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Quill & Pad
George Cramer was pleased to see a stunning new historically inspired Santos-Dumont model in stainless steel at SIHH 2019. And to his Cartier-enamored eye it looked even better than the model from the now-defunct Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) collection.
Worn & Wound
Jack Carlson is ending 2023 how he started it: With a Zodiac collaboration. The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac “Rouchefoucauld” Super Sea Wolf World Timer follows January’s Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf, and is just the latest in a line of playful watch collaborations from Carlson’s clothing brand-this one with a subtle nod to Trading Places, the the 1983 classic comedy starring Eddie Murphy and Dan Aykroyd. In the film, Akroyd’s WASPy Louis Winthorpe III tries to pawn his (fictional) watch, the Rochefoucauld, which he describes as “the sports watch of the 80s,” with the notable detail that it tells time in Monte Carlo, Beverly Hills, London, Paris, Rome, and Gstaad. “It’s not a real watch of course-but for a long time, I’ve thought: this should exist,” said Carlson. The Rouchefoucauld nod is peak Rowing Blazers: preppy and fun, with a touch of whimsy. It’s a sensibility that is found not just in RB’s watches, but in Carlson’s personal watch collection as well. He owns some of the classics, of course, like a Seiko SKX, and a no-date Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT-Master from the 1980s, but Carlson has a taste for the colorful and unique. Take, for example, the digital Pac-Man watch, Mickey Mouse Timex, and Tin-Tin watch that can be found in his watch box. Or the Domino’s-branded Rolexes, which the pizza brand used to give to franchisees who hit certain sales goals and which Carlson now collects. Carlson called the wat...
Monochrome
The 1950s and 1960s have been a groundbreaking era for watches when it comes to water resistance. Although the concept of a watertight case wasn’t new at that point, technological and material advancements allowed for great strides to be made in creating waterproof watches. Names such as Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, SUB 300, Seamaster and many […]
Time+Tide
From a purple Daytona to an Advanced Research Patek Philippe - Zach brings you the inside scoop.The post Rare Asprey Rolex Daytona and more up for grabs now at Sotheby’s Fine Watches online auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
This year marks the 35th anniversary of Frederique Constant, and there is plenty to celebrate. With 31 in-house calibres under its belt, including complications like the tourbillon, perpetual calendar, flyback chronograph or the advanced Monolithic Oscillator, the brand founded by Dutch couple Aletta and Peter Stas and now in the hands of Citizen Group has […]
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Monochrome
A savvy mix of boldness and French poetry, Trilobe timepieces eschew traditional codes and provide their own offbeat take on mechanical watchmaking. Dubai Watch Week provided the perfect opportunity to sit down with its CEO/founder and creative director, Gautier Massonneau, to discuss how this young independent watchmaking brand was born, his plans for the future […]
SJX Watches
Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast, which will be all about in-depth conversations with people from the heart of the industry, discussing the topics that matter. Our first episode is about collecting: during Dubai Watch Week, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to their pursuit of watches, and listening to them talk about the reasoning behind each is not only fascinating, but sheds light on collectors’ perspectives. The conversation includes hot topics like what it’s like trying to buy from certain brands when you’re not at the top of the “list” and even the safety of wearing recognisable timepieces in European cities. We hope you enjoy the half hour conversation.
Monochrome
A brand with a distinctive identity, Rado is widely recognised as a pioneer of innovative materials, starting with the world’s first scratchproof material used on board the DiaStar of 1962 and evolving to become a reference in the production of high-tech ceramic cases. Interestingly, Rado has developed these materials in tandem with the brand’s other […]
Quill & Pad
Many of the trends that we have experienced happening slowly over the last few years have continued. These include more dial colors, case materials, and a shift to smaller case sizes. However, it feels we have also hit a turning point where some changes are coming about.
