Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 11, Ultra 3, and SE 3
Spending a few days with the 2025 updates to the best-selling watches in the world.
3,920 articles · 373 videos found · page 67 of 144
Hodinkee
Spending a few days with the 2025 updates to the best-selling watches in the world.
SJX Watches
The most recent launch from A. Lange & Söhne was surprising, even while being familiar. The 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel is, well, an 1815 Tourbillon with a black enamel dial. Nothing about the watch is unexpected, since all the elements have been employed elsewhere. But the watch is outstanding in quality, as is expected for a Lange, and strikingly and usually beautiful. Moreover, it is priced reasonably well, as such things go. Initial thoughts Cosmetic variations of an existing model are rarely great, but the new 1815 Tourbillon manages to be that. The original 1815 Tourbillon was fundamentally a good watch – well made and functionally designed – but a little plain. The latest variation is outstanding. It’s just as well made, but the black enamel dial adds oomph. No risks were taken with the aesthetics; it is exactly the same in terms of design, but now in glossy black enamel. The tourbillon also hacks and includes a zero-reset seconds Perhaps most unexpected is the price. Many recent Lange releases often felt too expensive, this breaks the habit. At just under US$220,000, the 1815 Tourbillon is priced fairly, maybe even competitively, in its segment. In this respect, the 1815 Tourbillon reminds me of the Tribute to Celestial, an equally surprisingly well priced watch by Lange’s sister company Vacheron Constantin. And for the lucky, lucky few, Lange bestowed a baguette diamond bezel on a handful of these tourbillons, which raises the price by only about US$7...
Monochrome
If he had already spent years working for some of the biggest names in the watch industry, Sylvain Berneron truly made a name for himself on the independent watchmaking scene in 2023 with the launch of the first watch under his own brand. The unapologetically elegant and original Mirage – a shaped watch with an […]
WatchAdvice
As Raymond Weil comes out of their shell, so do more incredible timepieces. But have they hit a new peak with the Freelancer Complete Calendar? Let’s find out! What We Love: An elegant and versatile design Quality-of-life upgrades to a classic complication Excellent value proposition with few competitors What We Don’t: Movement finishing somewhat lacklustre Calendar is hard to see from a distance Do we need the lume? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 There’s a rapid surge happening in watchmaking right now. No, I’m not talking about the newly imposed 39% U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches (though that’s a story in itself), but rather the quiet re-emergence of the middle market. As household names climb further upmarket, a new wave of brands are pushing harder than ever, flexing their creative and horological muscles to prove what they’re truly capable of. Christopher Ward is one; Frederique Constant and Maurice Lacroix are others. But perhaps the most impressive contender in this power shift is none other than Raymond Weil. Nearly 50 years young, the family-owned independent has been quietly racking up achievements and accolades. Their breakout moment came with the GPHG-winning Millésime collection, followed by ambitious world timers and flyback chronographs — complications that once felt far beyond the brand’s reach. And at Watches & Wonders Geneva this year, Raymond Weil unveiled perhaps its most...
Monochrome
Some watches truly need to be seen in person and worn on the wrist to be fully understood and appreciated. A flat digital rendering or a simple image doesn’t do them justice. You could easily argue that this is true for most timepieces, but in reality, there are occasions where you know the watch is […]
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Revolution
Worn & Wound
Our first meeting at thai year’s Geneva Watch Days might turn out to be one of the best. Renaud Tixier launched during Watches & Wonders week of 2024 with a bold idea: seven revolutionary horological creations, released in a series of watches that will take nearly two decades to complete. Their first watch, the Monday (guess what the others will be called) is an attempt to solve the problem of the micro-rotor. While these small, often heavy rotors are wonderful for creating automatic watches that are nearly as thin as manually wound watches (and for showing off elaborate movement decoration) they are inherently inefficient. The Monday seeks to solve that problem with a completely new horological invention. The Renaud of Renaud Tixier is Dominique Renaud, the legendary watchmaker who was one half of the famed Renaud & Papi firm, who carved out a niche for themselves in the 1980s and 90s by creating ultra high end complications for the most prestigious brands. Renaud Tixier works along similar lines, but of course is a brand unto itself, and Renaud seems free to pursue whatever horological problem solving might be of interest to him. These watches, while incredibly beautiful, are ultimately for the hardcore movement nerds among us. The innovation of this first Renaud Tixier caliber is in the behavior of the micro-rotor. The brand refers to it as “the Dancer” because of the way the mechanism seems to dance at even the slightest jostle. Renaud Tixier’s micro-rotor ...
