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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 15, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano

Announced as a prelude to the 90th anniversary of its iconic reversible wristwatch, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is the final debut from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) for 2020. Cleverly constructed to utilise the twin faces of the watch for two time zones, the Tribute Duoface was already launched earlier in the year in a similar guise, with a dark blue dial. Now it returns with a pleasing metallic-burgundy dial that’s once again equipped with a strap made by Argentinian polo-boot maker Casa Fagliano – in a 190-piece limited edition that’ll be available only at JLC boutiques. Initial thoughts Rendered in a glossy, metallic burgundy, the dial of the new Reverso is striking. It suits the colour of the pink-gold case well, while also giving a more vibrant look to a watch that is usually dressed in more sedate colours. The Tribute Duoface feels a little bit thick for an elegant watch, something that’s accented by the curve of the back, a feature devised to help it sit better on the wrist. Also at odds with the style of the watch is the strap. Robustly made of canvas with leather ends, the strap feels more suited to something far more sporty. Nonetheless the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is still an attractive watch. And it’s not only the look that appeals, but also the movement within. Although the cal. 854A/2 is several decades old – the original cal. 854 was unveiled in 1994 with the first-generation Reverso Duo – it remains simple, sensible, and smart in h...

Prices Reached: Four Richard Milles And The Legendary Panerai Luminor Slytech Daylight Belonging to Sylvester Stallone Sold At The Phillips New York December 2020 Auction Quill & Pad
Richard Mille s Dec 14, 2020

Prices Reached: Four Richard Milles And The Legendary Panerai Luminor Slytech Daylight Belonging to Sylvester Stallone Sold At The Phillips New York December 2020 Auction

Phillips' year-end auction, Racing Pulse, took place on Saturday, December 12, 2020 in New York. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights five epic timepieces from Richard Mille and Panerai owned and worn by Hollywood action star Sylvester Stallone, sometimes in famous films, and shares the (astronomical) prices some of these watches reached at the auction.

Prices Reached: 12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon Quill & Pad
Panerai history including Dec 14, 2020

Prices Reached: 12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon

The Phillips Racing Pulse auction showcased something of a timeline of Panerai history, including the legendary Luminor Slytech Daylight owned by Sylvester Stallone, as well as Paul Newman's own Rolex Daytona and Steve McQueen's own Heuer Monaco from the filming of 'Le Mans.' Elizabeth Doerr shares 12 of the extremely entertaining highlights here and the prices that the watches sold for.

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain: A Fork In The Road, A Pivot, Or Something Else Entirely? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Dec 13, 2020

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain: A Fork In The Road, A Pivot, Or Something Else Entirely? – Reprise

At Baselworld 2018 young boutique brand Akrivia launched its Chronomètre Contemporain, the very first timepiece in the Rexhep Rexhepi Collection. To say that Joshua Munchow is impressed is an understatement, but there is more to it: this watch could represent a new, diverged direction for the independent watchmaker.

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 12, 2020

VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist

Hublot is a brand that does not always get its horological due. The movements that the brand does not produce in-house are horological footnotes compared to the movements that they do. At their core, Hublot are a bold, brave and forward-thinking manufacturer, and an excellent example of this temerity is the Meca-10 movement. As its … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic watch is horological sorcery on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e SJX Watches
Minase Dec 11, 2020

