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BLAKJAK: Tornek-Rayville Type 7B Case Study & Technical Specifications Worn & Wound
Feb 6, 2024

BLAKJAK: Tornek-Rayville Type 7B Case Study & Technical Specifications

Staff Sgt. Highrock, Jimmie to the guys, was chilled to the bone and slightly delirious with sleep deprivation but never felt more fulfilled. It was also hard to complain since the rebels were doing the same with less and had been at it for years. The ODA had had to break up into 4 cells in order to get the coverage they wanted and his cell, Alpha, had just spent the last 12 tortured hours on horseback riding over ridges and up to the spur deep in Taliban held territory. Before leaving he had set his Type 7B wrist watch to count the number of days so he could keep better track over the limited supplies they had. The latest supply drop had missed the DZ and they couldn’t for the life of them find any trace of it and so went the extra MREs they had counted on bringing with them. Dave had just finished setting up the SOFLAM and Mike was on the SATCOM to confirm with the Capt. they had arrived as well as the expected kickoff for the attack that they would be supporting. Their task was to bomb the shit out of any reinforcements moving south towards Dostum’s point of attack on the Taliban lines. Mike confirmed to Dave and Jimmie that the attack was set for mid-afternoon about 2 hours before sunset. They had finally arranged through K2, their base in Uzbekistan, to have air assets over the battle area in order to provide close air support before, during, and after the attack. They still had a few hours to wait and so spent the time glassing the road and the surrounding mounta...

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Recovers its Original Design and Opulent Gold Attire Monochrome
Piaget Polo 79 Recovers Feb 5, 2024

First Look – The Piaget Polo 79 Recovers its Original Design and Opulent Gold Attire

When it was relaunched with a modernized and sleeker design in 2016, the Piaget Polo adopted the design cues of luxury sports watches, slightly changing the face of the collection to become a cushion-shaped watch. However, this isn’t how the model started its life. This year, Piaget celebrates its 150th anniversary, and to whet our […]

10 Best Longines Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Feb 5, 2024

10 Best Longines Watches for Every Type of Enthusiast

Headquartered in Saint-Imier, Switzerland since its founding in 1832, Longines takes its name from “les longines,” or the “long meadows” that surround that picturesque Swiss village. For nearly 200 years, the brand has been a watchmaking pioneer and a prolific maker of timepieces in all manner of styles and for all types of users - from sports timing to aviation, from an afternoon of scuba diving to an elegant night on the town. What are the best Longines watches on the market today? It all depends on what you’re looking for in a timepiece. In the curated list below, we showcase some of our recent favorites from the contemporary collection, which offers a style of watch for just about everyone.  Retro-Cool Dive Watch: Legend Diver Price: $3,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic ETA A31.L11 Longines updated the Legend Diver, a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch it produced in 1960, with a case made of bronze, a metal historically used in maritime equipment due to its anti-corrosive properties, and paired it with a sea-green lacquered dial. The 42-mm, 300-meter water-resistant case replicates the silhouette of the original and includes that vintage model’s two crowns - one for winding the watch, the other for operating the internal rotating divers’ bezel. The lacquered dial has a gradient effect, with an emerald green center radiating to an outer edge of bla...

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Feb 5, 2024

The Most Audacious TAG Heuer Releases from LVMH Watch Week

TAG Heuer marked LVMH Watch Week with some high-end experimental pieces. With fancy watch complications and highly scientific lasers and lab work, the watches represent impressive steps forward in technology in general. They’re also just really cool to look at. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Glassbox uses the same circular brushed finish as the Carrera Chronograph we told you about last week, and the same eye-catching teal green, which TAG Heuer says is meant to pay tribute to vintage racing colors. But the rest of its dial’s details diverge radically from that of the Chronograph. Two registers, one at the 9 o’clock and the other at the 3 o’clock, and an aperture at the 6 o’clock that lets you look into the tourbillon give the watch a very balanced and maximalist look. TAG Heuer knows they’ve got something with the Glassbox crystal design and decided not to mess with a good thing. The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon has the same domed sapphire crystal that TAG fans have loved in other releases since this form factor debuted a year ago. The exhibition caseback is also sapphire, giving you a good look at the Heuer 02–TH20-09 movement inside. Tourbillon movements are incredibly complex, with a rotating cage surrounding the movement that offsets the effect of gravity on the accuracy of the watch. As a result, the movement is a bit bigger than the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s automatic movement, necessitating a 42mm dial with a 48.6mm lug to lug ...

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection Worn & Wound
Feb 5, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Legacy Automatic Collection

Once a small brand has gained some traction, they usually do one of two things: dig deep into a hero product, or continue to delve into their brand ethos to create new things. Haim Watch Company seems to be steadfastly in the latter category. Following initial releases like the L2 and the Descent which featured design codes that clearly linked them together, one would be forgiven for assuming they’d mine these models for all they’re worth. But instead, the Chicago-based brand is building new styles that only expand the definition of what a Haim watch can be. Their latest collection is their Legacy Automatic. Coming in three colorways, this line-up shows a break from the previous generations of Haim watches and nods at real growth towards higher-quality, and more eye-catching designs. Compare, for example, the original Legacy collection to the Legacy Automatic. While the former has a fairly inconspicuous charm to it, you can begin to see that Haim is ready to cement itself as a brand that can take risks and maintain its mission statement as a microbrand that brings a luxury feel to a relatively affordable price point.  The Legacy Automatic references boast a lot of firsts for the brand, so I’d like to start with those as a sort of headliner for the collection. For one, it’s the first time and date-only design within the Legacy line-up. Not only that, but it’s Haim’s first custom designed caliber (more on what that really means soon) and is the first watch in Ha...

