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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Sinn Introduces the 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Nov 18, 2020

Sinn Introduces the 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC

Alongside the unusual R500 “bullhead” chronograph, Sinn’s new debuts for the year include a pair of entry-level “tool” watches. The Series 105 is comprised of two models – 105 St Sa and 105 St Sa UTC – that are reminiscent of classic pilot’s watches, but in a clean, modern style with a dial populated by geometric shapes. Both are dual time zone watches, but executed differently. The 105 St Sa UTC is similar to a traditional GMT watch, having an additional 24-hour hand as well as a 24-hour rotating bezel. More unusual is the base model 105 St Sa, which has a bezel with two separate scales – 12-hour and 60-minute markings – that allows for measuring short elapsed times as well as tracking a second time zone. 105 St Sa (left) and 105 St Sa UTC Initial thoughts Starting at €1,350 for the base model, and rising to €1,790 for the UTC on a steel bracelet, the 105 is a value buy that manages to differentiate itself from the numerous “tool” watches in the same price segment. It has roots in Sinn’s Pilot Watch 104 – the brand’s long-standing, entry-level aviator’s watch – but the 105 is different enough to make it stand out. To start with, the dial design is simple but smart. The base model, for instance, manages to incorporate a day and date display in a symmetrical manner, preserving both legibility and balance. At the same time, the colours are unusual, especially the white and orange combination that is just as functional but avoids the all...

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Offers You The Opportunity To Learn More About Fine Watchmaking And Have Fun At The Same Time Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Offers You Nov 18, 2020

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atelier d’Antoine Offers You The Opportunity To Learn More About Fine Watchmaking And Have Fun At The Same Time

One of the advantages of writing about watches is visiting the brands. And while we do our best to share these treasured experiences with you as best as we can, nothing can replace the pleasure and joy of experiencing things for yourself. Happily, Jaeger-LeCoultre is now offering Atelier d’Antoine masterclasses, manufacture visits, and discovery workshops not only to journalists but also to watch aficionados. Here's how you can get in on the fun!

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Nov 18, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

The tourbillon regulator first found its way into the Royal Oak in 1997, with what was then a novel automatic movement with a hammer winding mechanism. Audemars Piguet has just announced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 41 mm, a nod to the 1997 original, but with a twist – it’s the first Royal Oak equipped with a flying tourbillon. Launching in three variants, the new model is superficially similar to the existing Royal Oak tourbillon – it is very much the octagonal watch – but it is notably different, both in aesthetics and mechanics. From left to right: pink gold, steel, and titanium Immediately, the titanium version stands out, not only because the metal is used sparingly by the brand, but also because the dial has a grained finish instead of the conventional tapisserie guilloche. And it is powered by the newish cal. 2950, a self-winding movement, no doubt a subtle reference to AP’s status as a pioneering maker of wristwatch tourbillons – the brand introduced the first ever automatic tourbillon wristwatch in 1986. The Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in titanium Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is an appealing watch in most guises – usually the simpler the better – not just for its design but also the complex and sophisticated case finish. And the tourbillon in titanium is particularly distinctive for its clean, modern dial that goes well with the industrial-chic style of the case design. Importantly, this is not a mere facelift. It’...

On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers Quill & Pad
Nov 17, 2020

On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers

Of all the winners from the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this was the one that really made Dr. Rebecca Struthers smile! Among all the glamour of the watch industry, it’s easy to forget the importance of education; here she reminds us why that – and Antoine Simonin – are important to the wellbeing of our ticking microcosm.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

Unveiled just earlier this year, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is compelling inside and out – an uncommon, cushion-shaped “bullhead” case with an integrated bracelet, containing the ingenious, well-regarded Agenhor AgenGraphe movement. A limited run of just 100 watches, the launch-edition Streamliner only recently clinched the Chronograph Watch Prize at this year’s Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve, making it the perfect time to launch of the regular-production variant, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue. Initial thoughts Original and appealing in its design, the Streamliner was well-received commercially and critically, making the regular-production version inevitable. Almost identical to the original version, the new version differs only in its dial, which is a metallic blue with a fashionable smoked finish. Notably, the blue dial has a radial, brushed finish, instead of the vertical, linear brushing of the launch edition. While the blue dial is quintessential Moser in colour and style, it isn’t as unique as the pale grey dial on the launch edition – which is a good thing, as it helps differentiate the limited-edition original. That said, the blue dial is attractive – and more striking – with the graduated, fume finish giving it more depth than the typical integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Streamliner chronograph has a price tag of US$43,900 – a sizeable number that’s justifiable because the watch stands out f...

WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag Time+Tide
Tudor Oyster Prince has Nov 17, 2020

WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag

To the average punter, casual enthusiast or proper aficionado, there is one brand that manages to muscle itself into just about every current conversation about watches. And the king rightly wears the crown.  But there’s a problem for many, should they intend to deepen their own relationship with Rolex. Namely, the inflated prices that we … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Insight: High-Tech LIGA Within the Rolex Daytona Cal. 4130 SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Cal 4130 In-house Nov 17, 2020

Insight: High-Tech LIGA Within the Rolex Daytona Cal. 4130

In-house movements are common in modern watchmaking, and practically the norm at the biggest brands. But new movements are usually developed to replace existing calibres, making 21st century movements with lifespans of decades fairly uncommon. Such mechanical longevity, on the other hand, is only possible with consistently implementing incremental but significant technical upgrades. Perhaps more than others, Rolex has perfected the art of carefully engineered movements that remain in production for many, many years thanks to incremental upgrades. The sheer scale of Rolex as a manufacture doubtlessly plays a big role in making that possible. Producing close to a million watches a year, according to estimates by banks Vontobel and Morgan Stanley – and owning almost all of its distribution and after-sales service network – Rolex certainly possesses tremendous data on the performance of its movements over prolonged, real-world use. Such information would be invaluable boosting the performance of its movements as well as extending the longevity of the calibre designs. The Cosmograph calibre One such long-lived movement is the cal. 4130 that debuted inside the Cosmograph Daytona in 2000. Over its two decade production run, the chronograph calibre – featuring both a column wheel and vertical clutch – has undergone four key technical updates according to Rolex, all of which are found in the cal. 4130s produced today. [And any Daytona with earlier versions of the cal. 41...

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Nov 15, 2020

Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillon

Chopard recently unveiled the latest iteration of its Mille Miglia chronograph, a long-established model with conventional looks lightly inspired by classic cars. But it also unveiled the Mille Miglia Lab One Tourbillion, which is also automobile-inspired but instead by modern-day, hybrid hypercars. Drastically different and unabashedly contemporary, the Lab One is large, lightweight, and boasts a technically-impressive form movement with two notable features, a vertical hacking mechanism for the tourbillon as well as a back-winder crown. Initial thoughts While Chopard’s catalogue includes numerous classical, complicated watches that are well done – basically the entire L.U.C line – few of them possess strong design and rarely jump out at you. The Lab One is the opposite: unusual and original, and appealing – but polarising in terms of design. This not Chopard’s first foray in high-end, complicated sports watches, though it has not had much success in a segment dominated by brands like Richard Mille and Hublot. While its peers have refined their aesthetic into a recognisable style, Chopard is not well versed at such design. The watch is replete with car-inspired elements, but incorporated with varying degrees of coherence. It does, however, excel at watchmaking. Compared with the competition, the Lab One wins hands down in terms of technical achievement relative to price. Impressively kitted out with a hacking tourbillion, the Lab One is priced at $129,000,...

3 watches you can get from the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now Nov 15, 2020

3 watches you can get from the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now

The lockdown in Melbourne has made us miss a lot of things. An avocado-heavy brunch with friends. A cocktail at Eau-de-Vie. And also the opening of the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique. You heard me correctly, Jaeger-LeCoultre has a new home in Melbourne at the Paris end of Collins Street, right next to its Richemont … ContinuedThe post 3 watches you can get from the brand new Jaeger-LeCoultre Melbourne boutique right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet Time+Tide
Bausele Nov 15, 2020

Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet

Sydney-based watch brand Bausele has been confirmed to produce two watches with the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) to mark their centenary. The RAAF’s 100th anniversary will be marked by two special watches that contain parts of RAAF aircraft. The last time the RAAF actually commissioned a watch was in the 1940s, when they commissioned … ContinuedThe post Aussie brand Bausele is the official watchmaker of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary watch, and it’s their best collection yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-Graph Nov 14, 2020

#Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens

Hypebeast recently dropped the orange-flavoured candy of the Nike Air Force 1 ’07 LV8 Total Orange, a searchlight-bright version of the iconic trainer. As if the zesty orange wasn’t enough, they have teamed up with 3M for the metallic silver highlights, in an unashamed flash of reflections from the tiniest sliver of sunlight. This is … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: We pair Nike’s latest drop with the DOXA SUB 200 C-Graph, and magic happens appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Explorer 39mm Review WatchAdvice
Rolex Explorer 39mm Review Rolex Nov 14, 2020

