Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGW264 60th Anniversary Limited Edition With Engraved Dial
A special anniversary calls for a special watch.
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Hodinkee
Deployant
New and reviewed: Hublot Big Bang Integral
Hublot enters the lucrative genre of the luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet with the Big Bang Integral self winding flyback chrono.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Professional Diver's 600M SLGA001, With New Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5
The latest evolution of Spring Drive, in a very serious tool watch.
Revolution
Grand Seiko turns 60 with 3 models inspired by the ref 3180
Grand Seiko turns 60 this year, and it hits the watch industry with a slew of the greatest hits from the brand.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Diver 600M SLGA001
Having just unveiled the impressive 9SA5 automatic movement in the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002 as part of its 60th anniversary line-up, Grand Seiko is also rolling out a newly-developed Spring Drive movement – the first with a five-day power reserve and thermocompensation. Unusually, the new calibre is making its debut in a dive watch, the Grand Seiko 600M Professional Diver’s watch (ref. SLGA001). Characterised by large, angular lugs, case design of the new diver is familiar, borrowing from the current Grand Seiko high-frequency dive watches. In short, it’s the typical Grand Seiko diver look, meaning big, bold and chunky, measuring 46.9 mm in diameter and 16 mm high. Both the case and bracelet are made of Seiko’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium, which 30% lighter than steel and more resistant to scratches, so the size of the SLGA001 does not translate into substantial weight. Likewise, the dark blue dial retains the usual Grand Seiko dive watch styling. Legibility is maximised with large hands and hour markers – both with generous amounts of luminous paint. The date display on the new diver is at four o’clock, instead of the usual three o’clock. But the date is not just a relocation – thanks to the new 9RA5 movement, the date disc jumps at a “greatly increased” speed for a crisper changeover. The 9RA5 While the design of the watch contains no surprises, the Spring Drive movement inside is brand new and incorporates several features originally...
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My Watch Story: Continuing The Family Tradition by Norbert Schmeidler
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the First GS 1960 Re-Creation (Including in Titanium)
Sometimes known as the “3180” after the movement inside, the very first Grand Seiko model of 1960 is an indisputably important watch in the history of the brand. Unsurprisingly, the first Grand Seiko has been remade on several occasions as commemorative limited editions. For the 60th anniversary of Grand Seiko, a “re-creation” of the first Grand Seiko is being added to the regular collection – including a surprising version with a titanium case. With reissues of the 3180 having been done for the 120th and 130th anniversary of Seiko, and most recently in 2017 when Grand Seiko was spun off as an independent brand, the 3180 remake is now on its fourth iteration, making it pretty familiar. The latest remakes might not please anyone who owns the preceding editions, but for anyone who missed out they are spot on. But the new re-creation is distinct in several ways. The case is 38 mm, larger than the 35 mm original, and identical to the 2017 edition. More notably, it has a sapphire case back, a first for a 3180 remake. The 9S64 visible through the display back Three versions are available, each distinguished in material and dial colour but also in more subtle details. The top-of-the-line model is the platinum re-creation SBGW257. This has a solid gold dial matched with solid gold hour markers, as well as an engraved logo at 12 o’clock, a detail inspired by the dials of early 3180s. Because of the precious metal dial, it has a small star at above six o’clock, which ...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry SBGD205
For its 60th anniversary, Grand Seiko has just unveiled one of the most extravagant, and expensive, watches ever – the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch (ref. SBGD205). Combining the flagship Spring Drive model – made at the artisanal Micro Artist Studio – with a lavish setting of diamonds and sapphires, the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is a departure from the typical, subtle formality of Grand Seiko design. The base of the Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch is the SBGD201, an immense, heavy and refined wristwatch powered by the impressive 9R01 movement. Equipped with three barrels that give it a 192-hour power reserve, the 9R01 is finished to the same level as the much-vaunted Credor Eichi II, thought the massive full bridge means there are few details visible on the back. The dial of the watch is unusual. Though Grand Seiko (and Seiko) have always produced jewelled watches for women, this is probably the first heavily gem-set men’s model in a long time. The centre of the dial has a granular, slightly sparkly “dial dust” finish that is identical to the dial finish on the standard Grand Seiko 8 Days. But it has a subtle constellation of Leo – the Grand Seiko emblem is a lion – incorporated into the surface of the dial and visible only up close. Around the diamond-dust centre are two white gold chapter rings, one set with large, baguette-cut stones and the other with smaller, brilliant-cut stone. Each of the hours and ...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002
Of the half-dozen commemorative editions Grand Seiko is rolling out to mark its 60th anniversary, one watch is significant over all the others, because it has a brand-new calibre that represents the first of a new generation of movements. A complete rethink of the 9S family of movements – first unveiled 22 years ago – the 9SA5 makes its debut in the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SLGH002). While the movement is cutting-edge for the brand, the design of the SLGH002 is a throwback to vintage Grand Seiko – the dial emulates the aesthetics of the first Grand Seiko 3180 of 1960 but with a modern twist, namely with widened hands and hour markers. As a result, the dial is quintessential Grand Seiko, having a sculptural quality thanks to the broad dauphine hands and substantial, applied 18k gold hour markers. Even the frame around the date window is 18k gold. The star above six o’clock indicates “SD”, or “special dial”, which means gold hour markers (and sometimes a gold dial) Made of 18k yellow gold, the case has a diameter of 40 mm and a thickness of 11.7 mm. Most of its surfaces have a brushed finish, interspersed with wide, faceted bevels that are mirror polished. The watch is notably thin for a self-winding Grand Seiko – the typical high-frequency Grand Seiko has a case just over 13 mm high – as a result of the new 9SA5 movement, which is the work of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (formerly known as the Shizukuishi Watch Studio). ...
