this regular titanium version, a special release full Tantalum variant will be awarded to 3 random customers as a lucky draw contest. You may be expecting the regular version, but you could open the box to find you’ve been awarded the upgraded (and much, much heavier) Tantalum version, Willy Wonka syle! Atelier Wen has been teasing a tantalum Perception for some time, showin...

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Hamilton’s Oct 4, 2024

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial colors, the Khaki Field Quartz may just be one of the best buys in the Khaki collection.   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial ...

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47 SJX Watches
Hautlence Retrovision ’47 Best known Oct 3, 2024

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47

Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01

The still somewhat mysterious Kollokium project is back with its latest release, a new variant in their first series, dubbed Projekt 01. The Kollokium drops this year have reminded us, for better or worse, of the limited edition releases that dominated the pandemic era of watch collecting. In other words, watches timed to a worldwide release window, which starts a frenzy and inevitably ends up in many being disappointed when they miss out on snagging one. It seemed like these happened a few times a month in 2020 and 2021, but this cycle has slowed down significantly as the watch industry has normalized a bit over the last few years. I think it’s too Kollokium’s credit, then, that they’re still able to gin up a level of excitement for their watches that is capable of leaving people in a state where they inevitably lash out via keyboard. It’s also worth noting that these watches are still genuinely scarce enough that when they pop up on auction sites or the pre-owned market, they tend to command a hefty premium.  All of this, of course, is secondary to the merits of the Projekt 01 as a watch, and I still believe that Kollokium is doing something that is pretty genuinely interesting at a price point (at retail) that feels approachable. The brand, you’ll remember, was founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, who collectively represent the business, design, and collecting sides of the community, with overlap across all three fo...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi /Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain There Sep 29, 2024

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

There are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, and then there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. For GaryG the Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain falls into the third category, so much so that it became a running joke for a friend to pantomime a “smelling salts” motion as a signal for Gary to pull up his sleeve and jolt him back to attention. Here he explains why he bought this new classic watch.

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World Worn & Wound
Sep 24, 2024

The Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time: How The Invention of Balance Spring Changed the World

Editor’s Note: Today, we bring you the second part in the new series from Andrew Canter, the Greatest Horological Inventions of All Time. In this installment, Andrew examines the invention of the balance spring, a watchmaking advancement that not only charted a path for the watch industry, but can be said to have legitimately changed the world, enabling accurate, reliable, and portable timekeeping for the first time in human history. Who actually invented it, though, is still a matter of some debate, even after 350 years.  You can find more of Andrew’s work at the Mr. Watchmaster website here. Prior to the Balance Spring Early watches were powered by a verge escapement which was the same type of movement used in the early clocks. The verge is the earliest known type of mechanical escapement that controlled its rate by allowing the gear train to advance at regular intervals or ‘ticks’. Verge escapements were used from the late 13th century until the mid-19th century in clocks and pocket watches. Drawing of a verge escapement (bottom) and balance wheel (top) from an early pocket watch from an encyclopaedia c.1820 In the earliest watches a plain wheel, known as the balance, was used to control the rate of going of the mechanism. There wasn’t a consistent restoring force (such as a fusee), so consequently, its period of oscillation and, hence, the rate of the timekeeper were dependent on the driving force. Oval verge escapement watch movement by William Petit, Londo...

An Out of This World Hamilton, Collection Protection, Elegant EDC, and Lasering in on a Great Deal Worn & Wound
Hamilton Collection Protection Elegant EDC Sep 22, 2024

An Out of This World Hamilton, Collection Protection, Elegant EDC, and Lasering in on a Great Deal

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post An Out of This World Hamilton, Collection Protection, Elegant EDC, and Lasering in on a Great Deal appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements

When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. When shopping for a new watch, the movement is often a point of consideration for many enthusiasts. But what does it do? Simply put, the movement, often referred to as a “caliber,” is the engine powering the watch and regulating the rotation of its hands. While some may feature additional features called complications, their primary duty is accurate time-telling. Today, we’ll walk through the basic differences between manual, automatic, and quartz movements. The post The Difference Between Quartz, Manual, and Automatic Movements appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Bell & Ross Takes to the Skies with the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Takes Sep 17, 2024

