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The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic Worn & Wound
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Feb 1, 2024

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic

It’s like we always say: every year is an anniversary year. As surely as the sky is blue and the tax bill comes every spring, watch brands will celebrate major (and not so major, to be honest) anniversaries with new watch releases. This year, Longines is celebrating what is actually a fairly big milestone for their Conquest collection, which turns 70 in 2024. This line is pure mid century elegance, which in my opinion never really went out of fashion, even if sportier watches have been the focus of the watch world for much of the last decade. The Conquest watches immediately evoke a period of time when you could wear a fedora unironically, and smoke cigarettes indoors. A simpler time, before we felt the need to place watches into distinct categories, and they were just watches. You get a little taste of that with the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, as well as a very cool execution of a common complication.  The new reference seen here is a reinterpretation of a watch that made its debut in 1959 and featured a power reserve indicator in the center of the dial, which functioned with two rotating discs. The modern version uses the same principle as the watch from the 50s, with a power reserve indicator tied to an uncoiling disc marked with a baton shaped indicator that tracks the movement’s power over the course of its 64 hours of running time. Seeing the power reserve at the center of the dial seems remarkably intuitive, and Longines, for their part, take c...

Introducing – The Bausele x Seconde/Seconde is all about Australian Clichés Monochrome
Bausele x Seconde/Seconde Feb 1, 2024

Introducing – The Bausele x Seconde/Seconde is all about Australian Clichés

While now many of our readers must be familiar with Romaric André, founder of seconde/seconde, and the man behind dozens of collaboration watches, Bausele remains a slightly more niche brand in the watchmaking field. Founded in 2011 and first specialized in military-issued watches, the brand is one of the few to be located in Australia… […]

Introducing – Immerse Yourself In Spy Thrills With The Bremont Argylle Collection Monochrome
Bremont Argylle Collection Feb 1, 2024

Introducing – Immerse Yourself In Spy Thrills With The Bremont Argylle Collection

In the upcoming February release, Matthew Vaughn unveils his latest cinematic creation, Argylle, delving into the entertaining and twisted world of espionage and spies. Drawing parallels to Vaughn’s other hit, Kingsman: The Secret Service (2015), known for its stylish clandestine intrigue, Argylle promises an equally riveting experience. Vaughn’s ongoing collaboration with the British watch company […]

News – H. Moser & Cie. Enters an Unexpected Global Partnership with Alpine Motorsports Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Feb 1, 2024

News – H. Moser & Cie. Enters an Unexpected Global Partnership with Alpine Motorsports

The connection between watches and motorsport has been around for decades, specifically in Formula 1 where almost every team has signed a partnership with a prestigious watch brand. IWC and Mercedes AMG, Ferrari and Richard Mille, Aston Martin and Girard-Perregaux… And all of them bringing to the table dedicated timepieces. As the 2024 Formula 1 […]

Unboxing Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘German Silver’ Revolution
Moritz Grossmann Feb 1, 2024

Unboxing Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘German Silver’

Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossmann. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of copper, nickel, and zinc known as maillechort, or German Silver in English. German Silver is remarkable in that […]

Introducing – The Graphic New Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic Jan 31, 2024

Introducing – The Graphic New Bell & Ross BR-03 Cyber Ceramic

The latest creation from Bell & Ross, the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic, immediately draws parallels with the Cyber Skull models due to its striking resemblance. At first glance, one might even mistake it for another skull and bones-themed timepiece. However, the brand steers us away from such associations, emphasizing the BR-03 Cyber Ceramic is the brand’s […]

Up Close With Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’ Revolution
Moritz Grossmann Jan 31, 2024

Up Close With Grail Watch 9.1: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’

Live now – Grail Watch 9.1: the Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 Stainless Steel ‘German Silver’. Our latest Grail Watch sees us return to Germany’s watchmaking heartland, Glashütte, and the expert watchmakers at Moritz Grossman. The moniker for this elegant watch comes from the dial, which is made from the durable alloy of […]

The Minimalist, 1970s Bulgari Bulgari Makes a Comeback SJX Watches
Bulgari Bulgari Makes Jan 31, 2024

