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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Oct 15, 2020

De Bethune Introduces the DW5 Cempasúchil

Already a well-established tradition at De Bethune, the unusual use of metal alloys along with elaborate engraving defines the Maestri’Art DW5 Cempasúchil, a unique watch created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería México (SIAR), the country’s leading luxury-watch fair that takes place October 20-22. The Cempasúchil is a unique piece that’s the latest instalment in the Dream Watch 5 (DW5) series that started out as a sleek creation resembling a metallic seashell. More recently, the DW5 has more recently been used as a blank canvas for heavily decorative engraving, something the Cempasúchil takes that to the extreme. The titanium case of the Cempasúchil is heat blued and inlaid with gold in various colours, forming an intricate yet cartoonish motif inspired by the Mexican festival of Día de Muertos, or Day of the Dead. And that explains the model name, which is also a type of marigold also known as flor de los muertos, or “flower of the dead”. Cempasúchil front And back Initial thoughts Done by De Bethune’s go-to engraver, the quality of the work on the Cempasúchil is unmistakably high quality. And the multi-coloured gold inlay elevates the work to another level entirely. And the exuberant, whimsical of multiple calavera, or decorated skulls, is very much in keeping with the spirit of the Day of the Dead, a celebration of the departed rather than a sad occasion. But the combination of the DW5 and the motif doesn’t gel. Traditionally seamless,...

By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Oct 14, 2020

By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition

EDITOR’S NOTE: We first published this story in July 2020 in the lead-up to the purported release of the new James Bond film, No Time to Die. And then the film was delayed and delayed and delayed. Until now… But while you may have got impatient for Daniel Craig’s last hurrah, don’t take it out on his Omega … ContinuedThe post By the end of this video, you’ll know if you need James Bond’s Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze Time+Tide
Yema Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze

The Yema Superman is a strong vintage diver, with two selling points that should be a wake-up call for other brands, starting with an obvious and rather rhetorical question: When you go out to buy a pair of jeans with your slimmer and shorter mate (speaking for myself here), do you buy the exact same … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Yema Superman Bronze collection debuts two new in-house calibers, with fresh dials in a strong combination of steel and bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Another Head-Scratcher For Our Panelists But There’s A Clear Favorite Quill & Pad
Oct 13, 2020

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Another Head-Scratcher For Our Panelists But There’s A Clear Favorite

The Iconic category emphasizes men’s or women’s watches from a brand’s emblematic collection, meaning one that has had a lasting influence on watchmaking and its history as well as having been on the market for more than 20 years. Our panelists have mixed feelings about the Iconic category and are (nearly) split down the middle on picking a favorite.

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Oct 13, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Perpetual EVO

The most complicated MB&F; watch when it was launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual (or LM QP) was powered by an ingenious movement combining a “split” escapement and a novel perpetual calendar mechanism developed by Irish watchmaker Stephen McDonnell. Now MB&F; has reworked the watch to create its sportier and more robust successor, the LM Perpetual EVO. Featuring several tweaks to the case, dial, and movement that are cumulatively significant, the LM Perpetual EVO boasts increased water resistance along with an integrated rubber strap. The LM Perpetual EVO is a limited edition of 15 watches each in black, blue, and orange Initial thoughts Even though the Legacy Machine (LM) line was conceived as something inspired by the 19th century and Jules Verne, the LM Perpetual with its open-worked, intricate dial was always stylishly modern, though that was toned down by the white-lacquered sub-dials of the original model. The EVO, however, makes full use of the open-worked dial to become an uber-contemporary watch. Both the material and construction of the case are new: it’s now zirconium with a more complicated architecture, featuring recessed sides and angular lugs that integrate with the strap. And the sub-dials are black, creating a striking contrast against the base plate in black, blue, or orange. Most notably, the EVO brings to mind the Harry Winston Project Z1, which was the other major product developed by MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser when he was chief executive of ...

