Revolution
The Story of Early Roger Dubuis
The first-born creations of the renowned watchmaker for his eponymous brand perhaps best reflect his ideals in watch and movement designs.
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special
Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...
Revolution
Available In The Shop: The Limited Edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak QEII Cup
The Royal Oak QEII Cup 2017 is an impressive and lightweight limited edition Royal Oak sure to become sought after in the future.
Time+Tide
Chronomentrophobia is the fear of clocks and watches. My son might have it. So what’s it all about?
“Chronomentrophobia” is the fear of clocks or timepieces. So what's it all about?The post Chronomentrophobia is the fear of clocks and watches. My son might have it. So what’s it all about? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Chopard L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox – a hands-on review
Chopard ushers in the upcoming (Feb 12) Chinese New Year with the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Ox. We bring you this review.
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Top 5 RESPECTED Entry Watch Brands TO PUT YOU IN THE GAME!
SJX Watches
Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02
An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...
Time+Tide
Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch
Many, many people out there view the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner as the forefather of all amphibious timepieces. And they’re dead wrong. In fact, the first truly fit-for-purpose dive watch was made by one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers in the game – Blancpain. The story of the world’s first dive watch is an interesting one, … ContinuedThe post Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Zenith brings back its first and most iconic El Primero calibre with the new Chronomaster Revival A385
Zenith brings back its first and most iconic El Primero calibre with the new Chronomaster Revival A385. Here are the details.
Revolution
The Ebel ‘Sonny Crockett’ -an El Primero Chrono That Could Become Your Vice
Ross Povey looks at a Zenith El Primero-driven chrono from the 1980s and ’90s that won’t break your bank. So, comb your mullet through, pop on your espadrilles and let’s hit Miami and check out the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1911…
SJX Watches
Hautlence Debuts the Spherical, 3D Jump Hour Once Again
Founded almost two decades ago, making one of the pioneers in contemporary watchmaking, Hautlence has long specialised in unusual, or even avant-garde, time display, like the chain-link hours in the Vortex. Boasting a three-dimensional spherical indicator, the new HL Sphere 02 is even more impressive, reimagining the familiar jumping hours complication as few have managed to do. A follow up to the original HL Sphere introduced last year, the HL Sphere 02 is essentially the same watch dressed more formally, replacing the muted blue-and-grey palette of the original version with a solid pink-gold dial. An animation of the transition from 10 to 11 o’clock Initial thoughts Though the HL Sphere 02 isn’t new, its spherical jumping hours remains novel and interesting. While conventional jumping hours operate on a single plane, relying on a flat disc that moves once an hour, the watch interprets the complication in a throughly different manner that is unique in watchmaking. In fact, the spherical jump hour is more impressive than Hautlence gets credit for. It is arguably on par with inventions like Urwerk’s satellite-cube time display, but because Hautlence isn’t as prominent as its peers – perhaps a consequence of changing management over the years – the brand’s complications don’t get as much recognition as they otherwise should. The HL Sphere 02 is almost identical to the original – the white gold, TV-shaped case and movement are the same – with the only ...
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The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 delivers a leaner and meaner smartwatch
Revolution
Available In The Shop: Two Limited Editions Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
The two limited edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore step away from the classic materials used in the collection and are bound to become future collectibles.
SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy
Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...
Time+Tide
Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners
Is Seiko’s NH35 movement ubiquitous due to its brilliance or sheer availability? This hand-wound, hacking movement is today widely used on the microbrand scene and is basically the unbranded version of Seiko’s 4R35 movement that’s universally admired for its toughness and accuracy. Similarly reliable and robust, the NH35 is a strong mechanical heart fitted to … ContinuedThe post Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
90 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Celebrating an anniversary like 90 years is a must when you’re a wristwatch as old and as evergreen as the Reverso. In honor of the long and successful career of the horological icon, let’s take a brief look back over the last nine decades of this truly authentic timepiece, an Art Deco original in the world of watches.
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Blancpain declares eternal love with the new Villeret Women Date
Blancpain celebrates St. Valentine's Day for 2021 with an extension to the Villeret Women's Date with Cupid motifs in a special 28 piece limited edition.
