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Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jul 12, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic

For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...

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British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet It’s no secret Jul 12, 2021

British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet

It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity

This is not the first time we’ve shown you a watch from Switzerland’s Brellum, an independent brand created in 2016 by fourth generation watchmaker Sébastien Muller. And although this is our Micro Mondays feature, Brellum is really established enough as a small manufacturer to deserve to be called an atelìer, with an exclusive production of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Duobox LE.8 Chronometer artfully balances tradition and modernity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!) Quill & Pad
Bovet Jul 10, 2021

Bovet Fleurier Miss Audrey Sweet Art: Real Sugar Crystals On The Dial Glisten Like Tiny Colorful Pearls (No Licking!)

While its convertible Amadeo case allows the Bovet Miss Audrey watch to be easily converted to a pendant or desk clock, the focus of Sweet Art is its incredible sugar crystal dial. Joshua Munchow was skeptical when he first heard about the sugar being used but the results speak for themselves, and it is hard to argue that the dials aren’t indeed gorgeously crafted. You must see this for yourself.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther: Fun Or Fail? (Video) Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Jul 10, 2021

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther: Fun Or Fail? (Video)

Can a serious watch manufacture get away with producing such a “gimmicky” timepiece as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther? Serious and gimmicky are not mutually exclusive, but they were posed as two different questions in the same breath by Marc André Deschoux of The Watches TV in a special video taking a look at the first timepiece to emerge from the collaborative energy between Audemars Piguet and Marvel Studios. What's your opinion?

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Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 10, 2021

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise

The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of my best friends had arranged for the two of us to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: my friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what I saw left me reeling – my first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. I was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for me, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.

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Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2021

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history

Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, … ContinuedThe post Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 8, 2021

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future

In 2017, Rado decided to bring back their 1960s classic, the Captain Cook diver. Sparking positive reactions from the watch media, while making a strong connection with many a vintage watch lover’s heart, it became an instant success. Subsequently, Rado has refused to rest on their laurels by continuously evolving the line. We have seen … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Jul 7, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow”

Undoubtedly the most technically interesting movement in a time-only Royal Oak, the skeletonised cal. 3132 with twin balance wheels made its debut in a discreet package in 2016. It got fancier attire more recently with a gem-set “rainbow” bezel and hammered case finish, but only with the smaller, 37 mm case. Now “rainbow” meets mechanics in the 41 mm case for the first time – in all three colours of gold no less. Extravagant but surprisingly not that exorbitant in price, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm combines the largest-sized case with a multicoloured bezel, and most importantly, the twin-oscillator movement. Initial thoughts A unique combination of bling and technical credentials is precisely the appeal of the new Double Balance. Currently fashionable and maybe too common, the multi-coloured gemstone bezel is over the top but it is cool. The movement, on the other hand, is smart. The calibre relies on twin balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, to average out positional errors and improve stability, making for better timekeeping over the long run. This mix of sparkly excess and mechanical achievement is rare, which sets the watch apart from its peers. So if you’re someone who likes “rainbow” watches, this is one of the few that has strong technical merit. And it’s priced at about US$120,000, which is definitely a square deal for such a watch. The only downside is the pronounced lack of availability, which ...

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The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov SJX Watches
Breguet numerals as well as Jul 7, 2021

The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov

Russian independent watchmaker Maxim Sushkov specialises in affordable custom timepieces, and has just unveiled his latest. Created for an Austrian client, the Watch Creative is a dress watch with classical elements like teardrop lugs and Breguet numerals, as well as a few striking, original details, such as the unusual, droplet-shaped hands. Initial thoughts While still niche, independent watchmaking has gained increasing traction in recent years. Its rising popularity has been accompanied with rising prices, both in the secondary market and at retail. A few watchmakers, however, continue to offer accessibly priced, original work. One such example is Mr Sushkov, who provides a channel for enthusiasts to commission one-off timepieces, appealing to collectors who fancy something unique but affordable. The Watch Creative illustrates Mr Sushkov’s work well. From the case with soldered lugs to the guilloche dial, it’s made up of a mix of stock and custom parts – with a good deal of work done by hand – resulting in a simple watch with interesting details. In fact, the custom execution make it a good value proposition at around US$4,200. This has little competition at the US$4,000 mark in a similar vein of customised watches, except for fellow Russian watchmakers like HoD (though it occasionally works with Mr Sushkov). An alternative similar priced but the complete opposite in concept is the Ophion Velos, a watch that is more polished and refined, but made by machine i...

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Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? Time+Tide
Rolex best? Let’s get ready Jul 7, 2021

Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best?

Let’s get ready to rumble in this horological battle with Rolex as the weapon of choice. In one corner, wearing his customary skinny jeans is Wiz Khalifa. The rap superstar has always been open about enjoying blinged-out wristwear. “So many rocks up in my watch I can’t tell what the time is,” he happily admitted … ContinuedThe post Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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From Tom Brady to Lewis Hamilton, how do IWC get the GOATs as their ambassadors? Time+Tide
Hamilton how do IWC get Jul 6, 2021

From Tom Brady to Lewis Hamilton, how do IWC get the GOATs as their ambassadors?

