Hodinkee
Introducing: The Chronoswiss Open Gear Tourbillon
Putting the bleue in l'heure bleue.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Announcements: Roger W. Smith OBE And Mike France Establish The Alliance Of British Watch And Clock Makers
Collectors and enthusiasts are welcome to join the new trade organization for British horology.
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos
Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos. Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos. Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches. Initial thoughts The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing. Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric. The Lancia Delta Futurista More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing e...
SJX Watches
Nomos Introduces the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife
Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers has worked with Nomos on a regular basis to create its own limited editions, with the latest being the Club Campus 38 #NomiesForLife. While earlier Ace editions incorporated local elements like the Dutch capital’s coat of arms and the work of Piet Mondrian, the new edition resulted from a collaboration with a Dutch Nomos enthusiast who also started a community on Instagram for like-minded collectors, @nomiesforlife. Named after the Instagram channel, the new edition is a more sombre iteration of the usually colourful Club Campus, done in high contrast black and white, accented with pale blue. Initial thoughts Ace Jewelers has plenty of Nomos limited editions under its belt – this Club Campus is the second launch this year – which might seem one too many. In fact, the new model is rather similar to an earlier edition, but with red replaced by blue. That said, the “NomiesForLife” edition is appealing, mostly owing to the colours and pronounced affordability – the retail price is under US$1,400. Clean and more restrained compared to the standard Club Campus, the new edition nonetheless retains the “California” dial, which gives it a fun, retro style that’s helped by the blue accents. Basically it caters to anyone who likes the Club Campus for its accessible price and sporty-ish style, but prefers a more understated look. And the new edition is even more affordable than the standard models in relative terms: though priced ex...
Quill & Pad
Dior Attends The Grand Ball – And The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 – With Three New Models
Parisian haute couture house Dior currently has three watches in the running at the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, two of which are based on the magnificent Grand Bal concept. Elizabeth Doerr takes a quick look at them.
Deployant
New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)
Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista. Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Aluminium Tricolore
Having revived its Aluminium series earlier in the year – the model was first launched in 1998 as an affordable, lightweight sports watch – Bulgari has just announced the Aluminium Tricolore, a limited edition created in collaboration with the Aeronautica Militare, Italy’s air force. Clad in dark blue rubber, instead of the conventional black, the Aluminium Tricolore was also conceived with the pandemic in mind, as revenue from the sale of the first 50 watches will go to a trio of children’s hospitals in Italy. Initial thoughts A faddish watch in the years after its launch, the original Aluminium was discontinued about a decade after its introduction, which means enough time has past that it’s interesting again. The new Aluminium has pretty much the same appeal as the original – an unusual combination of materials, lightness, and affordability – but also some of the same drawbacks, namely neither aluminium nor rubber are as durable as steel. Both materials tend to show wear more easily than steel does. Still it is a good-looking sports watch for a relatively modest price of US$3,000 or so, and the Tricolore is a bit more appealing in its new livery that’s a bit less stark than the black and silver of the standard model. It is also a good thing that the tricolour logo on the dial is discreet, which preserves the overall two-tone look of the Aluminium. Frecce Tricolori Named after the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian air force’s famed aerobatics team, the wa...
SJX Watches
Book Review: The Independent Spirit – Time Makers Since 1985
The Independent Spirit: Time Makers Since 1985. By Olivier Muller. AHCI.ch; CHF75.00 Conceived by the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the new book on independent watchmakers wants to address the persistent problem the founding members sought to remedy when they set up the association in 1985. Svend Andersen, one the two cofounders along with Vincent Calabrese, aptly describes the book in the foreword as a publication to raise awareness of independent watchmaking in a manner that’s not available from the mainstream watch press. In essence, the book is an update to The Hands of Time that was published 10 years ago for the AHCI’s 25th anniversary. Like the decade-old edition, the new book serves mainly to market the association’s members, with its structure being familiar to anyone who has seen the booklets that the AHCI has occasionally published, with each member is granted equal real estate to explain his work. The anniversary book of 2010 (left), and ‘The Independent Spirit’ A selection of AHCI booklets published over the last two decades In their own words… The AHCI’s 29 current members gets six pages each in The Independent Spirit, while the seven candidates for membership and 16 former members have one page each. Although Swiss watch journalist Olivier Müller is the “author” of the book, most of its content is a self-presentation by the watchmakers. In my reading, even his editing of their prose must have been restrain...