Worn & Wound
Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts. Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy. The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....
Hodinkee
Zenith teams with celebrated Swiss furniture maker USM with a colorful El Primero in the original Defy case for the first time and custom USM watch storage.
Hodinkee
The brand's second caliber since the relaunch combines many Genta's favorite elements into one stunning watch.
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Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier is among the most laureled independent watchmakers in recent years, and for good reason. The brand seems to effortlessly blend shapes, colours and mechanics into fascinating yet elegantly discreet watches, even if we’re dealing with a world timer or a tourbillon watch. A prime example is the Sport Auto, one of Frank Geelen’s (our […]
Hodinkee
A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.
Hodinkee
New Hong Kong-based brand serves up design-forward, hearty, ceramic-cased watches for Alpine outings.
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Square Bang Unico Sapphire isn’t just a watch. It’s a crystal-clear showcase of bold design and cutting-edge engineering. From the sapphire case to the architectural Unico movement inside, it is a timepiece that redefines transparency and demands attention on the wrist in a way few others can! What We Love Sapphire case is lightweight, transparent and beautifully executed, turninig the watch into a wearable sculpture The Unico 2 (HUB1280 movement) is one of the best chronograph movements in the modern watch market. Despite being 42mm, it wears surprisingly well thanks to the short lugs and rubber strap, and the wrist presence is unparralelled. What We Don’t Circular movement on a square case is visually noticeable in sapphire form, slightly breaking harmony. The transparency of the subdial makes the date harder to read compared to other models in the Square Bang Unico collection. Transparent rubber strap may show ageing or discolouration over time if exposed to strong sunlight. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value For Money: 9.0/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few watches turn heads quite like a sapphire-cased Hublot. With the Square Bang Unico Sapphire, Hublot takes transparency to new heights, transforming the bold square chronograph into a mechanical sculpture of light and precision. A square-shaped chronograph is rare in watchmaking, with the most iconic being the TAG Heuer Monaco. But as we know, with Hublot, they simply refu...
SJX Watches
With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...
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Deployant
Piaget releases two new in Kaki Green. The first is the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon and the second is the Altiplano Ultimate Automatic.
Hodinkee
The simplest, thinnest version of the Twelve might be the best one yet.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin releases a new addition to their Overseas collection, this time adding two new dial variant to the Perpetual Calendar.
Hodinkee
A new Glaswegian combination of form and function.
Worn & Wound
The British brand Apiar has an intriguing slogan emblazoned across the front page of their website: Impossible Watches. Made Possible. If you spend enough time thinking about watches, collecting watches, and learning about watches, you begin to realize their limitations. Whether they’re chronometry related or have to do with the design and build of the watch itself, there are certain things that just can’t be done, or else stretch the limits of our current technology to the point where those things aren’t remotely feasible. The crazy idea you had for a watch case that defies the laws of physics might be something that only exists on paper. Additive manufacturing and 3D printing technologies have the potential to change that. When a metal object is formed by adding material to it rather than stripping it away, a manufacturer can create shapes, textures, and structures that would be impossible otherwise. Apiar’s Gen1.0 is a thrilling example of the possibilities of 3D printing in watch manufacturing. They’re by no means the first to create watches this way, of course, but they’re part of a new class of brands using the technology in an experimental way that seems to finally make the most of it, creating not just beautiful objects that defy watchmaking convention, but watches that redefine our expectations around durability, lightness, and other metrics by which all of us evaluate these things. Importantly, the use of additive manufacturing also democratizes wat...
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WatchAdvice
As always, Rolex represents the highest possible standard of the watchmaking world – but does this new 1908 model uphold this illustrious reputation? Let’s find out! What We Love: A perfectly executed contemporary design Extremely well-built and highly wearable Surprising value proposition, even among similar pieces What We Don’t: Clasp feels unnecessarily long Scratch and smudge magnet Movement finishing – Too little, too late? Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 9/10 When it comes to watches, there are plenty of uncomfortable truths one must face. They’re hardly life-or-death scenarios, sure — but within the world we navigate as enthusiasts, there are a few pills that are undeniably hard to swallow. Some are classics, like how quartz movements are just as relevant to the industry as mechanical ones, or the ever-lingering question of how much cultural impact wristwatches still hold. But there’s one truth in particular that keeps many a watch lover up at night, clutching their favourite timepiece and hiding under the covers. That truth, of course, is this: Rolex is the greatest watch brand of all time. Naturally, there are plenty of valid, subjective counters to that claim. I, for one, would argue that Casio belongs on the same playing field simply because of its cultural popularity and accessibility. But when you look at the data, the case for Rolex is practically airtight. According to Morgan Stan...