Czapek and Arab Watch Club Introduce the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz” SJX Watches
Czapek Oct 13, 2020

Czapek and Arab Watch Club Introduce the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz”

A collaboration between Arab Watch Club and Czapek to create a one-off wristwatch that will benefit a good cause has reach fruition. Inlaid with an unusual green mineral, the Place Vendôme “Al Kanz” is decorated with engraved motifs inspired by Middle Eastern culture. Al kanz, or أل كنز, is Arabic for “the treasure”, and the namesake watch will be exhibited in Dubai later this month before being sold at Christie’s online auction in November, with all proceeds going to the Emirates Foundation, a charity established by the government of Abu Dhabi. Initial thoughts One-off watches created for charity auctions make sense, since they benefit both the watchmaker and a worthy cause, which in this case is an organisation focused on youth in the region. The brainchild of Hassan Akhras, founder of Arab Watch Club (AWC), the Al Kanz is a thoughtful collaboration that has resulted in a striking watch. The use of zoisite adds new colour to the watch, with the bright green mineral rings highlighting the architecture of the movement. In fact, the stock version of the Place Vendôme is a bit too plain, while this version is livened up just enough. Although the green and aubergine accents are striking, they are relatively restrained so the overall appearance remains classical and clean. What’s new The highlight of the Al Kanz is definitely the dial. The additional of colour and texture to the sub-dials immediately set it apart from the standard Place Vendôme models ...

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year Quill & Pad
Oct 13, 2020

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year

In perusing the names of the 2020 jury of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, two distinct things became obvious to former jury member Elizabeth Doerr: that the entire jury is based in Switzerland and that it is far less diverse than it has been over the last decade. Here she breaks down why that is and provides some commentary and background on the new members.

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review WatchAdvice
Patek Philippe Oct 13, 2020

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review

It seems that the world of horology has been taken over by two trends over the past decade or so, blue integrated sports watches, and green dive watches. Every brand has been engaged in a cold war era arms race to produce the best of these two fads. An arms race that has been all but won by two global superpowers, Patek Philippe with their Nautilus have staked claim to being the kings of all things integrated bracelet. Rolex, raining supreme with their famed but now discontinued, Green Submariner, a behemoth of the industry aptly named, the Hulk. The industries lesser powers have been fighting to keep up with the demand and surge in popularity of the aforementioned icons. With that surge, and such low supply, the masses have flocked to pre-owned markets, the grey market, for the chance to pay near double the RRP and have the privilege of owning the most famous green dive watch. Thankfully, in an attempt to share in the hysteria, brands have rushed to offer their own versions of pieces like the Submariner Hulk, offering consumers viable alternatives in which to spend their hard-earned money. The Longines HydroConquest green, is one such alternative, but is it a true Hulk buster? or just another puny watch in a bright green suit? Editors note: The model reviewed in this feature is reference L3.781.4.06.9 the 41mm variant which is supplied on the green rubber strap. Other models are available for configuration, including 43mm case sizes and stainless-steel bracelets. No opini...

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Oct 13, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003

Grand Seiko has progressively introduced a diverse line up of watches to mark its 60th anniversary, ranging from a remake of the vintage 3180 to the heavily jewelled 8 Days to the T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, while also opening the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi production facility. Now the brand has finally reached the last of it anniversary watches with the Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Caliber 9SA5 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours SLGH003. Although the 60th anniversary watches are numerous, the most significant was the Hi-Beat 80 Hours SLGH002, which was powered by the newly-developed 9SA5, the first of a new generation of movements that will underpin the Grand Seiko collection. The SLGH002 was available only in 18k yellow gold and correspondingly pricey, but now the movement is available in the all-steel SLGH003. Initial thoughts From the perspective of being a more affordable version of the yellow-gold SLGH002, the SLGH003 is appealing. It’s still an expensive watch – the retail price is US$9,700 – but a lot less than the US$43,000 of the gold model. But from the perspective of it being one of several anniversary editions, many of which share the same dial colour, it is less appealing. That is especially so given that the 9SA5 movement will inevitably be made available in regular-production models that will probably cost a bit less. So if the colour and design is a big draw, then the SLGH003 is a buy. If not, just wait for the next one. Anniversary livery The SLGH003 h...

INTRODUCING: The MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a new haute horlogerie player in the sports watch market Time+Tide
MB&F; Oct 13, 2020

INTRODUCING: The MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a new haute horlogerie player in the sports watch market

The complexity is tangible, the feeling is tingly yet disturbing. I’m seeing the unreal sight of the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, or any MB&F; for that matter – on a moulded soft rubber strap in an image surely done with a green screen CGI. I mean, mountain biking or hiking with a piece of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO is a new haute horlogerie player in the sports watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future Quill & Pad
Bulgari Aluminium Watches Oct 12, 2020

New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future

The two new Bulgari Aluminium models look a lot like their predecessors, which makes you realize how timeless the design is. They don't even look retro, highlighting the timeless quality of the original design. And the good news is that they are relatively affordable compared to other watches in Bulgari's collection. What else do these watches have going for them?

