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Review: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m – NY0105-81E Titanium Technology 50th Anniversary Asia Limited Edition Deployant
Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Nov 18, 2020

Review: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m – NY0105-81E Titanium Technology 50th Anniversary Asia Limited Edition

Citizen has been at the forefront of using titanium since 1970 and pioneered many advances in the use of specially hardened titanium in their Duratect in 2000. To celebrate the 50th Anniversary of titanium as a material in watch cases, they introduced the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m NY0105-81E  Titanium Technology 50th Anniversary Asia LimitedRead More

On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers Quill & Pad
Nov 17, 2020

On The Importance Of Antoine Simonin And His Special Jury Prize At The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève By Dr. Rebecca Struthers

Of all the winners from the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, this was the one that really made Dr. Rebecca Struthers smile! Among all the glamour of the watch industry, it’s easy to forget the importance of education; here she reminds us why that – and Antoine Simonin – are important to the wellbeing of our ticking microcosm.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 17, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

Unveiled just earlier this year, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is compelling inside and out – an uncommon, cushion-shaped “bullhead” case with an integrated bracelet, containing the ingenious, well-regarded Agenhor AgenGraphe movement. A limited run of just 100 watches, the launch-edition Streamliner only recently clinched the Chronograph Watch Prize at this year’s Grand Prix de Horlogerie de Geneve, making it the perfect time to launch of the regular-production variant, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue. Initial thoughts Original and appealing in its design, the Streamliner was well-received commercially and critically, making the regular-production version inevitable. Almost identical to the original version, the new version differs only in its dial, which is a metallic blue with a fashionable smoked finish. Notably, the blue dial has a radial, brushed finish, instead of the vertical, linear brushing of the launch edition. While the blue dial is quintessential Moser in colour and style, it isn’t as unique as the pale grey dial on the launch edition – which is a good thing, as it helps differentiate the limited-edition original. That said, the blue dial is attractive – and more striking – with the graduated, fume finish giving it more depth than the typical integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Streamliner chronograph has a price tag of US$43,900 – a sizeable number that’s justifiable because the watch stands out f...

WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag Time+Tide
Tudor Oyster Prince has Nov 17, 2020

WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag

To the average punter, casual enthusiast or proper aficionado, there is one brand that manages to muscle itself into just about every current conversation about watches. And the king rightly wears the crown.  But there’s a problem for many, should they intend to deepen their own relationship with Rolex. Namely, the inflated prices that we … ContinuedThe post WHY I BOUGHT IT: My Tudor Oyster Prince has the Rolex stamp of approval, without the price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner … Nov 16, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire

Once again they manage to surprise us, from ironic rectangular horology to a hypnotising collaboration with MB&F;, to this, where Moser enter the ring for the strongly contested Integrated Steel Sports Watch Bracelet contest. Yes, I tried it on – and did not want to take it off – the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds dragon breathes pure fire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line Time+Tide
Nov 15, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line

Military watches, or tool watches, are incredibly popular in today’s marketplace – with heritage becoming a huge emotional driver behind watch purchases. The Vario 1918 Trench Watch is a new and affordable option for buyers looking for a detail-driven and military-inspired timepiece. Vario carefully considers each component utilised within their Trench watches, working to provide the best … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Vario modernises the first wristwatch with their 1918 Trench line appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future – Reprise Quill & Pad
RGM Nov 15, 2020

RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel Offers Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future – Reprise

When brands look to the past to find the absolute best details to combine into a killer timepiece, the result can be a terrific diver, a classy chronograph, or, in the case of American watchmaking company RGM, a fantastic pocket watch-inspired, enamel-dialed wristwatch like the Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel. Joshua Munchow feels this watch stands apart as a culmination of the brand's ideology.