The Rolex Explorer 39mm Review

Rolex is a brand filled with iconic model lines, from the famed Submariner to the beguiling Daytona. The brand has managed to churn out generations of their core models with only the slightest misstep here and there. One of the most recent miscalculations came out of the Explorer range. A line famous for scaling Mount Everest strapped to the wrist of the courageous Sir Edmond Hillary, braving some of the harshest conditions found on Planet Earth, the Explorer proving to be a reliable companion for such a daring endeavour. So, when it came time for Rolex to modernise the piece, and growing to its current 39mm design, it was somewhat bewildering that the Swiss giant forgot to also scale up the hands of the watch.  Fear not however, never one to sit on a mistake for long, Rolex released the mark 2 spec of the newer, larger Explorer, this is the watch featured in this hands-on review. Few dials are as iconic and recognisable as the legendary Explorer 3, 6, 9 configuration. The watch being balanced, and imperfectly asymmetrical all at once, never have I looked down at the dial of the Explorer reference 214270 and thought it looked anything but ideal.  At 39mm the increase in case diameter has given the dial room to breathe, the prominent Arabic numerals so synonymous with the Explorer are allowed to stand proud, not interfered with or cramped as they may feel on a lesser case size. There is a brilliance to how the dial is proportioned here, the blackness of the dial creates a...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Qatar Watch Club SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Nov 14, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak X Qatar Watch Club

Created for a group of watch enthusiasts in Gulf nation, the Freak X Qatar Watch Club is a variant of the brand’s well-priced, entry-level Freak. Conceived by Ulysse Nardin, its local retailer Ali Bin Ali, and members of the club, the new Freak X is a limited edition of just 10 watches. It’s the third timepiece made for Qatar Watch Club (QWC), following on last year’s Tudor Pelagos. Dressed almost entirely in black, the QWC edition has its hour markers in dark green, a colour historically associated with the Middle East. Initial thoughts Essentially a simpler version of the original Freak, the Freak X manages to retain a good deal of the features that made the original unique, while dialling back on the complexity to make it more affordable. A value proposition in all its iterations, the Freak X remains equally compelling as the QWC edition, although it is only available to members of QWC. The affordable Freak Highly regarded by the club’s members, the Freak X an unsurprising choice for QWC’s third collaboration. “Ulysse Nardin creations always fascinated us since the beginning,” says Jassim Al Sayed, the chairman of QWC, “We’re honoured to be able to collaborate with the brand for a very special edition of Freak X.” Clad in a restrained colour palette, Freak X QWC has a titanium case coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC), with dark green hour markers as well as a subtle green ring on the wheel that drives the time-display carrousel. The Freak...

Jaquet Droz Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Nov 14, 2020

Jaquet Droz Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) – Reprise

Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker Peter Speake highlights here.

INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Sa G is a totally new look for Sinn, and we can get around it Time+Tide
Sinn 103 Sa G Nov 13, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Sa G is a totally new look for Sinn, and we can get around it

This week, in an unusual move from the obsessive tool laboratory of Sinn Spezialuhren (yes, Special Watches - only tools and instruments may apply), comes a glittery fresh take on the social media and forum hive-mind favourite, the 41mm Sinn 103 pilot’s chronograph. In the Sinn 103 Sa G version they have taken what is a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Sa G is a totally new look for Sinn, and we can get around it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials Time+Tide
Hublot watches Nov 13, 2020

Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials

Over the last few years we’ve seen lots of brands turn to their archives as inspiration for new watches. Heritage is very, very popular. But what if you don’t have a century or more of archives to dig through in search of exciting designs? What if your brand was only founded in 1980? For Hublot, … ContinuedThe post Our picks of the best Hublot watches of 2020, including some Black Magic, beautiful bracelets and modish millennials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… Time+Tide
Nov 13, 2020

We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing…

The 20th annual GPHG was streamed and broadcast live, with digital spectators tuning in around the world to see who would win what some refer to as “the Oscars” of watchmaking. Each year, an academy of industry experts, journalists and influencers is assembled to determine the nominees for these prestigious awards – with 30 of … ContinuedThe post We watched every minute of the GPHG 2020 so you don’t have to. And you owe us a beer, it wasn’t amazing… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Complete List Of Winners At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Takes The Aiguille d’Or And Lots Of Surprises (To Say The Least) Quill & Pad
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Takes Nov 13, 2020

Complete List Of Winners At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Takes The Aiguille d’Or And Lots Of Surprises (To Say The Least)

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept took the Aiguille d’Or grand prize at the 2020 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, where there were many surprises and many well earned awards. Check out the complete list of laureates here and let us know what you think about the night's winners and losers.