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Ingenieur IWC

IWC's 1955 anti-magnetic engineer watch, redesigned by Gérald Genta in 1976 and revived in 2023.

Business News: Richemont Acquires Milanese Jeweller Buccellati SJX Watches
Panerai Sep 27, 2019

Business News: Richemont Acquires Milanese Jeweller Buccellati

Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...

Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch Time+Tide
Bulgari s Gérald Genta 50th Sep 23, 2019

Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Editor’s note: I think it’s fairly safe to say that Gérald Charles Genta is the 20th century’s most notable designer of wristwatches. Many know the list of his accomplishments, but the sheer scope and impact of his unique and inspired design language is still sometimes difficult to grasp. Royal Oak, Nautilus, Constellation, Ingenieur, Golden Ellipse … ContinuedThe post Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jul 30, 2019

Hands-On: Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition”

Despite being one of many recent startups specialising in stylish, affordable watches, Gorilla has managed to set itself apart from a crowded field by creating watches that are well designed and smartly detailed. That’s because the Gorilla was founded in 2016 by two veterans watch design: Lukas Gopp, an alumni of IWC and Audemars Piguet, and the better known of the pair, Octavio Garcia. Mr Garcia spent almost 15 years at Audemars Piguet, five of them as chief designer; one of his most famous and successful creations was the Royal Oak Offshore “Alinghi” in forged carbon, one of the hottest watches of the mid-2000s. Gorilla now only offers essentially a single model – the Fastback – in several variations, with the design and colours inspired by 1950s American muscle cars. And it is obvious that several of its watches are reminiscent of certain Audemars Piguet timepieces. But with the Gorilla watch case having a distinctive profile of its own, coupled with the fact that most of its watches cost less than US$800, Gorilla watches have an easy appeal. A gilded 15 This particular Gorilla is a limited edition made for the 15th anniversary of Red Army Watches, a Singapore-based retailer that specialises in affordable watches; amongst the other brands it carries are SevenFriday and Grand Seiko. Formally known as the RAW x Gorilla Fastback Celebratory Edition, the watch is not drastically different from the standard model that serves as the base, the Fastback Gal...

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin saw overall sales dip Jul 18, 2019

Business News: Richemont and Swatch Results; Massive Inventories at Swatch

Swiss watchmaking groups Richemont and Swatch Group just announced their first quarter and six-month results for 2019 respectively, with each going in opposite directions. Owner of brands like Cartier, IWC and Panerai, Richemont saw growth across most segments and regions. Overall sales were up 12% at constant exchange rates, with every region growing in the low teens save for the Middle East and Africa. Sales in Asia grew 10%, led by China, where demand is up due to lower taxes locally on luxury goods and more stringent checks on travellers importing items bought overseas. Most notable was the performance of its online channels, namely luxury fashion mall Yoox Net-a-Porter (YNAP), pre-owned watch merchant Watchfinder, and to a lesser extent. That growth is from a low base of comparison: last year’s first quarter for each platform was only two and one month respectively. That being said, online sales are still substantial, rising to 50% to €648m, almost equal to the €698m of sales in the Americas as a whole. The group’s watchmaking brands, which include A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, saw overall sales dip 2%. This was attributed to a reduction in the number of sales channels as well as reduced orders of new product by retailers. Up in Biel, where the Swatch Group has its headquarters, half-year sales were down 3.7% at constant exchange rates, to 4.07 billion Swiss francs. Net profit followed suit, shrinking 11.3% to 415m francs. For the full year, howe...

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 4, 2019

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019

Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”,  and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...

VIDEO: 5 of the best independent watches from SIHH 2018 Time+Tide
Montblanc Mar 8, 2018

VIDEO: 5 of the best independent watches from SIHH 2018

If you know a little bit about how the world of watches works, you’ll likely know that it’s a space dominated by a few big groups (namely Richemont, Swatch and LVMH), each with their own stable of brands. SIHH is a show dominated by Richemont brands - big names like Cartier, IWC and Montblanc. But … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 of the best independent watches from SIHH 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type Time+Tide
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Dec 8, 2016

ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type

You don’t often see pics of Santa in the desert. But if you did, and if he’d put an appropriate amount of thought into his watch choice, you’d see either an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar or this Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type on his wrist. Both have that … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 9 – The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Benzinger Meets Zanella; Watch Collector Anniversary Watch Revolution
Patek Philippe s 175th Anniversary collection Jun 11, 2015

Benzinger Meets Zanella; Watch Collector Anniversary Watch

Watches that commemorate anniversaries are often amongst the most desirable. Collectors still hunt for pieces of Cartier’s 150th and Patek Philippe’s 175th Anniversary collection, and probably will do the same in the near future for REVOLUTION’s own anniversary Panerai and IWC. That such celebrations often result in the creation of truly unique watches is once […]

WWG26: And it’s a wrap! Deployant
Apr 19, 2026

WWG26: And it’s a wrap!

DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Four full and fulfilling days has come to an end. We published some 500 IG short stories, 21 IG Reels and Posts, and 37 website articles during this week. And we are talking a rest today. We start tomorrow with Armchair picks which will run the whole week. We will have two guests posting their [...] The post WWG26: And it’s a wrap! appeared first on DEPLOYANT.