3,641 articles · 18 videos found · page 68 of 122
Time+Tide
A smaller case size and a proper steel bracelet adds to this diver's already-insane value proposition.The post Longines’ cult-favourite Legend Diver has received a period-correct makeover appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming auction in Hong Kong begins on November 24 and as is now convention, the sale includes a diverse selection of independent watchmaking. Among the highlights in the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is the F.P. Journe Coffret 38 – the collection of five watches with 38 mm steel cases made to mark the discontinuation of the brand’s historic case size. Each model in the set is significant in François-Paul Journe’s horological ascent, from the groundbreaking Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite to the meticulously no-frills Chronomètre Optimum, and here each watch is (relatively) accessible and sold as an individual lot. The auction features creations from other notable watchmakers in every price range, including Daniel Roth, Habring², Voutilainen, and a Harry Winston developed by Greubel Forsey. These watches invite exploration into the history and future of watchmaking, and some tell stories of craftsmanship and innovation that captivate. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII is scheduled for November 24 and 25. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain I in the sale is the second to be sold publicly in as many auction seasons Lots 815-819: F.P. Journe Coffret 38 set of steel watches In 1991, François-Paul Journe introduced his first wristwatch that had a platinum case 38 mm in diameter – large enough to be unheard of at the time. In comparison, the Patek Philippe ref. 5004 split-...
Quill & Pad
Urwerk has just released the UR-230 Eagle. It features a CTP carbon case fitted with a hinged cover, aerodynamic lines, a slimmer profile and the stylized form of a bird of prey, dual variable-geometry turbine, double shock absorber and a hybrid winding system.
SJX Watches
MB&F; has introduced its latest Horological Machine, the HM11 Architect, inspired by 1960s futurist architecture. Featuring a central flying tourbillon surrounded by four polished titanium lobes, three of which contain dials, the HM11 offers a novel rotating case that pulls double duty as an enormous winding crown. Designed by longtime collaborator Eric Giroud, the HM11 takes cues from habitology, an architectural movement of the late 1960s that challenged conventional norms for domestic buildings, preferring organic forms to straight walls and rectangular windows. Initial thoughts As someone who favours traditional design, I usually find Horological Machines a tad large and a bit ostentatious. But the HM11 is more compact and sleeker than its specs suggest. In fact, the HM11 is the most traditional Horological Machine yet on the wrist, with a round 42 mm case and simple lugs. It has a surprisingly small footprint on the wrist, though it is tall, standing 23 mm at its highest, so it’s not for the faint of heart (or the long-sleeved). Yet even by the sculptural standards set by previous Horological Machines, the HM11 feels ambitious, particularly in the case construction. The complex form of the case, for example, requires 19 gaskets to ensure 20 m of water resistance. There are also numerous hidden details, like a proprietary shock dampening system adapted from the aerospace industry, that contribute to an overall package that is deeply satisfying; the longer you look...
SJX Watches
Having introduced the ZM 1 and ZM 2 wristwatches in 2018, Leica now launches its first sports watch with ZM 11. Deviating entirely from the camera-inspired aesthetics of the earlier models, the ZM 11 is a straightforward three-hander in a minimalist style with an integrated bracelet (or strap). But like its predecessors, the ZM 11 is equipped with a movement made by a specialist, in this case Chronode. Initial thoughts On its face, the ZM 11 comes across as uninspiring at first, appearing similar to many current luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets. But on closer inspection it reveals interesting details, including a nicely finished case and bracelet with facetted, brushed surfaces. Also notable is the quick-release mechanism for the bracelet that’s activated by a red button, a reference to Leica cameras. The red button aside, however, the design doesn’t capture the essence of a Leica camera as the earlier ZM 1 and ZM 2 did. The earlier pair incorporated camera-inspired details into functional elements, like a patented “push-piece” crown that mimics the push of a shutter-release button. While the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are arguably Leica watches, the ZM 11 feels more like a Leica-branded watch. Priced around US$7,000 for the base model, the ZM 11 is competitively priced as far as integrated-bracelet sports watches go. The IWC Ingenieur, for instance, is about 40% pricier. However, such sports watches are generally priced at a premium relatively to everything else...