Minase Introduces the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e

Set up only in 2005, Minase is a Japanese brand that excels in high-end cases, befitting a company that’s an offshoot of precision toolmaker Kyowa Co., which also manufactures watch cases and bracelets. The latest from Minase combines its top-of-the-line case making with artisanal craft – the Divido Deep Blue Urushi Silver Maki-e has a traditional lacquer dial created collaboration by lacquer artist Megumi Shimamoto. Initial thoughts Exuding a Japanese character in how it combines cutting-edge technology with an ancient craft, the new Divide has a sharply-finished, angular case with an artisanal dial. As with all Minase watches, the case finishing is the most obvious highlight – not only is the case itself elaborate and multifaceted, but each of the surfaces has been finished to a high level with a flat polishing technique, resulting in well-defined breaks between brushed and polished planes. Resembling the robots of Japanese anime, the sleek is design interrupted by only one element, the oversized date window, which mars the purity of the lacquer dial. That said, the date wheel itself is done in good taste, being black with white print. Megumi Shimamoto carefully applies urushi to the dial with a finely-tipped brush In a world of uninspired, recycled watch designs, the Divido is a breath of fresh air – at a hefty price. With its well-executed case and Japanese lacquer dial, the new Divido costs a bit over 5,300 Swiss francs, a 63% premium over the version launc...

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Smoked Red SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Dec 11, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Smoked Red

Just last year Montblanc introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph powered by a gorgeous, mono-pusher Minerva movement. Debuted in a bronze case, the watch was a hit, and for good reason, it combined attractive, well-chosen vintage details and an well-finished movement, all for a very fair price. Having unveiled several other limited-edition versions of the watch since, Montblanc is continuing with the theme with the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 8, an exclusive for Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches that has a smoked, dark red dial and a titanium case. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph for Sincere Initial thoughts After the launch edition, Montblanc debuted an eight-piece limited edition in November 2019 made for Mexican watch fair Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR) that had a striking jade dial, which was followed by a hundred-piece limited edition with a stunning gradient-blue grand feu enamel dial in April of this year. And in between, it managed to put together a one-off example with an agate dial for charity auction Only Watch 2019. That makes the new Sincere edition the fifth iteration of the 1858 split seconds in less than 24 months. But fortunately it does not feel overdone – yet – given the small production runs for each version, as well as the interesting variety of dial materials. The first version of the 1858 split seconds in bronze The most obvious point of appeal of the watch is movement, which is derived from...

VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 11, 2020

VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium

Hublot don’t do things by half. If they do something, they do it full throttle, and you can see that in the in-house movements they produce. You won’t find a simple three-handed caliber; no, instead you’ll find chronographs, tourbillons and some of the most impressive power reserves in the game. Of their in-house movements, this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price Time+Tide
Dec 10, 2020

VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price

It isn’t an uncommon occurrence for old watch brands to be revived. But for a brand to be resuscitated by the great-great-grandson of the founder is a rarer event. With Eugen Wegner, that’s exactly what happened. The brand was founded way back in 1897 in Gdańsk, Poland, and became successful selling pocket watches and marine … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Eugen Wegner One delivers a magnificent lacquer dial at a bafflingly good price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Grande Lune in Blue SJX Watches
Breguet style numerals Dec 10, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Grande Lune in Blue

Possibly the most iconic Hermès watch, the asymmetrical Arceau has been used to showcase complications like the recent minute repeater with tourbillon or the quirky L’Heure de la Lune. A counterpoint to that is the Arceau Grande Lune, an accessible watch that still preserves the design elements that make the Arceau so recognisable. With its latest facelift, the Arceau Grande Lune now has an altogether more modern aesthetic with a two-tone, metallic blue dial. Initial thoughts The new Grande Lune is a handsome watch with all the typical design cues of the Arceau, from the Breguet-style numerals for both the hours and date to the stirrup-inspired case. At the same time, the Arceau Grande Lune is a more formal-looking watch than recent releases from Hermes that had a bit more whimsy, most notably the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. The distinctive lugs are larger on the top While the “XL”, 43 mm Arceau case is ideal for showing off uber-complications, it is perhaps a shade too large for a more formal watch, especially one with an old-school triple-calendar and moon phase. It’s still a good looking watch, with a style that is more contemporary than earlier iterations of the model. The dial is dressed in a fashionable colour, but has plenty of visual interest thanks to the clever use of varied surface textures that give it a subtle two-tone finish. And despite the case design being over 40 years old, the Arceau still feels current thanks to its subtle asy...

