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Time+Tide
It is often considered the most prolific complication in the watch world, and it has a long, complex, story to tell.The post On your marks, get set, go: the history of the chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
One of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: chronograph vs. chronometer. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. This is, again, the simplest way to look at it. But there’s a bit more to both chronometers and chronographs that a knowledge-hungry watch enthusiast might want to digest - including the fact that the terms are not interchangeable but also not mutually exclusive. [toc-section heading="Chronometers Defined"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronome...
WatchAdvice
Rado has recently released the new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in black ceramic, and we wanted to test the latest iteration from the brand. What We Love The combination of matte and polished ceramic looks good The colourway is highly versatile The dial & bezel are highly legible during both day and nighttime thanks to the Super-LumiNova What We Don’t The bracelet clasp design is a little fiddly to open and close The screw-down pushers are not the easiest to operate when on the wrist It is a thick watch and won’t suit smaller wrists Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 7.5/10 As a watch enthusiast, there’s plenty of pieces out there to choose from. From low-end entry-level models to super high-end grand complications, the range is vast. But if you’re looking for a mid-level piece as a daily wearer, then the Captain Cook has always been the go-to model from Rado. As their tagline suggests, they are the Master of Materials when it comes to High-Tech ceramic, and as a material, ceramic is both versatile and robust. So much so that I bought my wife an all-white High-Tech Ceramic Rado True Thinline about 10 years ago, and it looks the same as the day I walked out of Wallace Bishop in Brisbane. The last Rado I personally reviewed was over 2 years ago now – the Bronze Captain Cook Chronograph which you can read about here, and I was quietly impressed with the watch and the value for money at the ...
Monochrome
More a complication than a category or style of watch per se, the chronograph still ranks high in brands’ portfolios. As the end of the year is fast approaching, it’s time for the MONOCHROME team to elect its favourite watches of 2025, and that includes the best chronographs we’ve seen over the year. Plenty of […]
Fratello
ISOfrane straps have a special place in diving history. As a 1960s creation, the original model became a fixture for divers due to its flexibility, durability, and comfort. Today, modern versions of the straps are used both for their original purpose and as everyday accompaniments. Until now, though, only one design was available. Today, we […] Visit Hands-On: The New ISOfrane VS 1969 Straps to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has a well known and understood design language that is expansive in nature. It’s a style that feels just as at home on a humble skin diver as it does in the context of a field watch or chronograph. It always feels comfortable, but never derivative. Like a perfectly well worn-in pair of jeans that you keep coming back to. The Speedtimer name is a perfect example of this originality since it was first used by the brand in 1969, and it largely remains so today. The modern Speedtimer SSC813 within the Prospex collection is not entirely reliant on that history, rather, it presents a contemporary vision of a Seiko chronograph at its most accessible. [toc-section heading="Seiko And Chronographs"] Seiko plays an important role in the history of the chronograph as we experience it today. The Japanese brand’s mechanical timers of the mid ‘60s showed off a modern vision for a highly focused design that would open the door for a new generation of watches. These designs did not use a host of subdials, but rather a single timing hand and a single pusher. This is a focus that would be retained until 1969, when Seiko introduced the reference 6139, one of three automatic chronographs to be revealed that year that would shape the genre for the coming decades. Unlike the other two, the Seiko used just a single subdial which would totalize up to 30 minutes. The 6139 would have a cultural impact just as big as its horological impact, appearing in films and, in the case of the so...
Fratello
What do you do when you have a good thing going? You double down, of course! Formex spent years developing a ceramic Essence with best-in-class finishing and a first-ever ceramic micro-adjustable clasp. The Swiss brand fitted it with a skeletonized dial for its debut earlier this year. And then, Formex doubled down indeed. This September, […] Visit Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s only been a couple of weeks since Thomas covered the AVI-8 CVRT 3775A Automatic. Now, the young brand specializing in military-themed aviation watches is releasing its next series of timepieces. With the new Flyboy Eagle Squadron Automatic Bronze 85th Limited Edition, AVI-8 pays tribute to the brave American pilots who volunteered to fly alongside […] Visit Hands-On With The AVI-8 Flyboy Eagle Squadron Automatic Bronze 85th Limited Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
A young French brand with a very clear mission, Depancel aims to produce mechanical watches inspired by classic motoring. Even the name is a contraction of Delage, Panhard and Facel Vega, three storied French carmakers. That automotive spirit runs straight through the Allure collection, the brand’s chronograph line, “imagined for gentleman drivers”. The latest model, […]
Fratello
Sometimes, all you need to know is right there in the name. AVI-8, pronounced “Aviate,” leaves little question about the brand’s mission and inspiration. You might know the company for its highly affordable and highly specced pilot’s watches inspired by specific combat airplanes, such as the Spitfire, Hawker Hurricane, or Bell X1. Today, though, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Brand-New AVI-8 CVRT 3775A Automatic to read the full article.
