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Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? Time+Tide
Oris ing Feb 25, 2021

Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category?

The watch industry’s persistent categorising of watches by gender is back on the agenda. And well and truly in frame is the pointlessness of the “women’s watch” category.  But, speaking personally here, I’m not one to let a category push me around. I really don’t count labelling for men and women as being told what … ContinuedThe post Women do not need permission to buy men’s watches, so who cares about the category? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER Time+Tide
Feb 25, 2021

INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER

Johnny Dowell, a.k.a King Nerd – who was one of our Londoners featured recently in a series by European Editor Mike Christensen – is a watch customizer with a very sharp point of difference. He is an engraver, and applies his craft to watches, among other things – it’s a world of traditional craftsmanship you wouldn’t … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A duo of disruptors mount up in the King Nerd x G-Shock GM-6900GKING-9ER appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes Feb 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global

One of the biggest complaints about the Grand Seiko ‘Four Seasons’ collection had nothing to do with the watches themselves, but the fact that they were only available to the US market. Their nature-inspired dials were lauded for their colour and texture, making the international market envious of what was available in the States. Today … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection goes global appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rapper Jack Harlow can’t live without his Rolex Sky-Dweller (and we can see why) Time+Tide
Rolex Sky-Dweller Feb 24, 2021

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rapper Jack Harlow can’t live without his Rolex Sky-Dweller (and we can see why)

Jack Harlow is only 22, but he’s already got the world at his feet and a Rolex Sky-Dweller he’s deeply in love with. Last year, the Kentucky rapper broke into popular consciousness when his track Whats Poppin hit number two on the US Billboard Hot 100 (at the time of writing it’s had more than … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Rapper Jack Harlow can’t live without his Rolex Sky-Dweller (and we can see why) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke Time+Tide
Patek Philippe s decision Feb 24, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke

Many of us, myself included, have the 5711 steel Nautilus cemented onto our watch grail wish-list. Now, the infamous eight year waiting-list you’d have to endure after ordering one is no more. Patek Philippe’s top selling reference is being discontinued, and many a collector on an exclusive AD list will return to square one, with … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why Patek Philippe’s decision to kill their most popular product is a business masterstroke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How did thieves use Instagram to steal €150,000 of watches and other luxury goods? Time+Tide
Feb 23, 2021

How did thieves use Instagram to steal €150,000 of watches and other luxury goods?

We all love Instagram, right? Especially for the watch community, the Facebook-owned social media app is an integral hub that connects horological enthusiasts around the world. But what if Instagram was making you a target for robbery? That was exactly what allegedly happened in Milan with a gang of four nicknamed the “acrobat thieves” who … ContinuedThe post How did thieves use Instagram to steal €150,000 of watches and other luxury goods? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behind The Lens: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Ref 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph Feb 21, 2021

Behind The Lens: Patek Philippe Ref. 5950A-001 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Given GaryG's musings on these pages about the relative roles of rarity and complication in driving the value of a watch, he thinks it appropriate to dedicate this “Behind the Lens” entry to a piece that is both complicated and limited in production: Patek Philippe’s Reference 5950A. What’s so special about this watch? Well, first of all it’s a split-seconds chronograph. What else?

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” When Feb 19, 2021

Living With: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

When Zenith first took the covers off the Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” in the middle of last year, my immediate reaction was “That’s a super cool-looking watch.” Unlike its fellow remakes like the A384 and A386, or the more recent A385, the Shadow isn’t a replica of an actual vintage watch Zenith produced in its heyday before the Quartz Crisis. While the Shadow was inspired by a 1970 prototype with a black-coated case that never made it into production, the Shadow is very much a modern design. It imagines what a vintage A384 might have been, had it been released in all-black livery in the 1970s. Compared to Zenith’s recent vintage-inspired watches, most of which are faithful remakes, the Shadow is a breath of fresh air. So when Zenith offered the chance for me to spend a couple of days with the watch, I seized it. The El Primero A384 Revival that’s a faithful remake of the vintage original Initial thoughts I had a visceral reaction when I first strapped on the Shadow: my heart sang, and a smile crept onto my face. I was struck by how different it looked on the wrist; distinct not only from the other El Primero chronographs, but against other offerings at the same price point. In fact, it looked to me more like a Bamford collaboration rather than a standard model. On the wrist, the Shadow stands out in a subtle but striking manner, especially to a watch enthusiast. Anyone who knows Zenith will understand that’s an A384, but different. Reductive desig...

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGR053 – Feb 16, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago?