Revolution
The Rolex King Midas: Worth its weight in Gold
The inimitable Nick Foulkes expounds on his love for the extravagant Rolex King Midas and tells us how its enjoying a revival among collectors, and deservedly so.
Time+Tide
Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here…
The luxury watch industry is only growing around the world, and with many online publishers covering the world of horology extensively it has never been easier to learn about timepieces, their value, and the level of demand. One thing I do truly love about this hobby is there is a clear sense of community, a … ContinuedThe post Found a Patek or a Daytona at a suspiciously low price? It could be stolen stock from Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Check the serial numbers here… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
White Light: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT for Revolution & The Rake
Wei Koh brings us through the ins and outs of our recent launch with Bulgari, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT for Revolution & The Rake.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Chronograph Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Limited Editions Rule The Roost
Is the universal attraction of a chronograph found in the ability to control part of the timekeeping yourself using the often-dynamic-looking extra dials and hands? For the GPHG, at any rate, this is an important category with, as usual, a very strong lineup. So how is our panel leaning when it comes to picking a winner? Find out here.
Time+Tide
The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs…
Editor’s note: If I had to list my most motivational interview of the year, it would be easy. It would be Paul de Gelder. Paul is a former navy clearance diver, turned TV show host and now Seiko ambassador. Paul is an Aussie based in L.A – and his claims to fame are more than … ContinuedThe post The shark attack victim, who has become a Seiko ambassador, relives that fateful day in Sydney Harbour when he lost two limbs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020?
Editor’s note: We’ve had quite the flurry of Bulgari lately, mostly in celebration of the brand’s 2020 collection. And, increasingly, the pinion of the collection is emerging as this model right here. Make no mistake, it doesn’t rightly deserve to be. It’s a simple dial variation away from the black lacquer dial variation that the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo blue dial in satin polished steel the best steel sports watch of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The three most common answers to why the hell you’d wear a watch in lockdown?
For many of you reading, COVID-19 is the virus that will. Not. Go. Away. At first, for most, it was a bit of a quirky change of pace. Fun, even. A blur of Netflix, homemade Negronis and novelties like bare-knuckle fighting for toilet paper. But as it’s ground on, the darkness has subsumed many of … ContinuedThe post The three most common answers to why the hell you’d wear a watch in lockdown? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY
With the ongoing pandemic, everything and everyone has had to adopt new means and methods of connecting and gathering. Each month the Horological Society of New York – who recently visited Melbourne to give watchmaking classes – would have in-person lectures that take a deep dive into the fascinating world of horology and the watch … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe online sales have not kicked in the crisis, and 3 other key takeaways from Eric Ku’s lecture for the HSNY appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 110: The Slowdown's Spencer Bailey & Andrew Zuckerman
Whether you're looking for practical advice or a philosophical conversation, you're in the right place.
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition
Watchmaker and jeweller Chopard has a long been associated with classic cars, owing to its co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who is a passionate collector of vintage automobiles. As a result, Chopard has been a sponsor of the Mille Miglia classic-car rally since 1988 – with Mr Scheufele himself taking part each year. Chopard has released a commemorative edition for each Mille Miglia since, this year’s Mille Miglia 2020 Race Edition is very much in the style of the classic Mille Miglia edition, but more restrained with a black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coated steel case – or dressed up with a rose-gold bezel. Racing champion Jacky Ickx with the new Mille Miglia chronograph Initial thoughts Though based on the standard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph, the 2020 edition has been given an all-black treatment, which Chopard has also recently applied to its L.U.C ultra-thin dress watch. The DLC-coated case is matched with a dial in muted colours that’s also been sandblasted for a matte, grained finish, as have the hands, which results in a coherent, clean look. This year’s version feels more contemporary than many earlier editions of the Mille Miglia chronograph, many of which were dressed in bright, racing colours like green or red. And its dark case finish also makes it feel a little smaller, which is helpful for a relatively large watch. But while the watch looks good and is a limited edition, it’s priced a little steeply at US$6,700 in steel (and an extra...