The Minimalist, 1970s Bulgari Bulgari Makes a Comeback

Bulgari updates its signature Bulgari Bulgari wristwatch by reverting to the original format (almost). Debuted in 1977 as the brand’s first wristwatch, the model was designed by Gerald Genta, who conceived a flat bezel engraved with the brand name, reputedly inspired by ancient Roman coins. Though the model has remained in the collection size in a variety of styles, the latest version returns to the simplicity of the original, with a minimalist dial and compact, 38 mm case available only in either 18k yellow or rose gold for now. Initial thoughts The Bulgari Bulgari remains the Italian jeweller’s quintessential wristwatch, remaining recognisable despite having evolved into a multitude of iterations over the years. The appeal of the design is its distinctive style despite the simplicity, something that the latest version returns to. The new Bulgari Bulgari has a minimalist dial featuring a date at three (which purists might frown at), and rendered more wearable with a diameter of 38 mm. This scaled-down case no doubt reflects a trend found across other brands, many of which are moving towards cases in the range of 35 mm to 39 mm, often in a vintage-inspired style. Whilst the new case size is almost ideal, the date window gets in the way of the minimalist design. At the same time, an upgraded movement would have made it more appeal. While in-house, the long-in-tooth BVL 191 has a disappointingly short power reserve of 42 hours, as opposed to the norm of three days for n...

Hands-On With Two Of The Most Desired Watches In The World: The Old And The New Rolex Daytona In Platinum Fratello
Rolex Daytona Jan 31, 2024

Hands-On With Two Of The Most Desired Watches In The World: The Old And The New Rolex Daytona In Platinum

Yes, this is a hands-on with the new Rolex Daytona in platinum, the ref. 126506. But guess what? There also was an “old” platinum Daytona ref. 116506 with an ice-blue, diamond-set dial at hand for some live comparisons. Two platinum Daytonas at HQ at once - is that too much of a good thing? Nope, […] Visit Hands-On With Two Of The Most Desired Watches In The World: The Old And The New Rolex Daytona In Platinum to read the full article.

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Gets a Jade Dial SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Jan 31, 2024

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Gets a Jade Dial

H. Moser & Cie. is back with another Streamliner to kick off the year. The Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade sports a dial crafted from the mineral stone – mined in the American state – and a rose gold case, while retaining the other elements from the original Streamliner Tourbillon with a Vantablack dial released in 2022. Initial thoughts Like most mineral stones, jade has a natural pattern that varies across examples. As each piece of jade has a pattern that’s slightly different from the next, no two dials are exactly the same. This unique variance is one of the key attractions of natural stone dials. Here it is paired with rose gold, a combination that works particularly well. Because it is identical in size to the earlier Streamliner Tourbillon, it also wears well. The 40 mm case sits well on my 6.5 in wrist, being neither too big nor too small thanks to the lug-less case design. This is a pricey watch in absolute terms, with a retail of CHF 109,000. That said, the value proposition is actually decent. The comparable Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in pink gold, for instance, costs almost double. While Moser is a niche brand compared to establishment names, it offers watches that are relatively more unusual, while being comparable in overall quality. The only downside of this is arguably the edition size, which at 100 is substantial for a watch of this nature. Moser has been steadily increasing the variety and quantity of its high-end Streamliner models...

Hamilton Ventura and Elvis: A Comprehensive Guide and History Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jan 30, 2024

Hamilton Ventura and Elvis: A Comprehensive Guide and History

One of the most enduring associations between a world-famous star and a legendary timepiece is the one between Elvis Presley and the world's first electric watch, the Hamilton Ventura. A bold horological gamble when it debuted in 1957, the Ventura is now a mainstay of Hamilton's sprawling portfolio of watch families, and the influence of the King of Rock 'n' Roll on its modern incarnations continues to this day. Read on to discover more about the Ventura and the musical icon who made it famous. Origins: The World’s First Electronic Watch (1957) Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a key role in American watchmaking and innovation throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries - even though the company itself migrated its production to Switzerland in 1969 and became part of the Swiss Swatch Group in 1984. By the early 1950s, Hamilton joined other watchmakers, in the United States and around the world, in the quest to conquer the newest frontier of portable timekeeping – making a wristwatch with a fully electric movement.  It was Hamilton’s U.S.-based competitor, Elgin, which originally took the lead in such a project, along with the family-owned French watchmaker Lip. Elgin’s “Watch of Tomorrow,” which was unveiled as a prototype in Chicago on March 19, 1952, was powered by Caliber 725, a movement with no mainspring or winding mechani...

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project Worn & Wound
Seiko Power Design Project From Jan 30, 2024

Creativity Takes Center Stage with the Seiko Power Design Project

From creating the world’s first automatic chronograph to creating the first quartz watch, Seiko is known for its cutting edge and revolutionary timepieces. In 2001, Seiko decided to have some fun and further encourage a culture of experimentation by starting the Seiko Power Design Project, an annual opportunity for Seiko designers to, as Seiko puts it, “deeply explore the essence of watches in a style different from their regular work and to generate innovative outputs.” Each year, designers are given a different theme, with past years tackling things like the neighborhoods or districts of Tokyo or more abstract concepts, such as “rebirth” and “fascination.” After its discontinuation in 2009, Seiko relaunched the project in 2023. This year’s Power Design Project has delivered another crop of unique watches under the theme of “incredibly specialized watches.” The standout of the collection is the Ambidextrous, a watch that can be worn on the left hand or the right-with it appearing a different color depending on which way it’s facing. Designer Kento Ito accomplished the optical illusion with a steel case painted black on one half and a dial painted with black and white stripes that trick your eye into thinking the dial is white or black depending on the viewing perspective. Hour, minute, and second hands extend past the center of the dial, with one half black and the other white to complete the illusion. It’s the sort of fun trick that would have y...