SJX Watches
De Bethune once again has a single-button chronograph to its line-up with the compact DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. Styled after the DB8 from the brand’s early years, the DB25 chronograph has a smaller case but a larger, more refined movement. Importantly, it is most accessible chronographs from the brand in recent memory, both in size and price. Initial Thoughts I hold De Bethune in high regard for its technical ambition and an idiosyncratic design language that blends aesthetic codes from the 18th and 23rd centuries. The distinctive aesthetics were largely the brainchild of cofounder Davide Zanetta, who unfortunately departed the brand several years ago. Fortunately, however, both traits are alive and well in the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph. For several years the brand lacked a conventional chronograph, and I see the new DB25 as the brand’s long-term solution to that problem. Likely shaped by feedback on the recent DB Eight, the DB25 Monopusher has everything it needs to be a staple of the brand’s line-up – moderate sizing, good looks, and complementary calibre. Though based on the brand’s prior chronograph movements, the DB3000 inside the DB25 is interesting in several respects. For one, it retains the oscillating pinion found in the long-ago DB1. The oscillating pinion isn’t well regarded by collectors, seen as less advanced than a vertical clutch and without the theatre of a horizontal coupling. It is possible to make a handsome chronograph with an oscillat...
Monochrome
In recent years, basically since the introduction of the ceramic bezel on the steel edition (the 116500LN), the Daytona has become the hottest watch in Rolex’s portfolio, but also remained a fairly conservative model, with a rather parsimonious use of colours. This hasn’t always been the case, though, and in the past, we’ve seen wild […]
SJX Watches
Now into the second half of its second century, Piaget unveiled the Polo Flying Tourbillon Moonphase, an eccentric entrant in the crowded field of luxury sport watches. The charm of the watch lies in its unusual feature set: an extravagant dial and easy wearing format, which includes interchangeable rubber and leather straps. Housed in a sleek, 44 mm titanium case, the Polo Flying Tourbillon is the most complicated watch in the Polo collection since the underrated Polo Tourbillon Relatif introduced two decades ago. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for watches like the Polo Flying Tourbillon that don’t fit neatly into any pre-conceived category. It’s risky to make watches like this; watches that look a bit odd on the spec sheet but feel good on the wrist. On one hand, it’s overtly sporty with a titanium case, a rubber strap, and a robust 100 m water resistance rating thanks to dual gaskets in the crown. Looked at from another perspective, it’s a piece of true industrial-haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon and a thoughtfully executed pointer-style moonphase indicator, sans date. This last detail stands out to me, because the date and moonphase complications usually go hand-in-hand. To be clear, I don’t miss the date; its absence contributes to the care-free nature of the watch. The 44 mm titanium case looks large on paper, and indeed, the diameter is accentuated by its 9.8 mm case height, which is on the thinner side as such things go. But the Polo wears w...
SJX Watches
Long a pillar of Vacheron Constantin’s line-up, Métiers d’Art has usually been about figurative, decorative, and classical watches, with traditional motifs and techniques being a recurring theme. The Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” is, however, different in style from the usual Métiers d’Art offers, although its distinctive look is inspired by a one-off grand complication from 2021. The Tribute to the Celestial is a combination of familiar elements, but executed in a surprising way. It’s centred on traditional techniques, namely the hand guilloche dial and gem-set case, but modern in approach and aesthetics. The palette is largely blue and almost monochromatic, while the guilloche forms a geometric, polygonal motif. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Tribute to the Celestial is not what you expect. Across a room, it looks like a shiny, all-blue watch that could be ceramic or another contemporary material. It also doesn’t reveal much detail. But up close the Tribute to the Celestial shows off lots of refined detailing; it’s a double dose of metiers d’art, engine turning and gem setting. The primary metiers d’art on the Tribute to the Celestial is the guilloche on the dial that is done by hand in-house at Vacheron Constantin’s engine turning workshop. Instead of the common guilloche found on many watches, this employs straight lines at different angles to create a polygonal motif that forms a zodiac symbol, illustrating the versatility of...
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