Now I wholeheartedly confess to being a die-hard Seiko fan with two of the dearest favourites in my watch box being my inky black delight – Grand Seiko SBGR053 – and my limited edition Baby Marinemaster. The latter one is pertinent to this article as one of the many “inspired by” 62MAS heritage reissues from … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Did Seiko quietly kickstart the massive heritage trend 21 years ago? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium Feb 16, 2021

Longines Introduces Avigation BigEye Titanium

When Longines first remade a 1970s pilot’s chronograph as the Avigation BigEye Chronograph, it was well received for being a faithful re-interpretation priced affordably, as most other Longines reissues are. While the 2017 model was a dead ringer for the vintage original, Longines has just facelifted the watch, giving it a titanium case and gradient blue dial. That gives the Avigation BigEye Titanium more modern look, which along with the upgraded case, results in a steeper price that’s about a quarter more than that of the steel model. Initial thoughts Longines has been hitting it out of the park with its recent remakes – the Silver Arrow, Classic “Tuxedo” Chronograph, and Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial – that are smartly designed and good value, and despite the hike in price, BigEye Titanium is no exception. While the steel BigEye had a utilitarian look like the 1970s original, the titanium version is decidedly more contemporary. The gradient blue dial is bold, and also fashionable today, with a sandblasted texture adding further visual intrigue. I like the juxtaposition of the black sub-dials against the blue gradient finish, though the faux patina on the hands and indices might be a bit too affected, especially with the modern look. Despite the tweaks, the BigEye Titanium retains the same legible design, thus preserving the historical raison d’etre of its design. Another notable feature is the titanium case, which makes the new BigEye the brand...

Interview: Stefanie Ng, CEO Audemars Piguet Southeast Asia SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Southeast Asia Named chief Feb 15, 2021

Interview: Stefanie Ng, CEO Audemars Piguet Southeast Asia

Named chief executive officer of Audemars Piguet (AP) in Southeast Asia at the end of 2019, Stefanie Ng was in charge of the brand’s marketing efforts in the region before being tapped for the top job. A respected industry insider whose first job was in watchmaking, Ms Ng is now responsible for one of the fastest-growing regions at one of the best-performing luxury-watch brands. With many pandemic restrictions lifted, I sat down with Ms Ng for a chat earlier in the year, where she explained what has kept her at AP for almost all of her career, and also provided some hints as to the watchmaker’s upcoming launches. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You were appointed CEO of AP in the region in October 2019. Tell us a bit about your career before that. I started my career in the watch industry, at Swatch Group, first at Breguet, and then at Blancpain and CK Calvin Klein, where I did marketing. So the world of luxury watches was familiar when I joined AP as the regional marketing manager, [a role] you would call brand manager today. I handled all marketing activities across Southeast Asia, that’s eight to nine countries, for eight years. You have been at AP for most of your career. What has kept you there? The company and its people. Its values and direction have given me interesting perspectives on the watch industry, while helping expand my horizons, first as a marketer, and then as a leader. And of course, it’s also the brand – AP is where I feel at...

Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal Time+Tide
Patek Philippe sales Feb 15, 2021

Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal

Yessir, the cone of silence surrounding the manufacture of Patek Philippe has lifted twice in a week. The brand are surfing atop of a media wave of their own making. Only last week we reported first on the discontinuation of the already near-impossible to get Nautilus ref. 5711, and in our story here we shared … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe sales in 2020 down by 20% is not any kind of big deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours Time+Tide
Hublot completed Feb 15, 2021

Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours

Hublot has always been at the forefront of exploring new materials and colours. Known for their motto “the art of fusion”, Hublot constantly pushes the boundaries in regard to what we all expect a watch to look like – as well as what it is made from. There are few brands, if any, where we … ContinuedThe post Taste the rainbow: this is how Hublot completed the spectrum with their bold range of colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated Feb 13, 2021

The Rise And Fall Of Fine Watchmaking At Cartier: It’s Been Surprisingly Complicated – Reprise

While the Collection Privée Cartier Paris was the definitive illustration of a time of forgotten elegance, Cartier's Fine Watch Making Collection, despite its extremely high quality and finishing, became one of the best examples of a disaster in the trend of pretentious haute horlogerie of the last decade. So what's going on with Cartier's high watchmaking division now?

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review Feb 12, 2021

2021 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date Review

Pros: Graduated shades of intense blues on the dialA real joy to see the redesigned calibre 899 on the case back ISO 6425 complaint proper ‘diving’ watch  Cons: Some may not be fans of the screw-in internal Bezel 42mm case size will wear large on wrists smaller than 6.5 inchesSome may find it pricey  Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8.5/10  Reference : 9068180 Late last year in October 2020, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Polaris Mariner for their Polaris collection. The Polaris Mariner is a range of high-performing diving watches that pay homage to the brand’s diving legacy and almost 100 years of knowledge and expertise on chiming watches. Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced two watches to their sporty and elegant Polaris collection; the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. What we have on our hands today is the classic diving piece the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date.  Case: Reference : 9068180 The case on the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date is as close as it gets to the vintage 1968 Memovox Polaris. This 1968 model was the first true diving watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre, which included an internal rotating bezel, an alarm, and a triple-layer case-back for better sound transmission. With the latest Polaris Mariner Date model, the alarm and sound transmission mechanisms have been left out for the Memovox model, with the Mariner Date being the simple yet classic diving...