Revolution
The Rolex Submariner “No-Date” – Seven Decades of a Classic
The Rolex Submariner has been an institution in its own right since 1953. The classic dive watch has undergone another pitch-perfect evolution in 2020.
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Revolution
The Rolex Submariner has been an institution in its own right since 1953. The classic dive watch has undergone another pitch-perfect evolution in 2020.
SJX Watches
While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...
Revolution
Over the past 28 years, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore has evolved into a cult watch that is simultaneously synonymous with success and street cred.
Time+Tide
Now I wholeheartedly confess to being a die-hard Seiko fan with two of the dearest favourites in my watch box being my inky black delight – Grand Seiko SBGR053 – and my limited edition Baby Marinemaster. The latter one is pertinent to this article as one of the many “inspired by” 62MAS heritage reissues from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
When Longines first remade a 1970s pilot’s chronograph as the Avigation BigEye Chronograph, it was well received for being a faithful re-interpretation priced affordably, as most other Longines reissues are. While the 2017 model was a dead ringer for the vintage original, Longines has just facelifted the watch, giving it a titanium case and gradient blue dial. That gives the Avigation BigEye Titanium more modern look, which along with the upgraded case, results in a steeper price that’s about a quarter more than that of the steel model. Initial thoughts Longines has been hitting it out of the park with its recent remakes – the Silver Arrow, Classic “Tuxedo” Chronograph, and Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial – that are smartly designed and good value, and despite the hike in price, BigEye Titanium is no exception. While the steel BigEye had a utilitarian look like the 1970s original, the titanium version is decidedly more contemporary. The gradient blue dial is bold, and also fashionable today, with a sandblasted texture adding further visual intrigue. I like the juxtaposition of the black sub-dials against the blue gradient finish, though the faux patina on the hands and indices might be a bit too affected, especially with the modern look. Despite the tweaks, the BigEye Titanium retains the same legible design, thus preserving the historical raison d’etre of its design. Another notable feature is the titanium case, which makes the new BigEye the brand...
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Time+Tide
Rod Stewart recounts how his Cartier watch was stolen during a pitch invasion after a 1977 football match when Scotland beat England.The post This is how Rod Stewart’s Cartier got stolen during a pitch invasion at Wembley appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Named chief executive officer of Audemars Piguet (AP) in Southeast Asia at the end of 2019, Stefanie Ng was in charge of the brand’s marketing efforts in the region before being tapped for the top job. A respected industry insider whose first job was in watchmaking, Ms Ng is now responsible for one of the fastest-growing regions at one of the best-performing luxury-watch brands. With many pandemic restrictions lifted, I sat down with Ms Ng for a chat earlier in the year, where she explained what has kept her at AP for almost all of her career, and also provided some hints as to the watchmaker’s upcoming launches. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You were appointed CEO of AP in the region in October 2019. Tell us a bit about your career before that. I started my career in the watch industry, at Swatch Group, first at Breguet, and then at Blancpain and CK Calvin Klein, where I did marketing. So the world of luxury watches was familiar when I joined AP as the regional marketing manager, [a role] you would call brand manager today. I handled all marketing activities across Southeast Asia, that’s eight to nine countries, for eight years. You have been at AP for most of your career. What has kept you there? The company and its people. Its values and direction have given me interesting perspectives on the watch industry, while helping expand my horizons, first as a marketer, and then as a leader. And of course, it’s also the brand – AP is where I feel at...
Time+Tide
Hublot has always been at the forefront of exploring new materials and colours. Known for their motto “the art of fusion”, Hublot constantly pushes the boundaries in regard to what we all expect a watch to look like – as well as what it is made from. There are few brands, if any, where we … ContinuedThe post Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Breguet's Classique Dame Reference 9065 is always perfect for the season of love, but rest assured this watch is also the right choice any time. Martin Green thinks that's largely due to the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, but there's much more to this colorful delight as he explains here.
Quill & Pad
While the Collection Privée Cartier Paris was the definitive illustration of a time of forgotten elegance, Cartier's Fine Watch Making Collection, despite its extremely high quality and finishing, became one of the best examples of a disaster in the trend of pretentious haute horlogerie of the last decade. So what's going on with Cartier's high watchmaking division now?
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SJX Watches
Having gotten its start with collaborations with brands like Habring2, Massena introduced its first wristwatch under its own name last year. Now it’s following up with a hush-hush launch of the Archetype 0.0, a “pre-series prototype” watch that’s neither a limited edition nor regular production. Like the earlier Uni-Racer, the Archetype 0.0 is a vintage-style chronograph conceived with an eye for details that only an enthusiast would appreciate. But unlike its predecessor, the Archetype 0.0 isn’t modelled on a specific vintage watch, instead it is a blend of elements that give it a mid-20th century air, while also having modern conveniences like a 100 m water-resistance rating and a domed sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts The Archetype 0.0 has a “sector” dial with a gilt finish – glossy black lacquer with gold print – a perennial favourite that’s not novel but always appealing. Similar dials are attempted often, but because Massena Lab founder William Rohr is a veteran watch collector and industry insider, the Archetype 0.0 gets even the smallest elements right. The numerals, for instance, have tiny serifs, while the six is “open”, as they would be on vintage watches. And the darker print for the logo and sub-dials is another delightful detail. Although vintage in style, the case is unusual in that it’s not usually found with gilt, “sector” dials in vintage watches, making the combination novel in a subtle manner. Notably, the case is rated t...
