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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 25, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor hit it out of the park at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the surprising pair of precious-metal Fifty Eights (in 18k gold as well as sterling silver), but it’s clear the brand is not done with the year yet. Tudor has just taken the covers off the Black Bay Ceramic. The new 41 mm diver is the brand’s first regular-production dive watch with a ceramic case, but more significant is the fact that this is Tudor’s first watch to obtain METAS certification, making it a Master Chronometer. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Ceramic is a surprise. Tudor hinted at a new launch recently, but given it just announced a partnership with French Navy, or Marine Nationale, I was expecting an “MN” dive watch with blue dial. That said, it was inevitable a ceramic dive watch was in the pipeline after. For one, the brand already had a ceramic case chronograph in the catalogue with the usually overlooked the Fastrider Black Shield. And more importantly, the unique Black Bay Ceramic One – essentially the forerunner of the Black Bay Ceramic – sold for CHF350,000 at charity auction Only Watch 2019. The Black Bay Ceramic One from 2019 The Black Bay Ceramic While inevitable, the Black Bay Ceramic is still very much welcome. Its aesthetic is a good one, managing to feel contemporary despite the all-black aesthetic having had its heyday about decade ago. I would have hoped for a 39 mm Fifty-Eight case, instead of the 41 mm that it is, but its dark colours will make the case appear sma...

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In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred May 25, 2021

In-Depth: Recreating the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 One Hundred Years Later

As one of Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive timepieces marks its 100th anniversary, the watchmaker rolled out a handful of jubilee models during Watches & Wonders 2021 for the occasion, most notably the extremely good looking American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. But Vacheron Constantin had something else up its sleeve for the 1921’s century – something really special – a near-exact recreation of the vintage original from 1921. Christened the American 1921 Pièce Unique, the watch is a one-off created as a joint project by the brand’s Restoration Workshop and Heritage Department, overseen by Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni, whose long tenure at Vacheron Constantin means he is practically the brand’s institutional memory. The watch is more than just a visual replica – an identical case and movement is a given – but even the most minor of details have been reproduced faithfully, right down to the gold alloy of the case and period-correct vintage parts from its archives. Initial thoughts While the modern-day American 1921 is a fan-favourite, it necessarily omits some of the finer details of the vintage original, in order to cater to current tastes as well as production methods. As such, even the most-delicious Collection Excellence Platine edition can be critiqued, for the mismatch in hand colours or the seemingly misaligned seconds register. In contrast, the recreation is satisfyingly spot on, which give it an attractive, bona fi...

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Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin May 24, 2021

Book Review: Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul

Konstantin Chaykin: Haute Horlogerie, With Russian Soul. By Alexey Kutkovoy. Chaykin.ru; €230 Just glancing at Konstantin Chaykin’s repertoire tells you that there must be many stories behind his watches and clocks – they are markedly out of the ordinary. To tell some of those stories behind the timepieces – and his own story – Konstantin recruited renowned Russian watch journalist Alexey Kutkovoy in 2019. Despite Konstantin being a perfectionist, Mr Kutkovoy had journalistic freedom. “I was not bound by his control, so I had the privilege to compose my own independent vision with some nice subjects discovered, and I’m happy he left that untouched,” mentions Mr Kutkovoy. The Joker Selfie made for charity auction Only Watch 2019 His life and work The result is Konstantin Chaykin, a wide-ranging book that’s both an overview of Konstantin’s first 17 years of watchmaking as well as the myriad tales about his watches and clocks. Konstantin Chaykin is 384 well-filled pages, laid out in an unusual design that befits the individualism found in his watches. Originally published in Russian, the book is now available in English in a limited edition of 1,000 copies. Mr Kutkovoy decided to present Konstantin’s story in two separate threads – a timeline and an evolution of Konstantin’s clock and watch inventions – that presents a detailed history in a most accessible way. The opened cover of Konstantin Chaykin The first section is a chronological narrative, ...

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Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal Time+Tide
May 24, 2021

Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal

It started, like so many admirable ideas, in a pub garden over a few pints on a sunny day. Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the Managing Director of the British watch brand Fears, found himself chatting about the effects of COVID on unemployment and how there were suddenly a growing number of people looking for work. “I started … ContinuedThe post Got a big job interview? Meet the brand loaning people free watches to help them to seal the deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial Time+Tide
Boldr already making waves Keaton’s May 23, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial

Keaton Time Co. is another new brand from Singapore, that’s fast becoming a veritable hotbed of horological innovation with the likes of Zelos and BOLDR already making waves. Keaton’s debut watch Keris is unlike anything I’ve seen in a long time. You can forget about slim vintage, forget about creamy lume, hell, forget about the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Keris from Keaton Time Co. is a futuristic diver with a hypnotic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre heats up the green dial wagon with the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre heats up May 22, 2021

Jaeger-LeCoultre heats up the green dial wagon with the new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Green

Possibly the most iconic design created by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Reverso was first created in 1931. It was birthed from a practical need by British officers, to have a wristwatch that could survive the harrowing effects of a game of polo. The latest iteration in 2021, the 90th anniversary of the Reverso, comes in a green dial, set to the simple sub-seconds time only wrist watch.

