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Review: the Lorier Astra Worn & Wound
Lorier Dec 27, 2023

Review: the Lorier Astra

Since Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega started Lorier Watches in 2018, their stated goal has been to make a watch that you could wear everyday for the rest of your life. With the new Astra, they’ve come as close as ever to achieving that lofty goal. For those few of you who may be unfamiliar with the brand, Lorier has, over the last five years, taken the enthusiast world by storm. Since their public unveiling in 2018, Lorier has produced a series of vintage inspired watches that punch way above their weight - both in fit and finish, as well as design consideration. I got my first Lorier, a Neptune V.2, in the fall of 2019 and wore it just about everyday for a year. It was the first dive watch that really stuck around in my collection and, during the early days of the pandemic, it was my constant companion. I adored that watch. With its bulbous Hesalite crystal and simple painted dial, it was undoubtedly the watch that taught me to love dive watches. $499 Review: the Lorier Astra Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 Dial Blue, silver Lume Yes Lens Hesalite Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 36 x 44mm Thickness 9mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $499 If you know me, or if you were to read my take on the “3 Watch Collection for $5000,” it should be obvious that I still love dive watches. I wear a dive watch most days and would offer up that, pound for pound, dollar for dollar, a rotating dive bezel is the most usefu...

Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2023 Worn & Wound
Dec 27, 2023

Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2023

Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches of 2023… Of all the archetypes in the big wide watch world, the dive watch and its staying power is unparalleled for collectors, enthusiasts, and the watch-buying public at large. The reasons for this are many but at the most basic level, dive watches are just easy to live with; they are usually robust and durable, have interesting features like bezels and waterproof cases, and just look cool. From both storytelling and product specifications standpoints, they are readily understood and appreciated. As we wrap up the year, here are a few dive watch releases that have stood out to us. All of them can be found right here in the Windup Watch Shop, and all can serve as lifelong companions. In no particular order, here are your Top 5 Dive Watches ...

Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Dec 27, 2023

Best of 2023: Independent Watchmaking

Independent watchmaking got hot in 2021, a phenomenon that accelerated into 2022 and continued in 2023. Perhaps because of that, the number of notable, impressive, or truly interesting debuts from independent watchmakers were few. Still, some of the 2023 debuts stood out for us. We rounded up our team’s favourites of the year, which range from Louis Vuitton and Rexhepi Rexhepi to Marco Lang’s open-source construction to an accessibly-priced Habring². Richard Lee Technical Editor The Marco Lang Zweigeischt-1 is an impressively executed three-hand watch with the option of a novel shock-recording complication. However, it was released in 2020. Its inclusion in the 2023 list is because of the open-source technical plans for the entire watch, all of which were made public this year on Mr Lang’s website. Mr Lang’s generosity in sharing his know-how is uncommon and to be applauded. The importance of this initiative can’t be understated. For one, it ensures the longevity of the Zweigeischt-1, since any competent watchmaker will have access to the design and construction, making servicing and repairs easier. Additionally, the accessibility of this information serves as a guidance and inspiration for new watchmakers who are attempting to create their own timepieces. Garnering much attention this year, the Petermann Bedat Reference 2941 was lauded for being an original split-seconds chronograph design with an excellent level of movement finishing. The visible components ar...

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus Worn & Wound
Dec 26, 2023

Sweden’s E.C. Andersson Debuts the Bold (and Very Thin) Mytilus

We’ve featured E.C. Andersson, a small watch brand out of Sweden, in our Micro-Brand Digest a few times now. Their latest, however, definitely warrants a longer look. The Mytilus is easily their most ambitious design to date, and serves as an extension of what’s come before as well as a bit of a bolder statement. Described by the brand as “retrofuturistic” in its style, it’s been conceived as a distinctive watch that’s also ultra lightweight and thin. It’s part of a larger crop of new designs that we’re incredibly excited about that offer a real taste of the avant-garde at an approachable price point. While the design and manufacturing of the Mytilus is surely quite complex in practice, the concept is fairly straightforward and easy to understand. The “case” is a milled block of solid aluminum and this central component is just 4.1mm thick. The sapphire crystal has a deep box design and pulls double duty as a bezel that holds the unit together. The brand says the crystal is attached to the case directly via six screws, and that total of twenty-one gaskets are used on the Mytilus to ensure water resistance (it’s rated to 60 meters, which is pretty good for such a thin mechanical watch). With the crystal attached, the total thickness of the Mytilus comes in at 9.5mm (the case is 38mm wide). This is a time only watch with a simple, sandwich style dial with lume seen from a lower layer at the cardinal positions. Like the case and caseback, the dial is als...

