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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Tommy DeMauro Worn & Wound
Cartier was certainly not lost Aug 9, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Tommy DeMauro

Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we turn to one of our newest contributors, Tommy DeMauro. Tommy has a deep appreciation and knowledge for a particular flavor of affordable vintage. Think ana-digi watches, under the radar and nearly forgotten references from big brands, and pure novelty. Tommy has a great eye and loves digging into the lost classics, and we’ll be bringing you his practical guides to these unusual watches in the coming months. But until then, here’s his 3 for 5k contribution, which ought to give you a sense of what Tommy is all about.  As someone who has firmly cemented themself in the affordable vintage market, the three-watch collection for under $5,000 challenge unlocked newfound territory for me.  Only owning watches with an initial cost of roughly $400 or less (before service or repairs if needed), I have no experience with luxury brands or any pieces whose market value exceeds my rather low price point. While the appeal of owning a Rolex, IWC, or Cartier was certainly not lost on me when deciding which watches to choose, I wanted to stick close to my roots and pay my respect to iconic brands often found within the affordable end of the market. Now, before I even begin to unpack my three choices, let me first explain my thought process here. I typically gravitate towards the obscure and unique because of my love for design and expression––why have what everyone else is having? That being said, yes, I...

Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Things have Aug 9, 2024

Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante

Things have changed an awful lot since the last time I reviewed a watch by Furlan Marri. That was all the way back in March 2021, and it was their debut release. It’s worth pointing out that at the time, the brand had virtually no public footprint, and I had to be somewhat cajoled into taking the assignment. But the humble, meca-quartz chronograph that put them on the map was genuinely impressive in the way it conveyed vintage watch design codes in an affordable package that, somehow, felt premium. I remember thinking that for the price Furlan Marri was asking for that watch (a pre-order deal of $330) you’d be hard pressed to find anything with better finishing or a more coherent point of view about what it’s trying to accomplish.  Just a few years later, and Furlan Marri is in a very different position. It happened fast. Those meca-quartz chronos hit the market and were an immediate sensation, getting the thumbs up from John Goldberger and other notable collectors. It put an immediate heir of legitimacy around Furlan Marri, something that the best small brands get eventually, but not typically with such speed. When your debut watch, a battery powered homage that costs a few hundred dollars, is selling for many times its retail price on the secondary market, heads start turning rather quickly.  $2780 Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Case Stainless steel Movement Peseux 7001 Dial Celeste (blue/white), Verde (green/cream) Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Wa...

Elevated EDC With CW&T; Worn & Wound
Aug 9, 2024

Elevated EDC With CW&T;

CW&T; exists to create the things we want to see in the world. That is the first thing you read when you click “about us” on their website. In 2017, Che-Wei Wang and Taylor Levy founded a design practice in Brooklyn, integrating their backgrounds in architecture, film, and computer science. They were awarded the 2022 National Design Award for Product Design from Cooper Hewitt. In addition to their design work, they teach, contribute to open-source projects, and support independent design practices. Since their establishment, they have set guiding principles to steer them in the right direction. However, these principles are flexible and may change as they progress. STAY SMALL – In today’s world, two people can move mountains. They believe they can go from idea to creation much faster than a boardroom full of gremlins. SHARE EVERYTHING – When you purchase one of their products, you acquire all aspects of its creation process. BUY LOTS OF LOTTERY TICKETS – By this, they mean not to be afraid to take chances. Rely on your education and rely on your supportive family, but sometimes you must go for it. MAKE WHAT YOU WANT – Do not get married to any one process; stay open to new ways; if you want it, make it. THE PROOF IS IN THE PROTOTYPE – They rarely use renderings, as nothing feels and acts like the real thing except for the real thing. MAKE IT GOOD –Do not take shortcuts. Use the appropriate tools and craft it correctly. MAKE IT LAST – They believe their p...

Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Four New References Aug 9, 2024

Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection

Farer has long been on my radar as a watch brand to trust not only for exceptional quality, but a distinct design language imbued into every new reference the British brand puts out. Take, for instance, the four new references from their latest Cushion Case collection. Already a favorite (or should I say favourite) of Farer fans, the cushion case is at once totally classic and modern. Because of this chameleon-like quailty, Farer has played with the coloring and design of each watch to make four distinct “personalities” to the series.  Let’s explore each model here. The new lineup features four distinct models, each offering a different style while maintaining the signature cushion case silhouette that has become a hallmark of Farer’s design ethos. First up is the Benham, which stands out with its bold cherry red dial, accented by horizontal grooves and a playful baby blue seconds hand on the sub-dial. The brushed bezel adds a sporty touch, complementing the watch’s contemporary look. Inspired by Gertrude Benham, an English explorer and mountaineer, this watch embodies adventure and boldness without veering too much into ostentation. On the other hand, the Mansfield Midnight offers a more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Its deep inky blue dial is highlighted by polished rose gold batons and numerals, further complemented by its rose gold dauphine hands, for a classic look. This watch balances metallic tones with polished rose gold accents, making it a sligh...

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive Monochrome
Seiko s high-end line offering Aug 9, 2024

Hands-on – The Divisively Beautiful Gerald Genta Designed Credor Locomotive

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Credor, a brand that began as Seiko‘s high-end line, offering timepieces crafted from precious metals. Today, Credor is renowned for its commitment to superior craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibility, which is evident in every aspect of its watches, from design to the intricate movements made up of countless minute […]

Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Continuing Aug 9, 2024

Imperial China’s “Seawater, River, Cliff” Inspires Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art

Continuing its recent run of watches dedicated to great art and ancient cultures, Vacheron Constantin (VC) now turns to the decorative symbolism of Imperial China. The Métiers d’Art Tribute to Traditional Symbols “Eternal Flow” and “Moonlight Slivers” are a pair of elaborately decorated watches inspired by 海水江崖纹, or “seawater, river, and cliff”, a highly symbolic motif employed during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Executed in a variety of decorative techniques, the dials of the Métiers d’Art pair are subtle reinterpretations of the traditional motif. “Eternal Flow” is rendered in vivid cloisonné enamel and the more striking of the duo. “Moonlight Slivers”, on the other hand, is set with diamonds but presents a more restrained, stylised take on the pattern. “Eternal Flow” Initial thoughts VC has a good track record at reproducing art on its watch dials. The Les Cabinotiers “Thunder God” and “Wind God” is a prime example of that. The Tribute to Traditional Symbols are similarly successful, though each of the pair is distinct from the other. “Moonlight Slivers” is almost low-key with its dark blue enamel, though the diamond setting gives it a bit of glamour. It also feels more modern. At a distance the motif appears almost geometric and abstract, particularly in this monochromatic execution. “Moonlight Slivers” In contrast, “Eternal Flow” is full Technicolour with the Imperial robe motif in all its glory. It’s almo...

The Manchester Watch Show Awaits! A Must-Attend Event for Northern UK Watch Enthusiasts Fratello
Aug 9, 2024

The Manchester Watch Show Awaits! A Must-Attend Event for Northern UK Watch Enthusiasts

The Manchester Watch Show, a highly anticipated event for watch enthusiasts and collectors, is set to take place on Saturday, November 9th, 2024, at the Hallé St. Peter’s. With its vibrant history and iconic architecture, Manchester provides the perfect backdrop for an event promising to showcase some of the best British watch brands. It’s the […] Visit The Manchester Watch Show Awaits! A Must-Attend Event for Northern UK Watch Enthusiasts to read the full article.