Quill & Pad
5 Celebrity Wrist Checks Featuring Nicholas Hoult/Jaeger-LeCoultre, Aldis Hodge/MB&F;, Miralem Pjaniç/Corum, And Lionel Messi/Jacob & Co
Watch spotting on celebrity wrists can be a lot of fun if you’re watching a movie or TV show. Oh, who is Elizabeth kidding? It’s always a lot of fun. Here she shares five watches that caught her eye on the wrists of celebrities over the last couple of weeks.
Hodinkee
Business News: So ... Now What?
Coronavirus and the Swiss watch industry: An update.
Video
Would You Buy a Rolex Submariner Over THIS Watch? | Watchfinder & Co.
WatchAdvice
Rolex Submariner Alternatives
The Rolex Submariner is considered a benchmark for diving watches. It was introduced in 1953 as the first divers’ watch that was waterproof to 100 metres. The Submariner is so popular that some brands have created watches of their own that look very similar. If you’re not wedded to the Submariner then give some thought to the following three alternative watches that are just as good as the Submariner. What’s more is that they don’t have the hefty price tag or lengthy waitlists making them more appealing. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight The Tudor Black Bay 58 was released in 2018 at Baselworld and celebrates Tudor’s very first divers watch that was introduced in 1958. Tudor has always been seen as the more affordable alternative to Rolex after all it is a sub-brand of Rolex. The Tudor Black Bay 58 is priced at $5000 AUD and is the least expensive of the three alternative models. What I Instantly loved about the Tudor Black bay 58 are it’s gold hour markers, tudors snow flake hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel. These gold finishing touches are classy and stand out well against the black dial making it easier to tell the time. The black bay 58 has lume on all 12 hour makers, the snowflake hands and the 12 hour pip on the bezel. I’d say the lume on this watch is a strong point as it really pops. It has a 39mm steel case with a polished and satin finish which is similar to the size of the Submariner’s 40mm case. It’s got a unidirectional rotatab...
SJX Watches
Young Japanese Watchmaker Norifumi Seki Makes His Debut
Just 23 years old – he was born in 1997 – Norifumi Seki graduated from watchmaking school last year, and recently completed his first timepiece, the Sphere Moon Phase Pocket Watch. Though inspired by the works of past watchmakers, Mr Seki’s creation is surprisingly novel in both aesthetics and construction, especially since it is essentially a school project. Based in Tokyo, Mr Seki has trod a short path to create this impressive watch. After graduating from junior high school, which is for children aged 12 to 15 in Japan, his interest in mechanics and craftsmanship led him to fabricate simple objects, including a beautifully-made folding knife. Inspiration In 2016, Mr Seki met Masahiro Kikuno – arguably Japan’s most interesting contemporary watchmaker – who inspired him to manufacture a watch by hand. And so at age 18, Mr Seki entered Hiko Mizuno College of Jewelry, a school in Tokyo’s Shibuya district that also teaches watchmaking and shoemaking. During his final year in school, Mr Seki started on his own watch. It’s a large pocket watch with a regulator-style time display, oversized date and month indicators, along with an extra-large spherical moon phase. Spherical moon and drum calendar Made entirely of titanium, the moon phase is 20 mm in diameter and set via a recessed pusher in the case band. A third of the sphere is heat-blued titanium, while the other is coated in gold. Show in two large windows, each containing two drums for the digits, the cale...