Time+Tide
Tri-stepped case, pump pushers and a pulsometer scales - all the ingredients for a great vintage-inspired chronograph are there.The post The Arsène Lippens Visionario references your grail 1940s chronographs, with an unexpected movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ball outfits their vintage-inspired Skindiver with an in-house calibre and a super-hard case coating.The post Take a dark plunge with the Ball Engineer II Skindiver Heritage Manufacture Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After shading the Aqua Terra Worldtimer line in greys and greens, Omega debuts the Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT “Dark Grey”. A new take on its dive-ready GMT, the watch is named after the dark grey ceramic case, which harnesses the material’s hardness while staying lightweight thanks to the extensive use of titanium for its internals, including the movement bridges. Initial thoughts Titanium and ceramic are not noteworthy in themselves, but here the materials are combined in an interesting and functional manner. The scratch resistance of ceramic is useful for the case, while the titanium inner components keep the weight down, a helpful characteristic for a big watch. And the materials also create a shades-of-grey appearance that gives the watch a sense of seriousness – with the orange accents bringing some tasteful contrast – though it is less stark compared to its all-black ceramic sibling. Thought lighter than usual for a watch of its size, the new GMT is a big watch measuring 45.5 mm in diameter, making it quite a bit bigger than comparable watches from Tudor for instance. It would be more wearable and have a wider appealing if the case was in the range of 41 mm to 42 mm. Despite its material attractions, however, the GMT “Dark Grey” is expensive at US$22,200. It is almost twice as expensive as the same model in black ceramic (that admittedly doesn’t have a titanium movement). Despite the titanium components, the price is hard to justify since it i...
Deployant
For the 2023 season, Speake Marin expands their Openworked collection with four new references (2 case sizes) in titanium and red gold.
Quill & Pad
It was not until 2015 that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly, as for him the combination of the yellow gold case and sunburst-brushed brown dial is as gorgeous as it is unexpected.
SJX Watches
Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...
SJX Watches
Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...
Quill & Pad
The Urwerk UR-120 is a thematic update for the UR-110 using what appears to be a very similar mechanism and dial layout. Even the case is generally the same. But while at first glance it shares much with the UR-110 in essence, when you start to compare the two this is a dramatically different watch, in particular when it gives you the Vulcan salute!
Quill & Pad
The Zenith Defy Skyline is loosely based around the historical Defy, which had a faceted bezel (arguably the very first octagonal steel sports watch in 1969), but the Skyline switches it up to a dodecagon (12-sided polygon) and a bolder case silhouette. And this is not the only reason Joshua Munchow is so enamored.
Deployant
The Tissot Sideral S is yet another win for Tissot. It is a refreshing addition to the dominant PRX line, and the more predictable heritage line of classic 3 hands and 'large' Valjoux chronographs. The tonneau case itself is quite fun to see in Tissot's product mix of non-circle cases, and even better with forged carbon. The watch is a good size and highly wearable, lightweight compared to any steel, steel bracelet watches, and 300m water resistant for the occasional swimmers. For those who want something less colorful, a regular black strap or black OEM rubber strap will make the watch much more stealthy. The forged carbon is matte finished, and not as contrasting unless under bright sunlight. The colorful lume is also mostly muted. At least for the red version with the grey ring, the watch can be very muted when not on the red strap, which is the primary reason why I chose the red model. The watches are priced at US$995 before tax.
Time+Tide
With a water-resistant case and brawny proportions, Breguet's sportiest watch gets a haute horlogerie upgrade.The post Breguet’s Marine Tourbillon 5577 is a sporty tribute to the founder’s famous complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
What makes the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph so pleasing is that it offers everything we have come to expect from the Aquaracer collection and more. It comes in a stainless steel case with matte black DLC coating and some extra-special lume to illustrate its sun-loving movement.
Time+Tide
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey debuts a new silicon nitride ceramic [Si3N4] case and a titanium variant of their in-house 8906 movement.The post The new Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey removes weight, but does it add value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Well before A. Lange & Söhne debuted the entirely classical Richard Lange Minute Repeater a year ago, the brand’s flagship striking watch was a Zeitwerk. Available in white gold or platinum before, the digital chiming watch now returns in a warmer metal as the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater Honeygold. While remaining the same mechanically, the new repeater strikes a different tone according to the brand because of the case metal, a gold alloy slightly harder than conventional gold that is exclusive to Lange. Initial thoughts The new Zeitwerk repeater is more appealing than its predecessors in my eyes just because I like the gold-and-grey combination. The platinum model was monochromatic while the blue dial on the white gold model felt too modern for the watch. The movement remains exactly the same as before, which means it’s the same impressively complicated calibre that has the usual Zeitwerk features like a constant force mechanism, as well as the added complexity of an unusually constructed minute repeater with various safety mechanisms catered to the digital display. But one aspect of the new repeater is interesting, and that’s the case metal. I’ve yet to hear the watch in person, but Lange’s product development head, Anthony de Haas, is quoted as saying the new repeater “in honey gold… sounds different to all other materials ‒ truly distinctive.” Given the significant increase in hardness of honey gold relative to ordinary 18k gold, that sounds credible. ...