Quill & Pad
If H. Moser & Cie is edging away from the satirical approach that brought us the original Swiss Alp Watch, it is doing so with a bang with the Vantablack-dialed Final Upgrade version. The Vantablack dial coating, as advertised, absolutely absorbs any light that comes its way. But that is not all that GaryG finds spectacular about this timepiece.
WatchAdvice
Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...
Deployant
Happy Chinese New Year of the Ox. May this year bring blessings of good health, great prosperity and abundance in every good thing. We take the day off to celebrate. Remember to check back on Saturday for more watch reviews.
Time+Tide
It’s been a busy week, both in the watch world and out. A few hours ago it was announced that Melbourne will be going back into lockdown (thankfully for only five days) and earlier in the week we heard more details from Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern about the discontinuation of the Nautilus ref. 5711. … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Patek Philippe President speaks on the retirement of the Nautilus 5711 and the Bamford x T+T GMT1 has been spotted in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Want to know one of the highlights of 2020 for me? The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 of course. It was the first collaboration watch that Time+Tide has ever produced, and it was a thrill to be a part of the team that saw it come to life. But what’s been even more exciting than … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED: The Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1 sighted prowling in the wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
An American collector recently got in touch to share a recently completed Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a custom dial, a watch that’s unusual and interesting, while also having a thoroughly personal character. Christened the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge Watch, this unique Vingt-8 is a memento of the owner’s home state of Minnesota and its port city of Duluth. Spanning the canal that leads to the Port of Duluth, the Aerial Lift Bridge is a local landmark that can be raised to its full height of 135 feet in order to allow taller ships to pass underneath. Engraved entirely by hand, the dial depicts the Aerial Lift Bridge and a steamship sailing past. It forms the centrepiece of an elaborately decorated Vingt-8 that is also notably discreet in its serene blue and silver colours. Though the owner now lives in a different state, Minnesota holds a special place in his heart. “We are Minnesota residents and have spent a lot of time in Duluth as a family over the years,” explains the owner, “It is one of the most beautiful and scenic places in the country, right on Lake Superior, the largest fresh water lake in the world.” “Seeing the magnificence of these large ocean going ships pass through a very narrow canal under the bridge as they go into the Duluth harbour is truly a sight to behold,” continues the owner, “I have spent a lot of time photographing ships as they pass under the bridge as they come in and out of the harbour.” “I started thinking seriously about ...
Quill & Pad
For less than €2,500 you can get a pretty cool watch with an interesting story to tell. But which one: Japanese, German, or Swiss? Jan Lidmaňský highlights three possibilities from Seiko, Union Glashütte, and Oris, each of which might find a home on your wrist, but which would you choose? And why?
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: There is no official confirmation regarding the launch of a Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus. Anything written below is pure speculation weighing up the potential veracity of the current rumours and is not representative of any correspondence with Patek Philippe. Watch forums are always rampant with watch mock-ups and predictions. The guessing game, in … ContinuedThe post Predictions: How feasible is the supposed Patek Philippe 6711 Nautilus “leak” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Sometimes you need to make a statement. You want to let the room know that you’ve arrived and need your watch to have your back. When it comes to making an impact, while you can resort to gregarious gem-setting or passionate pops of colour, the diameter of your watch is a much more direct way … ContinuedThe post When size is the prize – 11 of the best big watches from dress pieces to divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Revolution
Revolution’s contributing watch editor dares to pose the question, “Is this obscure chronograph the thinking man’s Patek Tasti Tondi?”
SJX Watches
Patents in watchmaking are often brushed over by the brand themselves, except when tallying them in marketing material. But they are important, and can be foundational to a brand, as George Daniels’ famed co-axial escapement is synonymous with Omega. But there is a great deal more in watchmaking that can be protected with a patent than a lubrication-free escapement. A large proportion of the parts that make up a watch – from case materials to time-display mechanisms – can be patented, and often are. That begs the question: what exactly can be patented? The common obstacle encountered by a would-be inventor is that patents are notoriously difficult to secure, especially if applied for without specialist help. Going from application to approval of a patent often requires several years, and approval is not a certainty. Gaining a patent hinges on three criteria: the invention in question must be new, non-obvious, and useful. Beyond the necessary knowledge of prior inventions – in order to prove the patent-pending idea is new – the incredibly specific wording required for patents can be daunting to an independent applicant, so it usually falls to a patent attorney to lead the application process. But patents can be lucrative for an inventor, especially for an innovation targeted at the consumer, which is why new patents are registered every day. The United States Patent and Trademark Office, for instance, received just under 670,000 patent applications in 2019, and gr...
Time+Tide
Whether you are Darth Vader’s distant cousin or just enjoy the stealthy look of a ninja assassin, let us tempt you to the dark side. NOW, Time+Tide’s Watch Buying Guide, reviewed almost 200 of the best new releases from the last 12 months and among them were some real black beauties. From lume-infested diving watches … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best new black watches, with lume tricks and colour pips appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The vintage vibe already seems strong this year as we clearly see in new releases from Big Box brands and microbrands alike. So what’s happened to the modern, rugged sports chronograph, a staple of any decent watch collection? Well, have a look at the Sirrush Corbetti. Here’s a microbrand debut that just might possess that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Sirrush Corbetti delivers Scandinavian flair in a classic chronograph enlivened with fresh pops of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
For this week's article, we recommend six watches with complications that are relatively accessible to watch collectors - both budding or seasoned alike.
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