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Aug 9, 2024

Introducing – The New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee

In the past, our friends at Hodinkee have collaborated with TAG Heuer to create exciting timepieces like the Carrera Skipper and Carrera Dato. This year, they present a fresh take on the iconic Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, which Heuer produced for the American retailer from the 1950s until the mid-1970s. We gladly present the new […]

Up Close: IWC Portugieser “7-Days” Automatic 42 Ref. 5017 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser “7-Days” Automatic 42 Aug 9, 2024

Up Close: IWC Portugieser “7-Days” Automatic 42 Ref. 5017

IWC recently facelifted the entire Portugieser line, and along with it the flagship Portugieser Automatic 42 “7 Days”, now in its fourth generation. Though the tweaks are cosmetic but significant, with an attention to detail that results in clear aesthetic enhancements. Compared to the earlier generation ref. 5007, the new Portugieser has a sharper, more refined appearance, while also feeling slightly more compact. Initial thoughts Though the overall design is mostly unchanged over the earlier generation, Portugieser 7-Days immediately looks and feels different in the hand. It looks a little bit shinier, slightly more polished, as if more effort was put into making it look like an expensive watch. The appearance is subtly different yet instantly obvious, and is the cumulative result of small improvements to the case, dial, and crystal. The improvements are particularly evident compared to the first generation Portugieser ref. 5000 launched in 2000, which feels almost like a vintage watch from another era. The improvements are incremental and hardly imaginative, but they are well done. Granted not everyone might like the polished new look. The lacquered dial, for instance, has an obvious glossy finish. But most of the improvements are more subtle, particularly on the case that now has a slimmer profile and improved finishing. Importantly, the revamped Portugieser is priced almost exactly the same as its predecessor ref. 5007 (the increase is a few hundred dollars). It i...

Squale Introduces the 1521 Marina Militare SJX Watches
Blancpain Aug 9, 2024

Squale Introduces the 1521 Marina Militare

To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an  inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium Aug 8, 2024

Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium

As a brand, Grand Seiko doesn’t exactly skimp on annual new releases. Of course, many of the latest watches are dial variants, so we take extra notice when a completely new model debuts. The titanium SLGW003 “Birch Bark” was introduced earlier this year, and now we’ve had the chance to put it through its paces. […] Visit Hands-On: The Grand Seiko SLGW003 “Birch Bark” Titanium to read the full article.

Discovering Hentschel Watches, One of German Watchmaking’s Best Kept Secrets Worn & Wound
Aug 8, 2024

Discovering Hentschel Watches, One of German Watchmaking’s Best Kept Secrets

Hentschel has been on my radar for a while, and I followed the watch company casually for many years – until a mutual friend living in Berlin made the introduction. My curiosity level spiked, and I was ready for a deep dive into the background, manufacturing, watches, and everything that is Hentschel.  A Brief Overview of Hentschel Andreas Hentschel is the watchmaker and founder of Hentschel, based in Hamburg, Germany. Established in 1993, Hentschel has garnered a decent reputation for its craftsmanship and producing high quality mechanical wristwatches. A majority of the watches feature manual winding movements and sub-seconds on the dial. The design is reminiscent of classic pocket watches, but with complex case construction and colorful dials, they appear refined modern. Under the expert guidance of Andreas Hentschel, the family-owned workshop consists of a team of four skilled watchmakers that produce approximately 150 watches annually. According to Andreas, this limited production approach maintains the highest standards of craftsmanship and ensures that every Hentschel watch remains unique. In-House Movements Before I provide you my impression of two watches that I test drove for a month, I would like to address Hentschel’s in-house movements. Hentschel refers to the HUW 1130 S caliber as a “in-house manufactory movement.” Without going into the definition of in-house, Andreas is upfront about it being based on the Swiss A-Schild manually winding 1130 moveme...

