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Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Dec 9, 2020

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe GMT

Having made its three years ago with the affordable, vintage-inspired HMS and Bicompax – like many other brands in the segment – Baltic soon expanded its catalogue to include a similarly retro dive watch (and just last week an edition for Dubai retailer Perpétuel). And now the dive watch gets  second time zone function with the launch of the Aquascaphe GMT. Introduced in three variants – with the most striking being the version with an orange and blue bezel – the Aquascaphe GMT is very much modelled on 1950s “big crown” dive watches, but with a sapphire-covered bezel and Swiss-made Soprod movement. Initial thoughts The Aquascaphe GMT continues to play to the strengths of Baltic, a French brand that manages good, vintage-inspired design in a a compact package, and at a modest price. Admittedly, such vintage-inspired watches are not particularly original, but they are have appeal, particularly since modern construction give them a practicality and robustness that the vintage originals lack. Credit goes to Baltic in giving the new GMT enough character to make it reasonably original. For instance, the 24-hour bezel is offered in interesting combinations of colours that are not the usual “Pepsi” or “Coke”, from a restrained grey and blue to a vibrant blue and orange. The rest of the GMT is similar to the original Aquascaphe dive watch, which means a handsome, compact case with good enough finishing for the price. But the GMT does diverge from the time-o...

NEWS: Hublot has perfect 2020 vision in their new e-warranty system Time+Tide
Hublot has perfect 2020 vision Dec 9, 2020

NEWS: Hublot has perfect 2020 vision in their new e-warranty system

Buying a pre-owned watch can be full of dangers. The watch might be fake, or not have all of the original parts, and it can be very hard to know all that - unless you have the original documentation of the watch. But even if these original papers have remained with the watch all these … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot has perfect 2020 vision in their new e-warranty system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters Revolution
Omega Speedmaster sit down Dec 8, 2020

Davidoff Brothers Assess the Temple of Speed Collection of Speedmasters

Roy & Sacha Davidoff, two individuals we love and consider to be some of the best minds in all things Omega Speedmaster, sit down with Wei Koh over Zoom to give us their two cents on all of the Speedmasters that make up the Temple of Speed collection. The Temple of Speed is Revolution’s complete collection of vintage and modern collectible OMEGA Speedmasters, now on permanent display at the Revolution Watch Bar, in Singapore.

LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2020

LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020

How many watches have you seen in the metal this year? My personal tally would surely be an all-time low. The COVID pandemic cancelled watch fairs while product viewings turned into digital affairs where white-gloved reps waved their timepieces at you over live video streams. There’s no real substitute for any of this, of course. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Luke’s 5 favourite articles of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache

We recently covered up-and-coming British manufacturer Zero West, and their Spitfire S4-P9427 aviation watch. But pilot’s watches are not the only horological ace up their sleeve, they also encapsulate great moments in British history on land and sea. Across all three lines, one common theme they share are distinctive cases and aesthetics that can only … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Zero West TT-58 gets revved up with Aston Martin’s panache appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Vintage Tudor Dive Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Tudor Dive Watches Dec 6, 2020

Exhibition: Vintage Tudor Dive Watches in Singapore

Tudor has just opened its latest boutique in Singapore, marking the occasion with an exhibition of vintage Tudor watches that chart the evolution of the brand’s dive watches since the 1950s – Six Decades of Tudor Divers’ Watches. Taking place from December 1-13 at the boutique in ION Orchard mall, the exhibition showcases pivotal historical models, with five watches from the Tudor’s museum on show, including the first-ever Tudor dive watch, the ref. 7922 as well as the “snowflake” issued to the divers of the French navy. Here’s a look at some of the highlights on show. The display of diver’s watches, and in the background a 1986 photo of Marine Nationale divers wearing the Tudor Submariner ref. 9401. Photo – Tudor The Submariner ref. 9401/0 “MN” issued to French navy divers The early days Established by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf with the intention providing more affordable watches that nonetheless had the same dependability as Rolex timepieces, Tudor has a rich history in water-resistant watches catered to professionals since the 1940s. Naturally, its most iconic sports watches have been dive watches, a lineage that started in 1954 with the self-winding Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922. The ref. 7922 The brand’s first dive watch, the ref. 7922 was launched a year after Rolex unveiled its first Submariner. As with all Tudor watches of the 20th century, much of the ref. 7922, save for the movement, was manufactured by Rolex, resulting in a watch ...

