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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Rolex Introduces the All-Gold Deepsea Ref. 136668 LB SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 13, 2024

Rolex Introduces the All-Gold Deepsea Ref. 136668 LB

Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold  The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...

First Look – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Apr 12, 2024

First Look – The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT Tokyo Lion SBGC275

In the previous year, Grand Seiko introduced the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, showcasing a bold case design and distinctive dial texture, thus enhancing the brand’s Sport collection with the permanent addition. This followed the anticipation stirred by limited edition models SBGC230 and SGBC231 in 2019, along with the red gold cased SGBC238, launched in […]

Introducing – The New And Limited Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions Monochrome
Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Apr 12, 2024

Introducing – The New And Limited Piaget Polo Date 150th Anniversary Editions

Yves G. Piaget, the fourth generation of the Piaget watchmaking and jewellery dynasty, launched the sporty-chic Polo watch in 1979. With its ultra-thin gold case and sleek bracelet decorated with horizontal gadroons, the Polo captured the era’s zeitgeist to become a massive hit. In 2016, Piaget gave the Polo a complete makeover, transforming it into […]

Introducing – The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic Monochrome
Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic Apr 12, 2024

Introducing – The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic

Once upon a time, Alpina clearly demarcated between its Alpiner collection geared for land adventures and its Seastrong models designed for underwater exploration. In 2022, Alpina beefed up its Alpiner sports watch with a powerful 200m water-resistant Extreme case with new embossed dial textures. Today, the brand fuses the distinctive Extreme cushion-shaped case with the […]

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind Flies in the Face of Convention

Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 11, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Returns to the Classic Joker

ACHI member Konstantin Chaykin unveils his newest timepiece, the Joker Classic. Part of the Wristmon collection, the new Joker reverts to the original design of 2017 but boasts a case downsized to 40 mm and more notably a new movement.  Initial thoughts The Joker, as introduced back in 2017, is a very quirky timepiece, not necessary suited to a wide range of tastes. The anthropomorphic dial is as striking today as it was then, with a niche appeal. Nonetheless, the timepiece was very well received – the original 99 pieces were sold out quickly.  Since then there were some special editions based on the Joker concept, but most had their own peculiarities, mostly departing from the pure 2017 design. The Joker Classic remains exotic as ever, but feels like a return to the timepiece’s roots – complete with some embellishments and concessions to the modern industry standards.  Priced at CHF16,900, the Joker Classic is amongst the more affordable of the Wristmon models. Like the original, it is a good value proposition given its distinctive design and high level of in-house manufacturing, despite the outsourced base movement. A familiar face The Joker Classic features the trademark white dial, made to resemble a smiling face. The regulator-like separated hours and minutes indicators make up the eyes, while the open grinning mouth reveals a cheeky moon phase complication. The Joker Classic is offered in two versions: the traditional color scheme of the original Joker (whit...

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel

The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon During Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Return of the Duometre, with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon

During the 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre welcomes back the Duometre, one of its most technical, high-end collections. Thanks to the development of the new calibre 391, the Duometre Chronograph Moon combines a high-precision chronograph with a celestial complication. Further evolutions regarding the case and dial mark this model as one of the […]

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References Worn & Wound
Montblanc Expands Apr 10, 2024

Montblanc Expands the Iced Sea Automatic Collection with Two New References

The Montblanc Iced Sea Automatic Date collection, already notable for its unique glacial-inspired aesthetics, welcomes two new additions to its line-up: Bronze and Burgundy. Both models expand upon the Iced Sea collection to bring a moodier, more sophisticated look. The first of these, Bronze, marries a black glacier pattern dial with a bronze-tone case, a nod to the golden hues of dusk over frosty terrains. This reference stands out with its use of cupro aluminum for the case – a unique alloy that surpasses traditional bronze in resistance to wear and corrosion, promising durability while aging gracefully into a charming patina. It also introduces a bi-color unidirectional bezel, a new logo reflecting Montblanc’s heritage, and a titanium caseback adorned with a scuba diver motif, all complemented by a versatile black rubber strap with a brown accent. The Burgundy model, on the other hand, captures the deep reds of evening light on ice, paired with a black ceramic bezel. It comes with an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, ensuring a perfect fit for the wearer. Both models exhibit the meticulous craftsmanship Montblanc is known for, utilizing a special gratté-boisé technique for the dials to create an impression of depth and luminosity, while the casebacks feature detailed 3D engravings achieved through precise laser work. Each model’s case comes in at 41mm, accompanied by a sapphire crystal and equipped with an MB 24.17/SW200 automatic movement that promises...