Best of 2023: Complications SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle but Dec 26, 2023

Best of 2023: Complications

Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM Back Dec 25, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic 35MM

Back in the 1950s when you were setting off for a distant land, a key piece of gear would be your trusty tool watch. Today, you’d reach for something like a Rolex Explorer II with its chunky steel case and bezel, bold handset and healthy application of lume. A Seiko SPB143 would make an excellent option on a tighter budget where other spendy gear takes priority. The point I’m trying to make is that the tool watch as we know it is today typically something big, chunky, robust, and borderline aggressive looking. The landscape for tool watches was completely different back in the 50s. If you were one of the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 task force and on your way to the South Pole back in 1955, the watch you would have been wearing is significantly different from the modern tool watch. That watch would have been the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - a slim, art deco-inspired watch that was built tough, but not in the way you may think of it today. The Deep Freeze 1 task force’s mission was to establish a permanent base at the South Pole - one of the Earth’s most severe and ice-laden landscapes - and they needed to choose a timepiece that could withstand the conditions.  Today we’re looking at the faithful modern recreation of the Antarctic. The 35mm case stays true to the original’s dimensions while retaining the robust construction, including anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties. Let’s take a closer look and see if the new Antarctic lives up to its vintag...

Celebrating the New Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Chronomasters and Datomasters Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Dec 24, 2023

Celebrating the New Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Chronomasters and Datomasters

It turns out lightning can strike twice. When we collaborated with Nivada Grenchen just a year ago on a (very) limited run of Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK64 watches, we knew they were special but were doubtful about the possibility of repeating such an act. After all, unused Valjoux 72 movements don’t just pop up out of nowhere. As luck would have it, Nivada Grenchen has managed to secure another, smaller, batch of Valjoux 72 movements that serves as the foundation for the Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster V2. We haven’t forgotten about the Datomaster either; this year’s edition makes a return utilizing another Meca-Quartz movement – this time in a triple-register layout. The core of what makes this new release so exciting is based on two factors: the horological significance of the Valjoux 72 and the fresh designs of the Chronomaster and Datomaster. It turns out lightning can strike twice. When we collaborated with Nivada Grenchen just a year ago on a (very) limited run of Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK64 watches, we knew they were special but were doubtful about the possibility of repeating such an act. After all, unused Valjoux 72 movements don’t just pop up out of nowhere. As luck would have it, Nivada Grenchen has managed to secure another, smaller, batch of Valjoux 72 movements that serves as the foundation for the Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster V2. We haven’t forgotten about the Datomaster either; this year...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch Zuck’s Hawaiian Dec 23, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: An Incredible Parmigiani Fleurier Pocket Watch, Zuck’s Hawaiian Bunker, and the 100 Best TV Shows of All Time

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Parmigiani Fleurier L’armoriale Pocket Watch  Sometimes we get word of a watch that is just too beautiful and special not to feature. It’s become a tradition for Parmigiani Fleurier to create a special, completely unique pocket watch every year to celebrate founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, and this year they’ve really outdone themselves with a watch they’re calling L’armoriale.  The heart of the timepiece is a mechanical caliber dating to 1890 that was restored by Parmigiani in 1985. Originally a chronograph minute repeater, the movement now features both of those complications as well as a perpetual calendar with a moonphase, a pretty incredible demonstration of Parmigiani’s skill as a watchmaker as well as his devotion to restoration and preserving and sometimes even enhancing horological history. The white gold case features a beautiful enameled caseback, and of course virtually everything here is completely handmade and hand finished, down to the intricate chiseled adornments that run across the case band. It’s a real work of art, worth spending some time gawk...

