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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Cartier Announces Special Services for All Pasha Owners
Having just unveiled the new-and-improved Pasha de Cartier in April, the Parisian jeweller has just announced an unusually generous suite of complimentary services for the owners of any Pasha watch – “regardless of the model and year of purchase” – anywhere in the world. An example of a Pasha from 1985, which would also be eligible for this offer Conceived to be part of the promotional activities for the new line, this impressive initiative covers two key amenities: servicing and personalisation. Any Pasha wristwatch can be taken to a Cartier boutique for a diagnosis and complimentary servicing. After servicing, the watch will also benefit from the standard post-servicing guarantee. Engraved initials on the recently-launched Pasha de Cartier At the same time, a Pasha wristwatch can be personalised with an engraving of the owner’s initials, either on the case back or on the side of the case under the chain that links the crown cap to the case. Cartier has not revealed how long these services will remain complimentary, but presumably not forever, so it would be prudent to make use of the offer sooner rather than later. For more, visit Cartier.com.
Revolution
By Royal Appointment: The Tudor Royal
Tudor launches the Tudor Royal, a watch that’s deeply rooted in the Wilsdorf household and one which seems to be turning a lot of heads.
SJX Watches
Hermès Introduces the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater
English artist Alice Shirley has been creating illustrations for Hermès to reproduce on its scarves since 2012. Typically imaginative motifs of flora and fauna, two of Ms Shirley’s illustrations have made their way onto Hermès wristwatches. And now the Parisian leatherwoods maker has just revealed the third, and most impressive, instalment of this crossover – the Arceau Pocket Aaaaargh! Minute Repeater. A pocket watch boasting a minute repeater and tourbillon, the Aaaaargh! is decorated in leather mosaic and marquetry – and a very large eyeball in grand feu enamel. It’s named after the sound a Tyrannosaurus rex presumably made, and continues the phonetic naming conventions of Ms Shirley’s earlier watches, which were the Slim Hermès Grrrrr! with a bear motif and the Arceau Awooooo featuring a howling wolf. Initial thoughts Unlike the previous two Alice Shirley watches that were time-only, the Tyrannosaurus is a pocket watch – unusual in itself – and also combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. In addition to the complicated mechanics, the motif is executed more elaborately than on the earlier watches, which admittedly were substantially more affordable, most notably with the three-dimensional enamel eye and intricate leather inlays. The result is an intriguing, fun, and imaginative watch that is very much in keeping with Hermès’ quirky, elegant, and expensive house style. Compared to the typically safe and practical high-end complication, the Arceau...
Time+Tide
Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen
Well, it’s taken six years, but today a dream comes true. I am thrilled beyond measure to announce that former GQ Australia Editor, and recent Geneva Watch Days collaborator, Mike Christensen is joining the team as European Editor – Time+Tide is coming to London! The London-based role vanquishes the tyranny of distance and sees Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post Good morning, London! Time and Tide Watches opens first international office in the UK, to be run by former GQ Australia Editor, Mike Christensen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Best NEW $1200 Dive Watch? A Future Classic: Squale 30ATMOS Review
SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920
Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...
Quill & Pad
Beauregard Dahlia And Lili: Opening Like A Flower
Elizabeth Doerr has not seen a watch by Alexandre Beauregard’s little firm that she hasn’t immediately fallen in love with. The Dahlia with its central flying tourbillon movement and hand-carved stone petals is just perfect. And along comes the more affordable, rectangular Lili. Flowers have rarely looked so good!
Time+Tide
Why big men look “stunning” in small watches, starring the Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, the ‘King’ Lebron James and Audemars Piguet
The conversation kicked off with a comment by watch collector and dealer Eric Ku in the most recent Watch & Chill episode (skip to the timecode in the description). “I was obsessively watching this show Ballers… with the Rock. In this last season, [he] was wearing the purple Frosted Gold Royal Oak chrono. I distinctly remember him … ContinuedThe post Why big men look “stunning” in small watches, starring the Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson, the ‘King’ Lebron James and Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai
The second week of September saw one of the few large-scale watch fairs of the year take place by the Huangpu River in Shanghai. With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing the cancellation of the world’s two most important watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH (as well as the permanent demise of Baselworld), Watches & Wonders Shanghai (W&W;) was staged at the West Bund Art Center. As a watch journalist, I used to fly to Switzerland twice a year for the fairs – SIHH in January followed by Baselworld around March – but this year the event came to my home city for the first time. Did W&W; live up to expectations? How has the event changed as it crossed the world? Green and good to go The difference between W&W; and the traditional Swiss fairs was apparent from the point of entry. Guests and journalists were no longer granted access with pass cards, the norm at the Swiss fairs since I can remember. Instead we received an invite email from the fair’s organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) prior to the event, requiring us to register online for a QR entry code. Security staff at the fair’s entrance scanned every visitor’s QR code, as well as our Suishen Code, a digital pass issued by the city authorities. Both an identification and health pass, the Suishen Code has allowed the government to combat the pandemic with rigorous efficiency; every city or province in China has its own health code – the primary reason why a watch fair with hundreds of visitors can take place...