First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset Monochrome
Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The Minimalist Louis Erard Regulator x Olivier Mosset

An exceptional collaboration between renowned Swiss abstract artist Olivier Mosset and watchmaker Louis Erard results in a minimalist black-on-black model destined to become a sought-after collector’s piece. Translating the artist’s abstract, reductionist codes into the miniature canvas of a watch, the Louis Erard Regulator flaunts the monochromatic palette of the rebellious Swiss artist. Produced in […]

Maurice Lacroix Debuts a Pair of New Aikons with PVD Coated Cases Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Debuts Jan 30, 2024

Maurice Lacroix Debuts a Pair of New Aikons with PVD Coated Cases

For years we’ve been calling for watch brands in every category to embrace color, and to give us more than the standard array of white/black/blue when it comes to dial variants. And for the most part, we’ve reached a point where most watchmakers are providing consumers with a healthy choice of dial variants beyond the standard. A new release from Maurice Lacroix, however, has me wondering if case color is the next frontier. The new Aikon PVD collection, a small series of just two watches, has the brand’s popular contemporary sports watch getting a PVD coating. One in gunmetal gray (admittedly, not super uncommon) and the other in a metallic shade of dark blue.  The Aikon so often spoken about as a far less expensive alternative to the Royal Oak that it’s hard not to think of AP’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic when considering the blue PVD Aikon. Obviously there are enormous differences. The aforementioned Royal Oak QP is, by all accounts, one of the most sought after watches in the world, full stop. The Aikon has a cult following, but it’s nowhere near the cultural touchstone of the Royal Oak. And the AP is complicated, and the Maurice Lacroix is time only. But still, from across the room (way, way across the room) the Aikon can play tricks on you – it has a similar silhouette and is a watch in a similar style as the Royal Oak, and now you can have one in blue, if you’d like.  The blue PVD version of the Aikon measures 39mm in diameter, whi...

First Look – The New Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches in Gold Monochrome
Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches Jan 30, 2024

First Look – The New Bulgari Bulgari 38mm Automatic Watches in Gold

Nearly half a century ago, in 1975, Bulgari embarked on a horological voyage that would forever alter the watch design landscape. With only a few watch creations bearing its name, Bulgari showed opulence by gifting 100 gold digital display watches to its most esteemed clients. This bold yet elegantly simple timepiece christened Bulgari Roma, encapsulated […]

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Jan 30, 2024

Hublot Introduces a Three-Dimensional “Grand” Complication

Hublot’s flagship launch at LVMH Watch Week 2024 is the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, an enormous and outlandishly complicated wristwatch that takes a novel approach to each of its key functions: telling the time, winding, and regulation. The time is indicated by rolling cylinders, while the movement is regulated by an inclined flying tourbillon, and the mainsprings wound by a novel mechanism that relies on the linear motion of twin sliding weights. All the mechanical intricacy is visible under a panoramic, wraparound sapphire crystal curved on three different planes. Initial Thoughts Although Hublot is best known for its simpler models like the Classic Fusion, and sometimes gets flak for the basic movements used in those watches, the brand has long specialises in intricately-mechanical complications, most notably the MP-05 LaFerrari with a movement shaped like an automobile engine and the MP-07 with a 40-day power reserve. The MP-10 continues the series in the same oversized, hyper-modern format. The movement combines several unusual complications that have been found elsewhere, but never altogether. These include the cylindrical time display and inclined tourbillon, but more notably the linear winding mechanism. This is probably the most dynamic complication in the watch, since the twin weights on each side of the case will slide up and down with the motion of the wrist. Winding a movement with sliding weights has been tried several times in the past, includin...

Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Models At LVMH Watch Week - One In Yellow Gold, The Other In 904L Steel Fratello
Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Jan 30, 2024

Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Models At LVMH Watch Week - One In Yellow Gold, The Other In 904L Steel

The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo isn’t a watch that really needs a lot of color to stand out. Its extremely flat and geometric design already makes it one of the most original watches to wear. However, for this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Bvlgari is launching two colorful versions of its 10-year-old icon. The first is a […] Visit Bvlgari Launches Two Octo Finissimo Models At LVMH Watch Week - One In Yellow Gold, The Other In 904L Steel to read the full article.