The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko NH34 GMT They also Feb 5, 2024

The Schofield Watch Company Introduces a New Case Shape and Size with their Field GMT

For the past 15 years, UK based Schofield Watch Company has been making watches using the same case shape and dimensions, with various color and finishing details. For 2024 they are launching a brand-new case and size, as well as a new complication. Introducing the Light, a field watch with a GMT function, which retains Schofield’s design esthetics, but at a size that should appeal to today’s sensibilities.  There are two models within the Light collection. Both feature a two-piece 40mm media-blasted case with a vertically brushed bezel, and the movement powering them is the relatively new Seiko NH34 GMT. They also have domed box sapphire crystals and case backs that feature lighthouse artwork printed on a mineral glass, through which you can see parts of the movement.   The aptly named The Light One, has a light gray step dial that features a cream outer ring with black printed numerals. The hour and minute hands are painted dark for contrast, with a light colored 24hr GMT lollipop hand turning within the inner stepped portion. The Dark One, in contrast, has a darker gray center dial, with a black stepped ring and white numerals. The main hands are light gray, the lollipop GMT hand is dark gray, and the case is entirely coated in black PVD. The text, branding and logo on the dials are very discreetly printed and there is no 24hr track, which makes reading the second time zone a little challenging. Therefore, a little commitment to understanding how to read the GMT ...

First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre Monochrome
Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497 Celebrating Feb 5, 2024

First Look – The Grand Seiko Pink Snowflake SBGA497, Celebrating 20 Years of the 9R Spring Drive Calibre

Even though its development started during the 1970s, it took some years for Seiko and Grand Seiko to finally present their first movement equipped with the Spring Drive technology (the very first was a Seiko in 1999). In 2004, after more than 2 decades of research, the first generation of Grand Seiko Spring Drive was […]

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT Feb 5, 2024

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE305 honours Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary

This year marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko‘s introduction of the 9R movement, featuring its revolutionary Spring Drive technology. The concept, conceived in the 1970s and which took decades to implement, aimed to blend the force of a mainspring with electronic watchmaking technology and surpass the precision of conventional mechanical watches. Now, 9R-family calibres […]

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Longines Feb 4, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More!

We’re back to our usual broadcasting with episode 73 of A Week in Watches. 2024 has gotten off to a solid start with several cool new releases and some interesting projects. This week, we take a look at the first new Speedy of the year, a wild project from Seiko, a fantastic calendar chrono from Zenith, and the revival of a vintage favorite from Longines. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 73: Power Reserves, Pandas, Triple Calendars, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Khanjar and Qaboos Rolexes: Are they the Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds? (Updated with New Information) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex es Are they Feb 4, 2024

Khanjar and Qaboos Rolexes: Are they the Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds? (Updated with New Information) – Reprise

Increasing demand for timepieces, especially Rolexes, with the Omani emblem is understandable given the high quality, good condition, demonstrable provenance, and rarity of most of these watches, combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered. Colin Alexander Smith takes a very close look at the meaning behind these rare timepieces and in this updated version of the article debunks one theory behind the dial symbol.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Breaking Down Sartory Billard’s New Movement, Tracking the Northern Lights, and Unboxing the Apple Vision Pro Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Breaking Down Sartory Billard’s New Movement, Tracking the Northern Lights, and Unboxing the Apple Vision Pro

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Sartory Billard’s SB08 Movement Gets Broken Down at Revolution  Our friends at Revolution have what is easily the most interesting technical watchmaking article we’ve seen in quite some time this week. In part 2 of their examination of Sartory Billard’s SB08 caliber, Cheryl Chia takes a deep dive into the ongoing work in developing this complicated, unique, and frankly quite exciting movement that features jumping hours and jumping minutes and a tourbillon. Part 1 of the three-part series was published in October, and serves as a higher level overview of the idea behind the SB08, and a little background on the Sartory Billard brand, while this latest article digs a bit more into the weeds of the mechanics, and some of the inherent challenges in developing a movement that requires so much power. We don’t often get a view into movement design in what amounts to real time, so this is a must read for anyone with an interest in the highly complicated mechanical calibers. Chia takes us through some fairly complex watchmaking problem solving, and provides a taste of what finished watc...

Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on Time+Tide
Feb 3, 2024

Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on

The culture of watchmaking is one that equally respects tradition and ingenuity, as the past can be respected while breaking boundaries and inventing new techniques. But, sometimes inventiveness doesn’t always work out. You can’t make an omelette without breaking a few eggs, so let’s rummage through the discarded shells and see some watch technologies that … ContinuedThe post Three failed watch technologies Buffy believes never caught on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Just A Minute With The Pioneer Carry Global Pouch Worn & Wound
Feb 2, 2024

Just A Minute With The Pioneer Carry Global Pouch

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. Today’s spotlight is on the Global Pouch from Pioneer Carry. Crafted from 3XD three-ply nylon, and, in the case of the Forest and Onyx versions, 10XD (ten times as strong as steel!), this durable catch-all is designed to go the distance and protect your everyday carry gear and other valuables wherever your travels take you. With five internal pockets, water resistant design, and compact size, this pouch packs a ton of features for its price. You can configure the Pioneer Carry Global Pouch from a variety of color and materials right here in the Windup Watch Shop. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. Today’s spotlight is on the Global Pouch from Pioneer Carry. Crafted from 3XD three-ply nylon, and, in the case of the Forest and Onyx versions, 10XD (ten times as strong as steel!), this durable catch-all is designed to go the distance and protec...

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak – Feb 2, 2024

The Ulysse Nardin Freak – The Saga of a Scientific Timepiece Part I

Novel ways of telling the time or exhibiting the movement have long been the focus of the avant-garde horologists. Independent watchmakers like Ressence or Urwerk have built their brands on doing away with conventional hands. Such idiosyncratic approaches to watchmaking challenge the traditions of horology, making for a more interesting horological landscape. Even before Urwerk introduced the pioneering three-dimensional cubic hour display in 2005, there was the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Launched in 2001, the Freak literally changed the face of watchmaking by transposing the movement into the dial. Two decades after its launch, the Freak is still regarded as a landmark for its audacity, from both aesthetic and technical perspective. [This story covers the origins of the Freak, from its conception to realisation, as well as its distinguishing characteristics, namely the inventive movement construction and unique escapement. Part II deals with the evolution of the unique, high-performance escapement, while Part III details the history of silicium, the proprietary Ulysse Nardin silicium hairspring, and the patented Grinder rotor.] The origins The beginning of the Freak lay in 1997, when Carole Forestier-Kasapi, then a young and talented movement designer who only recently graduated from technical college, won the Prix de la Fondation Abraham-Louis Breguet, a contest conceived to mark A.-L. Breguet’s 250th birthday that sought to recognise watchmaking ingenuity. Now the head of m...

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Creation is a Dark Green Big Bang Unico Worn & Wound
Hublot s Latest SAXEM Creation Feb 2, 2024

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Creation is a Dark Green Big Bang Unico

We all have our preferences in life. I like “The Sopranos” more than “Breaking Bad,” and thin crust pizza over thick. I like sparkling water over still, and would rather listen to vinyl records than CDs. I’m a Mac user, and I like 1990s action-thrillers more than almost any other type of movie. I’d rather be cold than hot, and I like staying up late more than getting up early. And when it comes to Hublot, I like their colored sapphire and SAXEM cases more than anything else they make. I just do, I can’t help it. The brand in general interests me to no end, but when I see they have a new colored sapphire watches, I get really excited.  For LVMH Watch Week this year, Hublot has unveiled a new and somehow, in the grand scheme of crazy watches, slightly more approachable version of a watch that I’ve been transfixed by over the last few years. There was, of course, the giant purple Big Bang Tourbillon in 2022, and a tennis ball colored version of the same watch (in their SAXEM material) in tennis ball yellow last year. This year, they’re sticking with SAXEM, but have gone back to the traditional dark green material traditionally used with this material in the new Big Bang Unico SAXEM Green.  If you’re reading this and asking yourself “What the hell is SAXEM? It sounds totally made up,” you are hereby forgiven. In my excitement for the new watch, I neglected to provide the primer on the material that is probably necessary if this is your first time hear...

TAG Heuer Introduces a Smaller Aquaracer Solargraph Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Feb 2, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces a Smaller Aquaracer Solargraph

Two years ago, TAG Heuer introduced a solar powered version of their ever-popular Aquaracer dive watch called the Solargraph. It was quite a hit and last year they brought out a version in media-blasted titanium, which knocked Kat Shoulders’ socks off at LVMH Watch Week 2023. It just so happens to be LVMH Watch Week 2024 and TAG Heuer is introducing 5 new Solargraph models, but they might not be what you’d think. Instead of new case materials (these are all stainless steel) what they have done is shrunk the diameter down to 34mm. Making these new Aquaracer Solargraphs a mid-size watch that will fit just about everyone, but will be particularly appealing to anyone with smaller wrists who might feel ignored by “small” divers starting at 38mm and ballooning from there. They have also brought back a design feature which was removed from the Aquaracer line when they redesigned them some years ago: the venerable rider tabs. They’ve been executed quite tastefully here, with their scalloped trapezoidal shape on a completely polished bezel.  There are 5 different configurations of the new smaller Solargraph, all of which come on a bracelet, with a solid twin-trigger clasp. The first features a green dial (above), with an attractive circular texture and printing that seems to float above it. TAG Heuer calls this polar blue-themed. Even the applied indices appear to be hovering above the dial. Next up are three models with mother-of-pearl dials. One with a diamond bezel, o...