Deployant
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer – Limited Edition: hands-on review
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer was first released in Baselworld 2009 with two versions – white and rose gold with silver dials. In Baselworld 2016, the watch was updated with a blue in-house manufactured dial. The 2020 version now comes with a new case design, noticeably the bezel and a differently finished movement.
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This Less Known Omega Watch is a Bargain | Watchfinder & Co.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon
Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration. Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph
Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tudor Royal Collection
A sporty steel watch with integrated bracelet, headlined by a killer day and date version.
Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases
Lightning sometimes strikes [the same channel] twice. This time last week, we brought you one of the most scholarly and in-depth conversations I’ve ever been privy to in my time as a watch journalist, in the form of a video in our Watch & Chill series over on our YouTube channel. The main speakers were … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Patek Philippe extends its family of pilot-style watches – Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G: hands-on review
Patek Philippe extends its family of pilot-style watches with the new Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, rounding up the watch family which is inspired by the manufacture’s aviator's watches from the 1930s.
Video
Seiko SPB051 Review - A Modern 62MAS Dive Watch - Big Hit Or Miss?
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum
Best known as the watch worn by Pierce Brosnan playing James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M made its debut in 1993. But the blue-on-blue “Bond” model was not the flagship of the line. That distinction went to a chronograph composed of three metals – gold, titanium, and tantalum – an exotic and expensive combination two decades ago. The tri-metal combination (the original was the ref. 2296.80 for anyone curious) made a comeback as a time-only watch for the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster 300 M two years ago. Now, Omega has finally revealed a truer homage to the original, the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum, which stays to the aesthetics of its inspiration but refined to be more contemporary and technically advanced. Initial thoughts The original version of the tri-metal chronograph isn’t the best known variant of the Seamaster – because it was extremely expensive for the period and sold poorly – so when the time-only variant debuted in 2018, the combination of metal was rather novel. The new chronograph feels exactly like that – it is handsome and modern, but like the 1993 original, it is very expensive. In fact, it is a lot more expensive, all things considered. Priced at a little under US$20,000, the new chronograph is significantly more expensive than its steel-and-gold counterparts – by a factor of 50%. While the price tag partially justified by the unusual material combination and good looks, the new Seamaster Chr...
Revolution
Available Now: Introducing The UNDONE Aero Scientific 1940 for The Rake & Revolution
The UNDONE Aero Scientific 1940 pays tribute to the Weems Second Setting watch with a vintage-inspired affordable edition true to the original timepiece.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in its first iteration, ref 5524G-001 definitely caught our attention when it was released. We called it the most confusing watch of Baselworld 2015. Patek Philippe had anticipated the sceptical reaction, and the opening line of their press release about the watch sought to quickly legitimise it – referring to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune: The World’s Best Dry Riesling
The jewel in the Trimbach crown is Clos Sainte Hune. From Alsace, France, Ken Gargett is sure it is quite simply the greatest expression of dry Riesling on the planet.
Deployant
H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds – live pics and hands-on review
The Moser Streamliner Center Seconds was announced in August 26, 2020 as the second model in Moser’s entry into the bewildering world of the stainless steel luxury sports watch with integrated bracelet. We get up close and hands-on with the new watch, and give you our thoughts. H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds Release information. H.Read More
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£1,000 Fake Rolex vs £1,000 Real Swiss Watch | Watchfinder & Co.
Revolution
The Panerai Luminor Marina: Enduring Classics
How a watch from the annals of military history-and a brand that embodies Italian swagger-redefined “cool” for a new generation of collectors.
Quill & Pad
Sarpaneva x Moomin: Stepan Sarpaneva Celebrates 75 Years Of Moomin With This Scandinavian Fantasy For The Wrist
The Moomin universe was created by the late Swedish-speaking Finn Tove Jansson. It comprises a microcosm of Jansson’s fairytale version of Scandinavia thrown in a blender with Roald Dahl and a sprinkling of J.R.R. Tolkien. And that’s all present in the Sarpaneva x Moomin watch honoring the 75th anniversary of Jansson’s highly successful book, 'The Moomins and the Great Flood.' This watch has a secret, though. Find it here!
Deployant
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Orange – a new colour for the square diver
Bell & Ross introduces a bright new orange colourway for their popular square diver – the BR 03-02 Diver Orange. Press Release Bell & Ross – the ultimate reference in the world of professional aviation watches – is constantly striving for excellence. Each watch is designed in harmony with the context in which itRead More
SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton
A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black. Initial thoughts Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux? The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is. And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value. Restrained style Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch. An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock. It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is ma...
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Colour My World – Six Watches with a Coloured Case to Add Into A Collection, From Our Archives
Last week, we covered six watches with a vibrantly coloured dial to add into a watch collection. This week, we decided to take it up a notch. Instead of looking just at coloured dials, we will be focusing on watches with a coloured case instead. This means that instead of the usual case variants, weRead More
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