Introducing – Grand Seiko Revisits its 1960 Icon with the SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo Monochrome
Grand Seiko Revisits Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – Grand Seiko Revisits its 1960 Icon with the SBGW314 Hoshizukiyo

In 1960, a team of Seiko engineers produced a watch that encapsulated precision, durability, refined execution and beauty. Launched in a 35mm yellow gold case with a slim, chronometer-rated movement, the specifications of the new watch were so well calibrated that it was christened the Grand Seiko. Celebrating Grand Seiko’s official independence from Seiko in […]

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models

At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K SJX Watches
Breitling Apr 10, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K

In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Back The 1969 Original Monochrome
Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Brings Back The 1969 Original

1969 was a milestone year for Zenith watches with the brand’s launch of the world’s first high-frequency automatic chronograph movement. Although the El Primero stole the headlines, it was not the only model Zenith had up its sleeve. With slightly less fanfare, Zenith also launched its heavy-duty Defy family with its angular octagonal case, crazy […]

First Look – The Lush Green Dial of the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley Monochrome
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The Lush Green Dial of the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH021 Genbi Valley

Grand Seiko has won over legions of admirers for its wonderful textured dials that recreate elements of Japanese nature. With its sophisticated Hi-Beat movement, elegant case responding to the latest design evolution, and gorgeous green textured dial, the new SLGH021 Genbi Valley is going to fly off the shelves. In 2020, Grand Seiko introduced the […]

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power Monochrome
Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Apr 9, 2024

First Look – The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, With 14 Days of Power

The Big Bang MP-11’s impressive 14-day power reserve, derived from seven series-coupled and horizontally arranged barrels, has been a staple at Hublot since 2018. Using a sapphire crystal case to house the HUB9011 movement isn’t entirely novel (one of the inaugural models featured this). Still, it’s hard to overlook the allure of the latest iteration […]

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Jaw-Dropping A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen

The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” is the indisputable highlight of A. Lange & Söhne’s novelties for Watches and Wonders 2024. Pulling out its big guns at Watches & Wonders, Lange has treated its über-complex flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon cocktail to an exclusive Honeygold case and, for the cherry on top, a luminous […]

Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists

The long-awaited, thinner take on the Black Bay GMT is finally here in all its Bakelite-like glory. The case slims down to an impressive 12.8mm in height, retaining the Black Bay 58’s 39mm diameter. The watch is available on either a rubber strap or riveted three-link bracelet. Pretty much as soon as the Tudor Black … ContinuedThe post Hallelujah! The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT finally exists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 Time+Tide
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Rolex’s dressiest Apr 9, 2024

Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908

Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible. The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel. It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle. Fans of … ContinuedThe post Nothing stealth wealth about the new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – The New Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold with a Slate Ombré Dial Monochrome
Rolex Day-Date 40 Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The New Rolex Day-Date 40 in Everose Gold with a Slate Ombré Dial

Rolex is broadening its higher-end collection with the addition to the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 collection of an ombré slate dial within the line-up (understand a gradient toned dial). Notably, Rolex ombré dials were previously exclusive to the Day-Date 36. This new reference introduces another first: faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and index hour markers in […]

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink Fratello
Gerald Charles Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink arrives just in time for Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s a modern take on Gerald Genta’s famous Maestro case paired with an integrated bracelet. There’s no mistaking this watch for anything but a Genta-inspired design, yet it’s a thoughtful and new evolution. Last November, I had the opportunity to attend […] Visit Introducing: The Gerald Charles Masterlink to read the full article.

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver SJX Watches
Zenith Revives Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver

Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline Chronograph

Amidst the plethora of sports watches with integrated bracelets, the Zenith Defy Skyline stands out for its uncluttered design and relative affordability. Now the lineup is joined by the Defy Skyline Chronograph. The chronograph maintains many of the signature features of the existing models, such as its octagonal case and star-patterned dial. Debuting in three dial colours, Defy chronograph is amongst Zenith’s sportier offerings. Like other recent launches, it is powered by the second-generation El Primero calibre. Initial thoughts The Defy Skyline Chronograph is another option for an enthusiasts seeking a sports chronograph with a contemporary design and integrated bracelet. There are admittedly many, many options in this category, but the Defy chronograph is one of the value-minded offerings. At CHF11,900, the Defy chronograph with its in-house movement is competitively priced compared to other offerings in the sports watch market. The brand has opted for a conservative design while retaining a modern edge. Though the overall design is familiar, it has incorporates a few unusual details, including a polygonal flange around the dial. The watch is being launched in only three colours, all simple, easy shades that are well suited to the design, though not exciting. With the limited colours in mind, some might want to wait for subsequent releases that may adopt the colours found in its time-only counterpart. Zenith’s latest addition The Defy chronograph joins Zenith’...

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Fratello
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar One Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph Fratello
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Apr 9, 2024

The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph

You might have to look twice, but you’re looking at the updated IWC Portugieser Automatic 42. These models have a completely re-engineered case construction with a more slender side profile. The bezel-less watches feature double-domed box-style glass sapphire crystals for unobstructed views of the sunburst dials or the versions finished with 15 layers of transparent […] Visit The Refined And Reworked IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 - Plus New Dial Colors For The Portugieser Automatic 40 And Chronograph to read the full article.