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INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution Time+Tide
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T May 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution

Bold proclamation from the outset. If this watch had been launched during Watches & Wonders this year it would have been my pick of the fair. But let’s take a step back. In 2018, our friends at Revolution made a stellar limited-edition collaboration with Chopard L.U.C: the L.U.C 1860 x The Rake x Revolution. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not May 20, 2021

Highlights: The Interesting and Perhaps Overlooked at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

With the Geneva watch auctions recently concluded, the action moves to Hong Kong where Phillips is presenting a large, 312-lot catalogue over two days and three sessions. Headlined by a pair of Patek Philippe ref. 2499s with certificates – first and third series specifically – the Phillips sale encompasses several lots that will delight collectors looking for intriguing timepieces that usually go under the radar – most of which are also value buys. They include a seemingly ordinary Panerai with a brilliant Minerva movement, a round Audemars Piguet minute repeater that’s not a Code 11.59, and the electric Cartier Tank Folle that is as left-field as they come. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XII takes place on June 5 (lots 801-852) and June 6 over two sessions (lots 853-1112). The full catalogue, along with registration for the auction, is available online. Lot 874 – Panerai Radiomir PAM 322 “Minerva” With little to distinguish it, the PAM 322 looks like any other Radiomir at a glance. Released in 2008 in a limited edition of 150 pieces, the PAM 322 is quintessential Panerai in style: a 47 mm titanium case, tobacco dial, and gilt hands. But turn it over and it is instantly recognisable as special. The PAM 322 is powered by the cal. OPXXVII, which is actually based on the Minerva cal. 16-15/16-17, one of the calibres destined for Montblanc’s top-of-the-line watches, then known as the Villeret 1858 collection (and now found in various 1858 and Heritage mode...

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What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon Time+Tide
Patek Philippe releases May 19, 2021

What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon

Patek Philippe have been in the headlines a lot already this year. Firstly for the announcement that the Nautilus ref. 5711 was to be discontinued, and again when the collector community was shocked at proposed changes to the Archival Extracts program. All this before they even released a new watch. When they did release their … ContinuedThe post What were the best (non-Nautilus) Patek Philippe releases of 2021? We asked Patek expert John Reardon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium Launched May 19, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Avigation BigEye Titanium

Launched just earlier in the year, the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium is a follow up to the original, which was historically faithful in terms of the design. The new titanium version, however, is more compelling. The titanium BigEye retains the same design, but gets a new look with the blue dial and titanium case. Both substantially change its look and feel for the better, while retaining the usual affordability of Longines’ many remakes. Initial thoughts The new Avigation BigEye departs from the typical Longines formula for remakes, which to faithfully reproduce as far as possible, right down to the spotting on old dials. In contrast, the Avigation BigEye in titanium preserves the design of the remake, but renders the dial in a clearly modern texture and colour. And of course the case is titanium. Notably, the new Avigation BigEye, along with other recent remakes like the Legend Diver in bronze, appear to mark a shift in Longines’ strategy for its historically-inspired watches. Instead of concentrating merely on one-for-one replicas, Longines is making them more interesting with modern colours and materials. That’s a good thing, especially given the obvious fact that Longines’ designers have shown themselves to possess a good eye. They manage to tweak existing designs while preserving the spirit of the original, as demonstrated by the BigEye in titanium. The result is a lightweight, and good looking watch. It does have the shortcomings of the steel versio...

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A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier SJX Watches
Rolex World Service May 18, 2021

A Look Inside Rolex World Service and the Restoration Atelier

Synonymous with durability and consistency, Rolex is most famous for the water-resistant Oyster watch case. But as important are its movements engineered to optimise timekeeping and functionality, exemplified by innovations like Chronergy and LIGA chronograph wheels. At the same time, Rolex watches are built for longevity, with the brand guaranteeing the availability of parts and labour for every model for at least 35 years after its discontinuation. Crucial in ensuring that the parts and labour are applied correctly is Rolex World Service, the brand’s after-sales division. The typically secretive Swiss watchmaking giant recently peeled back the covers on Rolex World Service, allowing a peek into its processes with information and a series of photos. Rolex World Service Rolex World Service encompasses the brand’s global after-sales service network, which is primarily made up of Rolex subsidiaries but occasionally run by third-party distributors in certain markets. All service centres are meant to offer a uniformly standard of service, regardless of ownership. A variety of servicing options are on offer at Rolex – all relatively affordable – with the most common being the full service detailed below. As the name implies, a full service is comprehensive, including polishing and replacements of parts. It is catered for the average consumer who wants a watch looking fresh and new, rather than the enthusiast or collector who prefers originality. A full service start...

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Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM 11-03 May 18, 2021

Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills

Back in March, we covered the story of a horrific watch theft in Beverly Hills California where a Richard Mille robbery occurred leaving an undisclosed women wounded by a firearm. Shay Belhassen was targeted for his RM-11-03 Flyback Chronograph in rose gold, a watch worth $500,000, while dining with a female companion at celebrity hotspot … ContinuedThe post Three men apprehended for robbery of a Richard Mille RM 11-03 in Beverly Hills appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying May 17, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...

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VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand Time+Tide
Bausele OceanMoon IV May 15, 2021

VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand

There are only a few watch brands that call Australia home, but one of them is Bausele in Sydney whose timepieces take some inspiration from the land they were born in. The Bausele OceanMoon IV is the latest release in the collection of dive watches that have been in the brand’s catalogue for more than … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Bausele OceanMoon IV is an Australian-made diver built for the surf and the sand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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