Time+Tide
Three things we’re *really* digging about the Zenith X Revolution El Primero A3818 Revival
Last week, Zenith and Revolution magazine, as well as sister publication The Rake, dropped this – the El Primero A3818 Revival “Cover Girl”. This watch is a dead ringer for the original El Primero “Cover Girl”, so-called because it was the watch featured on the cover of Manfred Rössler’s book Zenith: Swiss Watch Manufacture Since 1865. … ContinuedThe post Three things we’re *really* digging about the Zenith X Revolution El Primero A3818 Revival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New and reviewed: Citizen Kuroshio ’64
Citizen revives the Spirit of the Iconic Parawater with the new Kuroshio ’64 series of 5 watches. We go hands-on with the new watch.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
How COVID-19 Could Impact Horology in 2020
Join the TBWS writing team for our very first episode of the TBWS Writers' Room! The crew sit down and have an honest conversation about the very real impact that COVID-19 is having on the watch industry. From large brands to smaller brands, everyone is feeling the impact.
Video
⌚ What is an Entry Level Watch ?
Time+Tide
Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already?
Editor’s note: As we’re sure most of you reading this are already aware, Baselworld 2020 is officially dead. Yes, despite the perplexing decision from officials to say that the world’s biggest watch fair had been “postponed” to the end of January 2021, it has, like so many other trade shows this year, fallen victim to … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus may have killed Baselworld 2020 … but was it on the way out already? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
5 Perpetual Calendars In Time For February 29, 2020 From Jaeger-LeCoultre, A. Lange & Söhne, Bovet, Habring2, And Parmigiani
The perpetual calendar is often the perfect way for watch manufactures to show off craftsmanship and ability, but how brands do this varies. Here Elizabeth Doerr highlights five very different perpetual calendars introduced in 2019, just in time for the leap year turn on February 29, 2020.
Time+Tide
No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1
It was only a day ago that the watch world was reacting to the cancellation of Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly SIHH), as a result of the increasing spread of the Coronavirus, and wondering if Baselworld would suffer the same fate in 2020. Overnight, the answer was given, as Baselworld announced that it would be … ContinuedThe post No Baselworld this year, for the first time since World War 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Virus That Went Viral – What The Market Might Say…
Ross Povey ponders the impact of the recent spate of cancelations of watch events and its wider impact on the watch market…
![Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated]](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Baselworld-building-messeplatz.jpg)
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Baselworld 2020 Cancelled, Becomes Baselworld 2021 [Updated]
On a fast-moving Friday that started with the first case of the COVID-19 coronavirus in the city of Basel being diagnosed according to Swiss newspaper Le Temps, the day culminated in the organisers of Baselworld 2020 announcing its postponement to January 2021, essentially cancelling this year’s trade fair. This comes a day after the organisers of Geneva watch fair Watches & Wonders announced it was cancelled, which wipes out the entire year’s calendar for the major watch industry events. Though the Baselworld organisers had initially planned to meet on Monday, March 2, according to an announcement by Hubert J. du Plessix, the president of the event’s exhibitors committee (and also the director of investments and logistics at Rolex), events got ahead of them. The primary catalyst Baselworld’s cancellation was the Swiss government declaring a ban on all gatherings of over 1,000 people, until at least March 15 – which instantly made the Geneva Motor Show, one of the automotive industry’s most important events, a non-starter. Now Baselworld 2021 will take place from January 28 to February 2, with press day happening on January 27. Baselworld managing director Michel Loris-Melikoff, commenting in the announcement of the event’s cancellation, stated “We have found a solution that enables the industry and all our customers to avoid losing a full year and at the same time reset their calendars for the beginning of the year, a period that is conductive to the...
Video
⌚ 5 SHOCKING SECRETS of the Watch Industry !
Deployant
Review: Angelus U51 Diver Tourbillon
We take a deep dive with the Angelus Diver Tourbillon U51 - an saturation dive watch with a tourbillon. Analytical review with live photographs and details.
Revolution
A Note from Our Founder
Revolution’s founding editor pens his thoughts about the COVID-19 virus’ global impact, it’s effect on the watch industry and how we must and will ride out this storm.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hydrophobia, The Longines Heritage Classic Sector, and You
Learn how the Longines Heritage Classic Sector helped TBWS Junior Contributor Aggressive Timing Habits overcome his horological hydrophobia in this watch review!
Time+Tide
Why tourbillons are more accessible than ever thanks to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T
Editor’s note: The tourbillon is an anachronism that is representative of the watch industry as a whole in a little way. It was conceived hundreds of years ago to solve problems that were pressing at the time, but despite being technologically surpassed by other devices in the meantime, it is currently facing its heyday with … ContinuedThe post Why tourbillons are more accessible than ever thanks to the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Andrio’s Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001
We were the stars of the show at the first ever Time+Tide event in Brisbane a few weeks back. That is, until Andrio turned up with his Patek Philippe Aquanaut. This watch has a way of winning the day, whenever it gets revealed from under a cuff. I started my watch collections with Panerai. … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Andrio’s Patek Philippe Aquanaut ref. 5167A-001 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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