Fratello
Over the past few years, we have seen a ton of fun watches with famous comic characters, from the return of Disney characters on several Gérald Genta watches to famous DC characters on the dial of Audemars Piguet’s much-praised Royal Oak Concept models. Of course, there are also the famous Omega Speedmaster Snoopy models. However, […] Visit Hands-On With The Spinnaker Challenger Automatic Popeye Anchor Arms Limited Edition to read the full article.
Somewhere, in a drawer lined with yellowed graph paper and sharpened No. 2 pencils, there’s a circular slide rule waiting to be understood. It belonged to a grandfather who spent his life chasing the elegance of equations-someone who could balance a checkbook in his head and chart a rocket’s trajectory on a napkin. For the person who inherited that drawer-and the curiosity that came with it-the new Xeric Omnigraph Automatic feels less like a watch and more like a reunion. Before computers, before calculators, before “Hey Siri, what’s 38 times 72?”-there was the circular slide rule. It wasn’t just a tool; it was a visualization of thought, an instrument for those who found beauty in precision. Xeric’s Omnigraph takes that analog intelligence and transforms it into a timepiece where mathematics itself becomes the design language. The post A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Lebois & Co. was founded in 1934, and since its revival a decade ago, the independent has been steadily building a catalogue that treats vintage codes with the utmost care. The turning point was the Heritage Chronograph, a compact, community-shaped bi-compax that gave the brand a clear design language: classical proportions, crisp typography, and useful […]
Fratello
If you are a fan of interesting microbrands, you have heard of Peren. We have covered several of the brand’s watches. The minimalist style of the Regia and Nero divers is recognizable and serves as an adaptable canvas to experiment with different looks. However, for his next release, founder Andy Bica decided to leave the […] Visit Introducing: The Minimalist Peren One Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Impulsion by Louis Moinet is already one of the more extroverted ways to pair a chronograph and a tourbillon. For Dubai Watch Week 2025, the brand dials up the theatre with a sharp new act: the Impulsion Titanium Green, a limited edition that blends carbon, smoked sapphire and green-and-red colourway with the same openworked […]
Fratello
The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” honors the Métiers d’Art of Swiss watchmaking with its Grand Feu enamel dial - and what a dial it is! As 2025 marks the brand’s 90th anniversary, this is undoubtedly a celebratory watch. If you want it, you pay a little up front, the brand starts […] Visit Introducing: The Lebois & Co Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” - A Souscription Watch With A Grand Feu Enamel Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Born from the French Ministry of Defence’s Type 20 brief in the mid-1950s, the Type 20 Chronograph watches featured a black dial, a flyback (retour en vol) function, a rotating bezel, and pilot-proof robustness. Alongside fellow suppliers like Breguet, Mathey-Tissot, and Auricoste, Airain’s Type 20 quickly became one of the most recognisable field chronographs. A […]
Time+Tide
This flyback chronograph dive watch's panda dial was inspired by the optical effect that cinema screens used to use for maxmium legibility.The post Glashütte Original takes unexpected inspiration from the world of cinema with the SeaQ Chronograph “Silver Screen” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We’ve had a couple of battles between dressy watches in the previous weeks, so we thought it would be good to return to our more regular program of proper sports watches. This week, Omega launched its updated Dark Side of the Moon collection, which we couldn’t […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium Vs. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon “Black/Black” to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The first major mechanical complication in Mido's unexpectedly popular Multifort TV collection is a bold yet rational choice.The post Prime time: Mido changes the channel with the Multifort TV Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Swiss watch manufacturer Ebel has long balanced beauty and function, from the 1911’s hexagonal case with exposed screws, first seen in 1986, to today’s clean, contemporary executions. The new 1911 Chronograph Ice Blue moves that signature language in a fresher, sport-forward direction. With this new colourway for the rather iconic chrograph, making us long for […]
Fratello
Spinnaker is back to haunt you. Once again, the Fleuss dive watch - not a watch named after a character from the movie Ghostbusters, mind you, but after influential diver and dive engineer Henry Albert Fleuss - is the medium that makes ghosts appear. The Spinnaker Fleuss Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ 2025 Edition is available in two […] Visit I Ain’t Afraid Of No Ghost! Introducing The Spinnaker Fleuss Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ 2025 Edition In Two Sizes to read the full article.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing plenty of novelties, and they’re not watches. The brand from Le Brassus is also presenting new movements. The latest perpetual calendars now feature an ingenious crown, for instance, but the biggest news of the year is undoubtedly the launch of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding […] Visit Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand’s R&D; skunkworks. We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents – why not? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.