Steve McQueen, The Set Of ‘Le Mans,’ And A Surprising Cartier Tank – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox But when Nick Dec 5, 2020

Steve McQueen, The Set Of ‘Le Mans,’ And A Surprising Cartier Tank – Reprise

In the 1968 film 'The Thomas Crown Affair,' Steve McQueen played the title character, a millionaire businessman and avid sportsman involved in a cat-and-mouse game with an insurance claims investigator played by Faye Dunaway. McQueen chose two of his personal watches to wear in the film: an elegant Cartier Tank Cintrée and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox. But when Nick Gould looked further into this, he discovered that contrary to popular opinion McQueen also surprisingly owned a Tank.

7 crazy creative Seiko mods that don’t look like *ahem* Swiss steel sport watches Time+Tide
Seiko mods Dec 4, 2020

7 crazy creative Seiko mods that don’t look like *ahem* Swiss steel sport watches

If you aren’t across Seiko modding, that’s fair enough. While popular in some circles of the watch community, it certainly isn’t a mainstream practice, despite the level of fervour of its disciples. Earlier in the year we took a look at a few pretty interesting mods that had been made, including with painted dials, ceramic … ContinuedThe post 7 crazy creative Seiko mods that don’t look like *ahem* Swiss steel sport watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona Dec 4, 2020

In-Depth: Quantifying Performance and Trade-Offs in Movement Design Part II

Previously, in Part I of this series, we analysed and reviewed over 40 watch movements in terms of their potential chronometric performance – via the Horological Density Factor (HDF), which encompasses balance power and power reserve against the size of the movement – and debated the various trade-offs that had been made in order to achieve specific technical or aesthetic characteristics. Many readers then asked how more commonly known and accessible movements compare. To answer that we needed more data from the industry. Fortunately, Swiss movement makers Valjoux, Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon, Unitas, as well as their parent company Ebauches SA – now all part of ETA – once published beautifully comprehensive, detailed data sheets that included balance wheel inertia values. Armed with this data, we have been able to analyse and plot a further 25 movements alongside the previous group (with the disclaimer that it might not be fully up to date since the data sheets date from before the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s) to give a total of 68 to allow further investigation and review. The analysis Several popular movements have been added: the workhorse ETA 2824-1 and -2, the ubiquitous ETA Valjoux 7750 chronograph, the large diameter ETA Unitas 6497-1 and -2, and the ETA Peseux 7001. We also added, among others, the integrated chronograph cal. 4130 in the Rolex Daytona, and the modular chronograph versions of both the ETA 2892 (known as the ETA 2894) as well as...

VIDEO: The remarkable bang for buck of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase Time+Tide
Longines represents Dec 4, 2020

VIDEO: The remarkable bang for buck of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase

As a brand, Baume & Mercier presents a lot of benefits to its consumers. They have established themselves as a luxury watch manufacturer that aims to present some of the best builds for the best dollar. It would be fair to say that what Longines represents to the Swatch Group is what Baume & Mercier … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The remarkable bang for buck of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic COSC and Day Date Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary Deployant
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Dec 3, 2020

New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition with Editorial Commentary

The latest co-creation between TAG Heuer and Bamford Watch Department, the world’s ultimate hub for personalised luxury, is an exclusive Aquaracer timepiece equipped with the Calibre 5 Automatic movement and limited to 1,500 pieces. Press release information with editorial commentary in italics. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition Reference WAY208F.BF0638 is available now. Retail S$5,500Read More

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Dec 3, 2020

#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic

Bamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so … ContinuedThe post #Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Dec 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic

If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Bronze Dec 2, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field

The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Dec 1, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross’ signature BR wristwatch is essentially an aviation instrument in a square case, a style that works well as a military watch, explaining the iterations in camouflage or a fighter jet “heads-up display”. Sometimes associated with airborne troops, the skull is a recurring theme for the BR series, and one that has been continually refined over the last decade. The BR skull watch been redesigned both visually and mechanically, most notably with the proprietary, automaton-skull form movement of two years ago. With the new BR 01 Cyber Skull, the brand has taken a new aesthetic direction with a case and dial that is strikingly modern – polygonal, facetted, and very much like a sci-fi villain – making it vastly different from earlier skull watches that often seemed like nostalgic memento mori. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind Skynet and other technological villains, the Cyber Skull departs from the style of its predecessors that were characterised by an organic skull and elaborate case patterns, essentially a digitised version of the original BR Skull watch. Though simple, the design is done well, with a cohesive aesthetic with the case and dial echoing one another. The case is clearly derived from the original BR-01, but done with more facets and angles, with the polygonal surfaces continuing on the skull and crossbones. The BR 01 Laughing Skull White (left) and the BR 01 Cyber Skull Both the case and skull are made of black ceramic, while the movement ...

