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Architect, Reimagined: The MB&F; HM11 Art Deco SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 18, 2025

Architect, Reimagined: The MB&F; HM11 Art Deco

MB&F; opens Dubai Watch Week with a thematic reinterpretation of the HM11 Architect: the HM11 Art Deco. While the underlying structure remains the same, including the strangely satisfying rotate-to-wind case, the latest version goes all in on Art Deco motifs, from sunbeams and stained glass to ziggurats. The 20-piece limited edition also marks a subtle turning point: the growing influence of Maximilian Maertens, who has worked alongside Maximilian Büsser and Eric Giroud since joining the company as an intern in 2017. Initial thoughts Though ‘merely’ a new version of an existing watch, the HM11 Art Deco feels like a sign of things to come from MB&F;. The original HM11 design originated, as so many MB&F; products have, as a collaboration between Maximilian Büsser and designer Eric Giroud. But Mr Büsser is not the only Maximilian to leave an imprint on the HM11 Art Deco; that would be the brand’s Senior Industrial Designer, Berlin-based Maximilian Maertens. Mr Maertens joined MB&F; as an intern in 2017, and has worked on a number of larger objects including the Orb clock made in collaboration with L’Epée 1839. Mr Giroud will no doubt remain as critical as ever, but the growing impact of Mr Maertens is something to watch as MB&F; builds for the future. Tangibly, the Art Deco is much the same watch as the HM11 Architect that debuted two years ago, with its novel rotate-to-wind case and movement. But while everything else seems to have gotten more expensive since 2023, th...

The New Bremoir South Beach, and the Influence of Art Deco Design Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Oct 8, 2025

The New Bremoir South Beach, and the Influence of Art Deco Design

Virtually every watch enthusiast is familiar with Art Deco, even if they don’t know it. Art Deco, short for Arts décoratifs, first appeared in Paris in the 1910s and spread across the globe over the following two decades. You may not be familiar with Art Deco’s principles - bold geometric forms and streamlined, mechanical aesthetics, among them - but you are almost assuredly familiar with some of its most famous designs, like the Cartier Tank and JLC Reverso. Worn & Wound contributor and Art Deco enthusiast Christoph McNeill considers Art Deco “the pinnacle of design,” and says he loves the beauty of the Machine Age design movement’s expression of curves and lines, obsession with mechanical aesthetics, and “streamline” nature. Wristwatches, which became popular about the same time Art Deco came onto the scene, was a natural medium for Art Deco design. “Because they’re little, tiny machines, right? said McNeill. “It sort of went hand-in-hand.” Vintage Art Deco watches from Christoph’s personal collection So, what does Art Deco design look like in watches?  “It means clean lines, very specific fonts,” said watch collector and seller extraordinaire Eric Wind. “I think of a lot of rectangles, squares, things like that. Less round, unless it’s round within a rectangle. A lot of black on silver. I think of that kind of high shine chrome when I think about Deco as well. More silver than gold.” Wind cites “a lot of Pateks from the 20s and ...

Hot Take: The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Combines Tool Vibes With Lifestyle Fratello
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Combines Jul 24, 2025

Hot Take: The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Combines Tool Vibes With Lifestyle

Blancpain introduced the Tech line back in 2023 with the impressive Tech Gombessa. After that came the limited-edition Tech BOC (Blancpain Ocean Commitment) IV earlier this year. Now, we see a permanent addition to the lineup in the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech. The new model introduces a toolless quick-release mechanism to the Fifty Fathoms line. […] Visit Hot Take: The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Combines Tool Vibes With Lifestyle to read the full article.

Venezianico Introduces the Redentore Utopia, Featuring the Italian Made V5000 Caliber Worn & Wound
Venezianico Introduces Jun 13, 2025

Venezianico Introduces the Redentore Utopia, Featuring the Italian Made V5000 Caliber