Jaquet Droz Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Nov 14, 2020

Jaquet Droz Charming Bird Deconstruction By The Naked Watchmaker (Plus Video) – Reprise

Ian Skellern still remembers the sense of awe he felt when he had the opportunity to watch and listen to a recently restored centuries-old Jaquet Droz singing bird. The animation was compelling, and the quality of the birdsong sound was incredible. But as impressive a feat he thought that full-sized eighteenth-century Jaquet Droz singing bird clock was, shrinking that mechanical technology to wristwatch size is just mind-blowing. As The Naked Watchmaker Peter Speake highlights here.

Seiko Introduces the Credor Eichi II with a Blue Porcelain Dial SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Nov 12, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Credor Eichi II with a Blue Porcelain Dial

While next year has yet to start, Seiko has begun the progressive release of the special editions marking the 140th anniversary of its founding in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori. Unquestionably one of the most beautiful of the anniversary, despite being only the second commemorative watch announced so far, is the Credor Eichi II with a dial in ruri blue (ref. GBLT997). The third variant of the Eichi II to date after the original and the rose gold version – or fourth variant if you count the edition for the Wako department store that’s nearly identical to the original – the new model features a porcelain dial glazed in a dark blue that’s reminiscent of lapis lazuli. Requiring two years of development to perfect according to Seiko, the blue glaze is applied in several layers that are individually fired in an oven to create the deep, nuanced colour. Initial thoughts The Eichi II is a brilliantly restrained watch that has a gently designed dial and gorgeously finished movement. Even though Seiko does make more complicated and expensive watches, the Eichi II is arguably the flagship watch of the brand’s top-of-the-line offerings, a halo product of sorts. While the new Eichi II in blue is no doubt beautiful, and perhaps more striking and unusual than the original, it feels like there are too many variants of a special watch. Even though the tangible qualities of the watch remain intact, its status as the ultimate time-only Seiko is being chipped away by the Eichi II iterati...

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes font was created Nov 12, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in Titanium

Originally introduced in pricier precious metals – in gold and also platinum – the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel has been given a makeover that renders it more affordable, and arguably more striking. And like last year’s time-only Slim d’Hermès, the key feature is a titanium case. The new perpetual calendar features a twin-metal case made up of a titanium middle along with the bezel, crown, and pushers in either rose gold or platinum. That, combined with the two-tone grey dial, gives it a modern look that goes well with the Slim d’Hermès font that was designed specifically for the model. The Slim d’Hermes font was created by graphic designer Philippe Apeloig to go with the eponymous watch Initial thoughts Hermes’ house style is always elegant, often quirky, and usually distinctive. Already the Slim d’Hermes design is slim and wears well, and probably slightly better in this iteration since the use of titanium would reduce reduce its weight. A simple design characterised by clean lines, the Slim d’Hermes is recognisable in all its iterations thanks to its smart details, like the angled lugs and custom typography. Though the layout of the perpetual calendar is fairly conventional – everything is arranged into four sub-dials – it manages to be slightly unusual thanks to the seemingly random armament of numerals for the second time zone at six, a minor, offbeat detail that is in keeping with the brand’s style. The titanium-and-platinum versi...

Review with Watchscapes: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph Deployant
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph ... Nov 11, 2020

Review with Watchscapes: Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph

We get hands-on with the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph, introduced in Watches & Wonders Digital Edition in earlier this year. The watch is already in the boutiques and available for sale. Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph In this novelty, Vacheron Constantin unites two coveted technical complications under the Traditionelle banner: the monopusher chronograph,Read More

Kross Studio Introduces the 1989 Batmobile Desk Clock SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 11, 2020