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist

Even after such a strong year for Hublot, and after getting up close and personal with the Black Magic version here, the new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium still intrigues me with its intricately woven industrial micro-architecture. Even as the Big Bang series is getting close to becoming an industry standard for large, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium feels like the future on your wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT

Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets  second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

Launched with a solid-colour, grand feu enamel dial, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon has been given simple but significant facelift with a new dial that’s a mix of aventurine glass and vitreous enamel. Made up of ground, powdered aventurine glass mixed with enamel powder, the dial has a deep, glossy surface with the characteristic sparkly metallic inclusions of aventurine glass. Initial thoughts When Audemars Piguet first launched the Code 11.59, only the perpetual calendar model had an aventurine-glass dial, and it was one of the best looking watches in the line up. Though not exactly identical, the aventurine-glass dials on the new tourbillons are no doubt as appealing, especially since they fill up the expanse of the dial. Even though the Code 11.59 lacks the desirability of the fashionable Royal Oak, it is an appealing watch when done right, as this one is. The new dial is a good fit for the case, which was well done to begin with. Featuring a fairly complex construction for a round watch, the case is sharply finished. Arguably the only downside of the case is its size, which is not large at 41 mm wide, but feels chunky on the wrist. The cal. 2950 made its debut last year with the Code 11.59. Also found in the recently launched Royal Oak tourbillon, the cal. 2950 is an attractively designed movement with an unusual detail: a grande sonnerie-style winding click integrated onto the barrel ratchet wheel. With a retail price of about US$150,000, the Code 11...

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why

There are three reasons to gift your child a smartwatch. One, it is a great way to introduce your kid(s) to the horological world and get them going early on their love for a timekeeper on the wrist. The second reason is timing; the holidays are almost here. The third reason is, having done some … ContinuedThe post A Beginner’s Guide to the best smartwatches for Kids in 2020 – 5 of the most popular and why appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 9 – Dumi Oburota, the man who launched Tinie Tempah, has a collection to envy Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 9 – Dumi Oburota, the man who launched Tinie Tempah, has a collection to envy

Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series, ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. … ContinuedThe post 11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 9 – Dumi Oburota, the man who launched Tinie Tempah, has a collection to envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters Revolution
Omega Speedmaster sit down Dec 8, 2020

Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters

Roy & Sacha Davidoff, two individuals we love and consider to be some of the best minds in all things Omega Speedmaster, sit down with Wei Koh over Zoom to give us their two cents on all of the Speedmasters that make up the Temple of Speed collection. The Temple of Speed is Revolution’s complete collection of vintage and modern collectible OMEGA Speedmasters, now on permanent display at the Revolution Watch Bar, in Singapore.

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJX Watches
Grand Seiko remakes are numerous making Dec 8, 2020

Seiko Introduces the 140th Anniversary King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation

Introduced in 1961 as a top-of-the-line Seiko, the King Seiko label is being revived for the brand’s 140th anniversary. A remake of the second King Seiko model of 1965, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Re-creation of King Seiko KSK (ref. SJE083) is a limited-edition automatic that’s only the second King Seiko remake in as many decades. It comes along a long time after the first very remake, which was the SCVN001 introduced as part of the Historical Collection in 2000. Initial thoughts Like most Seiko remakes, the King Seiko KSK is faithfully executed, albeit with a few tweaks to accommodate the new movement. The case is larger than the original, and the dial now incorporates a date display. But the tweaks to the design are done artfully enough that the remake still looks very much like a vintage watch. And while Grand Seiko remakes are numerous, making them less uncommon than they once were, this is only the second King Seiko remake to date. While it is almost a certainty there will be more remakes to come, this is fairly special edition for the time being. The vintage King Seiko KSK “44KS” of 1965 Interestingly, the remake also sits in between Grand Seiko and entry-level models like the Presage in both price and quality, making it a useful proposition for someone who has a budget that doesn’t quite reach Grand Seiko level. Fittingly since the vintage original was conceived as a high-end wristwatch – comparable to Grand Seiko but perhaps a step down in luxury –...