It tends to be a big deal when a watchmaker unveils their first “in-house” movement, a pivotal milestone that often marks a step into the upmarket. For Italian brand Venezianico, tapping into the expertise of Fausto Berizzi, the technical director of OISA, was the key to their first proprietary mechanical caliber, designed, registered, and built entirely in Italy. The result is the Redentore Utopia, and its beating heart: the V5000 Caliber mechanical movement.  In a break from convention, the Redentore Utopia is more of a stage for the V5000 Caliber movement-a catalyst for the Venezianico brand and its future momentum. Still, Venezianico matches the enthusiasm of the movement with a visually-gripping timepiece that certainly doesn’t signal its status as simply a vessel for the brand’s technical growth. Wearing a 316L stainless steel case that measures at 38mm in diameter and 8.9mm in thickness, the Utopia is firmly a dress watch. The deep blue dial is constructed via ion plating and features a dazzling, hand-engraved guilloché pattern, designed exclusively for the Utopia on a rose engine lathe by master artisan Riccarfo Renzetti. The result is a radial motif that gives the appearance of being in constant motion, with light glancing off each angle as the watch is shifted on the wrist.  On the dial, baton-style, hand-applied indices line the circumference, and faceted alpha hands match the stainless steel case’s polished finish. The sole text detail on the dia...

Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green Fratello
Trilobe May 10, 2025

Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green

Last month, at Watches and Wonders 2025, I visited the Trilobe booth. It was my first time seeing the brand’s watches, and they impressed me. The Parisian company depicts time uniquely through its pieces. The latest Une Folle Journée Rhodium-plated Green is a wearable modern watch in a new colorway. I’m always skeptical when I […] Visit Hot Take: A New Trilobe Une Folle Journée In Green to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold Fratello
Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Apr 2, 2025

Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold

In 2024, Piaget celebrated the 45th anniversary of Yves Piaget’s Polo watch by introducing a re-edition, the Polo 79, in full yellow gold. It came out in February of last year, and RJ dared to say that probably nothing at Watches and Wonders 2024 would trump it. We all know RJ is very much into […] Visit Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again Apr 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber

2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...

Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph Fratello
Mar 28, 2025

Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph

One of last year’s biggest horological surprises for me was the Singer Divetrack, an incredible piece of engineering and design by Singer Reimagined founder Marco Borraccino. But I also quickly realized that its price of CHF 85,000 meant I could only admire it from a distance. That’s fine; I don’t need to own everything I […] Visit Hot Take: The Vintage-Valjoux-Powered Singer Heritage Collection Chronograph to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Seiko 5 Sports Mooneyes Limited Edition SRPL39 Fratello
Seiko 5 Sports Mooneyes Limited Mar 4, 2025

Hot Take: The Seiko 5 Sports Mooneyes Limited Edition SRPL39

Seiko has released a flurry of special and limited Seiko 5 models since the collection staged a comeback in 2019. Today marks the debut of a new model, the Seiko 5 Mooneyes Limited Edition. Fans of hot-rodding culture in Japan, America, and worldwide should find this one fun. Mooneyes is a supplier of custom car […] Visit Hot Take: The Seiko 5 Sports Mooneyes Limited Edition SRPL39 to read the full article.

Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 24, 2025

Hands On: Cartier Tank Américaine “Art Deco”

Launched quietly last year as limited production runs of the standard model, the Tank Américaine “Art Deco” gives a striking new look to a familiar model that was first introduced in 1989. Though the Art Deco-style dial is mostly associated with the low-cost (and low-end) Tank Must de Cartier, it has been artfully applied to the Américaine with varying surface finishing and thoughtful details. The result is a Tank Américaine that looks radically different from the standard model, while being priced the same. Initial thoughts The Tank Américaine was conceived as a modern take on the Tank Cintrée, but because of its wider availability, numerous variants, and comparatively affordable pricing, the Américaine has become something of a poor cousin in the eyes of enthusiasts. The new variants of the Tank Américaine, however, are clearly trying to change that. They look and feel more upscale with the “Art Deco” dials that do away with the central seconds, which are long standard for automatic versions of the Tank Américaine. The yellow gold version Both are identical in dimensions. The case is a little wider and thicker than the Cintrée, so it’s not quite as elegant. And the 1899 MC movement inside is in-house but industrial and not as sophisticated as the manual-wind calibres (that are either Piaget or Jaeger-LeCoultre) in the Cintrée. But the Américaine “Art Deco” is more affordable, with the yellow gold version priced a little over US$16,000. The “Art...

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jan 27, 2025

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...