The Petrolhead Corner – The Incredible Work of Everrati and their Electrified Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda Monochrome
Dec 23, 2023

The Petrolhead Corner – The Incredible Work of Everrati and their Electrified Mercedes-Benz 280SL Pagoda

The small but very interesting industry for high-end restored and bespoke vehicles doesn’t seem to be slowing down. We’re regularly treated to new and exciting projects where a small but extremely skilful workshop or engineering firm aims to build an enhanced version of a prolific vintage car. Often referred to as a restomod, a combination […]

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

The Collector's Corner – The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36 Youngtimer Dec 22, 2023

The Collector's Corner – The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power

When you hear the name TAG Heuer, which watches come to mind? The Monaco, the Carrera, or perhaps the Autavia? Maybe the Aquaracer? But what about the Monza? The Monza can be considered the dark horse of TAG Heuer’s lineup, occasionally popping up over the years but never having quite the staying power as other, […]

IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom Worn & Wound
IWC Chief Dec 22, 2023

IWC Chief of Design Christian Knoop on the New Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Limited Editions for Aquaman and the Last Kingdom

In a year already busy with watch company/movie studio collaborations, IWC Schaffhausen has provided a late entry to the genre just in time for Christmas-well, for those with $57,600 in their gift budget for loved ones. The watch: The Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month The movie: Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom In the film, Aquaman (Jason Momoa) faces off against Black Manta (Yahya Abdul-Mateen II). What Black Manta lacks in virtue, he makes up with cutting edge tech, from his Atlantean armored suit and black IWC Aquatimer with fittingly villainous red lume highlights. Black Manta is joined by the Atlantis-obsessed Dr. Stephen Shin (Randall Park), who gets his own Aquatimer, identical except for the blue lume found on his model. In an interview with Worn & Wound, IWC Creative Director Christian Knoop recalled director James Wan asking for the IWC creative team’s ideas on prop watches. “So I said, ‘yeah, James, we have some concept studies, secret design concepts and probably nobody will ever see them, but we are happy to share them,’” Knoop said. Working with the film’s creative team, Knoop landed on the design they ultimately used and that both teams loved. “We usually take a couple of years to develop a watch and then James and team got super excited and said, ‘okay, can you send over the watches in 10 days,’” said Knoop. The versions used in the film weren’t functional, assembled to meet the quick deadline necessary for the movie, but K...

Introducing – New Dial Colours for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm Monochrome
Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm Dec 22, 2023

Introducing – New Dial Colours for the Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic COSC 39mm

It’s pretty surprising when you think that the Highlife collection, Frederique Constant’s take on the luxury sports watch, has been around for fewer than three years. Thanks to its well-designed and finished case, its integrated and interchangeable bracelet, its clean dial, its well-represented range of complications, its affordable price tag, and the fact that it […]

The F.P. Journe London Boutique is Officially Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe London Boutique Dec 22, 2023

The F.P. Journe London Boutique is Officially Open

As we reported earlier in the year, the F.P. Journe boutique in London at 33 Bruton St is now open. Perfectly placed in the heart of Mayfair, with Berkeley Square at one end and New Bond St at the other, the space used to belong to English gunmaker Holland & Holland, which was once owned by Chanel, an investor in F.P. Journe. We have been lucky enough to go down and see the new store for ourselves, and chat with the friendly team led by Shawn Mehta (pictured above centre alongside Francois-Paul Journe and Amelie Lefevere, chief executive of F.P. Journe). With an aesthetic that will be familiar to anyone who has stepped into one of the brand’s other stores, the space is thoughtful segmented into three parts, with the plan laid out by Mr Journe, who attends to every detail himself. The main area at the front contains the displays of the brand’s watches along with a traditional watchmakers bench and portraits of historical watchmakers that have inspired Mr Journe, including Antide Janvier and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Next sits the “heart” of the boutique according to its staff, the bar area. Stocked with F.P. Journe’s own wine made by Chateau Seguin, it is a fantastic space for discussion. Overlooking this convivial area is a frosted depiction of a Resonance movement that is actually the drinks cabinet. Finally, at the back is a private area with seating where clients consultations take place. A dinner was held to launch the boutique, attended by clients and friends o...

Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field Worn & Wound
Dec 21, 2023

Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field

Every once in a while, you come across someone who can only be described as “The Real Deal” and we’re excited to tell you that Steve Davidson is just that. Steve is an Alaskan bush pilot and backcountry guide who spends his days flying around Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. He’s an avid outdoor enthusiast who grew up surfing and skiing and now takes adventurers, two at a time, deep into the Alaskan wilderness for wildlife spotting and backcountry skiing. Steve knows a thing or two about having the right kind of gear and he relies daily on his 36mm VAER S3 Calendar Field watch. For this final edition of Tool/Kit in 2023, Steve takes us through what it’s like to rely on a watch as a mission critical piece of gear for his life of flying in the bush. The post Tool/Kit: Bush Flying in Alaska with Steve Davidson and the Vaer S3 Calendar Field appeared first on Worn & Wound.