Building A One-Watch Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 8, 2024

Building A One-Watch Collection

Sometimes, our editorial meetings produce the sort of nerdy, off-topic conversations that make us pause and say, "Wait, this should be an article." Okay, more than sometimes. As our team grows, it's become clearer that we should be sharing our takes (hot, cold, or lukewarm) here on the site for your reading pleasure – or just to stir the pot a bit. Today's topic of choice is the idea of expressing what we each would consider to be a one-watch collection. It's important to note that these picks are purely subjective and derive from the minds of our editorial staff. Our hope is that this thought exercise gets you thinking about what a one-watch collection might look like for you. So with that in mind, enjoy this story and let us know what you think of our choices in the comments! Danny Milton, VP of Content Not to spoil anything, but the team really went for it with the picks in our first real editor’s roundup here at Teddy. It’s hard to argue with any of the choices because – well – they represent the tastes and opinions of each individual writer. My approach to something like a one-watch collection is complex, perhaps unnecessarily so. My instinct tells me to go Rolex, but then I start to think about scenarios in my life in which I think “maybe I am not comfortable with a Rolex here.” It does happen. So then my mind delves into the more attainable price segment where I want to identify something bulletproof, something that packs undeniable value. If you’re ...

Hodinkee Introduces their Third Limited Edition Collaboration with TAG Heuer, an Updated Seafarer Built on the Glassbox Platform Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aug 8, 2024

Hodinkee Introduces their Third Limited Edition Collaboration with TAG Heuer, an Updated Seafarer Built on the Glassbox Platform

Among the many Hodinkee collaborative limited editions released over the years, the TAG Heuer releases have consistently been acclaimed. The “Skipper” Carrera has become something of a legendary watch in the niche world of limited edition collaborations, and the Carrera “Dato” released a few years ago was similarly praised and struck a very different register aesthetically. Hodinkee and TAG clearly have a close relationship, and the latest result of that partnership has just been revealed. Available today, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee limited edition feels like a natural evolution of the of watches that came before it.  The point of reference here is the Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, a watch produced by Heuer for Abercrombie in the days before they became an apparel staple at your local mall, and were known primarily as an enthusiast’s sporting goods retailer. The Seafarer, like the Skipper and Dato, has become an extremely collectible vintage reference for Heuer aficionados. They were produced in relatively small numbers from the 1950s through the early 1970s, and for a long time these watches were a kind of inside-baseball grail for collectors. These days more people are aware of them, and the Seafarer’s aesthetic has directly and indirectly influenced new watches from brands both large and small. This is the first time, however, that TAG has returned to the classic Seafarer with real intention, so it’s a big moment for old-school ...

Checking out the Mubadala Citi DC Open with Rado Worn & Wound
Rado Some people if you Aug 8, 2024

Checking out the Mubadala Citi DC Open with Rado

Some people, if you were to ask them, would say that the most exhilarating moment in sports is the bottom of the ninth with two outs and the winning run at the plate. Others would say it’s penalty kicks at the World Cup, the final two minutes of a basketball game, or a last-minute Hail Mary. Ask me the same question, and you’ll get a different answer. For my money, the most exciting moment in sports comes at the end of a tennis match. Unlike soccer, football, or basketball, tennis isn’t a sport where you can run out the clock. To win, you have to earn the last point and, until that happens, a comeback is never out of the question. Despite matches sometimes lasting for hours, time isn’t explicitly a factor in tennis, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t matter, and there is no stronger evidence for that than the strong connection between some of the world’s leading watch brands and the sport of tennis. This past weekend, I got to experience that connection firsthand with a visit to the Mubadala Citi DC Open, where Rado was serving as the tournament’s official timekeeper. With Rado’s clocks tracking the passing time both on and off the court, there was no better host to welcome us to Rock Creek Park, or with whom to celebrate one of my favorite sports in one of my favorite cities. Though Rado’s relationship with tennis extends back much further (well over thirty years), this is only their second year partnering with the Mubadala Citi DC Open. But just because...