Revolution
In Conversation with the One & Only, Santa Laura
Wei Koh digs deep into the subject of the passion of watch collecting with the man behind the universally recognized Instagram handle, Santa Laura.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Mechanical Exception Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Exceptional Circumstances Split Down The Middle
The Mechanical Exception category features men’s or ladies’ watches with a special mechanism such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a belt-driven movement, a striking or other acoustic function, or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept. And we surely have an intriguing set of finalists in the Mechanical Exception category this year: everything from a tumbling triple-axis tourbillon to an electronically controlled hybrid timepiece to a paper-thin mechanical watch and an automaton minutely replicating a 16-cylinder engine. And even more!
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: The Incredible Story Of J.B. Champion, Jr.
No, not the bracelets – the guy.
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: Setting the Royal Clocks in Windsor Castle
As daylight savings time ended in the United Kingdom, the full-time horological conservator at Windsor Castle was setting some 400 clocks, one at time – a task that takes some 16 hours. As documented in a recent BBC story, horologist Fjodor van den Broek is responsible for all the clocks at Windsor Castle, while a colleague oversees the timekeepers in Buckingham Palace. Aside from the once-a-year task of setting the clocks for daylight savings time, Mr van den Broek has to wind all of them once a week, which takes an entire day. And he also keeps all of the clocks in running order, performing repairs in his workshop, which is also equipped to fabricate replacement parts for the movements. The story also covers some of the Mr van den Broek’s favourites in the castle, which include a lavish, porcelain-panelled clock gifted to Queen Victoria in 1844 by King Louis-Philippe of France. The 1844 clock given to Queen Victoria Other notable timepieces in the castle – the castle itself is home to about 250 clocks – include a 1740 organ clock that plays music by Handel, and houses a rock crystal casket that contains the bible owned by Gordon of Khartoum. You’ll find the full photo report on the BBC.
Quill & Pad
Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)
Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past
As a watch journalist in 2020, based in Europe under the draconian rule of the pandemic, it’s easy to lose perspective and here is a particular example. Despite my missionary preachings and personal taste, 38-39 millimetres is not the Goldilocks size for everyone. So, with this self-realisation in mind, the TAG Heuer Carrera Collection is … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking?
With concept cars, it is typical for most of the features on the prototype to be weeded out once the design is optimized for manufacturing. The electronical-mechanical Ressence Type 2 is the complete opposite, Joshua Munchow says, as it has retained pretty much every single thing the concept watch of 2018 offered and has only improved in function. Is the Ressence Type 2 the future of mechanical watches?
Time+Tide
“The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang
It feels like a lifetime ago that I was heading home from the DOXA Australia Launch Event to pack my bags for Dubai Watch Week 2019. Since then, the global pandemic put a stop to any in-person watch events (with the exception of the LVMH Watch Week and more recently at a socially distanced Geneva Watch … ContinuedThe post “The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock
Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Messner Limited Edition
A globetrotting limited edition for one of the greatest globetrotters of all time.
Time+Tide
Biver looks to 2021 and says that “most brands will have a V-shaped recovery” to the pandemic
We recently reported on Jean-Claude Biver’s view of the pandemic, after he sat down on a Zoom call with our European Editor Mike. The larger piece of work there was this extraordinary historical document, celebrating a wild 24 years with Hublot. But this digression, where Biver assesses the damage done to the industry by COVID-19 … ContinuedThe post Biver looks to 2021 and says that “most brands will have a V-shaped recovery” to the pandemic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 128: Aquastar, Doxa, And Hayabusa Swaps With Rick Marei
The start of the new vintage trend and how old brands can be made new again.