Hot Take: Living “La Vie En Rose” With The New Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean Fratello
Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Jan 23, 2025

Hot Take: Living “La Vie En Rose” With The New Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean

Last January, Swatch introduced the crowd-pleasing, all-black Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms. Just one month ago, in early December, the Blue Lagoon model made its debut. In 2025, Swatch is looking at life through rose-tinted glasses as it introduces this latest iteration in the SFF lineup. Meet the bright and bold Blancpain × Swatch […] Visit Hot Take: Living “La Vie En Rose” With The New Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Pink Ocean to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II Fratello
Jan 4, 2025

Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II

The 2021 GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet is a unique take on time telling. Its domed dial with an engraved depiction of the earth tells time in a novel way. A good design firm rarely rests on its laurels, though, and the Blue Planet II brings subtle but positive changes. I remember the original CIGA […] Visit Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II to read the full article.

Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Dec 5, 2024

Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion

The trend of rereleasing vintage digital watches continues with the new Hamilton PSR 74. During the past several years, Casio, Girard-Perregaux, and Hamilton have led the charge with faithful yet modern renditions of their ’70s digital creations. These watches blend simple displays with retro-futuristic cases and bracelets. The new PSR follows this form but adds […] Visit Hot Take: The Hamilton PSR 74 - A Faithful New Version Of The Pulsar Cushion to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition Fratello
Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition Dec 2, 2024

Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition

Since visiting Armin Strom at Geneva Watch Days 2024, I’ve been keeping an eye out for the brand’s newest releases. Today, the Tribute 2 Copper Edition makes its debut, and it’s a gorgeous watch with a beautifully detailed dial and mainplate. Métiers d’Art are a popular trend, and this watch perfectly infuses them. Handcrafted dials […] Visit Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition to read the full article.

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale SJX Watches
Seiko Nov 25, 2024

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale

A thematic sale of watches related to Japan, Toki just concluded at Phillips in Hong Kong over the weekend, notching up HK$61.8 million with fees, equivalent to US$7.95 million. Comprised of watches sold in Japan or made for the country, the catalogue included familiar names like Seiko and Casio, but also independent watchmakers like Masahiro Kikuno, along with a host of limited editions by Swiss brands for the Japanese market. A novel concept given the dominance of Swiss brands in watch auctions, both in terms of value and volume, Toki surprised on the upside. The 115-lot auction included lots of surprising and notable results, like HK$1.14 million (about US$147,000) for the Casio G-Shock Dream Project, double the original retail price. Thomas Perazzi at the rostrum. Image – Phillips Toki and the subsequent main sale showed the momentum established during the Geneva auctions two weeks ago carried on into Hong Kong. The strength of the sale is also credit to the Phillips watch department in Asia led by Thomas Perazzi, which conceived Toki a year ago with the help of Tokyo-based consultants for Phillips, Kaz Fujimoto and Genki Sakamoto. The unusual theme was realised well with a carefully curated catalogue. Many of the watches in Toki were simply unavailable anywhere else. With only 35 made and all sold via a lottery in 2020, where else can one find a solid-gold G-Shock? This reflected in the diverse nature of the bidders. Most bids in the sale came from phone bidders an...

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial Fratello
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Nov 10, 2024

Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial

In April 2024, Zenith introduced the Defy Extreme Diver, a bold and modern dive watch. The brand is most famous for its chronographs, so a new diver is big news. The initial release brought a pair of black- and blue-dialed watches. Today, an icy silver version joins the lineup as a serial-production model. This year’s […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Fratello
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Oct 29, 2024

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.

The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design Fratello
Seiko SKX173 Oct 24, 2024

The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design

Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch is a modern classic. Today, we’re looking at a different and, I’ll argue, better-looking version. The watch is known as the Seiko SKX173. Read on. Recently, I wrote about Seiko’s SKX007 dive watch. This was not a review, per se, but an assessment of the SKX007’s role in 2024. The article […] Visit The Seiko SKX173: A Lesser-Known Take On The SKX007 Dive Watch With A Neo-Vintage Dial Design to read the full article.

Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase Fratello
Oris Watch Oct 13, 2024

Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase

The allure of searching vintage and antique shops is strong for me. There is something about the appreciation for things from the past that resonates. Recently, on a trip to one such shop, I discovered a vintage Oris watch in an old suitcase. I saw it glistening inside the morass of trinkets and discarded objects […] Visit Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase to read the full article.