Purpose Built: The Sinn EZM 12 SJX Watches
Sinn EZM 12 “Tool” watches Aug 8, 2024

Purpose Built: The Sinn EZM 12

“Tool” watches form a substantial part of watchmakers’ offerings today, at practically every point of the price spectrum. But true tool watches built for – and actually used by – professionals are rare. That’s partly due to the fact that inexpensive electronic watches do just as good a job. But Sinn continues to offer unusual timekeepers conceived specifically for professionals, ranging from pilots to firefighters, including the EZM 12 designed for emergency medical workers. Dr Martin Leitl with the EZM 12 Einsatzzeitmesser Historically a brand focused on tool watches, many watches in Sinn’s catalogue are no-frills timepieces with maximum functionality and legibility. Arguably the pinnacle of its tool watch line-up is the EZM series, short for Einsatzzeitmesser, which translates as “mission timer”. A “mission timer”, generally speaking, is an instrument for time measurement in a professional capacity, often one used for military applications, timekeeping on scientific expeditions, or even automobile races and rallies. The watches that make up the EZM series are largely designed for the needs of professionals in various fields, often conceived with the input of users in the field. The EZM 1 The watch that started the series was the EZM 1 with its distinctive left-handed case orientation. Introduced in 1997, the first “mission timer” was developed for the Zentrale Unterstützungsgruppe Zoll (ZUZ), the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs aut...

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s there was one Aug 7, 2024

Bremont Introduces the Limited Edition Broadsword Recon Bronze

Readers, I’d like to invite you to step back in time. Let’s go all the way back to the middle of April of 2024, in the days following this year’s Watches and Wonders. Amidst much content creation by many a watch media figure, there was a single story for which a consensus view began to emerge. While opinions might have differed on the viability of the new Lange Super Watch or the retail pricing of those gorgeous manually wound Grand Seikos, there was one brand on which just about everyone shared a take. Coming out of the fair, just about all of us agreed that Bremont was in trouble. There’s no need to dwell here on what we’ve already covered, except to say that the reaction to the new look at Bremont was the rare occasion in the watch media landscape where it felt like (almost) everyone was getting their unfiltered digs in. That usually doesn’t happen in our space. The reason is simple, at least at Worn & Wound, and that’s because here we tend to cover stuff we like. We want to share our enthusiasm for the things that get us excited, new releases included. But Bremont rebranding as they did at the biggest watch event in the world was newsworthy in a way that couldn’t be ignored, and we had to (as we always do) cover it honestly. We saw the watches in the metal, and gave our reactions, as did many others, and the many stories that were filed speak for themselves.  It’s been several months since Bremont debuted their new look, and the storm has died down c...

The Enduring Appeal of the Dunhill Rollagas Lighter Worn & Wound
Aug 7, 2024

The Enduring Appeal of the Dunhill Rollagas Lighter

While the term “everyday carry” is broad enough already, I’d bet my money that a lighter which costs close to $1,300 would not be included in anyone’s list. But, for me, it’s hard to deny that a Dunhill Rollagas is the epitome of style and functionality – and here is where I’m willing to expand the definition of “EDC” just a little bit. For many of us who consider ourselves collectors – whether it be watches, pens, or knives – I’m sure you’ve heard the phrase, “My cheap X works just as well!” And while this may be true (and trust me, my house is littered with matchbooks and cheap Bic lighters), I know that I’m not just buying something for functionality. When I buy a luxury good, I’m buying into the brand itself and the history behind it. While the $5 Spongebob watch my nephew wears and my Datejust both tell time, sure, there’s an undeniable difference that exists beyond timekeeping. When a brand does it right, you can almost feel it.  I’d call it nearly talismanic while my more cynical peers may call it just plain ol’ good marketing. But whatever the case might be, I feel a little different holding a Dunhill lighter in my hands. When I run my thumb across the sparkwheel on a gas station Bic, I’m instantly brought back to when I was sixteen and trying my first cigarette. When I do the same with a Rollagas, I feel like a proper adult. I like who I am when I have one in my pocket. The History of Dunhill For a brand to have been on a...

Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Aug 7, 2024

Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena

Did the best just get even better? From the moment the No Date version of the Tonda PF was released, I was sure this was the glorious pinnacle of the Tonda PF line-up. It is the perfect purist take on the Tonda PF that loses the date window and introduces a stunning Golden Siena dial. […] Visit Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena to read the full article.