Before Lewis Hamilton was sponsored by IWC through his Mercedes AMG team, he had only won one Formula One Championship. How many has he won since becoming the brand’s ambassador in 2013? An incredible six, only once finishing outside the top three drivers. Was it pure chance that IWC began their relationship with him just … ContinuedThe post From Tom Brady to Lewis Hamilton, how do IWC get the GOATs as their ambassadors? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jul 6, 2021

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe

At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.

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Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters Time+Tide
Omega Speedmasters Noah Lyles Jul 5, 2021

Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters

Noah Lyles is set to be one of the big attractions at the Tokyo Olympics. Despite being only 23 years old, he already boasts a 100m personal best of 9.86 seconds, while last week, in the U.S. Olympic track and field trials, Lyles ran the 200m in 19.74 seconds, the fastest time in the world … ContinuedThe post Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 5, 2021

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review

Pros: Comfortable on the wrist for long periods of wearUnlike previous models, the R734 movement is on display – the best one to dateGreat Build quality, High-tech ceramic is a winner for captain cook range Cons: Some may find it thick on the wrist compared to the other captain cook varients The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may not appreciate the blacked tinted sapphire crystal dial Over All Rating: 8.0/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there’s one watch brand that has earned the nickname “Master of Materials”, it is Rado. Being one of the biggest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, Rado uses the latest technology and innovation to create some unique materials for their watches.  Diving into the history of the brand, in 1960 they were the first to create the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, the DiaStar 1. This was done by innovation, through introducing materials into the watch industry that were not known at the time. Materials such as hard metal and sapphire crystal.  In 1970, Rado continued to innovate new materials by coming up with a scratch-resistant and high-tech ceramic bracelet called Rado Integral. This was arguably the first use of high-tech ceramic on a watch by Rado, and it would eventually become the brand’s signature material. In 1990, Rado really stepped things up in their use of ceramic, with this particular year being dubbed as “the cera...

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Up Close: Hermès H08 Automatic SJX Watches
Hermes Jul 5, 2021

Up Close: Hermès H08 Automatic

Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2021, the H08 is an all-new men’s watch from Hermès. Featuring a cushion-shaped case and a Vaucher movement, the H08 is typical of Hermes in its restrained, thoughtful styling exemplified by the custom typography. Hermès described the H08 at its launch as a relatively affordable, everyday watch with a simple, high-quality execution – which is accurate. Though it comes from a brand better known for its handbags and scarves, the H08 is a watch done well in many ways. Initial thoughts The H08 is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Slim and lightweight, it has a design that is interesting despite being simple. And its technical credentials are solid, albeit not fancy, with the H1837 movement inside being a Vaucher calibre. Although the H08 does evoke other watch designs, it still manages to look original. And it does look like a Hermes product, which might be important to some buyers, thanks to the touch of orange in the seconds hand that remains discreet enough to suit those who don’t care for obvious emblems. The H1837 Characterised by geometric shapes, the styling is modern while incorporating accents that illustrate Hermes’ traditional attention to detail. The font used for the hour numerals, for instance, was designed specifically for the H08 and echoes the cushion shape of the case. And the same font is used for the date, ensuring perfect consistency in its typography (though it does impact legibility of the date somewhat). On t...

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Business News: Consolidation in European Pre-Owned Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Jul 5, 2021

Business News: Consolidation in European Pre-Owned Watches

Historically fragmented and dominated by numerous small players, the pre-owned watch industry has been consolidating with at an increasing pace, driven by the e-commerce and ambitious entrants from outside the business. Amongst the most prominent and fastest-growing is Watchbox, which began as an offshoot of authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers but has since grown into one of the largest pre-owned merchants with outposts in Hong Kong, Dubai, and even South Africa. Even Richemont, the Swiss conglomerate that owns brands like Cartier and IWC, has invested substantially in the space with its 2018 acquisition of British outfit Watchfinder. Though the most widely-reported developments in the business are largely concentrated in the United States and Britain, continental Europe is experiencing similar growth, especially in its largest markets like Germany and France. The recently announced takeover of Paris-based MMC by Watchmaster in Germany illustrates many of the trends shaping the pre-owned business. Like many recent startups in the space, Watchmaster was founded by digital entrepreneurs instead of watch industry insiders. In fact, almost all of Watchmaster’s founders and senior managers are former employees of Quandoo, the restaurant booking platform that was sold to Japanese staffing giant Recruit Holdings in 2015 for about €200 million, shortly before Watchmaster was set up. Watchmaster’s current chief executive, Tim-Hendrik Meyer, was a cofounder of Quandoo, as a...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 Time+Tide
Jul 5, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400

I do love a good 38-40mm vintage-infused diver’s watch and, while some have come and gone from my box, they always tickle my fancy. But I also enjoy a touch of bling in my tool watches. Nothing against monochrome sharpness and the pure white print on a matte black dial, but like a watch-addicted magpie, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The HVD SpectreDiver is a cracking vintage diver for under $400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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