Revolution
Being the first Furlan Marri with a mechanical chronograph movement, we also want to focus on the beautiful dials and just the fact of the amount of attention to detail given to individual pieces. These pieces all come with the elevated inner dial which is brushed nicely to finish, accompanied by the pulsation indicator chapter […]
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Worn & Wound
The latest collaboration between design firm Massena LAB, and Italian watchmaker UNIMATIC is well underway with their Modello Cinque U5S-ML. Like any good partnership, both parties should bring something to the table – and this timepiece is no exception. Combining the thoughtful design language that Massena has become known for, with the craftsmanship of Unimatic, the U5S-ML is nuanced, balanced and, above all, flattering for just about anyone. Most noticeable upfront is the smaller size of this reference. The Modello Cinque U5S-ML boasts a 36mm brushed stainless steel case. For those who have followed UNIMATIC, you might be aware that this smaller case size is a departure for the brand – but should be a welcome one for enthusiasts looking for a watch with a smaller footprint. The 36mm style firmly places the U5S-ML in the midsize and unisex categories, broadening the appeal to a wider and more diverse audience. The watch itself was inspired by the industrial style boom of the mid-1900’s, with reference points taken from the work of Dieter Rams and even Bavarian automobile dashboards. This is most evident in the clean lines and minimalistic dial that’s unobtrusive but nonetheless stylish and modern. Running along the matte black dial surface we have glossy white markers, and hour and minute hands that are matte black ladder phantoms (and accented in Super-LumiNova C1). The same design details are found on the caseback, which features a UNIMATIC x Massena LAB Fibo...
Monochrome
Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick has made a conscientious effort to restore revival-brand Airain’s name and image through carefully curated re-editions of historic watches. Not only has the Type 20 captured the hearts and minds of enthusiasts and collectors, but the Sous-Marine is set to do the same. Both collections are inspired by past designs […]
Time+Tide
The Amsterdam-based Ace Jewelers are really making their name known throughout the watch world thanks to their collaborations, especially with the likes of Nomos and the Diversity Series with Elka. Nivada Grenchen have had quite an extraordinary comeback in recent years, simultaneously embracing their storied heritage and experimenting with fun collabs. The new Ace x … ContinuedThe post Go exploring with The Ace x Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic Polar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The Alpiner Extreme collection is Alpina’s take on the hyper-popular category of sports watches with integrated bracelets. Relaunched in 2022 with a robust cushion-shaped case and a textured dial, the first model took many by surprise with its regulator dial, a throwback to a popular and massive 48mm Alpina model known as the Avalanche Regulator […]
SJX Watches
Bulgari recently joined forces with the publisher of Gran Turismo, the bestselling video game known for its realistic portrayal of motor racing, in a pop-culture collaboration that diverges from its past partnerships with artists or architects. The result is the Bulgari Aluminium x Gran Turismo Special Edition that’s based on the brand’s signature rubber-and-aluminium chronograph. And alongside the watches, the collaboration has also spawned the Bulgari Aluminium Vision GT concept car, which is fully playable in the game. Initial thoughts Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Creative Director, has made known his admiration for Japanese arts and culture. This inclination is evident in the brand’s Octo Finissimo collaborations, several of which were collaboration with notable creative personalities from Japan, including architect Tadao Ando. So it’s not a surprise that he has extended the exploration of Japanese culture by calling on the Sony division that created one of the world’s bestselling video game franchises. Bulgari’s creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani with Japanese gaming designer and Gran Turismo creator Kazunori Yamauchi. Image – Bulgari The choice of the Aluminium collection as the platform for the special edition is logical, given the sporty nature of the model and the use of aluminium in motor racing. Though the two models retain the same case and bracelet as the standard version, the distinctive feature lies in their racin...
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee and Longines are back for another limited edition collaboration, to create the ideal everyday travel watch with the Longines Spirit Zulu Time Limited Editon for Hodinkee.