INTRODUCING: No Time To Die might be delayed, but the new Swatch x 007 ²Q is available right now Time+Tide
Swatch Oct 11, 2020

INTRODUCING: No Time To Die might be delayed, but the new Swatch x 007 ²Q is available right now

After the success of the previous Swatch x 007 collaboration, another tough and colourful watch is back, now exclusively in time for the release of No Time To Die. In his infinite wisdom, Q has tinkered away in his basement and come up with the Swatch x 007 ²Q. Here we have a brash and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: No Time To Die might be delayed, but the new Swatch x 007 ²Q is available right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari Time+Tide
Bulgari Most Oct 11, 2020

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari

Most of us probably haven’t tried to draw anything since high school, and those high school drawings are unlikely to be works of art. Even to the encouraging eyes of our parents. But don’t worry, because it’s never too late to learn a new skill, especially when you’ve got the best teachers, and you’re learning … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time Quill & Pad
Bovet Oct 10, 2020

Bovet Récital 27: The Trinity Of Time

The Bovet Récital 27 is built around a triple time zone display that one might imagine could become busy, but Bovet is rather skilled at combining complications in a way that doesn’t seem forced in any respect. But for Joshua Munchow, the most dramatic element on this dial is the double moon phase display, which shows the current moon phase in both the southern and northern hemispheres. And there is one more element he loves here, can you guess which?

Would you pay $13,000USD for a Speedy that’s spent 188 days in space? Because that’s the current online bid… Time+Tide
Oct 10, 2020

Would you pay $13,000USD for a Speedy that’s spent 188 days in space? Because that’s the current online bid…

Now, we all have an image of the Speedmaster Professional, the icon, the Tool of Tool watches, the Moon Watch. A beautiful 42mm piece of history, with its delicate white lumed baton hands pointing to a still timeless sixties minute track, and delicate slightly recessed sub chronograph registers on a plain, matt monochromatic dial. Twisted … ContinuedThe post Would you pay $13,000USD for a Speedy that’s spent 188 days in space? Because that’s the current online bid… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette”

One of the “It” watches of the 2000s was the Patek Philippe Twenty~4, which was launched in 1999 as an elegant yet everyday watch for women in steel with a bracelet and quartz movement, making it affordable and chic. Having unveiled the round Twenty-4 automatic two years now, Patek Philippe has rebooted the original Twenty-4 “Manchette”, once again in steel with new dials in blue and grey. And like the original, it has a steel bracelet, hence the nickname – manchette being French for “cuff”. Initial thoughts While the round, automatic Twenty-4 is larger and perhaps more casual, the original rectangular model is more compact, giving it a slightly more formal style – but the new dial design avoids looking old fashioned. And the rectangular Twenty-4 has been around long enough it is easily recognisable, despite the relatively simple styling, making it the signature Patek Philippe watch for ladies. The central element of the new Twenty-4 is the facelifted dial. Doing away with the diamond indices and Roman numerals of the original, the new dial is cleaner and more modern, while also having luminous hands and hour markers. The upside of a quartz watch is that it more easily accessible than a mechanical watch, in both pricing and functionality, avoiding winding and setting the time. And this particular model does not have a second hand, so its identity is hidden. Priced at about US$14,700, the Twenty-4 is very expensive for a quartz watch with a steel case. An...

Auction Watch: The First Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Oct 9, 2020

Auction Watch: The First Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary

Phillip’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 8 encompasses Retrospective: 2000-2020, a sale centred on important watches of the last 20 years. The Retrospective catalogue was curated by Blackbird, best known as the sole agent for Ferrari in Hong Kong, but also the publisher of a watch magazine. Naturally, independent watchmaking looms large in the selection, and a Philippe Dufour Simplicity was almost expected. Phillips and Blackbird have gone one further: going under the hammer will be the very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary, numbered “00/20”. Conceived to mark the two decades since Mr Dufour unveiled his signature wristwatch, the anniversary Simplicity is very much like the classic version of the watch, but enhanced with various extras. The 37 mm now includes a hinged, hunter case back, while the crown is topped with the “PD” logo. More obvious are the changes to the dial. While it retains the traditional guilloche and dauphine hands, the hour markers are now applied Breguet numerals and at 12 o’clock sits an extra-large “PD” emblem. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary is a limited edition of 21 watches, or more specifically, an edition of 20 plus this watch that is numbered “00/20”. There will be seven each in platinum, rose as well as white gold. The estimate on Simplicity “00/20” is 200,000-400,000 Swiss francs – reasonable relative to the record price recently set by Sotheby’s in Hong Kong – and it will be sold on Novembe...