Bell & Ross Takes to the Skies with the BR-03 Horizon Limited Edition

There are few things that I enjoy writing about more than a crazy new watch from Bell & Ross. These watches are catnip for me, whether it’s something along the lines of my beloved Multimeter, a watch incorporating a giant skull, or a case that gets the full lume treatment, I can’t help myself. Bell & Ross, when they’re weird, is one of my all time favorite brands, full stop. So it was with a great deal of interest that I came across the announcement of the all new BR-03 Horizon limited edition last week, the latest in the brand’s series of watches inspired by on-board aircraft instrumentation. Of course, it could be argued that any of the square cased Bell & Ross watches share this inspiration, sharing an aesthetic as they do with a kind of generic idea of a gauge that you might see in a cockpit, but the watches in this series take a more literal approach. The BR-03 Gyrocompass, for instance, has a dial that is dressed up as, well, a gyrocompass. And this limited edition, along those same lines, brings the artificial horizon to your wrist.  The artificial horizon is an essential tool for pilots, providing them with basic spatial orientation that is essential for safely piloting an aircraft. The gauge is quite simple, and shows at a quick glance an approximation of a an aircraft’s position relative to the surface of the earth. It’s particularly important for pilots flying in conditions where visibility might be an issue, such as in the dark or night or through ...

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025 SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Kross Studio Sep 17, 2024

Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025

Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Sep 6, 2024

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Speedy, a Gorgeous Girard-Perregaux, and an Uncommon Longines in Great Condition

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Girard Perregaux Minimalist Automatic First up this week is this sweet vintage Girard Perregaux dress watch. Like the seller says, it looks to be New Old Stock, complete with the original sticker on the back as well as the original hang tag. The case is 35mm wide, not including the crown, which appears to be signed with the GP logo. The case looks like steel, but the hang tag says steel and chrome, so I’m guessing the back is steel and the case is chrome plated. That said, it’s in perfect shape with no visible pitting. The silver dial has a nice vertical brushed finish with applied gold markers and gold hands, and a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Seller states the watch runs well. Great looking and understated dress watch.  View auction here Vintage Rado Las Palmas  Here is a really cool looking vintage Rado Las Palmas. Rado has made a lot of great models, and I’ve never seen or even heard of the Las Palmas. The steel case has a solid, 1970’s look, with a polished finish. The silver dial also screams 70’s, with the vertical brushed finish and large, applied steel markers. Of course, the dial also has the Rado spinning anchor logo at 12 o’clock. The caseback has a deeply ...

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Collaborates Sep 6, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Collaborates with Studio Underd0g on a Fruity Pair

H. Moser & Cie. has often injected humour into its watchmaking and does so with its latest collaboration, a pair of watches conceived with micro-brand Studio Underd0g. Presented a box set of two watches, the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavor Calendar Passion Fruit and Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit are designed around the same theme, namely passionfruit. Each watch, however, reflects the respective brand’s signature characteristics and price point. The Moser is a perpetual calendar with an in-house movement and fired enamel dial, while the Studio Underd0g is a Sellita-powered chronograph. Initial thoughts The collaborations in horology are sometimes uninspiring and dull. While MoonSwatch may be a commercial hit, or was a hit, it is precisely what one would expect from Swatch and Omega. However, the fruity duo from Moser and Studio Underd0g manage to be different, while retaining the brands’ respective identities. This is also one of the instances where a box set isn’t made up of repetitive or redundant watches. Though similar in colour, the two watches are substantially different, particularly in tactile feel. The owner can choose to wear either for different occasions or even gift one (probably the chronograph). Priced at CHF59,000 for the pair, the passionfruit editions are good value considering what would sell for individually. The Studio Underd0g would probably cost about CHF3,000, with the Moser accounting for the rest of the price, which is comparable to the re...

Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours SJX Watches
Blancpain have established Sep 3, 2024

Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours

For the 65th of its trademark vintage dive watch of the 1960s, Longines is giving the modern remake a set of new colours. The new Legend Diver is essentially extensions of last year’s release, retaining the double-crown case in the smaller 39 mm size and gaining new dial colours in green, terracotta, or anthracite grey. The model is equipped with a “grains-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment feature. Initial thoughts While many brands, namely Rolex and Blancpain, have established a familiar template for the dive watch, Longines has its a distinct design with the Legend Diver that has its characteristic Super Compressor case with two crowns and internal bezel. The design isn’t unique to Longines but the brand has arguably been most successful with it in the modern day And compared to other Super Compressor-style divers in this price range, the Legend Diver has the advantage of a higher-spec movement in the form of the COSC-certified L888.6 with 72 hours of power reserve. This makes the Legend Diver an appealing and affordable watch that’s priced at US$3,400. Lacquered colours The highlight of the release are the lacquered dial in green, terracotta and anthracite grey. The colour extends to the rotating bi-directional bezel designed for measuring dive time. The bezel can be rotated utilising the screw-in crown at two o’clock. The dial layout is symmetrical with no date, and features elongated indices and raised Arabic numerals coated with Su...

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Sep 2, 2024

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey.  I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...