Monochrome
A highly respected yet niche name in the field of dive watches, Squale is a brand that should not be overlooked thanks to its historical impact, the coolness of its watches and the accessible price at which these are offered. Typical no-nonsense aquatic instruments, the brand combines vintage designs with robust construction and reliable movements, […]
Worn & Wound
If you’ve met Chase Fancher, founder of Oak & Oscar, you probably know that he’s something of a bourbon enthusiast. I’m not saying you’ll be plied with the stuff if you come hang out at his booth at a Windup, but I’m not saying that’s definitively off the table, either. So it wasn’t a huge surprise when news came across the transom that Oak & Oscar’s latest limited edition is a thoughtful collaboration with FEW Spirits, whose founder and master distiller Paul Hletko is a personal friend of Chase’s. The new watch, a variation on Oak & Oscar’s popular Olmsted, the brand’s 38mm field watch, has plenty of little Easter eggs for bourbon lovers, but is also just a great looking execution of what has become a signature referenced. Those Easter eggs are threefold. First, the dial the color of the Olmsted FEW is a dark salmon tone lifted directly from FEW’s own color palette. It should be immediately recognizable to fans of the FEW spirits, but is also an altogether appealing shade in its own right, and represents Oak & Oscar’s first attempt at a salmon dial, a color that has taken off in popularity (and proven to be highly versatile in a huge variety of watches) over the last few years. Second, and this is somewhat standard on these types of collaborations, the FEW logo is displayed near the 6:00 position. Besides the FEW and Oak & Oscar branding, the dial is quite clean, without any excess text, and lets the color shine (but, not literally, because it...
Monochrome
In 2020, Guillaume Laidet breathed new life into Nivada Grenchen, unveiling heritage-inspired models like the Chronomaster and the Antarctic. The brand’s resurgence continued with modern interpretations and reissues, including the Super Antarctic series, the brand’s take on the exploration watch. The collaboration with Dutch retailer Ace Jewelers has given rise to the latest release, the […]
Monochrome
As the Product Creation Executive Director at Bulgari Horlogerie, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani is renowned for his keen focus on design. While our discussions with him at MONOCHROME typically revolve around watches, this exceptionally versatile designer harbours various talents. The announcement of Bulgari’s collaboration with cult video game Gran Turismo provided the opportunity to unveil not […]
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SJX Watches
The Polerouter. By Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi. Time Honoured Ltd. £225. A timepiece intertwined with the allure of pioneering trans-polar flights flown by Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), the Universal Genève Polerouter is a symbol of 1950s glamour and adventure. Ardent Polerouter enthusiasts Andrew Willis and Mattia Mazzucchi embarked on a collaborative journey four years ago on comprehensive book dedicated to the iconic watch, aptly titled The Polerouter. The book delves into the fascinating world of the Polerouter, a timepiece fondly regarded by many in the world of vintage watches. This is demonstrated in the forewords written by individuals like John Goldberger, author and collector; Virginie Liatard-Roessli, watch specialist at Phillips; and Alessandro Fanciulli, a well-known social media figure and dealer better known as “Mr A”. The authors themselves, however, are scholars but amateurs – Mr Willis is a mathematician while Mr Mazzucchi is a nautical interior designer. The narrative unfolds across various chapters, each dedicated to a specific model, highlighting key milestones in the Polerouter’s evolution. Across almost 400 pages, the authors meticulously document each model’s distinct characteristics, from the SAS Polarouter to the Polerouter Sub. The information unfolds chronologically, beginning with the SAS Polarouter and systematically exploring each Polerouter model. Notably, the book intentionally omits esoteric models such as the P...
Monochrome
Picture this: the days are getting shorter, nights are getting longer, the temperature is dropping, and it’s snowing for days on end. As you gaze outside to admire the snow-covered landscape, you notice the windows are frosted over. Ice crystals have formed on the edges of the thin transparent barrier that keeps the warmth in […]
Hodinkee
A one-for-one reissue of a vintage favorite slims the Antarctic down to original proportions. We got our hands on both to pick a favorite.
Worn & Wound
I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...
Time+Tide
Throughout history, it’s generally been assumed that something is worth more when it’s in better condition. But just as pre-ripped jeans found their popularity in the 1970s, it’s becoming more and more common to prefer things aged. Well-weathered objects tell a story, and whether or not you think it’s cheating to replicate that look artificially, … ContinuedThe post How does a watch dial turn tropical? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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