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) Time+Tide
Oris Dec 1, 2020

How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster)

Limited-edition collaborations in the watch industry are growing in popularity in 2020. We wanted to dig a bit deeper and get some behind-the-scenes insight on the sumptuous new hook-up between Fratello Watches and Oris. We can really only liken this combination to a glass of Bordeaux in a rich golden goblet for the wrist. I … ContinuedThe post How a DIY custom-job inspired Fratello’s detail-rich new collaboration with Oris (and why it’s not a Speedmaster) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Nov 30, 2020

Philippe Dufour Announces a Lottery for the Simplicity 20th Anniversary

Soon after the very first of the Simplicity 20th Anniversary sold for a record US$1.51 million, Philippe Dufour revealed that Lebanese watch collector and gem merchant Claude Sfeir will now be his exclusive retailer worldwide. Historically selling direct to clients but also represented by a handful of retailers around the world, most notably Shellman in Tokyo, Mr Dufour has now streamlined his distribution. Having known Mr Dufour for some 40 years, Mr Sfeir will handle the sale of the 20 Simplicity 20th Anniversary watches, as well as whatever timepieces Mr Dufour may debut in the future. With Mr Dufour himself keeping the last of the 21 anniversary timepieces, the first 10 examples will be sold direct to clients. While not revealing the specifics of the allocation process, Mr Sfeir noted during a phone conversation he hoped to that the watches would be evenly distributed around the world. The last 10 watches will be allocated in a lottery that will take place in Switzerland. It will be a formal event, with a huissier de justice – an officer of the court in Switzerland – serving as a witness. According to Mr Sfeir, the restructuring of the distribution will not only help Mr Dufour build a more commercially sustainable business, but also ensure the Dufour brand name can continue into the next generation. Mr Sfeir also let on that Mr Dufour’s daughter, Daniela, is almost done with her watchmaking education. She will join Mr Dufour at the bench at the end of 2020, o...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost Nov 30, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition

Launched in 2004 as an offshoot of the 2000 Series, the Aquaracer is the quintessential TAG Heuer dive watch. Solidly constructed and usually good value, the Aquaracer has pretty much stuck to the same aesthetic since it was launched. But it leaves staid looks behind with the Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition, a surprisingly cool diver designed by Bamford Watch Department (BWD), the watch customiser par excellence. Coming a week after the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ghost, the new Aquaracer is the second BWD collab in as many weeks. But the Aquaracer at the other end of the spectrum, both in design and price. The Laureato Ghost was entirely in white ceramic, while the Aquaracer is all matte titanium and more accessibly priced – although it is expensive for an Aquaracer. Initial thoughts BWD excels at applying new colours and textures to existing designs to create a whole new look. This has been achieved here, most notably with the sandblasted finish on the case and bracelet. Because the material is titanium – nearly all Aquaracers to date are steel – the result is a grey, granular surface that gives it the feel of no-nonsense “tool” watch. The dial features a notable degree of nuance for a “tool” watch, including a radial pattern and moulded Super-Luminova blocks for hour markers. A quirky detail that’s been found on other BWD watches also makes an appearance here: an alternating white-and-orange tip for the seconds hand, which brings to mind a clownfish o...

Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum: Commemorating The Life And Times Of Stephen Hawking Quill & Pad
Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum Nov 29, 2020

Bremont Hawking & Hawking Quantum: Commemorating The Life And Times Of Stephen Hawking

To commemorate Stephen Hawking, English watch company Bremont created a set of limited-edition watches honoring the late theoretical physicist: the Bremont Hawking and Hawking Quantum models. As the brand’s tenth limited edition, the Hawking watches pay homage to some of the greatest accomplishments of an Englishman in the last century. And like that titan of cosmology, there is more than meets the eye here.

Chillout TGIFridays: Shooting watches with large format cameras! Part 1. The preparation and the cameras. Deployant
Nov 27, 2020

Chillout TGIFridays: Shooting watches with large format cameras! Part 1. The preparation and the cameras.

In this Chillout TGIFridays episode, we begin our exploration into using large format cameras and lenses to do watch macro photography.  Large format cameras for watch photography Large format cameras have historically been the mainstay in professional work, where maximum image quality is of critical importance. These are large cameras, often reduced to the essenceRead More