Kross Studio Introduces the 1989 Batmobile Desk Clock

Only just established by a team of watch-industry veterans, Kross Studio is making its debut with the 1989 Batmobile Desk Clock. Instantly recognisable as the Batmobile driven by Michael Keaton as Batman, the clock is powered by an in-house, 30-day movement. The aluminium-bodied clock is modelled on the Batmobile from Batman, the hit 1989 film directed by Tim Burton. Its sleek, Art Deco lines defined the styling of the Batmobile in all subsequent movies, until the franchise was rebooted with Christopher Nolan’s Batman Begins, which reimagined the Batmobile as an aggressive, military-style vehicle known as the Tumbler. Initial thoughts The Batmobile Desk Clock is cool, especially for anyone who grew up in the 1990s, when Michael Keaton’s Batman was the definitive version of the “Caped Crusader”. Importantly, Kross Studio managed to capture the look of the vehicle while unobtrusively incorporating the clock elements without disrupting the design. Mechanically it is also well executed. Unlike most high-end desk clocks that are powered by movements made by L’Epee 1839, the Batmobile clock is equipped with a movement of Kross Studio’s own design and manufacture. At a bit under US$30,000, the clock is priced reasonably enough, though not quite a value buy. The cost is similar to comparable clocks by MB&F;, though not as affordable as the self-propelling car clock made by independent watchmaker John-Mikaël Flaux. A clockmaking startup Founded by a five-person team, ...

Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Iconaut “weird” Nov 11, 2020

Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it?

Editor’s note: Ask most watch enthusiasts what Tudor’s first GMT wristwatch was and they’ll tell you it’s the perpetually popular Black Bay GMT aka “The Diet Pepsi”. And that, my friends, is the wrong answer. Tudor’s first timepiece equipped with a GMT complication was actually a model called the Iconaut. A chunky, bulbous-looking thing, this … ContinuedThe post Peter calls his Tudor Iconaut “weird” and “odd-looking” with looks “only a mother could love”. So, why did he buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Release info and Insider commentary: the new Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater with Jumping Seconds. Deployant
Patek Philippe Ref 6301P Grande Nov 10, 2020

Release info and Insider commentary: the new Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater with Jumping Seconds.

Patek Philippe releases an ultra complicated watch in the form of the Ref. 6301P Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater with Jumping Seconds. This is the first Grande and Petite Sonnerie without any other complication in a Patek Philippe wristwatch.  Press release information with commentary in italics Key highlights Grand Complication highlighting the chiming functions:Read More

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Deployant
Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori Nov 10, 2020

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

As the year of the 160th anniversary of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, draws to a close, Grand Seiko  proudly celebrates his life and achievements with a Spring Drive masterpiece. The watch is powered by Caliber 9R02 and features a Platinum 950 case with indexes and hour and minute hands in 14K white gold. A secondRead More

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary

Seiko is gearing up to celebrate two anniversaries in 2021 – 160 years since the birth of its founder as well as the 140th year of the company – and has just announced one watch to mark each occasion, no doubt the first of many commemorative watches. The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary Limited Edition (ref. SBGZ005) is a remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960 – the first Grand Seiko – but enhanced with a patterned dial and the exceptionally-finished 9R02 Spring Drive movement, and accompanied by an exceptionally-high price tag. Initial thoughts With its design essentially a replica of the first Grand Seiko, the SBGZ005 is a classically handsome watch and perhaps the quintessential Grand Seiko design. Though the overall style remains identical to the vintage original, it’s been dressed up subtly – with a radial, geometric motif on the dial, which also has solid, 14k gold hands and hour markers. All those additions make it look even more appealing without taking away from its original aesthetic. While the look is attractive, Grand Seiko has been remaking the original model too often, and at an accelerating pace. This is the fifth (or even sixth) remake of the Grand Seiko 3180, with the last one having just been launched earlier this year. The proliferation of remakes leaves the 3180 design a little too common for comfort. And then there’s the movement, which is the 9R02 that’s also found in the Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive...

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Nov 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink

Conversations around gender politics are mostly avoided within the watch world, for a multitude of reasons. Arguments tend to get in the way of the mutual appreciation for the hobby, just like any contentious topic, but there is a glaring problem with how most companies go about their watch marketing. Opinions aside, that absolutely anyone … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The virile vitality of the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.