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The history of the IWC Big Pilot and how it became a stone-cold classic
Revolution
Oscillating Pinion: The Unsung Chronograph Coupling Solution
While the oscillating pinion has somewhat of a bad rap for being an economical, if not crude coupling system in chronograph mechanisms, it was the chosen method of engagement in two of the most interesting (high-end) chronograph watches in recent times. We take a look at the history of its use, the pros and cons of its construction and its application in modern watchmaking.
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Six great watch recommendations to be stylish in the Wet Weather from Our Archives for Throwback Sundays
In this week's Throwback Sundays column, we take a look at some of the stylish timepieces that we reckon are suitable for the recent wet weather in Singapore.
Time+Tide
Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh
While I deeply enjoyed writing the story about unlikely grail watches on rubber straps, let’s be honest. Most of them are far out of reach for most mortals even with a serious budget, given the watches’ limited supply. So here is a look at some more accessible examples that are tough, fresh and, most importantly, … ContinuedThe post Rubber fetish: 5 of the best sports watches on rubber straps from monochrome to lemon fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection
When it comes to a significant anniversary, a diamond ring is always a welcome gift that’ll make her positively swoon with gratitude for a day or two. But why not invest in a matching set of watches? “His and hers” might conjure up slightly naff images, but the reality can actually prove to be a … ContinuedThe post His & hers watches are the anniversary gift that lets you justify adding a new piece to your collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vianney Halter Returns with the Deep Space Resonance
After a seven-year hiatus since the launch of his last watch, Vianney Halter is back with the Deep Space Resonance. Unveiled in prototype form but slated for delivery in summer 2021, the Deep Space Resonance is an impressively complex watch – the tourbillon assembly alone is 371 parts – that builds on the Deep Space Tourbillon of 2013. Like its predecessor, the new watch is also a triple-axis tourbillon, but now equipped with a pair of hairsprings and balance wheels within the tourbillon – both of which beat in acoustic resonance according to Mr Halter. Initial thoughts The Deep Space Resonance is a unique complication, to a degree. It’s a first in combining a triple-axis tourbillon with double balance wheels beating in acoustic, rather than mechanical, resonance. And the incorporation of the acoustic resonance phenomenon is also a first in watchmaking as far as I know, though it is somewhat fuzzy in terms of how it enhances the functioning of the watch. The tourbillon and its driving wheels The closest anyone else has come to this is Beat Haldimann with his H2 that has a flying tourbillon rotating on a single plane but with twin, mechanically-resonating balance wheels. Still, arriving as it is in 2021, the Deep Space Resonance feels overdue. The best known mechanical-resonance wristwatches came long before: the Haldimann H2 made its debut in 2005, while the better-known F.P Journe Resonance in 2000. And the Philippe Dufour Duality, which relies on twin balance w...
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An Iconic Hamilton Design - The Ventura Quartz
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio
After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...
Revolution
Available In The Shop: The Tudor Black Bay Bronze “Bucherer” Edition
The so-called Blue Editions by retailer Bucherer are some of the most sought-after items in the watch market, and the Tudor Black Bay Bucherer Edition is no exception.
Time+Tide
Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort?
Fact: we are stuck in the strap-technology stone age while the world is moving on. Is the 100-year-old technology of the spring bar beautiful nostalgia? Or simply large manufacturers being lazy? We all have a story of that one time, changing a strap to match up that outfit, fiddling with a screwdriver, scratching the lug, … ContinuedThe post Why can’t the watch industry match Apple Watch straps for comfort? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable
The term “grail watch” is used to refer to the ultimate collection piece. It might be a rare vintage treasure or a modern horological marvel depending on your personal taste. Effectively though it represents the Mount Everest of your watch-buying ambitions and is likely to be financially ruinous. Grail watches traditionally therefore conjure up images … ContinuedThe post You’re not the only one whose grail watch is on a rubber strap. Here are 5 of the most desirable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze
Roni Madhvani is one of the biggest vintage watch aficionados on the planet. His Instagram page – @roni_m_29 – is the stuff of legend and showcases his treasure trove of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. Conspicuously, however, it’s one of the few … ContinuedThe post What super-collector Roni Madhvani thinks about the steel sports watch craze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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