SJX Watches
The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold. This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case. The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...
Deployant
Chronoswiss celebrates its 40th Anniversary with the addition of two new models to their Opus model, both in titanium case with skeletonised dials.
SJX Watches
British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...
Time+Tide
From case pushers to bracelet clasp, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is a bit of a light(weight) show.The post The many facets of the Hublot Chronograph Orlinski Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A salmon dial, platinum case, and bi-retrograde complication of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is Vacheron Constantin's subtle take on the recent phenomenon.The post The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is vying for the stealth-wealth crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Sheffield First up this week is a sweet vintage Sheffield “panda” dial chronograph. This gem has a 38mm chrome plated case that is in great shape, with almost no pitting and nice sharp edges. The dial is silver with black sub dials, and it looks fantastic, with clean steel stick hands and a bright orange chronograph seconds hand. This one is powered by the ubiquitous work horse Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. Vintage chronographs are highly sought after, and “no-name” examples like this Sheffield can go for a very reasonable price, even with a well made and well known movement like the Valjoux 7733. Great chance to get a nice vintage chronograph without breaking the bank. View auction here. Vintage Wittnauer Here’s a gorgeous vintage Wittnauer with an amazing dial. The simple white dial has super cool faceted applied steel hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12, with no date, and simple little dots for the minutes. Big lume filled steel dauphine hands compliment the look. The 33.5mm steel case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and stylish curved lugs. The original crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo. The manual w...
Worn & Wound
Fears continues to expand their classic Brunswick collection with the release of two new references: one of which brings their beautiful copper salmon dial to the 40mm case, and another called Aurora, which subverts expectations around mother of pearl dials. The new watches follow the brand’s subtle yet distinctive design language, feeling familiar yet new at the same time. Mother of pearl likely elicits a very specific reaction, but Fears looks to change that with the new Aurora, placing it within more neutral territory, accessible to both masculine and feminine sensibilities. While I’m not sure that this will become a trend, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen this material used in unexpected ways. Oris has found creative ways to bring this treatment to their Aquis, and even Formex has used it in their Essence 39. In both instances, the mother of pearl element is given an accent color, and it’s the same case with this new Brunswick from Fears. There are blue tones at work on multiple levels of the dial, creating a slight deviation between the outer and inner portions. Mother of pearl is a dynamic material that shifts in appearance quite easily, from any angle, and in any light. It’s the perfect expression of a similar phenomenon, the aurora (borealis in the north, australis in the south), an ever changing interaction between the solar wind and the earth’s magnetosphere. Each brings a quality that’s difficult to capture in a moment, or describe in words...
Worn & Wound
If you’re a fan of IWC pilot watches, you’ve no doubt participated in one of this cohort’s favorite activities, which is armchair quarterbacking the specifics of each release. We’ve gotten to a point where there are so many case sizes, complications, and case materials in the collection that the moment a new watch is announced, there’s a cry on the internet for that exact thing but tweaked, somehow, to more closely resemble another watch the brand makes. This is especially true with IWC’s ceramic cased pilot watches, which tend to be rather large and drive more than their share of “If only it was __mm” comments on Instagram. Earlier this year, in the midst of Ingy-fever, IWC quietly released a very nice 41mm chronograph in blue ceramic. It got some of us thinking: will more ceramic color options come to this Goldilocks sized case that everyone (myself very much included) seems to love? The answer, of course, is yes. This week, IWC revealed a watch that many collectors have been hoping for for quite some time, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. The brown “Mojave” case is meant to look like desert sand, and has been a favorite when executed as a perpetual calendar and Big Pilot. It was also, first, a chronograph, which made its debut back in 2019 in the same 44.5mm case later occupied by the Tahoe and Woodland versions of the chrono. It’s certainly the brand’s most unique ceramic colorway, and I have a feeling the news of this...
Worn & Wound
One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. The post The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretati...
SJX Watches
After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1. Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...
Quill & Pad
While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.