Fratello
Some watches come with great stories. The new Venezianico Bucintoro 1976 is one of those. It is the second model in the brand’s Legacy of Time series. So, what is the story? If you’re over 40, you’re probably familiar with the Concorde. British Airways and Air France used the supersonic jet to fly from Paris […] Visit Venezianico Honors The Legendary Concorde With The New Bucintoro 1976 Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Longines has tightened the Spirit's design language and adjusted dimensions while leaning on modern movement tech and COSC-certification.The post Longines expands the Spirit pillar with a time‑only Pilot and a flyback chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The chronograph is undoubtedly one of the most, if not the most, popular complications among watch enthusiasts. However, few people realise that this mechanism is one of the most complex in watchmaking. Most chronographs operate on the same fundamental principles. However, with the Royal Oak Jumbo Chronograph RD#5, Audemars Piguet dares to challenge conventions that […]
Time+Tide
The new Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. merges a cheeky robot display with one of watchmaking's most complicated mechanisms.The post The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. brings a playful robot animation to a means-business split-seconds chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Seiko Sportsmatic SilverWave 69799 Starting off this week with a killer vintage Seiko, and one you don’t see for sale often. This 1964 Sportsmatic SilverWave is just really cool. The SilverWave is one of Seiko’s earliest divers, with a water resistance rating of 30 meters and an internal rotating countdown bezel. The 38mm steel case is a great size, and it’s in good shape. The original crown is at 4 o’clock, and when it’s in the “in” position, you can turn it to rotate the inner bezel. The silver dial is nice, showing a touch of aging as is the bezel. The snap-on caseback still shows the Seiko wave log and the serial number which dates it to April 1964. The automatic movement is clean and it runs well per the seller. This comes on a Seiko beads of rice bracelet which isn’t original, but looks great. Nice example of a hard to find early Seiko diver! View auction here Vintage Bulova Chronograph Here’s a real beauty, a vintage Bulova chronograph that features a stunning slate blue dial with dual silver subdials. The 37mm squarish case looks good, still exhibiting the original brushed finish on the top. The dial looks mint, with nice steel stick markers and hands. Ther...
SJX Watches
Components-specialist-turned-watch brand Fleury Manufacture created its own chronograph calibre inspired by the famous Lemania cal. 2310, which debuts in the FXR-4 Chronograph. Given Fleury’s origins as a supplier of parts, the calibre is built almost entirely by Fleury, and to a high standard. And the FXR-4 stands out for another reason: while independent watchmaking is rarely the value proposition it once was, the FXR-4 is priced well. The FM04 movement Initial Thoughts Self-developed chronographs are a risky proposition for high-end independents. Established brands offer fierce competition, and developing a new chronograph calibre is arguably a thankless task today since enthusiasts remain fixated on highly-decorated three handers that offer the watchmaker a greater return on a smaller investment. The FM04 movement inside scores well in terms of construction and finishing. The architecture is more refined than most other Lemania-esque chronographs, with the chronograph driving wheel integrated into the going train. And the finishing, a mix of machine and hand finishing, has enough of the latter to be considered high end; the black-polished clutch lever is especially outstanding. The design of the exterior doesn’t score quite as well, which is not surprising given Fleury’s background as a parts supplier. The date isn’t to my preference – and the date pusher looks strangely large – it will be a meaningful value-add to others. Vacheron Constantin’s Lemania-ba...
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